Clamp vs Screw electrode holder

[Haywire]

What's the pros and cons as you fellas see them?

If I had to list a gripe about the PA200, it would be fiddling around with that screw head changing electrodes. I think when I lengthen the cables, I am going to get a clamp type electrode holder.

Ian

 

[gwdixon]

My PA200 came with the clamp type. And I lengthened the stinger cable like you plan to do. It will be expensive. You can replace the entire cable or use the original for a whip so it won't cost so much.

A Fortney clamp type was used to replace the OE Everlast clamp. Probably doesn't make much difference but I'm so cheap that I burn the rods right down to a nub and scorch the plastic insulation. It is nice to have a back-up.

 

[crazyal]

I like the screw style. I started off with a clamp but if the rod stuck while trying to strike an arc all too often the clamp would slip off requiring me to stop, break the rod free, then clamp it again and start over. I'm guessing if I used it more and was better at striking an arc it wouldn't matter as much.

 

[Haywire]

Yes, I plan on getting some 2ga butt splices and just adding onto the original cables. Replace the electrode holder with a clamp type and crimping a new terminal onto the cable to reuse the work clamp.

Al, I was using some 3/32 tonight and stuck a rod. The rod wouldn't let go (just bent back and forth like a noodle) and I couldn't just release the rod from the holder in a quick manner, It just got hotter and hotter. That was what made me decide to change it out.

Ian

 

[rankrank1]

....The rod wouldn't let go (just bent back and forth like a noodle) and I couldn't just release the rod from the holder in a quick manner, It just got hotter and hotter. That was what made me decide to change it out.....

Ian

I prefer a good clamp style stinger for this reason as you can quickly unclamp from a stuck rod to let the rod cool and break it free. You can usually save most of the rod this way too. I simply use side cutters to cut off any portions lacking flux or portions where the flux is severely burnt.

The clamp style stinger's ability to release the rod quickly is also better in my opinion if welding with a marginal supply power sources. (e.g. Using a dryer outlet that has a 30 amp breaker to feed a 50 amp welder. Actually works fine on lower welder settings that pull 30 amps or less as long as you do not stick a rod. With the clamp style stinger you can easily release the stuck rod before you trip the circuit breaker. Also, if I was going to ever try emergency welding with 3 car batteries hooked in series then I would only use a clamp style stinger for safety reasons in case I ever stuck a rod. I do not believe welding would hurt the car batteries in any way. However, I do believe sticking a rod would not be good on the batteries if you had no way of quickly releasing from the stuck rod. Prolonged stuck rod could create a stiuation where even more hydrogen gas is expelled from a battery causing a battery to explode - not good for the battery or me).

 

[travis potter]

I only use a clamo because you can damage the welder if the rod sticks and you can't un hook in a hurry. A old lincoln tombston it won't hurt but a inverter can burn the boards in a hurry, don't ask how I know..................

 

[mrmikey]

Own preference but I prefer the shortstub (screw type)....Mike

 

[RickB]

My Miller Thunderbolt came with a clamp type, but I miss the screw style that my ex-partner always insisted on when we were farming. I don't weld enough these days to let it bother me.

 

[Haywire]

I suppose if I had thought about it, pulling the ground clamp off would have worked just as well.

Ian

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

The tong type would be my choice as well and I have registered my opinion about it several times. The stub holders stink. But that is a 10.00 fix.

 

[Shield Arc]

The stub holders stink.

WTF!You must be talking about the ones Everlast supplies.

You do realize there is a BIG difference in quality between the Bernard Short Stub, and the Everlast imitations?

 

[Scooby074]

WTF!You must be talking about the ones Everlast supplies.

You do realize there is a BIG difference in quality between the Bernard Short Stub, and the Everlast imitations?

Yep. Bernard here too. No chinese clones alowed

 

[Haywire]

Something I noticed is that 3/32" electrodes can slip by the clamping portion as you screw the head down and it will be beside it rather than between it and the V. You have to pay attention and hold the electrode at the bottom of the V while you screw the head down.

Also attached is the resulting sculpture of me welding all my scrap bits together for practice. Maybe I can call it modern industrial art and sell it on ebay. LOL

Edit: I don't intend this to be an Everlast bash. The screw head is perfectly functional. It's just not idiot (Ian) proof.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

I use a "Twister", have for many years. The reason is clamp types will fill in when you're welding galvanized and or burning the rod into less than an inch long stubby. I do both. Over time you can't change to a smaller rod because the clamp won't grab it.

Go to your LWS (local welding supply) and ask for a Twister. It's rod holder that secures your rod with a quarter turn. You can bend your rod to whatever angle you want and put it to it.

I have a ten foot lightweight stinger cord. That makes it easier to hold the stinger and I can change the length of the stinger lead by just adding or subtracting sections.

 

[whateg0]

I suppose if I had thought about it, pulling the ground clamp off would have worked just as well.

Ian

That's doable if you are working in the same vicinity as the ground clamp. Sometimes, that means getting up and walking around to the other side of the trailer, or disk, or whatever.

Dave

 

[Inkomodius]

I use clamp type. That is all we are allowed to use one gas sites, because if you are working around a live line and somehow stick the rod to it (stupider things have happened in the oilfield) then you can just unclamp it from the rod before the rod can blow through and become an ignition source.

 

[Haywire]

I picked up this harbor freight electrode clamp yesterday for like $4 to try out. I like it. Much easier to operate than the other type. My only gripe is that the release lever is too close to the handle, so getting a two handed grip takes some fiddling. I'm going to order a Lenco HT series clamp. It's got a lever designed with more clearance between it and the handle.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

WTF!You must be talking about the ones Everlast supplies.

You do realize there is a BIG difference in quality between the Bernard Short Stub, and the Everlast imitations?

I've used them both, and they both still stink.:laughing:

 

[dcyrilc]

You guys are killing me here. I've got just enough money sitting in the bank to pay for an I-mig 200, but I really need to hang on to it for mortgage. I'm sitting here reading all these threads and drooling badly.:drool::drool:

I think I need to suggest to Muhammad that this thread should need a subscription just like the politics thread does.


...and make sure you keep up all the great posting and pix. I'll cave in sooner or later and be right here with ya!:laughing::laughing:

Mark, stick my name on one of those new I-migs. I know I won't be able to hold out much longer.

 

[Shield Arc]

I picked up this harbor freight electrode clamp yesterday for like $4 to try out. I like it. Much easier to operate than the other type. My only gripe is that the release lever is too close to the handle, so getting a two handed grip takes some fiddling. I'm going to order a Lenco HT series clamp. It's got a lever designed with more clearance between it and the handle.

When I started out about all we ever got on the job were the 400, 500-amp versions. I got so use to holding the stinger / electrode holder with the handle on the back of my hand, with the round part in the palm of my hand. Then going to a 200-amp stinger just didn't seem natural having to hold the entire stinger in the palm of my hand, because I couldn't get my hand under the handle. Those 500-amp stinger are nothing short of a club, I guess that's why I like the short stub, have the comfort of a 500-amp stinger, (which I'm use to) but not the weight.
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