Starting issues YM2000

[Car Doc]

Decompression levers work on exhaust valves so any back pressure in the intake would be intake valves open on a compression stroke for whatever reason carbon/dirt/mouse nest whatever. good luck :thumbsup:

 

[clemsonfor]

im about an hour from you.

 

[careyo63]

Just a little over an Hour for me I'm not far off 20. Know Augusta all to well. Nice City and Folks. I spent a couple of months in ICU. at MCG.

Carey

 

[clemsonfor]

Cary are you around green county or somewhere near there, im not to good on my GA counties as for one i have never lived there and 2 there are like 2-3 for every one here in SC? I was thinking you were more from tocca or somewhere with NE georgia as a location.

 

[careyo63]

I kind of wish clemsonfor. Toccoa is a nice area. Yrs. ago I use to live not far from there in Dillard Ga. Use to have to just about drive through Toccoa to get there from Atl. Still have alot of friends up there. I have a Monroe mailing addreess which is about 20 miles from Conyers and 20.

Carey

 

[YM200inGA]

Ok so no luck. One of the guys that was out helping me pointed out that it seems like there is alot of black carbon type build-up un the intake (looking into the valve cover where the filter sits) Is this common for this tractor? He is pretty sure that it is a sign that the top end needs to be rebuilt and possibly that there is damage to the pistons/sleeves.

Any ideas on what to check? Is the next step really tearing down the head? If it is does anyone know of a video/tutorial or am I in over my head.

Does anyone know of a good place to take it in the Augusta/reasonable vicinity?

Thanks

 

[284 International]

I don't think you're in over your head, these things are very simple if you have a basic set of tools. Have you tried all of the things suggested yet, or at least some? Did the hair drier trick work? Have you tried jump starting it with a running car on the battery, for a little more spinning rpm?

Here's my logic: right now, it doesn't run. If you pull the head off, it won't run either, and by pulling the head all you will be able to tell is if there is really bad damage to the piston and/or cylinder walls. If there IS bad damage...it still won't run, and you'll have to tear it down further to fix it anyway.

If there isn't any easily visible damage, you're in a conundrum because you still don't know why it won't run, and putting it all back together puts you back at square one. I would say exhaust all your options that are currently available, and then start doing surgery.

Get a work light or halogen lamp and place it near or on the intake. Turn it on and leave it for an hour or so. Get everything nice and warm. If you are able, use a hair drier and just set it up to blow hot air toward and into the manifold. Connect your jumper cables to your car, get the car running, open activate the compression release, spin it for several seconds, then deactivate the compression release. Make sure the throttle is around the middle of its travel. It should fire up.

If you have decided that there is a condition that requires the engine to be rebuilt (Which I'm not convinced of yet, since it smokes a bit when you crank it), say you've tried the earlier sequence dozens of times and all hope is lost, then there's nothing to lose by doing this: With the air filter on normally, get the engine cranking with the decompression activated. With a can of starter fluid, give the quickest possible burst you can toward the air intake. Not INTO, but toward it. The vapors should be enough to combust, and you'll hear the engine try to fire and sound like it's coming apart. If you can't get it to even try on starter fluid, then the compression isn't as good as it seemed to be.

I really think you'll be able to get it running, even if you rebuild it yourself. These are very simple to take apart and put together, and there is a wealth of knowledge among the members here. You can do it!

 

[California]

Soot in the intake is also created by the Thermostart so I'm not convinced that soot means anything.

Also - if the Thermostart is in working condition, making a flame in the intake like shown in that link, then it seems to me that spraying ether into it would make a nice boom.

 

[California]

Norm we must have both come in for lunch at the same time!

 

[normde2001]

Norm we must have both come in for lunch at the same time!

I just saw your mention of TS and deleted mine, and re-thinking it.

 

[normde2001]

I would work on getting a compression reading, looking for about 500psi, also you might check valve clearances, looking for .006" clearance. Are you SURE fuel is good and lines properly bled? DON"T pull the head without a really good reason. It's awfully hard to troubleshoot with the head off.

 

[284 International]

California (and Norm) both had excellent points that I hadn't considered. If your Thermostart is ablaze, spraying ether around it is not a good idea. I was shortsighted, and that can be dangerous: This is a good example of why free internet advice is something to always be applied with a dose of your own situation, reality, and common sense. I figured he was still using a jumper wire to feed the solenoid on his starter, not the Thermostart. I'm sorry.

YM200inGA, can you give us a list of exactly what all you have tried?

 

[YM200inGA]

Ok, from what I've read it seems like mine was built without a thermo-start. It just has a delete plug where it should be.

I tried searching the forums but wasn't able to find anything. Has anyone successfully gotten a generic HarborFriegth Diesel compression tester to work with this motor? If so what adapters did you use I can seem to find any fitting that fits.

My friend also pointed out that it seems like there should be some sort of washer where the injector meets up with the block but neither of mine have it. Should there be one there? If so how big of a deal is it that they are missing?

Thanks

Also would it be ok to use a heat gun instead of a hair dryer or would it be too hot? I can't get my wife to give hers up.

 

[normde2001]

Sounds like you need item 34 .
OOPS, messed that one up.

Unfortunately some diesel comp testers come with the correct adapter for your tractor and some don't. Hoye has this one , or you may have to modify one.

 

[winston1]

Here is a picture of your injectors and gaskets. Still think pulling it might get you going. I have read of several members having success. If you do pull your compression release until engine begins to turn over, then release it. No, a heat gun will not be to hot. I doubt you would need to leave it on an hour.

 

[284 International]

Winston, thanks for clarifying for me. I was trying to say that with a shop light an hour would give it time to warm up the block and metal parts of the engine. It's not necessary to do that with a heat gun. That's just to warm the air going into the motor. Just turn it on when you're going to crank it.

On my YM240, the copper ring stayed on the engine side. If it's dirty, you may not even be able to tell if they're in there or not.

If you discover if the Harbor Freight compression tester works, make sure to post back here and let us know. I've looked for the same information too, unsuccessfully.

 

[California]

would it be ok to use a heat gun instead of a hair dryer

Worked for me today. I hadn't started the YM240 since early December.

I put the trickle charger on it overnight. Waited until mid-day, 55 degrees. Put the heat gun, on low, aimed at the head below the injectors for 20 minutes. The head was barely warm to the touch, maybe 95 degrees.

Started right up like it had been run an hour before.


Copper washer? Mine were teflon. #34 in Hoye's diagram, like Norm said.

 

[YM200inGA]

Is there a guide anywhere for checking the valve clearances? The service manual isn't terribly clear on the overall procedure.

Thanks

 

[normde2001]

Is there a guide anywhere for checking the valve clearances? The service manual isn't terribly clear on the overall procedure.

Thanks

What do you need to know, other than .006" clearance?

 

[YM200inGA]

Where is the thickness gauge placed?