Wiring saw for 240V

[czechsonofagun]

I decided to replace the original motor in the new for me Walker/Turner table saw. The original is only 1HP and 110V - I would like to go with at least 3HP and wire it for 240V.

The saw will be pretty much in the same spot, but I would like to be able to move it if necessary - it means wall plug and a cord and a switch.

I checked the local HD and must say I am confused. First of all, they have plugs for range and dryer and such - but which one would you use for a saw? I need 240V, not 110 - means three wires are enough, I don't have to bring the neutral over, but which plug and outlet to use?

Please, advice, how do you wire your 240 tools in your shop?

Thanks

 

[Egon]

Attached image for 220 volt configuration. The configuration may also depend on amps required?

 

[czechsonofagun]

Thank you, from what I could find, most people use L6-20R.

 

[LD1]

For the air-compressor I used what I think is just the regular 6-20 plug and receptical. It is the one that looks almost like a 110v plug, except one of the flats is turned sideways, instead of them both being parallel. Those are good to 20A. And with a 3HP motor (which sounds like overkill) 20A should be fine.

For the welder I use the range/dryer style 50A plug

 

[JimRB]

Have you tried to use the existing motor? At the old woodworking website they claim the old Delta Unisaws with the low horsepower bullet motors have a lot more power than you would think for the rating. Maybe now they inflate the power rating of some motors.

 

[PILOON]

If I'm not mistaken, older motors were rated using the 'run' amperage, while newer ones rate using the start amps.
Perhaps that would explain the power differences.

But, yes, an older 1 hp will sure outperform a new import type 1 hp.

 

[Egon]

Kinda slow but look at the receptacle for 220V on a generator.

 

[BobRip]

Will the saw arbor be able to handle the extra power and torque. If so this sounds like a good idea. I may convert my saw.

 

[czechsonofagun]

Thanks guys!

I am confident the saw can handle the additional power, it is good old American cast iron.

The current motor runs nicely but slows to stop under anything thicker than 1" - I believe it is bit tired. I am going to keep the original setup in storage - have to make new pulley - to be able to go back if necessary.

I found a Grizzly switch that will work nicely. I don't want to go crazy with this setup, but my former saw was just a $100 contractor's POS - I am ready for some real power and precision:thumbsup:

 

[Mace Canute]

This should help.

That's a nice handy chart. Thanks!

 

[Willl]

Why the 'want' for 240V over 120V ?

 

[BobRip]

Why the 'want' for 240V over 120V ?

The largest motor you can run on a 120 volt 15 amp circuit is about 1.5 horse power if everything were 100% efficient. They are not. Practically you can get about 1.25 hp. To get more you either go to a higher current on higher voltage or a more sophiscated motor (not a lot of gain here). It's cheaper to raise the voltage.

I know you see vacuum cleaners with 5hp running at 120 volt 15 amp circuit. The simple answer is they are lying.

 

[PILOON]

Will the saw arbor be able to handle the extra power and torque. If so this sounds like a good idea. I may convert my saw.

I would not hesitate one bit to go higher HP.

Notice the bore holes in saw blades. All the 8 & 10" blades are the same size and it is only 12" and up that go larger bore (shaft).

The sharpness of your blade will be the biggest factor in contributing strain on the shaft.
Just make shure your bearings are good and don't worry.

 

[BobRip]

I would not hesitate one bit to go higher HP.

Notice the bore holes in saw blades. All the 8 & 10" blades are the same size and it is only 12" and up that go larger bore (shaft).

The sharpness of your blade will be the biggest factor in contributing strain on the shaft.
Just make shure your bearings are good and don't worry.

Sounds good. It is worth the risk anyway. Where is a good place to get a motor.

 

[czechsonofagun]

It uses pulleys and three short belts - 8" or so - to transfer the power. I will have to resolve the new pulley too.

But first I think I will rewire the original motor to 240V to see if it makes a difference, the label says it is rated for it.

 

[Egon]

But first I think I will rewire the original motor to 240V to see if it makes a difference, the label says it is rated for it.

That will probably be quite satisfactory.

 

[MikeD74T]

Why the 'want' for 240V over 120V ?

Willl, Think of voltage as pressure (psi) and amperage or current as flow (i.e. gallons per minute). The higher the voltage (pressure) the more amperage (GPM) will flow thru a given size wire (pipe). Doubling the voltage doubles (or nearly so) the power (ability to do work) in the same sized circuit. Kind of like3 gpm from a pressure washer vs the same 3 gpm from a garden hose.
Notice the wire size of the powerline going down your street as compared to the wire size feeding your house. A small wire (at very high voltage) can power many houses that need bigger wires ( at lower voltage) to carry the small portion of the current needed by your house. MikeD74T

 

[Willl]

Mike, thanks for the lesson. :laughing::laughing:

But I didn't mean in general, meant just pertaining to a table saw. :thumbsup:

 

[BobRip]

That will probably be quite satisfactory.

I agree, this is easy to do and worth a try.

 

[AlanB]

Czech, your milage may vary, but normally for me, my HD has a much better electrical selection than Lowes, until you get to 220V 20A plugs, of which my HD carries Zero 0 or NONE. However, my Lowes carries a couple of versions.

They look like the 110 but the blade spacing is different enough to require the correct plug and socket.

They are about $5 each at my Lowes.