Snow SECRETS TO USING A SNOW BLADE

[Chilly807]

I think you're right James, the R4 tires are normally on welded one-piece rims and aren't adjustable without spacers. I notice a big difference in the 3400 with them adjusted all the way "wide".
I have R1's. Last year they were set as they came from the factory, which was with the inner "dish" out, and the lugs on the rim itself on the inside of the dish. I switched the rears side to side and put the lugs on the outside of the dish, added about 4 inches to the tractor width and a ton of stability. Before changing them, even backing over an ice ridge was enough to activate the "pucker factor" for me.

The 7 foot blade would be a better choice for snow, I have a 6 foot blade myself. For moving dirt , I think the 6 foot is a good match for the tractor power and traction.

One thing you can do with the shorter blade is to offset the blade to one side as far as the sway chains/turnbuckles will allow. Some blades let you move the whole blade to one side (true offset), but I cheat and simply set the sway chains to angle the whole blade to one side. I have mine adjusted about 8-10 inches to the right, so it will wing the snow further out on that side. It doesn't quite cover the left tire track when it's set like that, but I rarely take a full width cut except on the first pass through anyway.

Ordinarily I try to put the centerline of the tractor on the ridge from the last pass, break it down with the bucket if I have to. At a 35-40* angle you don't get much spillage off the leading edge of the plow that way. I normally plow going ahead only, use reverse and the back of the blade for tidying up.

Sean

 

[Oldchuck]

No seatbelt with the ROPS down, you want to get away from the tractor if it rolls in that condition. In all truth though, unless you're working somewhere that has limited overhead clearance, the ROPS should be up and locked, and your seatbelt ON. Snow clearing is particularly dangerous for rollovers, since ditches and other hazards are harder to see, you're often working from memory as to exactly where they are.

Sean

I know you're always supposed to fasten your seat belt but when I blow snow I just can't do it. I ain't as agile as I used to be and snow blowing to the rear requires constant and quick attention shifts to rear and front and both sides. I just can't do it with a belt on. So I live dangerously.

Same goes for pushing a blade to the rear I suppose, except you don't have to deal with that constant, blinding spray of snow.

I've thought about attaching a big rear view mirror so I don't have to twist so much. I've even thought about a rear TV monitor set up. But the problem I have with those ideas is the same problem I have with my glasses or goggles. After about two minutes of white-out spray from the blower I'm totally blinded by crusted up or fogged up snow and ice.

 

[Nature Girl]

Yes, your detailed instructions will help me look at the set up with new eyes and try to make some adjustments. Fortunately we did not get the huge bank of snow that was anticipated so my panic has lessoned. I certainly would rather be on the safe side and make sure my installation is right.

I still need to sit on the tractor a bit just to warm the seat and make some tracks in the snow while I attempt to move a few smaller cedar logs we are ready to hew.

With appreciation!

 

[Chilly807]

I know you're always supposed to fasten your seat belt but when I blow snow I just can't do it. I ain't as agile as I used to be and snow blowing to the rear requires constant and quick attention shifts to rear and front and both sides. I just can't do it with a belt on. So I live dangerously.

Same goes for pushing a blade to the rear I suppose, except you don't have to deal with that constant, blinding spray of snow.

I've thought about attaching a big rear view mirror so I don't have to twist so much. I've even thought about a rear TV monitor set up. But the problem I have with those ideas is the same problem I have with my glasses or goggles. After about two minutes of white-out spray from the blower I'm totally blinded by crusted up or fogged up snow and ice.

You're not the only one that doesn't use the belt, Chuck. I'm as guilty as anybody, although I always put the ROPS up.

Sean

 

[Travelover]

One trick I use in really deep snow is to plow in reverse with the back blade in the straight (no angle) position. I then plow in a "Y" configuration, first pushing the snow to the left in an arc, then the right, alternating down the driveway. Once you have done this the length of the driveway, you can go back and clean it up using the angled blade and moving forward. Be careful pushing snow in reverse because you can bend the 3 point arms or break the turnbuckles if you whack something solid. :ashamed:

If the snow is deep, but not excessive, I adjust the blade to a tight (more acute) angle and plow in a forward direction. For lighter snow I use a wider (less acute) angle on the blade. I also keep the FEL full of packed snow for more traction on the front wheels.

 

[Ford tractor]

[

I think you're right James, the R4 tires are normally on welded one-piece rims and aren't adjustable without spacers. I notice a big difference in the 3400 with them adjusted all the way "wide".
I have R1's. Last year they were set as they came from the factory, which was with the inner "dish" out, and the lugs on the rim itself on the inside of the dish. I switched the rears side to side and put the lugs on the outside of the dish, added about 4 inches to the tractor width and a ton of stability. Before changing them, even backing over an ice ridge was enough to activate the "pucker factor" for me.


Sean

Actually, "most" industrial wheels are width adjustable. The L3700 seems to not be, it's a pretty small tractor with just 19.5" wheels and it's an economy model. That really limits the machine, imho. Since there is a reported 1" clearance side to side, now there is no chance of getting chains on it.

 

[TDVT]

I have R1's. Last year they were set as they came from the factory, which was with the inner "dish" out, and the lugs on the rim itself on the inside of the dish. I switched the rears side to side and put the lugs on the outside of the dish, added about 4 inches to the tractor width and a ton of stability. Before changing them, even backing over an ice ridge was enough to activate the "pucker factor" for me.

Boy that's good to hear.

I have Ag's on my 3400 as well & I have never felt all that confident about it's stability. Our 8N feels much more solid. I have thought about swapping around the track-width but have been too lazy. Thanks for the push.

 

[mostly_gas]

Don't make the tire chains a high priority. I have not used chains since going to 4WD 15+ years ago and have not had a problem. I have R1 (Ag) tires and they are not loaded. I cleaned the last round of snow and sleet off without putting on the wheel weights. I live in the same general area as you.
One thing to remember is push the snow as far over as you can when pushing snow to leave room for more snow if it does not all melt between storms.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Sean, I just have to ask, are you ever going to paint that blade black?

 

[Chilly807]

Brian,

Now that's a good question.. it was sorta blackish when I got it, but the rest of the blade was the Land Pride yellow/brown/whatever-ya-call-it kinda colour. Me being a Kubota owner (note the GREY paint on the end of the lift arms?) I decided I'd paint the blade grey, and the rest of the blade is now K-orange.

I have to admit, I'm running low on grey paint though. I guess this means I'm gonna have to buy some more.. grey paint!

Loosely translated, the answer to your question is .. not anytime soon

Sean

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Sean, I had been thinking that it was just primer from when you had been fabricating. The OEM Land Pride from Kubota dealers has the Kubota Orange frame work with black blades.

Thanks for the answer though.

 

[Nature Girl]

Everything is possible when you have an amazing support team and likely over 200 years of combined experience in the world of tractoring. Thanks for all your suggestions and help. I was able to get the blade attached (hopefully correctly) and to clear the drives.

You can see how close the side arms are to the tires, but they say that is normal. I was so conservative staying away from the edges of the drive into my property that I plowed it the perfect width of my truck tires - ha.

With gratitude,
Nature Girl

 

[k0ua]

A couple of things. yes the arms look normal, I hope you took another 2 passes at the road, to move those windrows over closer to the sides, because when we get more snow, (and we got more coming monday tuesday and wednesday) and the first windrow has thawed and refrozen, it becomes almost impossible to move over any, and that does not leave any room for your next windrow. Also a purchase you might consider for those lower 3PH arms is either a PATs easychange, (they are featured on this forum) or the Carter's. I have the Carters, but either make the hookup a little shall we say less "colorful". Also they eliminate the need to kick the heck out of the 3PH arms. which I have done plenty of in my time. If fact I hurt my foot once from trying to kick the arms off or on.
Here is a photo of the Carters :
Welcome to CARTER AND SON'S TOOL AND DIE
And the Pats:
Pats Easy Change 3 Point Hitch System

The Pats offer the advantage of not having to mess with putting in pins.but they are more money.

The other alternative is a 1 piece quick hitch like the john deere I match or one of at least a dozen other manufactures, even Harbor Freight has one. The only disadvantage to them is all of the implements must either fit it out of the box or some of them will have to be modified to fit it. The advantage to these products is you do not even need to hook up the toplink of the 3 point as it has a hook also. But any of these systems will be better than struggleing with hookups. Good luck with everything.

James K0UA

 

[Ken Pike]

Can you move the attachment point for the stabiliser bars closer to the tractor & shorten the stabilisers some? That would get them away from the tires a bit more.

 

[Nature Girl]

My goal is to see if it's possible to use a tractor without beating it with large tools and exerting extreme bodily force. I cannot seem to get the stabilizer bars closer and I am sure there is an adjustment that someone who has done this would see in 2 seconds.

I also purchased the "easy" attachment arms with the pins that are supposed to make things simple to manuever but it seems there is an additional attachment that I am hearing about from Pat's that would bless me too.

Carter and Son's website admits that this 3pt stuff is an event....Here is what their ad says: The EZ-HITCH takes away the back pain and headache of changing your 3-Point implements. A 20 - 30 minute back breaking task can now be done in about 3 minutes thanks to the EZ-HITCH!

 

[Nature Girl]

Going to order Pat's Quick System and I am assuming that I just choose the Category 1 hitch, they have several different types is that the best one for my Kubota L3700SU HST?

 

[k0ua]

The Carter's and Pats are similar in purpose. the Pats is a little more advanced. The concept is converting your lower links into hooks, so that you can back up the tractor slowly and line up the hooks just under the pins on the implement and raise you 3pt. lift and hook the pins from underneath. The Pats have an automatic latch so they are hooked then and there, the Carters require you to get off and put in a pin on the top that retains them. Of course you have to get off anyway to hook up the top link. Usually the top link is the easy part of the 3pt. Hookup anyway, as you just screw or unscrew it until it matches up and slide in the pin. If all your implements are about the same distance between the pins, you don't even have to mess with the side link adjustments. As long as you side link sliding adjusters don't hit the tire, and you have all of the slack sway adjusted out then it does not matter how close to the tire it is. One other difference between the Carters and the Pats is the Pats actually extend the length of your lower arms, and the Carters sit on top of your lower arms, so with the Carters your arms cannot go quite as low as using the factory balls as the hitch point. the Pats Require taking into account the extended length. I truly believe either the Carters or the Pats really do save time and swear words. They have for me. It takes a little time to get good at backing up your tractor precisely to get just under the implement pins and raising your 3pt. to latch on. The Hydrostat transmission you have is ideal for precise movements like this.
This thread shows the Carters with my Ballast box on the back. and the 3rd picture here shows it pretty well expecially if you magnify it.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/177061-using-truck-bed-coating-floorboards-3.html
Hope this helps to understand these hitch ideas, but in the end you will just have to find a product or method that works for you.

Get ready for more snow!

James K0UA

 

[Nature Girl]

Thanks K0ua, I was wondering if adding the extension from Pat's would be an issue with the lower links expanding out too far since they are already tight. The image helps see how the Carters work on top.

Love the trash can attachment for carrying tools, what a great idea and it sure fills a niche. I just need to figure out how to use my arch welder. I'll begin with learning the tractor, but have a sneaking suspicion that soon welding will be a skill to acquire with a huge piece of steel driving all over the property.

Think you should propose the truck bed lining on the floor board to Kubota, it could add a fun side project for you.

 

[k0ua]

The 55 gallon drum has about 650 lbs of concrete in it and with the steel rebar and a 2 inch gravel base in the bottom with the drum itself it weighs about another 100 lbs. there are three 2 inch diameter pieces of PVC set in the concrete for handle tools to slide down into. It has been a very handy implement, as it ballasts the tractor properly (the liquid loaded tires help a bunch also) yet it does not stick out as much as a blade or mower for ballast. I can operate in the trees or near buildings much easier. Yep the Welder is a good thing to master, I have two and I am getting better all the time. but I wont lie and say it is easy, My DC welder is easier and makes prettier welds, but I stuck metal together for years with my old AC Lincoln.

James K0UA

 

[Nature Girl]

The manual recommends a 5' and the dealership said a 6', so it seems if I purchased a 7' it would widen the span even further or maybe the 3pt stays the same on all 5, 6 and 7' implements.
Manual details....
16. Snow Blade
Max. width mm (in.) 1524 (60)
Max. weight kg (lbs.) 300 (660)