i have a spot inbetween my property and the neighbours that just holds water for days/weeks after a rain or spring thaw.. i'd like to pipe it out to the ditch at the road, total length about 200 ft from far end of water prblm to ditch where i can let it dump, i was thinking of using that black drainage pipe with the holes just on the top side, laying that in a trench to the ditch and backfilling with stone..heres a pic of the mess after about 2 inches of rain in 2days..this is as bad as it will ever get and goes down considerably within hours of the rain quiting...the pic shows the water i want to drain...this is the backyard i want to drain it to a ditch in the front which is about 100 ft from the near side of the puddle, overall its about 200 ft to the far side of puddle to the ditch..any suggestions, no tractors or mobile equipment its going to be 200ft trench done with a banjo!
draining ditch..
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Egon
Epic Contributor
Have you checked elevations for the drainage?
BruceWard
Platinum Member
A ditch without somewhere to run is just a small pond.
Could you extend the ditch along the path where you want to use the pipe?
What purpose does the ditch serve? Might it be better to fill that are so the water would run off naturally? It looks like several other places could use some additional topsoil.
Could you extend the ditch along the path where you want to use the pipe?
What purpose does the ditch serve? Might it be better to fill that are so the water would run off naturally? It looks like several other places could use some additional topsoil.
no the front ditch is at the road(suburbia) once its there it will flow away and be outa my property, my idea was to run the pipe right down the low spot where the water is sitting, then backfill it with gravel, then level it all out with topsoil
CurlyDave
Elite Member
The way the pipe with holes is designed to be used, the holes go down. The pipe collects water, but really doesn't lead it anywhere.
Use the holey pipe in the area of the puddle, then use solid pipe to transfer the water to the disposal ditch.
Latest geotech thinking is that the white, solid PVC pipe, type SRD 35 is the best for this kind of application. It comes in both solid and holey versions.
Use the holey pipe in the area of the puddle, then use solid pipe to transfer the water to the disposal ditch.
Latest geotech thinking is that the white, solid PVC pipe, type SRD 35 is the best for this kind of application. It comes in both solid and holey versions.
BruceWard
Platinum Member
Sounds like a reasonable plan.
The first thing I would do is open up the trench where the pipe would and see how the low spot drains. Even using a maddock I bet that ground is soft now.
The first thing I would do is open up the trench where the pipe would and see how the low spot drains. Even using a maddock I bet that ground is soft now.
i'd heard that about the holes going down, just didnt make sense to me..i was planning on putting the holes up, thinking the water would rise to the level of the holes enter the pipe and run down the slight grade towards the road ditch am i wrong?
whats a maddock? and no hte ground isnt soft its clay water just makes it stick to your shovel or break your shovel what ever comes first
CurlyDave
Elite Member
You are not correct. The holes go at the 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock positions.
As I said, use the holey pipe to collect water and the solid pipe to lead it away...
* * * * *
A mattock is a digging tool similar to a pickaxe http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mattock
santa2u
Bronze Member
If that were my place, I would haul in some fill dirt and be done with it. Just sayin'.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Has a rental trencher been considered ?
Might eliminate a few blisters and a sore back.
Might eliminate a few blisters and a sore back.
boggen
Elite Member
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google "french drain"
there be tons of DIY step by step guides. in installing holed or slot pipe. to remove water from areas.
you might want to install a sock over pipe. (geotextile fabric that goes over or around the pipe). along with possibly another layer of geotextile fabric over the rock. before you put top soil down, if you even do that.
neighbor at another house. installed 1x4 treated lumber on both sides of the trench. and just tossed rocks all the way up to ground level. ((looks ugly in my thoughts, but *shrugs* to each there own))
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but i am with others, that has to be one soggy messy muddy yard to deal with. and in that bring in some top soil. and regrade / re slope the entire yard first. and if need be install french drain at that later time.
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call up local "machine rental" places open up the actual paper phone book vs internet yellow pages. there should be a few places nearby. to rent a small trencher, or small excavator or small utility tractor with backhoe.
when calling call around even if it is an hour drive away. rental prices can change a lot! and double check on daily vs weekly rental. longer you rent, more likely you get a bigger discount.
also call around to local sand/rock/dirt quarries, (look up , sand or dirt, or rock in phone book) and see about price of delivery. give them length, depth and width. and they can figure it out for ya of how much you need and cost of delivery.
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also call. *forgets number" is it 811? or juelie? the folks that come out and check for electrical, gas, telephone and like lines in the ground. and flag / paint lines for you. before you do any work.
there be tons of DIY step by step guides. in installing holed or slot pipe. to remove water from areas.
you might want to install a sock over pipe. (geotextile fabric that goes over or around the pipe). along with possibly another layer of geotextile fabric over the rock. before you put top soil down, if you even do that.
neighbor at another house. installed 1x4 treated lumber on both sides of the trench. and just tossed rocks all the way up to ground level. ((looks ugly in my thoughts, but *shrugs* to each there own))
======
but i am with others, that has to be one soggy messy muddy yard to deal with. and in that bring in some top soil. and regrade / re slope the entire yard first. and if need be install french drain at that later time.
======
call up local "machine rental" places open up the actual paper phone book vs internet yellow pages. there should be a few places nearby. to rent a small trencher, or small excavator or small utility tractor with backhoe.
when calling call around even if it is an hour drive away. rental prices can change a lot! and double check on daily vs weekly rental. longer you rent, more likely you get a bigger discount.
also call around to local sand/rock/dirt quarries, (look up , sand or dirt, or rock in phone book) and see about price of delivery. give them length, depth and width. and they can figure it out for ya of how much you need and cost of delivery.
=======
also call. *forgets number" is it 811? or juelie? the folks that come out and check for electrical, gas, telephone and like lines in the ground. and flag / paint lines for you. before you do any work.
I can't see the whole area from your picture, but the area looks pretty flat and a good candidate for a mini water way. I have made longer than 200 ft. water ways with nothing more than a tiller and garden rake. Transit would be nice to shoot grade, but the next rain will tell where the hi spots are.
JB4310
Super Member
I would only use it that way for a leach field set up, where the pipe is used to drain water out, not to collect water.
If I were using it to collect water in a stone trap filled trench, I would put the holes up.
With the holes down, the pipe is useless once it reaches 25% sediment, with the holes up, the pipe could be 75% full of silt/sediment/blockage and still function.
I wouldn't use PVC period, I would use ADS slotted pipe, that pipe could be 95% full and still drain water. At one time ADS pipe was thought of as a compromise, cause it was so easy to use, (must not be as good) doesn't look as good as PVC etc. The only advantage to PVC is the smooth walls.
We never use perforated PVC in the waterproofing/drainage business, we do use the solid PVC sometimes.
As far as the sock type filter over the pipe, I do not recommend it in any circumstance. Anything that will fill and block the pipe will clog the sock even faster. It's easier to flush and clean the pipe, you have to rip everything out if the sock has failed.
I had a pretty heated argument with the town's building inspector, when he ordered me to install a filter sock over my own footing drain at my house. I told him I wouldn't do it and why. He finally gave in.
I do recommend filter fabric as conditions call for, sometimes line the trench with it, or cover the stone filled trench with it.
For OP's situation, if there is one low point in that flooded spot, one surface drain with solid pipe to the drainage ditch would be all that needed. Would be much less work, no need for perf pipe and crushed stone.
From the pic, looks like a surface drain would take care of most of that pond.
Good luck, JB.
JB4310
Super Member
Since you say, no tractors or equipment. Just start going at it while it's flooded, start cutting a path with hand tools like jbooth mentioned, the water will show you how deep you have to go, no need for a level or transit.
The pick mattock that was brought up works excellent for that job, basically your gonna hack a channel in the ground to the lower drain ditch.
It's a messy job, but doing it while it's flooded, your using nature's best level (water) and you are sure not to over dig or under dig.
Afterwards, if it's not to deep, you could, taper the sides so you don't break a leg, and leave it as a surface swale.
I did a long one in my own back lot, thru 2 neighbors lots. Almost 500 feet with only about 10 inches to work with. No pipe just a surface swale.
I did use a tripod level (transit) and got it as close as I could with my box blade, but with such a slight percentage of pitch, I had to wait for a few good rains to fine tune it.
Now no more flooding, just a 5 foot wide channel of water.
JB.
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boggen
Elite Member
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forget them transits, laser levels, stake/strings/string levels.
DIY: Water Level Gauge
cheap, easy to create and use. and extremely accurate.
DIY: Water Level Gauge
cheap, easy to create and use. and extremely accurate.
years ago i bought a water level with a unit on one end that had a beeper when the tube reached the level of the beeper it beeped... think it was from lowes or **** depot they were quite common for awhile, it worked decent enough...eventually i got tired of playing games and just went out and bought a transit (builders level) they arent as much as most people think, much easier and more accurate, and ur not limited by a dam rubber hose!
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Actually, a water level is much more accurate than a transit or a rotary laser level.
I have a rotary laser because it is much faster and more convenient in many situations, but a water level is more accurate and never needs calibration.
The few projects where I have considered hiring a contractor I will ask them about water levels and if they claim that their expensive laser is more accurate, they do not get the job. They just do not have the engineering skills I want.
