Compact Tractor Log skidder

[HammA5690]

I was searching for a way to skid logs with my JD 2520 without having to leave the seat (lazy I know) and came across the attachment from Smallwoodlottools.com. Although I really liked the design of the attachment the price struck me as quite high. I have decided to take a swing at building my own. Not knowing if reverse engineering is illegal in anyway I have opted against posting any pictures from the website but have already made a scale model to make sure that everything will work out as far as the size of the parts go. I already have all the steel needed but have a few questions for you guys on the forum.

- Are Brass bushings and grease fittings needed on this attachment?

- I plan to build the entire project out of 5/8 steel, but I do have 3/4 at my disposal. I would like everyones opinion on which they would suggest.

- And last but not least, is anything Im doing illegal in any way shape or form. being that I am not distrubuting the plans for it (because I have made my own) I doubt that there is any wrong doing but you never know.

Any thoughts or ideas for improvements would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully I can lazer cut the steel tomorrow and get the ball rolling.

Thanks.:thumbsup:

 

[beenthere]

Can't see what is shown in the pic. Looks like something just slightly larger than an ignition key. ??

But the tongs shown at the Smallwoodlottools.com site looks handy. I use the iMatch QH and a set of logging tongs to skid logs. Sometimes hook them up with a chain as they can roll and come loose on the way out of the woods.

 

[HammA5690]

All that is in the pic is a scale model of what I plan to build. 1/10 inch = 1 inch so it is quite small. I just needed to see that all the pivot points would function together before I dove into the big steel. Not really all that important in the scheem of things

 

[trailbuilder]

As far as Patent laws, you should be save as long as you don't go in the business of selling them.

 

[SixHoeBob]

Build your project full size using wood. Use 1/4" bolts to represent any pins. As the design progresses you can use a hole saw with a 1/4" pilot bit to enlarge the pin holes to the actual size where needed. Bushings are not needed, just use thick sleeves if necessary.

 

[Snaker]

You got some skills bud. You could be making some hobby stuff or toys.

I looked at the website you listed. Without seeing it operate, I question the design of those long inny/outy hooks. Don't know if it could grab a log smaller that maybe 12".

I see a pair of chains attached to the drawbar maybe. What would that do? They seem similar to rope attachments that I located on my hooks, but on mine I run the ropes vertically to the top and forward. I pull the ropes to expand the hooks to slide over a log and then to release the log when done.

 

[HammA5690]

I looked at the website you listed. Without seeing it operate, I question the design of those long inny/outy hooks. Don't know if it could grab a log smaller that maybe 12".

I see a pair of chains attached to the drawbar maybe. What would that do? They seem similar to rope attachments that I located on my hooks, but on mine I run the ropes vertically to the top and forward. I pull the ropes to expand the hooks to slide over a log and then to release the log when done.

The design on the tongs have changed quite a bit. They have began using straight square stock with sharpened round stock welded at an angle to the ends. This should allow the tongs to grab smaller logs while making them easy to build.

I believe the chains are to keep the pulling of the log on the tow bar rather than on the 3pt. When you grab the log and pull away the chains pull tight placing the strain on the tow bar and lower to the ground. It should also help with preventing doing any accidental wheelies.

 

[mwb]

All that is in the pic is a scale model of what I plan to build. 1/10 inch = 1 inch so it is quite small. I just needed to see that all the pivot points would function together before I dove into the big steel. Not really all that important in the scheem of things

You need a tractor with a Cat 0.1 hitch!:thumbsup:

 

[Gobblin Tom]

They are welding 2 hooks on both sides of my I-match for me right now and they are welding me a hook on the top of the 3 point receiver for the I-match when it comes in. All will be used for pulling logs with chains or carrying chains.... Might look into some tongs down the road but I would rather not get off the tractor until I each my destination (Tongs might fall off on my terrain)...

 

[pat32rf]

That is quite the gozmo from smallwoodlot. Most of my effort is expended in getting the logs TO the tractor. Once they are there I just hook them to a chain on the 3pth and carefully head back to where I've parked the trailer.
I really like that pull chain to the drawbar idea however..You are able to lift the lead end of the log, yet pull from a low point (once everything is adjusted)

 

[HammA5690]

That is quite the gozmo from smallwoodlot. Most of my effort is expended in getting the logs TO the tractor.

My land is flat for the most part so wherever the tree may fall I can buck the log and back right up to it. I could understand how this attachment would not work well for people with very rough terrain.

 

[EddieWalker]

My experience with tongs and trying to find ways to stay in the seat have all failed on me. It would be nice to see how this works when done, and if it really does save time over just wraping a chain around the tree and pulling it on the ground from the draw bar.

Keep us posted, if it works, then it would be VERY USEFUL!!!!

Eddie

 

[Gobblin Tom]

My experience with tongs and trying to find ways to stay in the seat have all failed on me. It would be nice to see how this works when done, and if it really does save time over just wraping a chain around the tree and pulling it on the ground from the draw bar.

Keep us posted, if it works, then it would be VERY USEFUL!!!!

Eddie

Did you watch the video on this piece of equipment? I don't think it would work well on my hills and valleys. Although the video is neat!

 

[Snaker]

The design on the tongs have changed quite a bit. They have began using straight square stock with sharpened round stock welded at an angle to the ends. This should allow the tongs to grab smaller logs while making them easy to build.

I believe the chains are to keep the pulling of the log on the tow bar rather than on the 3pt. When you grab the log and pull away the chains pull tight placing the strain on the tow bar and lower to the ground. It should also help with preventing doing any accidental wheelies.

I swear that the first time I looked at the picture on that website I saw a solid bar connecting the hook pivot to the drawbar and couldn't figure out what the chains were supposed to do. On second look I see that the bar is actually the left 3 point lift arm. daaah!

 

[powergod1]

seems like a cool idea i could see how it would appeal to some

 

[LRTX1]

I think the chains to the drawbar are for the release of the tongs. Once the log is moved and the 3pt lowered, the tractor drives off and those chains keep the "hooks" from engaging the log again. It pulls on the hook end not the pivot end so they don't tighten. You only see the occasional tight chain while moving/pulling the log.

 

[HammA5690]

I think the chains to the drawbar are for the release of the tongs. Once the log is moved and the 3pt lowered, the tractor drives off and those chains keep the "hooks" from engaging the log again. It pulls on the hook end not the pivot end so they don't tighten. You only see the occasional tight chain while moving/pulling the log.

Good point but I'm not conceding defeat. Its used for both HA

 

[beenthere]

LRTX1
I think you have made a good point there. But they didn't seem to feature that in the video (or I missed it). As I see it, the "tongs" being discussed are not very heavy duty, and may be alright for the small logs shown in the video. And it may be that they are only for a small CUT too (as the size shown). I think my 4300 Deere would tear them up pretty quick when a typical 20" diam, 12' oak log was hooked to it.

I had the log tongs already that I've used for 40+ years. With the iMatch and that top hook, I sold my previous "arch" that had a large top hook. (first pic) Then using the iMatch, and the third pic is one on the old 8N Ford. The slots would accept a log chain. Sometimes with a big log, had to have two riding the front hood of the 8N to keep it down. In low gear, there was plenty of time to counter it raising up too far (and wasn't fast as some want others to believe).

 

[LRTX1]

LRTX1
I think you have made a good point there. But they didn't seem to feature that in the video (or I missed it). As I see it, the "tongs" being discussed are not very heavy duty, and may be alright for the small logs shown in the video. And it may be that they are only for a small CUT too (as the size shown). I think my 4300 Deere would tear them up pretty quick when a typical 20" diam, 12' oak log was hooked to it.

I had the log tongs already that I've used for 40+ years. With the iMatch and that top hook, I sold my previous "arch" that had a large top hook. (first pic) Then using the iMatch, and the third pic is one on the old 8N Ford. The slots would accept a log chain. Sometimes with a big log, had to have two riding the front hood of the 8N to keep it down. In low gear, there was plenty of time to counter it raising up too far (and wasn't fast as some want others to believe).

Near the end of the video, they show how to release the log. It clearly shows how the draw bar chain pulls the hooks off the log. Throughout the video those chains are most often slacked while pulling the log.