How much should ballast box weigh?

[mdelmarcelle]

I have a kubota m7040 with a FEL. I'm looking to build a conrete 3pt ballast weight. The front end loader will lift close to 3000lbs. The hitch can lift 3300lbs 24 inches back. My tractor has cast iron wheels, adding about 700lbs to the back end. I'll be using the loader to move sand and wet ground. Considering all this, how much should the ballast weigh. I was thinking in the 1500 to 2000 lb range. Is that too heavy, not heavy enough?

 

[RoyJackson]

If you still have the manuals that came with your tractor/loader, there will be a section in the loader manual indicating how much ballast should be on the 3PH for a given load on the FEL.

If I was mdelmarcelle, I'd go with 1200-1500 permanent weight (concrete or somethng like that) and add more weight (sand, cast iron weights, etc.) as required.

BTW, I use sand in my ballast box (totals about 600 lbs, estimated). That's what came with the (used) ballast box and works great for my usage (traction for some fairly light loader work and snow plowing).

 

[srs]

I too find this confusing sometimes. Especially trying to determine how much a block of concrete weighs. What makes it tough to figure out is lets say you have tires that are filled with liquid, x amount of weight, then say you want to add wheel weights, that too adds so much weight, and finally if you add a weight box the question is (as mdelmarcelle) what is enough or not enough. You have to wonder if all of this weight combined is putting too much stress on the rear axle, 3 pt. hitch, etc.

 

[Ford tractor]

I have a kubota m7040 with a FEL. I'm looking to build a conrete 3pt ballast weight. The front end loader will lift close to 3000lbs. The hitch can lift 3300lbs 24 inches back. My tractor has cast iron wheels, adding about 700lbs to the back end. I'll be using the loader to move sand and wet ground. Considering all this, how much should the ballast weigh. I was thinking in the 1500 to 2000 lb range. Is that too heavy, not heavy enough?

Ideally you would want a combination of wheel weights, tire fill and 3pt weight to be 1.5x the loader capacity. Less on a 4wd tractor, but you want at least that much on a 2wd machine. I would make one in the 2500-3000# range and try to make it as low and close to the tractor as practical.

 

[Glen Watkins]

"I would make one in the 2500-3000# range and try to make it as low and close to the tractor as practical."

That would be an awful big ballast box don't you think?

 

[tcartwri]

You have to factor in the length of the moment arm as well. 1000lbs 30" behind the axle is more effective than 1500lbs between the wheels.

 

[jonyyuma]

I agree with you that is a large slab of concrete? { 3000#}I would need a trailer..Jy.

 

[wvpolekat]

It should weigh as much as its contents + the weight of the box itself.

 

[Soundguy]

i'd fill the tires and add weight to the 3pt. either as a tub (less usefull) or as an implement.. say a box or angle blade with suitcase weights or 5g weight buckets on it.

I used 600# on the back of my old fords in order to lift 1200#.. plus I have wet tires..

soundguy

 

[mdelmarcelle]

Thanks for the input. I'm beginning to frame it up, making a concrete block. It'll be about 36 inches wide by 23 inches deep, and 32 inches tall. More a less a concrete block with a drawbar going through the front side of it for lifting and a connection point for the top link. If my calculations are correct it will be around 2000lbs. For concrete, I'm going to use quickrete, probably the fiber reinforced stuff. I may through an extra bag of portland cement into the mix to increase the strength. And I'll use rebar and wire to decrease cracking. I'm no concrete expert, but I think this will work. My fear is that the block will break while using it and damage the tractor in some way. So, I'm trying to think of everything I can do to prevent that from happening.

I'd use an implement, but I don't have anything that nearly that heavy. It'd be nice to have a super heavy box blade to hook up while using the loader because most of the work I'll be doing would also benefit from a box blade. But super heavy box blades like that are pretty expensive.

 

[Degolyerent]

With concrete curing time is a must, it gets two thirds of it's strength in 7 days and full strength in 28 days
If you need it in a "hurry" you may go with a high early mix
You could probably use it within 7-10 days after pouring, and use as least water as needed and vibrate thoroughly to consolidate mix but do not segregate the aggregate
Rebar and/or wire would be good to use for sure, the weight should be around 2300 lbs not counting the rebar or other metal used

 

[brandoro]

My ballast box is filled with concrete and scrap steel, I figure between 800 and 900 lbs but have not weighed it. My FEL is rated to lift 880 lbs so seems about right to me and I'm pleased with the traction and stability. Also like the very compact dimensions of the ballast box when using it in close quarters.
My tires are filled with only air, there are times I don't want the tractor to be very heavy. In the spring or if there has been a lot of rain I drop the FEL too so I don't groove up the lawn while mowing.
My opinion, worth every cent.

 

[Soundguy]

add a reciever tube to that chunk so you can put a standard tounge on the back. a couple pvc storage tubes with caps onthe bottom pushed into the crete' will help you tote things like shovels and such as well.

soundguy

 

[Ford tractor]

That would be an awful big ballast box don't you think?

Note the OP has a loader that can pick up 3000 pounds. You need a large amount of ballast to both balance the machine and provide traction.

 

[ole farmerbuck]

I think you're trying to get too much weight back there, or should I say, more than you need. I have a M7040 and yes the tires are filled and have a rear blade on it most of the time.. How much does the cast wheels weigh? I have moves all of the dirt from a 35x75x10 feet hole with mine and never even a thought about not having enough weight back there.. I would think 1200lbs back there should do it.

 

[Ford tractor]

I think you're trying to get too much weight back there, or should I say, more than you need. I have a M7040 and yes the tires are filled and have a rear blade on it most of the time.. How much does the cast wheels weigh? I have moves all of the dirt from a 35x75x10 feet hole with mine and never even a thought about not having enough weight back there.. I would think 1200lbs back there should do it.

Cast wheel centers for the 7040 are about 650 per side. Fluid fill is about 800 per tire. That makes 1300+ 1600 = 2900 pounds with nothing on the back. The OP has cast centers, but didn't list fluid fill so he has to put that weight on the back too.

 

[ole farmerbuck]

Cast wheel centers for the 7040 are about 650 per side. Fluid fill is about 800 per tire. That makes 1300+ 1600 = 2900 pounds with nothing on the back. The OP has cast centers, but didn't list fluid fill so he has to put that weight on the back too.

Hmm, i only paid for 1134lbs for both tires and they are imo too full.

 

[ole farmerbuck]

Ok, I took my rear blade off Saturday and moved 8 or 10 full scoops of dirt. To be honest, I couldnt tell the blade wasnt on there. Had no problem with wheel spin getting the scoop full (didnt lock in front). I hit the brakes with scoop full and the rear end didnt try to come up. Just telling ya.

 

[Turbys_1700]

A rule of thumb that I have always used is 1.0 times the weight that your loader can pick up. I heard someone on here state 1.5 times the weight. I think that anywhere in that range you will be fine. I keep a 550# box blade on the back of my 1720. The tires are loaded and weigh in around 500#. A good match with my Stoll loader that lifts around 1,000#.