Buying Advice ym2000BD is the price right?

[winston1]

Don't guess it means a whole lot but my Vietnam ym2002d had around 2700 hours on it when I bought it from LCI in Wills Point Texas. At that time about 3 years ago they had a lot full of tractors and although I can't remember all the hours I do remember they were all ranges. Just trying to say VN tractors can also have higher hours. I would be careful to say higher hours means it has proved to be ok unless you have evidence the hours were put on over here. Unlike Normde I put about 100 hours a year on mine. I just did a little math. I have had my tractor 3 years and have put 371 hours on it.

 

[California]

That's our point, all VN reconditioners use the bulldog or the v2 loaders, but anything is possible.

The VN imports here (NorCal) had Koykers. These guys were trying to run a quality operation but they took back so many no-hassle warranty returns that the poor quality of their supply buried them.

 

[Smoody]

Well atleast if you bought one you were getting a good quality loader..hehe

 

[Survey1]

For an update. The 2000BD will be on the lot tommorrow and I will be there bright and early ready to buy. I know to check fluids and for smoke, lift operation, clutch operation etc. But, I wonder about one last thing. I have read either on TBN or elsewhere that some of the reconditioning folks have labeled models incorrectly during the process and that verification of the block stamping number should be done to be sure of what you get. My question is where would the number be located and what should it read for a true ym2000bd? Thanks.

 

[clemsonfor]

it will be a couple things but i cant say forsure. There is a model number stamped on the tranny housing which will be by your left heel while sitting in the tractor seat. Get off the tractor and then look at the side of the transmission in this spot it will read like 2000b then some # which is the actual production # of that transmission, remember they may have been split up in Nam if thats where its from. The engine will be a 2 cyl and reap 20hp PTo and 24HP engine at 2400rpms. I think its like a 2T-r or something for the motor plate but not sure.

Make sure that the radiator is not cracked, i went thru like 3 befor they finially gave me a new one. Also run it in high and low every gear, listen for grinding or whining. Touch oil pan before starting and make sure that its cold and they did not warm it up for you, this way you will see a tru cold start.

 

[California]

Engine model plate is by the starter. The serial # is stamped nearby.

Engine series 2TR20A was in most (all?) of the YM2000's sent over here. I think 2TR20A-X (same as my '81 US Yanmar) should be in a YM2000B.

Not sure but I think all the earlier engines had dipstick on the right and later ones on the left. I can't find any other difference in the -X series.

I've read that YM2000B has such tight clearance around the oil filter (alternator bracket??) that you can't use the larger of the two size of filters that fit most Yanmars. I don't seem to have that issue.

The engine plate will show 20 hp.

 

[clemsonfor]

The engine plate will show 20 hp.

I agrre with everything else, and technically this California, buttt.. It will also say in smaller print 24 engine HP at something like 2400 rpm. 20HP will be big and stand out the most to you, but 24 will also be on there, it is on my ym2000. Your correct my engine is the 2TR20a i just could not remember and tractor is 3 hours away.

 

[California]

It will also say in smaller print 24 engine HP at something like 2400 rpm. 20HP will be big and stand out the most to you, but 24 will also be on there, it is on my ym2000.

I just learned something here. My US version states 24 hp on its plate so I assumed the Japan model had the same text with the number 20 in there.

For anyone not familiar with this - the same identical engine bears these different ratings depending on where it will be sold. Japanese customers want to know the hp available at the pto to turn a tiller. American customers expect the rating to be expressed same as American cars traditionally were, the raw hp of the naked engine running on a test stand. Same engine, different representations of output.

 

[normde2001]

For an update. The 2000BD will be on the lot tommorrow and I will be there bright and early ready to buy. I know to check fluids and for smoke, lift operation, clutch operation etc. But, I wonder about one last thing. I have read either on TBN or elsewhere that some of the reconditioning folks have labeled models incorrectly during the process and that verification of the block stamping number should be done to be sure of what you get. My question is where would the number be located and what should it read for a true ym2000bd? Thanks.

A YM2000B will have a steel fuel tank, heavy chrome fuel cap, full engine covering, higher back seat, factory temp gauge, 9999.9 hour meter and I'm sure other extras that I can't remember.

 

[California]

Norm, what's the fuel capacity? A steel tank might take a little more than the 5.8 gallon plastic tank.

 

[careyo63]

Engine series 2TR20A was in most (all?) of the YM2000's sent over here. I think 2TR20A-X (same as my '81 US Yanmar) should be in a YM2000B.

(all?)Thats what I havn't been able to figure out myself as for -A.


Translation:laughing:

 

[normde2001]

Norm, what's the fuel capacity? A steel tank might take a little more than the 5.8 gallon plastic tank.

I heard 6 gal., but it could easily be 5.8.

 

[clemsonfor]

Engine series 2TR20A was in most (all?) of the YM2000's sent over here. I think 2TR20A-X (same as my '81 US Yanmar) should be in a YM2000B.

(all?)Thats what I havn't been able to figure out myself as for -A.


Translation:laughing:

Carey, that tag looks different than mine. I dont have mine here to take a picture of but mine does not look like that?? Do i have a knoc off chineese implant yanmar engine in my VN tractor?

 

[careyo63]

I had a feeling of that Clemsonfor. Nobody has been able to clarify it yet. Steve at Spalding is as about as Honest as they get. When I bought and asked him. He said he didn't know were it came from. A trade in Believe. My guess was a VN. imp. that was able to get put back together. I ruled that out when I was going through it straightening out a few things. Looks as though the Head has been off at one time thats about it. But definatly not Split.

Carey

 

[California]

FWIW here is the revision level chart for US YM240, the twin of YM2000.

In contrast to YM2000 Green (rare here), YM2000 Red, and YM2000B, which I think were single-year models, the US Yanmars were sold from '75 (?) through the end of sales in 1981 with little change.

Revision Level 1 had headlights on the side of the hood same as YM2000 Green.

My YM240 is revision level 3. (Level 4 had the air cleaner outside the hood). But my engine # falls between level 3 and level 4 according to that chart. The engine plate says 2TR20A-X while the engine # stamped on the block nearby is 2TR20A G00----.

I don't know how much of this applies to the Japan Yanmars. My guess is that YM2000B would be equivalent to level 3 or 4, except with better sheet metal and instruments.

 

[Survey1]

Hi folks, I have appeared again only to report failure on the purchase of the 2000BD. I showed up at the dealer bright and early only to find a 1700D sitting on the lot. Thursday, I spoke to a different gentlemen since my original salesman/GM was out of town, the "new guy" told me a 1700D with loader was onsite and I should look at it. I was unable to get there before closing on Thursday and I called ahead to say I was unable to make it since he said he had a deal working with another buyer. I told him I was unable to make it in time and I would like to see the 2000BD on Sat. He said sure and no problem. When I showed up this morning, there was not a 2000BD on site....but a 1700D FEL equipped. According to the salesman the 1700 deal fell through and he wasn't able to get the 2000BD in time.....hmmmm. Anyway he made a very sweet deal on the 1700D sitting there that I almost bought. I started it "cold start" good , rann the VTEK V2 loader without problem, ran all gears hi and lo, pto etc. checked the stamping on the trans. It was all good with a small amount of oil collected on the plate below the PTO. After dickering a bit over price and the new trailer waiting 15 feet away I started smelling antifreeze. I returned to the tractor to find no leaks in the cooling system. Puzzled, I resolved to tell the man that I must do research on the 1700 since my previous research involved only 2000's and I thought it might not accomodate my needs. Long story short....I could have bought a YM17000D with a VTEK V2 loader for $6800 and a 16' trailer that I wasn't happy with the construction for $1600 plus of course a 6% sales tax here. I told the man I'll call him on Mon. He jerked me around on having the 2000BD there so I jerked him around on not having the 2000BD there. The deal he hoped to work on the 1700 fell through so he hoped to push it on me. I just didn't like how light the *** felt while operating the loader dry but it seemed like a deal. Gotta call the man on Monday and tell him I want the 2000BD on the lot and we will work a deal. Gimme a price to offer with a VTEK V2 FEL on this 2000BD machine. Just as a footnote, I will not accept a powershift. Don't understand it, don't need it. Still at $7700 initially for the tractor I want.

 

[Survey1]

BTW the smell of antfreeze was investigated after and I couldn't find a leak but with Clemsonfor's post it added to my idea of being gun-shy and was probably a hinge point with my decision....So for that Thanks Clemsonfor! I must buy what I really need and want.

 

[Pete Judd]

Don't give up on the "Powershift" they seem to be bullet proof, and after a quick learning curve, you will love it. With a loader even more. I had a shuttle transmission on an OC-3 years ago, and the left leg would get tired after a while. I had a Hydro on the last JD mower, and the "powershift" is almost as good. IMHO.

 

[Neat 1500]

yeah now having a machine with powershift i wish the 1500 had it.maybe one day i will trade up to a bigger machine with p/shift. but i will be sad to let the 1500 go

 

[California]

didn't like how light the [1700D] *** felt while operating the loader dry

...will not accept a powershift. Don't understand it, don't need it.

Anything with a loader needs the rear tires loaded (water or antifreeze) before you ever pick anything up. And more ballast on the 3-point before doing practical work. These tractors are awfully narrow for a loader. When I first started reading here I found a post something like "We had a YM240 with loader here at the plant for many years. It never went off a paved surface. I would look out my window and see it lying on its side with the loader lifted to max a couple of times per year. That never seemed to hurt it." As soon as I read that I went and loaded my rear tires.

Powershift is excellent. I think it is worth at least $1500 premium in the price. (4wd likewise). This is partly just for convenience but more important, it allows you to start a heavier load in a higher gear giving a broader speed range. This really helps productivity. They are bulletproof. I don't recall reading a post here in seven years describing any problem beyond needing the fluid/filter changed.

YM1700D. I think this is a sleeper, capable of more work than the smaller-chassis Yanmars. Some people think the absence of a water pump is a limitation but I don't share that belief - Yanmar designed it to put out full rated power all day with the cooling system it has. I think they got it right.

Prices and quality of dealer. These guys sound like they would shine you on if you needed warranty work. Their prices sound real high to me. Take a look at Fredricks web page (He's the big importer/wholesaler in that region) and phone for prices to see what a legitimate non-VN import should cost at one of his retailers.