Quick Hitches Cat I or II quick hitch?

[jeffxjet]

I wanna pick up a quick hitch and my tractor has cat II on it. Does it make sense to get a cat II quick hitch or should I get a cat I? I already have one cat I attachment that I fixed with bushings to get on the cat II hookup.

 

[greg_g]

You have to be careful when selecting these three point quick hitches. I much prefer the lower lift arm type like Pat's Easy Change. Besides pin diameter differences between/among categories, there are hitch geometry differences. A true Cat II QH will have lower arms that are a nominal 32" apart, as opposed to the 26" Cat I spec. The Cat II toplink pin location will be higher too, and the QH itself should be rated to pick up heavier stuff than does Cat 1. And to confuse things even further, there are some QH out there that purport to be Cat I/II.

My best advice is to measure twice, cut once.

//greg//

 

[jeffxjet]

That's what I found from my research. I was wondering if it made more sense to get the cat I QH and modify it with bushings to fit my cat II hookup because there is greater availability of cat I implements. Or is it better to get cat II QH and modify the attachments to fit the QH. As you said the internal spacing is my big concern.

 

[gwdixon]

That's what I found from my research. I was wondering if it made more sense to get the cat I QH and modify it with bushings to fit my cat II hookup because there is greater availability of cat I implements. Or is it better to get cat II QH and modify the attachments to fit the QH. As you said the internal spacing is my big concern.

If you get the Pat's it can be adjusted to all dimensions. With the Pat's CAT 2 all you'd need is a couple of CAT 2->1 bushings for the lift pins.

To be especially fancy, buy enough bushings for all the CAT 1 lift pins on all your implements and leave the lynch pins/washers/bushings in place.

The special washers can be purchased or made using a regular washer with a small washer bent and tack welded on to hold the lynch pin.

A more expensive solution is to buy CAT 2 lift pins and just replace the CAT 1 pins.

I had a couple of the fixed frame quick hitches and ended up selling them because of their lack of adaptability.

 

[TractorTidy]

Also remember that the reason that your tractor has a Cat. 2 hitch is because it is a utility tractor, not a compact utility. All compacts have Cat.1 and utilitys have cat. 2. Keep in mind the HP and wt. of the tractor. It is suited for the heavier cat. 2 implements, not cat 1. So if you use cat. 1 implements on a larger HP, heavier tractor, you run the risk of tearing up the implement(s). That's why there are heavier implements built for cat. 2 tractors and hitches. Bottom line, if you go to a heavier tractor, you need heavier implements.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Also remember that the reason that your tractor has a Cat. 2 hitch is because it is a utility tractor, not a compact utility. All compacts have Cat.1 and utilitys have cat. 2. Keep in mind the HP and wt. of the tractor. It is suited for the heavier cat. 2 implements, not cat 1. So if you use cat. 1 implements on a larger HP, heavier tractor, you run the risk of tearing up the implement(s). That's why there are heavier implements built for cat. 2 tractors and hitches. Bottom line, if you go to a heavier tractor, you need heavier implements.

I agree with this 100%. There is a reason that your JD has a cat 2 hitch, and that is that it needs cat 2 implements. Yes you can use cat 1 stuff, but beware that there is a good chance that it will not hold up to your tractor. If you want to use cat 1 size implements, then maybe you should have bought a smaller tractor. Sort of like putting a finish nail in with an 8 pound sledge hammer. Yes it can be done, but not the best use of the tool.

 

[jeffxjet]

So I guess the question is do I need to look for cat II implements then? I was aware of the need to be careful with the smaller implements. With all the research I've been doing on tillers and box blades and such everything seems to be cat I. Am I needing to focus my search on a whole extra level?

 

[milkman636]

Try to find a Woods dealer in your area that carries some inventory. Their cat2 lineup has worked well on my 5210.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

So I guess the question is do I need to look for cat II implements then? I was aware of the need to be careful with the smaller implements. With all the research I've been doing on tillers and box blades and such everything seems to be cat I. Am I needing to focus my search on a whole extra level?

You bought the tractor, now you really should have the implements that belong behind it. I know first hand that when you use an implement that is too light duty for your tractor, it will get damaged in some manner sooner or later. Yes the cat 2 implements are a lot more money than the cat 1 implements, there is good reason for that. It is not just the actual hitch points that are different.

 

[jeffxjet]

Where do you find them? I was looking at tractor supply and various other websites and all I seem to find is cat I. Do I need to go to a physical location in my AO to find them, at the dealer? Even looking at the online woods catalog it seemed I was seeing all cat I. Was I not looking at the correct section ?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Where do you find them? I was looking at tractor supply and various other websites and all I seem to find is cat I. Do I need to go to a physical location in my AO to find them, at the dealer? Even looking at the online woods catalog it seemed I was seeing all cat I. Was I not looking at the correct section ?

What implements are you looking for? Let us know and maybe we can point you in a direction that we have had good luck with.

Yes sometimes the cat 2 stuff is a little harder to find, have to look a little harder. I am a Land Pride fan and have a PD35 post hole digger and bits and a Land Pride RBT45108 rear blade. Woods, Bush Hog, Rhino and others should all have cat 2 implements. I would stay away from the economy brands, but that may just be me.

 

[jeffxjet]

I guess right now I'm in the market for a box blade. I guess after it will be a tiller and then a post hole digger and possibly a back hoe. After that who knows what I might need.

I did go back and look at the woods catalog and I had to go up to the extreme duty BB to get a cat II. I guess I assumed I didn't need to go up that far.

 

[deere5105]

I guess right now I'm in the market for a box blade. I guess after it will be a tiller and then a post hole digger and possibly a back hoe. After that who knows what I might need.

I did go back and look at the woods catalog and I had to go up to the extreme duty BB to get a cat II. I guess I assumed I didn't need to go up that far.

I may be the only one to feel this way, but I am not sure you will experience a lot of equipment failure by going with Cat 1 implements with your set up. If I am reading correctly you will be using this equipment behind a 55 HP 2WD JD 5055D. I previously owned a JD 5105 2WD that was rated at 50 HP. I had 14.9-28 rear tires loaded with water. Many times I would lose traction and spin to a stop. I added a JD 512 FEL to the tractor during ownership. I enjoyed the tractor but at times was disappointed with the lack of traction. I upgraded to JD 5303 4WD recently which is equivalent of the JD 5065E. So far I have noticed a significant difference in traction. In my opinion, if you buy quality implements that are designed to match the HP rating of your tractor you should be good. Applying common sense to how you use your equipment will also go a long way. I understand that with the larger utility framed tractors you can more easily damage your equipment, but again paying attention to what you are doing will help. I have noticed some of the compacts on this site are ballasted to weigh as much or more than some of utility tractors I have seen.

 

[johnrex62]

I don't think the problem is the weight of the tractor so much as the horsepower. Most people tend to pull or push a blade until the tractor can't move it any more. With a 30hp machine that equates to x psi of torture on the attachement. Put a 50 or 60 HP machine on the same cat I attachment and you will likely see popped welds or ripped bolt attachment points when the design is overwhelmed by the HP.

Sure you can baby the task and make your equipment last, but really, be honest. How long are you gonna resist pushing it just a little to get the job done.

 

[milkman636]

My 5210 is basically equivalent to your 5055d. I 've been using a Woods HB72 for 11 years with it, It has held up well, but it is as light as you would want to go for your tractor. You'll be able to handle one with a little more width or a higher moldboard without a problem.

The hitch points themselves will be the weak point on most cat1 implements. Look for attachments that use removable pins instead of the bolt-on type that stick out unsupported on one side. With ballasted r1s, the loader, and 140 ft/lbs of torque you will be able to really put any cat1 impement through some destructive testing. Just take take your time and let the implements work. Don't ram things and you should be alright.

PS.... weight is your friend. Look at the amount of material that a maker puts into their equipment, don't get overly hung up on price.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My 5210 is basically equivalent to your 5055d. I 've been using a Woods HB72 for 11 years with it, It has held up well, but it is as light as you would want to go for your tractor. You'll be able to handle one with a little more width or a higher moldboard without a problem.

The hitch points themselves will be the weak point on most cat1 implements. Look for attachments that use removable pins instead of the bolt-on type that stick out unsupported on one side. With ballasted r1s, the loader, and 140 ft/lbs of torque you will be able to really put any cat1 impement through some destructive testing. Just take take your time and let the implements work. Don't ram things and you should be alright.

PS.... weight is your friend. Look at the amount of material that a maker puts into their equipment, don't get overly hung up on price.

I think that usually the weight goes along with the higher price, doesn't it?
I don't know of any $600 1000lb box blades.

I believe that any implement that works the ground is a concern. Yes there are heavy duty cat 1 implements that would work, some are even the same implement as the cat 2 but with cat 1 size hitch or even a combo cat 1-2 hitch. But as long as you are buying new, might as well get what you really need, not something that might work.

Just my opinion

 

[gwdixon]

I'll agree with deere5105. Cat 1 implements can be run on a Cat 2 tractor within reason.

The tinny blades, box blades, middle busters, small rototillers, and very light duty stuff won't last of course. Ground engaging equipment needs to be heavy duty even for small tractors. But those can be found in heavy Cat 1 form for a price - although not as pricey as Cat 2.

A 3pt disk, counterweight, Bush Hog, flail mower, rake, carryall, forks, hay spear, and the like aren't so much of a problem.

I put an ad on Craigslist offering to buy any and all Cat 2 implements and there were no responses over a 3 month period - and I live in an ag area. They are hard to find and those that have them are reluctant to give them up.

 

[jeffxjet]

I may be the only one to feel this way, but I am not sure you will experience a lot of equipment failure by going with Cat 1 implements with your set up. If I am reading correctly you will be using this equipment behind a 55 HP 2WD JD 5055D. I previously owned a JD 5105 2WD that was rated at 50 HP. I had 14.9-28 rear tires loaded with water. Many times I would lose traction and spin to a stop. I added a JD 512 FEL to the tractor during ownership. I enjoyed the tractor but at times was disappointed with the lack of traction. I upgraded to JD 5303 4WD recently which is equivalent of the JD 5065E. So far I have noticed a significant difference in traction. In my opinion, if you buy quality implements that are designed to match the HP rating of your tractor you should be good. Applying common sense to how you use your equipment will also go a long way. I understand that with the larger utility framed tractors you can more easily damage your equipment, but again paying attention to what you are doing will help. I have noticed some of the compacts on this site are ballasted to weigh as much or more than some of utility tractors I have seen.

You hit the nail on the head.

 

[jeffxjet]

I put an ad on Craigslist offering to buy any and all Cat 2 implements and there were no responses over a 3 month period - and I live in an ag area. They are hard to find and those that have them are reluctant to give them up.

That was the whole point of my thread. I've been looking everywhere my limited experience will take me and coming up with all cat I. Craigslist is the same way. I already have a cat I tree spade so that's where the dilema cropped up...Do I get a cat I quick hitch and smaller ground engagement stuff or go with cat II QH and implements and just take the whole shebang off when I want to use the tree spade. Admittedly the tree spade will be an occasional use item and it wont need to be on and off on a regular basis.

Thank you guys for the input.

 

[gwdixon]

That was the whole point of my thread. I've been looking everywhere my limited experience will take me and coming up with all cat I. Craigslist is the same way. I already have a cat I tree spade so that's where the dilema cropped up...Do I get a cat I quick hitch and smaller ground engagement stuff or go with cat II QH and implements and just take the whole shebang off when I want to use the tree spade. Admittedly the tree spade will be an occasional use item and it wont need to be on and off on a regular basis.

Thank you guys for the input.

That is where a CAT 2, Pat's Easy Change would come in. All of your CAT 1 equipment would fit with a CAT 2 -> CAT 1 pair of bushings (and a top link bushing). Cost less than $10 for the bushings.

Plus, any CAT 2 equipment that you come across will fit right on to the Pat's by just leaving off the bushings.