3-Point Hitch Top Link ?

[jgheck]

I want to put a Hydraulic Top Link on a L3700SU and want to know the size of the cylinder to purchase.
I do not have the tractor here and need to know what the length of the top link is when fully closed and fully extended. Than I can order a Top Link cylinder to put in there. The L3700 is suppose to be the same frame as the L3400 and I believe the same as the L3800. I could not find that information in the specs on the tractors. I also could not find it on any of the past posts. I appreciate if someone could give me that information.
Thank you, this site has been very helpful to me.

 

[LD1]

I do not believe the toplink dimensions are specific to kubota, rather they are generic and specific to category 1, not the tractor.

And are you planning on buying a cylinder and trying to make your own??? Because they make just what you need with the "ball ends" already on the cylinder.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-5152&catname=hydraulic

 

[jgheck]

I found a couple of places that sell them all made up. I also can buy a cylinder quite a bit cheaper and weld my own links on, but would rather buy it already done. I just need to know which size. I can buy a cylinder that is 20" closed and 28" extended. I think this would be about the correct size, but want to check before ordering. The Kubota dealer says they do not offer that option on the L 3400 or L3700. He said you need to get an after market one, but he didn't know what size. It is Cat 1.

 

[DDT]

Be be sure measure your top link min and max center to center. Then find a hyd top link that is the closest to your exsiting one.

 

[jgheck]

I would do that but the tractor is being ordered and I want to get this ordered so I can put it on when I get it. That is why I am asking anyone that has a L3400, L3700, or L3800 if they knew because they may have done this themselves. If not then maybe they could measure that top link for me. After reading many many posts about putting on a HTL I though someone would know the size needed. I just couldn't find that information out. I am surprised that the companies that sell these don't have a list of what model tractors there top links would fit. Sort of like in the automotive field, they can look up the model of car and find the part that you need.

 

[LD1]

Just use the measurments of the cylinder in the link I gave you.

3" bore
8" stroke
19-1/2" retracted length

Be sure you account for the length of the eyes.

And I would be cautious about welding the eyes on to the cylinder.

The base would be no big deal if you disassemble the cylinder to avoid damaging the seals.

BUT the rod end I would reccomend trying to track down a threaded cylinder and a "eye" that is threaded as well. If you dont, you will have to grind the chrome off to weld on it, and then the heat of welding will probabally damage the chrome far enough down the rod to the area where the seal rides. If you dont have it re-chromed you'll chew through seals in a hurry.

And I just thought I'd also ask, but are you getting rear remotes with your new tractor. If not, it wont work, and if you are, it is an expensive option.

Have you considered the Air-over-hydraulic self contained units.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7960&catname=hydraulic

 

[Chilly807]

My top link length is 27 inches center-to-center of pins for most of my implements, within an inch or so. If you had a range from 24 to 32 inches you'd be well covered.

Sean

 

[crazyal]

I do not believe the toplink dimensions are specific to kubota, rather they are generic and specific to category 1, not the tractor.

And are you planning on buying a cylinder and trying to make your own??? Because they make just what you need with the "ball ends" already on the cylinder.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-5152&catname=hydraulic

I notice they only come with a 1" diameter hole. Do they make 1" to 3/4" spacers or cylinders with 3/4" ball ends?

 

[mcnitt]

I have a TNT set up on my Grand L 3430. It was installed by the dealer when I bought the tractor. I am not where the tractor is as I write this, but I know the cylinder bore is 1.5" and it extends 8". I don't think the body of the cylinder is anymore than 12-14". The end that connects the cylinder to the tractor is right at the end of the cylinder body making the total extended length around 22-24" from pin to pin. It is completly adequate when I use the BB or landscape rake. I recently made a carryall using the TSC frame. The TNT provides plenty of tilt to keep things from rolling off during transport, but not enough tilt if I wanted to roll things off intentionally, like firewood rounds. There are three places to pin the cylinder to the tractor, which would alter the range of extension. I will experiment with them the next time I am on my rural property where the tractor is located. If changing the pin location does not help, I plan to fabricate a deeper bracket to weld on the carryall frame.

 

[mcnitt]

After looking at the Surplus Center cylinder referred to in LD1's second post, I should mention that my set up works off the tractor's hydraulics and operates through two rear remote valves. The cylinder in the first post is a whole different animal.

 

[PADan]

I notice they only come with a 1" diameter hole. Do they make 1" to 3/4" spacers or cylinders with 3/4" ball ends?

Yes, Category 1 top links use a 3/4" pin diameter.

Hydraulic Top-Link - Category 1

HYDRAULIC TOP LINK CATEGORY 1 - Agri Supply

 

[jgheck]

LDI, That is the dimension I was looking for. The retractable length is 19.5 and a 8 " stroke. Thank you. I understand what your saying about welding and ruining the seals. I will try and get one all made up. Now that I know what the dimensions are. I do want to get a heavy enough bore. I have read where some people have broken the ram.

 

[jgheck]

Your correct the second post by LD1 is a completely different cylinder. To my understanding that is for someone that does not have a remote Hydraulic valve hooked up. I ordered my tractor with one remote valve so I could easily hook up the HTL. I would have ordered the HTL from the dealer but they don't offer that option for the standard L series tractors. I believe it is an option for the Grand L's though. I will have the remote valve on the tractor when it is delivered, so I should just have to get a double acting cylinder. I really needed to know what the length of the factory top link is fully retracted and the length fully opened. That would determine the stroke I would need and then also it would determine what cylinder to get when it was retracted. There are a lot of different cylinders that have various retractable lengths with the same stroke. I actually have spent many hours researching this and could not get a consensus on length or stroke. I am getting closer now. I don't know if it would make much difference if the detracted length is off by a couple inches or not or if the stroke was a little more on the hydraulic top link compared to the factory top link. Maybe someone knows about that.

Just use the measurments of the cylinder in the link I gave you.

3" bore
8" stroke
19-1/2" retracted length

Be sure you account for the length of the eyes.

And I would be cautious about welding the eyes on to the cylinder.

The base would be no big deal if you disassemble the cylinder to avoid damaging the seals.

BUT the rod end I would reccomend trying to track down a threaded cylinder and a "eye" that is threaded as well. If you dont, you will have to grind the chrome off to weld on it, and then the heat of welding will probabally damage the chrome far enough down the rod to the area where the seal rides. If you dont have it re-chromed you'll chew through seals in a hurry.

And I just thought I'd also ask, but are you getting rear remotes with your new tractor. If not, it wont work, and if you are, it is an expensive option.

Have you considered the Air-over-hydraulic self contained units.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7960&catname=hydraulic

 

[jgheck]

CrazyAl, they do come with 3/4" ends on some of the valves. Some come with 1" and some come with a 3/4" on one end and a 1" on the other. Yes you can get a bushing that fits in the 1" end to make it 3/4".

 

[HayDR]

I want to put a Hydraulic Top Link on a L3700SU and want to know the size of the cylinder to purchase.
I do not have the tractor here and need to know what the length of the top link is when fully closed and fully extended. Than I can order a Top Link cylinder to put in there. The L3700 is suppose to be the same frame as the L3400 and I believe the same as the L3800. I could not find that information in the specs on the tractors. I also could not find it on any of the past posts. I appreciate if someone could give me that information.
Thank you, this site has been very helpful to me.

We have 2- CAT 1 Hydraulic toplinks that are sold for that tractor. 18-26.5"- $185 or 21-32"- $195. Both have the double piloted check valves. This is a welded unit with forged ends with hardened and chromed rods.

 

[jgheck]

We have 2- CAT 1 Hydraulic toplinks that are sold for that tractor. 18-26.5"- $185 or 21-32"- $195. Both have the double piloted check valves. This is a welded unit with forged ends with hardened and chromed rods.

What determining factors do I use to decide on which of the two to purchase. I would think that the factory top link would be the determining factor. When you order that tractor there is no option for two different size top links. No one seems to know what the length of that top link is when it is f closed and fwhen it is completely extended. I probably will have to wait until the tractor is delivered which may be in a month from now and just measure it. I have searched and searched and have made numerous phone calls and can not get an answer on the factory top link. I am told that the L3700 is the same tractor as the L3400 with a larger engine. I have never owned a compact tractor before but from all of my reading on here I am convinced to put the HTL on. I have also ordered a box blade and the HTL is suppose to make it much easier to use.

 

[LD1]

Well, I dont actually have the kubota toplink anymore so I CANT give you a measurment.

The kubota TL is a little weak compared to what you can buy @ tsc. Just a generic one from their has worked just fine on my tractor and all my implements

 

[jgheck]

Well, I dont actually have the kubota toplink anymore so I CANT give you a measurment.

The kubota TL is a little weak compared to what you can buy @ tsc. Just a generic one from their has worked just fine on my tractor and all my implements

LD1 thank you, I will check out TLC and see what they have. I have checked out other suppliers and their cylinder rods are very small. I am worried that they won't hold up. Did the one you had have the check valves in it? Some say you don't need them and others say get them with the check valves,

 

[westbrooklawn]

If you plan on adding something like a "Pat's easy change" system to your lower lift arms you would want to consider the longer toplink that goes to 32". Pat's adds about four inches to the length of your lower arms, and you need the additional length on your toplink to give you the full range of adjustment you need.

 

[jgheck]

If you plan on adding something like a "Pat's easy change" system to your lower lift arms you would want to consider the longer toplink that goes to 32". Pat's adds about four inches to the length of your lower arms, and you need the additional length on your toplink to give you the full range of adjustment you need.

I have heard of that Pats connect system but don't know how it works or why people use it. Maybe that is something else I need to check into. Good advice though. Correction in my last Post it was not TLC but TSC (tractor supply Co. I believe)