WHATS A GOOD IMPACT WRENCH?

[Bird]

All that said, we still have found some things that the air impact still won't budge. In that case, I get out the electric impact. Haven't found anything it wont take off. I can even run it from my truck with a 1500 watt power inverter. The electric impact is from Harbor Freight and cost me $39 on sale.

Yep, like the other guys said, that's unusual. In fact, there would have to be something wrong with your air supply or pneumatic impact UNLESS your air tool is also a cheap and weak unit. The Harbor Freight electric is rated at 240 ft. lbs. and I used to have a Harbor Freight (Central Pneumatic) 1/2" air impact (CP734 knock off) that was only rated at 210 ft. lbs.

In years past, I've owned both a Black & Decker and a Craftsman 1/2" electric impacts and they were rated for 210-250 ft. lbs. They were very handy for a full time RVer with a generator in the RV, but no air-compressor except for a 2 gallon 1/2 hp unit. One of my brothers who is s full time RVer still carries a Craftsman.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Look for Torque. I had a CH that only made 325 ft lb or something like that. I now have a twin hammer unit from HF thats called a Earthquake. It is a beast making 625 ft lb.

1/2" Impact Wrench

They run it on sale from time to time for $69 then I used the 20% off coupon and its been a good unit for the money.

Chris

 

[LD1]

For 100' 3/8 hose is good for about 7 cfm. 1/2" will do about 15. If you are going to install new lines this is the best system out there. It's quick and works well. The only limitation is the pipe is rated for 140 psi working pressure(but there's no need to be that high to begin with). The connectors are a push lock, just cut the hose and push it into the connector. We use them at work everywhere with no problems what so ever.

Compressed Air Piping, Compressed Air Systems, Do It Yourself Air Tool System

Northern tool sells it.

I like those systems as well.

MOST factorys I have been in have similar set-ups, allthough I have never seen one in a shop typ setup. The factories use them in a lot of systems that have a lot of air cylinders, or conveyor setups that us air-bags. They are definatally quick and easy to install/replace. I used push-connect fittings like that when I hooked up my air-cylinder can-crusher.

But In my shop, the air compressor is in the corner and I have 50' of hose on a reel. It will reach everywere in my 30x30 shop. And if I need more, I have more that I can add for things like airing up the trailer tires without haveing to back it into the shop.

 

[tsteahr]

With all this talk of impacts, I just ordered a IR2130 to replace my Campbell Housefield pos. I can't seem to find out if that model requires the grease gun. Does anyone know if the IR2130 uses a grease nipple or tool oil? Are the grease guns to fit IR something unique? I assume they are a smaller nipple then standard.

 

[LD1]

I thought I would also add that the ONLY time I can think of that my 2135ti has let me down was the center nut on the bushhog that held the stump jumper onto the gearbox. It was a 2" nut, left handed threads. I had to use the 3/4" drive socket with an adapter. It wouldnt budge it. I ended up having to use the 3/4" breaker bar with about 6' of pipe, and a pipewrench on the PTO shaft side bound against the deck to finally break it loose.

But I used the impact to re-install it. Used the 3/4" bar and 6' pipe to give it just a little more, and it was all I could do to tighten it anymore after the impact:thumbsup:

 

[escavader]

OK Heres shots of my train wreck of an air system ive used for years .I never knew why my impact never worked good now i think i do.Amazing the things you learn on TBN.heading to hd tommorow to look for 3/4 iron pipie and fittings
ALAN

 

[escavader]

so im curious too should i go pipe or rapid air system.Ilike KEVIN JS pipe system,[probably only take me 100 trips to the hardware store]and am willing to go that route if its the best .Kevin is that 3/4 pipe?so lets poll who thinks i should pipe it ,who thinks rapid air would be as good?
ALAN

 

[dcyrilc]

I'm going to guess too much line with too small a compressor.

I have to agree with an earlier post which suggested trying a 25-50 foot 3/8" or 1/2" hose straight off the compressor and see if your results improve. If so, then you can begin to look at how to overcome and improve on the limitations of your system before jumping out and spending a lot of money.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Truly astounding. You have a good impact gun that is not functioning properly. Are you using an extension? - they are springy. More than likely you are starving it for air. Use no regulator. Use no hose reel. Use no extension. Use 50' or less of 3/8" minimum air hose directly out of the compressor tank at at least 120PSI. If it wont twist off a grade8 1/2" bolt take it back. If it wont twist off a 5/8" consider taking it back.
larry

Good advice. An alternative is to mount a second receiver (tank) at the remote location with a big, short line going to the gun. Any regulator must be upstream of the remote receiver. What makes air nailers so fast and powerful is the tank built into the head of every nailer.

Quick-connects are also a huge source of restriction. Euro-style quick-connects flow better. Also any female quick-connect can be opened up by unscrewing the halves and removing the check valve. You'll then need a manual ball valve in the system to allow you to disconnect safely.

Most twin-hammer guns are pretty good and more frugal with air than the cheapies.

 

[crazyal]

so im curious too should i go pipe or rapid air system.Ilike KEVIN JS pipe system,[probably only take me 100 trips to the hardware store]and am willing to go that route if its the best .Kevin is that 3/4 pipe?so lets poll who thinks i should pipe it ,who thinks rapid air would be as good?
ALAN

The problem with steel pipe is unless you have a friend with a pipe threader the costs can add up quickly. Fine if you are only going to run one line with very few bends and your not picky about how accurate you are but once you start running several drops it can get pricey. Secondly make sure you use malleable fittings.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Have you drained condensed water from your compressor tank lately? I see you have it up out of the way. Easy to forget. Over time they fill up.
Also, good mention of air QCs. Some do not flow well. An impact wrench is a heavy air user. Many mfgs use average air use numbers making you think not. Think 10CFM at least.
larry

 

[Bird]

With all this talk of impacts, I just ordered a IR2130 to replace my Campbell Housefield pos. I can't seem to find out if that model requires the grease gun. Does anyone know if the IR2130 uses a grease nipple or tool oil? Are the grease guns to fit IR something unique? I assume they are a smaller nipple then standard.

I think you'll find the IR2130 has the grease fitting on the side of the impact housing. Remember, it's not what most people think of an a grease fitting. It's a small dimple with a tiny ball bearing in it. And you need a needle nosed grease gun. You can buy such guns, or you can buy a needle nose adapter for a regular grease gun. You have to press the needle nose into that dimple which will push the little ball bearing inward and allow grease to go in. Of course a new impact wrench will come with grease in it and may not need any for quite some time.

 

[tsteahr]

I think you'll find the IR2130 has the grease fitting on the side of the impact housing. Remember, it's not what most people think of an a grease fitting. It's a small dimple with a tiny ball bearing in it. And you need a needle nosed grease gun. You can buy such guns, or you can buy a needle nose adapter for a regular grease gun. You have to press the needle nose into that dimple which will push the little ball bearing inward and allow grease to go in. Of course a new impact wrench will come with grease in it and may not need any for quite some time.

Very good. Thank you for the info. I'll keep an eye out for a needle nose in my travels.

Good point about about needing lube right away. With my occasional use it will probably be years before it needs a relube. Now that I think about it, I may have such an animal kicking around here. I don't think I ever knew what it was :ashamed:. Time to start digging in my stash.

 

[Ford tractor]

CP734

I have that one and its "ok". Chicago Pneumatic CP7750 is 2x the wrench.

 

[tommaple]

I agree with the consensus that a larger and shorter supply line should solve your problem.

The point that was brought up on iron pipe getting costly if you don't have a pipe threader is well taken. They are also prone to leaks and rust forming in the pipe. Many people prefer copper air lines. Copper is easier to cut, sweating joints is easier than cutting threads and is more likely to be air tight. It also won't rust.

If you look at copper just be sure to get the right type. Copper comes in K, L and M types as well as hard and soft. The best for air lines is the hard L copper. It can handle the pressure better than M or soft types.

As was already mentioned, NEVER use PVC or CPVC for air lines, even though they have what seems to be a high pressure rating.

Good luck.

 

[Bear Foot Farm]

I have that one and its "ok". Chicago Pneumatic CP7750 is 2x the wrench.

It should be , since it's 3 X the COST
LOL

 

[KWentling]

Your air supply is probably your problem, but I also had a brand new IR 2131 that would only put out maybe 200 ft/lb. It was weaker than my 25 year old worn out Snap-On it was supposed to replace. I now have a Mac that puts out 650 in reverse. I rarely get the 3/4 impact out now.

Ditto on the PVC. I've seen the results of that blowing up. Glad no one was in that bay.

Kim

 

[kevinj]

so im curious too should i go pipe or rapid air system.Ilike KEVIN JS pipe system,[probably only take me 100 trips to the hardware store]and am willing to go that route if its the best .Kevin is that 3/4 pipe?so lets poll who thinks i should pipe it ,who thinks rapid air would be as good?
ALAN

Mine is 1/2" but no run is over 50'. You have a long run so I would start out with 3/4" and keep the 1/2" in the 50' range.

No trips to the hardware if you have threader

 

[IXLR8]

Alan,
I am getting ready to run 3/4" copper tubing for the air lines in my 30x30 shop. It is a little expensive... but it is easy to do, and importantly, easy to change if I find I want a different layout. I know I am not going to get it perfect the first time.
Pipe will work and most Lowes/HomeDepots will cut/thread the pipe if you only have a few changes to make. Although they often don't do the best job. I use both teflon tape and pipe dope to seal the threads, especially when L/HD cut the threads. A bit of overkill... but I have not had a fitting leak yet.

 

[escavader]

AT HOMEDEPOT tonight; a 10 length of 3/4 about 11 bucks .COPPER WAS 24
Let me ask you guys this ,ill put this togeather with fittings when possible,but when i need a short peice WHY CANT I WELD IT TOGEATHER WITH MY MIG to save fitting and or threading costs? If i need an elbow ,why cant i heat it up with my rosebud and bend it?Less chance for leaks ,better flow etc im thinking.
One thing i noticed at HD looking at hose,the biggest they had was 3/8,THEY DIDNT EVEN HAVE A SPOT FOR 1/2
alan