Turbo Oil Return (2320)

[PCABE5]

Guys,

I got my turbo and I am in the process of getting the adapters made and assembling oil lines. I'll take some pictures as I get started and post them.

My question is does anyone see a problem with returning the turbo oil return line to the valve cover. The turbo will sit high enough for the line to be sloped down. This seems the most direct and easiest way to do the return line. Let me hear your thoughts on this.

 

[scrappy isb67]

Guys,

I got my turbo and I am in the process of getting the adapters made and assembling oil lines. I'll take some pictures as I get started and post them.

My question is does anyone see a problem with returning the turbo oil return line to the valve cover. The turbo will sit high enough for the line to be sloped down. This seems the most direct and easiest way to do the return line. Let me hear your thoughts on this.

Are you turbo'ing your 2320? if so I am interested in seeng the pics! Are you going to turn up the fuel?
What turbo are you using? How much boost are you going to run?

As to the return line going back to the VC, it should not be a problem as long as the engine has the return capacity(internally) from the head to the oilpan. You are going to be adding alot of oil to the valvecover area and you want to make sure it can get back to the oilpan quickly or you could end up with the VC full of oil and nothing in the pan.

 

[PCABE5]

Scrappy??? As in AK TDR Scrappy? If so small world.

Yes, I am going to put a turbo on my 2320. I was going to make the manifold adaptors today but I had to put the exhaust back on due to 12" of snow. Winter doesn't want to let go so I might be awhile in completing the project.

I bought a small GT12 turbo. Looks to be a knock off and not an actual garrett turbo. My mistake as someone local was selling a "GT12" pretty cheap and I didn't do due diligence before I bought it. If this one does have issues or fails I will get the real garrett as it will be a direct bolt on. I figure the turbo on this will not work very hard at all even under load so I should be ok.

I will limit boost to no more than 5 psi. I will play the fueling by ear, these already run alittle rich and I should see a small boost just from the turbo. I will know that question when summer hits and I get to work it. If I want or need more I will turn the pump a turn or get new injectors that flow more. These injectors are fairly cheap, plus you only need 3 verses 6 on the CTD.

I figured since there is an oil fill port in the cover it can drain oil quickly enough for the turbo. This turbo does have a restrictor in the oil inlet so volume should be less than one without. I figured as long as I kept the turbo higher than where the return goes in I would be ok. There is not much room in the front gear cover for a fitting unless I can put one in where the injector gear is as that seems the easiest access. The last option would be to drop the pan and put a fitting up high on the pan above the oil line. Since the engine uses a spacer between the block and the pan, the crank should not be an issue but I would have to verify that before I drill there.

 

[scrappy isb67]

Scrappy??? As in AK TDR Scrappy? If so small world.

Yes, I am going to put a turbo on my 2320. I was going to make the manifold adaptors today but I had to put the exhaust back on due to 12" of snow. Winter doesn't want to let go so I might be awhile in completing the project.

I bought a small GT12 turbo. Looks to be a knock off and not an actual garrett turbo. My mistake as someone local was selling a "GT12" pretty cheap and I didn't do due diligence before I bought it. If this one does have issues or fails I will get the real garrett as it will be a direct bolt on. I figure the turbo on this will not work very hard at all even under load so I should be ok.

I will limit boost to no more than 5 psi. I will play the fueling by ear, these already run alittle rich and I should see a small boost just from the turbo. I will know that question when summer hits and I get to work it. If I want or need more I will turn the pump a turn or get new injectors that flow more. These injectors are fairly cheap, plus you only need 3 verses 6 on the CTD.

I figured since there is an oil fill port in the cover it can drain oil quickly enough for the turbo. This turbo does have a restrictor in the oil inlet so volume should be less than one without. I figured as long as I kept the turbo higher than where the return goes in I would be ok. There is not much room in the front gear cover for a fitting unless I can put one in where the injector gear is as that seems the easiest access. The last option would be to drop the pan and put a fitting up high on the pan above the oil line. Since the engine uses a spacer between the block and the pan, the crank should not be an issue but I would have to verify that before I drill there.

Yup, that's me!
Like I said before, I can't wait to see pics of how you do it, I am interested in doing the same to mine(once I get a few more hrs on it!) I cant leave nothin' alone!

 

[SpudHauler]

I put a turbo from SPF on my RTV1100 and the oil returns to the spare dipstick hole on the exhaust side of the engine. Originally they used a fitting into the top of the oil pan, like you said, above the oil level.
That much oil in the valve cover will probably lead to problems eventually. Like you are running all that extra oil over the hottest part of your engine just to get it back to the oil pan and with the extra oil in the valve cover, leakage by the valves can be an issue.
Mine runs 5-7lbs boost and depending on the pump adjustment, can be very hard on fuel. Backed down to minimal adjustment it gives just the level of power I was looking for and good fuel economy as well.
Very easy to have excessive power, low fuel economy and no great benefit to productivity. Probably just break more stuff.
Good luck. I would do it again and will probably take the kit to my next purchase if that should occur.

 

[Nick359]

I am in the process of putting a turbo on my 755. After finding the turbo was too big to fit where the muffler was, I will be making a header and putting it above the engine. I am also thinking about putting the drainback in the valve cover. I have to pull it off to fix a leak, so I will take a look then.

I had to put the exhaust back on today to plow snow too. I blew up my truck last week, so I spent my days off buying a new one. I gave my pipe bender away when I moved a few years ago. I thought I wouldn't need it anymore. I bought a new one today. I will be tearing into mine next week.

I have a TD02 twin scroll. I will see how a twin scroll works on a three cylinder.

 

[PCABE5]

Should have the exhaust made up today and pick up some miscellaneous supplies. I am sure I will forget some. I'll get some pictures together this weekend and get them posted.

Done so far:

Turbo (I posted the wrong turbo earlier, it is a GT15 not a 12)
Exhaust (should be done today)
Oil supply line and fittings
Return hose

Need input and output air hoses and to decide where I am going to place the oil return.

 

[jonyyuma]

I have a Turbo from a MB it is a garrett, fits the 300 td 5 cylinder. I have wanted to fit it to another engine.Turbo power is so sweet and strong.

 

[PCABE5]

Hit some snags at the moment. I made that exhaust mounting an exact duplicate of the muffler. This puts my oil return wedged inbetween the valve cover and exhaust (still is not a problem as it will hookup). So I will have to raise that up.

Also I am trying to use the existing air filter and this is a problem as the compressor intake hose interferes with the turbo outlet. They block one another at the valve cover. I will have to see if I can flip the small top intake cover where the air intake is at. If I cannot flip it then I will have to see about another filter option that can filter the dust well enough.

 

[scrappy isb67]

Hit some snags at the moment. I made that exhaust mounting an exact duplicate of the muffler. This puts my oil return wedged inbetween the valve cover and exhaust (still is not a problem as it will hookup). So I will have to raise that up.

Also I am trying to use the existing air filter and this is a problem as the compressor intake hose interferes with the turbo outlet. They block one another at the valve cover. I will have to see if I can flip the small top intake cover where the air intake is at. If I cannot flip it then I will have to see about another filter option that can filter the dust well enough.

why not put the air filter just ahead of the rad above the battery?

 

[PCABE5]

I could look at that option but it might not fit. Also I do not want to obstruct air flow, not that it would much, because the IDI engines already run pretty warm as it is. I am looking at just modifying the existing air filter mount to move the box up and back or forward so the hoses are easier to route. Once the snow ends and I can get the loader off it will be easier to get to things. Right now I am raiding the wife's shop for thin metal to make exhaust gaskets.

 

[Nick359]

How is the turbo install going? Mine is almost finished. Here is a pick of my air filter setup. Hope it helps you.

 

[kuboman]

Just a comment about dumping the oil into the valve cover. If the slope of the drain tube is not steep enough you will get oil backing up the drain tube and that will cause a leak at the turbo. It will built enough pressure to force it through the turbo bearings. Also you must be careful that your oil pump has enough capacity to supply the turbo and the engine as the turbo uses a fairly high flow which brings me to the valve cover idea again. If the oil is cold and slow flowing it is possible to starve the engine of oil because of the long route to the oil pan. Also oil from the turbo runs hotter than the rest of the engine which will add to the heat load on the engine.

 

[Nick359]

I ended up putting the drain to the oil pan. All the oil in the valve cover drains around the pushrods, so I didn't want to overload it or have all that oil on the rotating assembly.

Here is a link to my turbo install with pics.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/198698-john-deere-755-turbo.html

 

[PCABE5]

Nick359,

I have everything to install the turbo but right now I am just waiting for time. I had taken the loader off to get started and then we got 14"+ of snow so I had to put the tractor back together and the loader back on. Reaching around the loader is a pain so I have been waiting until I can leave it off to install it. As far as my oil return I am going to put it into the gearcase or the oil pan.

I like your install. Where did you get the metric adaptor and what size did you use? I was looking at just tapping mine to 1/8NPT.

 

[Nick359]

I was going to tap my oil fitting, I even bought the tap. I was afraid of getting metal in the engine, and pushing metal shavings through the bearings. I think the sender is after the filter.

I went to a hydrolic line shop to get the oil line made and they had the adapter. I don't remember the metric size. I brought the oil pressure sender with me. They had one in stock. Metric to 1/8" pipe. I put the metric oil pressure sender to the 1/8" pipe on the other end of the T. It seems to work. I was not concerned about ruining the threads, and if it leaked, I was going to put in a guage.

I will be heading back to get an adapter to put in a temp guage. I don't think my light works. The wire was cut when I bought the tractor and it doesn't turn on while cranking. I would rather put the effort in putting in a guage than fixing the idiot light.

 

[PCABE5]

My temp gauge was an M16x1.5 to 1/8" I believe, that is if yours is the same size. I put in a gauge about a month ago when I installed my worklights and 12v powerport and the gauge is really nice verses the idiot light. I run about 160 degrees stock and then I can compare this after the turbo gets put on.

 

[JDdude]

Where is the innercooler?

 

[PCABE5]

JDdude, I was talking about a coolant temp gauge I had installed not an intercooler. No real room to route the hoses for an intercooler ahead of the radiator.

Here is a pic of the turbo. The wastegate diaphram will come off as I will disable the wastegate.

 

[JDdude]

I have a buddy in Wisconsin who rebuilds turbos and installs them on motorcycles..If anyone needs one for this application , let me know I will hook you up with him..He has run the Bonneville salt flats a few times..Knows his stuff, as you seem to, also..

I have a good intercooler off of a international dump truck I will sell ya..you could use it to push snow..It is huge.