Remotes for Grapple Use

[nickel plate]

Just don't wrap the long hoses around your neck and I think you'll do just fine.

You have probably already thought it through but you do need to be careful routing the hoses from the rear remote up to the grapple. I suppose there are alternatives but this is what I did: from rear remote down and over the left rear axle, under the operator station (lots of zipties to keep the hose tight against the bottom so they don't snag anything), then up the left FEL post and forward along the left loader arm to the torque tube. If you are neat you will weld a mount for the hose/fitting on the torque tube. If you are a slob like me you will use zipties to hold the hose to the torque tube.

I used a lawn hose to do a dry run to make sure I left enough for gentle bends without having too much extra hose. Once you have that measurement you just need the fittings and couplers and you're RTR.

Island,
I realize this might be a resurrection of this thread-so be it. When you (or others) rout the hydraulic hoses from the rear remotes and you are now at the FEL post and your tractor has a FEL disconnect feature, do your hoses break there too? Not that a lot of us will ever remove the FEL but what if you ever need to?

kennyd,
Your posted photos of the FEL/grapple plumbing on your JD are how we all would want ours to look like! You are truly a mechanical surgeon. Now don't tell us that some tractor shop did that for you-unless it's your tractor shop.:thumbsup:

 

[srs]

When you (or others) rout the hydraulic hoses from the rear remotes and you are now at the FEL post and your tractor has a FEL disconnect feature, do your hoses break there too? Not that a lot of us will ever remove the FEL but what if you ever need to?

Here is how I made the break at the loader. NOTE: Only showing one disconnect as I was waiting for the second one as it was backordered.

 

[nickel plate]

Here is how I made the break at the loader. NOTE: Only showing one disconnect as I was waiting for the second one as it was backordered.

Nice job srs, I see a hex nut that appears to be locking down the QC on the bracket. Does that allow the QC to go through a larger hole and then nut down? Silly me-I thought that maybe I would have to take the bracket to the hydraulic shop so they could thread it on before swedging???
When detached, do you have plastic caps covering the connector-I don't see one.

 

[J_J]

It looks like this. Bolt it to the mounting plate, and screw on the QD, and attach the JIC hose.

Male Pipe (NPTF) x SAE 37? Flare (JIC) Bulkhead

 

[nickel plate]

It looks like this. Bolt it to the mounting plate, and screw on the QD, and attach the JIC hose.

Male Pipe (NPTF) x SAE 37? Flare (JIC) Bulkhead

Thanks J J, now I get it.

 

[kennyd]

kennyd,
Your posted photos of the FEL/grapple plumbing on your JD are how we all would want ours to look like! You are truly a mechanical surgeon. Now don't tell us that some tractor shop did that for you-unless it's your tractor shop.:thumbsup:

Thank you very much NP I assure you it's all my handiwork!

 

[srs]

Nice job srs, I see a hex nut that appears to be locking down the QC on the bracket. Does that allow the QC to go through a larger hole and then nut down? Silly me-I thought that maybe I would have to take the bracket to the hydraulic shop so they could thread it on before swedging???
When detached, do you have plastic caps covering the connector-I don't see one.

NP, just like J_J said and I do have the plastic caps now installed but not shown in the pics.

 

[IslandTractor]

Island,
I realize this might be a resurrection of this thread-so be it. When you (or others) rout the hydraulic hoses from the rear remotes and you are now at the FEL post and your tractor has a FEL disconnect feature, do your hoses break there too? Not that a lot of us will ever remove the FEL but what if you ever need to?

I would say it depends on whether you intend to remove your FEL more than once a season or so. If removing the FEL is a more common task then you can easily break the line right at the FEL support post and have a set of quick connects there. The downside of doing that is the cost of four quick connects and four extra hose fittings as well as a rather bulky collection of these things on your support post. Been there done that. I'd guess it costs $75-100 extra for this option.

The alternative for a one piece hose if you need to remove the FEL is to just remove the whole line by clipping the zipties under the tractor and storing the hoses with the FEL when it is not attached. That is what I would do next time if I were to use the rear remotes to control the grapple/4n1 etc.

 

[foggy1111]

Island,
I realize this might be a resurrection of this thread-so be it. When you (or others) rout the hydraulic hoses from the rear remotes and you are now at the FEL post and your tractor has a FEL disconnect feature, do your hoses break there too? Not that a lot of us will ever remove the FEL but what if you ever need to?
___________________________________________________________

My 3320 has the JD set up for hard-lines and hoses from the rear remotes to the front to run a grapple (or other front-end hydraulics). JD does break the hoses with qc's right at the loader mast....so that you can easily remove the loader.

BUT.....one other nice feature to this spot for a quick coupler: When adding my stump grinder I used the loader's joystick valve (all 4 ports) to run the two cylinders on the grinder (sweep and lift). I then plugged the loader's lift cylinders into the 3rd function lines for temporary duty. This allows me to "plant" the front of my tractor during grinder operations. Being all the QC's were similarly located....it was all plug and play. :thumbsup:

 

[workinallthetime]

foggy- can you take a pic of the lines at the rear? im trying to figure out if i can install a "t" in the lines that feed my back hoe to run my grapple since i wont be using them at the same time but dont want to have to connect and disconnect everytime i want to use one

 

[J_J]

foggy- can you take a pic of the lines at the rear? im trying to figure out if i can install a "t" in the lines that feed my back hoe to run my grapple since i wont be using them at the same time but dont want to have to connect and disconnect everytime i want to use one

Just install a solenoid selector valve in the curl circuit. In the off position, the curl circuit works normally. To use grapple, 12v applied to the solenoids, and allows the grapple to divert fluid to the grapple cyl as long as the switch is on.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7738-A&catname=hydraulic

Select Instructions to see diagram of hook up.

 

[IslandTractor]

foggy- can you take a pic of the lines at the rear? im trying to figure out if i can install a "t" in the lines that feed my back hoe to run my grapple since i wont be using them at the same time but dont want to have to connect and disconnect everytime i want to use one

As JJ points out, you can do that with a solonoid driven diverter however for the same price you could also install an extra set of rear remotes. That would give you more flexibility to use other stuff like TNT.

I'm wondering if you are having trouble just changing the lines over with the BH though. I had such a set up for for a few years and only found it problematic when I was doing tasks that involved switching back and forth from BH to grapple. If you don't use them together then it is only a two minute (max) operation to switch the lines.

 

[workinallthetime]

As JJ points out, you can do that with a solonoid driven diverter however for the same price you could also install an extra set of rear remotes. That would give you more flexibility to use other stuff like TNT.

I'm wondering if you are having trouble just changing the lines over with the BH though. I had such a set up for for a few years and only found it problematic when I was doing tasks that involved switching back and forth from BH to grapple. If you don't use them together then it is only a two minute (max) operation to switch the lines.

I know very little about hydro. and how it works. I guess in my mind using the ports in the rear of the tractor that feed the backhoe would be a great place to "T" in if thats possible and run a grapple ot anything else i might want to run down the road like a loader mounted auger.

So tell me more or shoot me a pic of the rear remote set up you have. If you have a link to where i can purchase the rear remote set up that would be great.
thanks man

 

[kennyd]

I know very little about hydro. and how it works. I guess in my mind using the ports in the rear of the tractor that feed the backhoe would be a great place to "T" in if thats possible and run a grapple ot anything else i might want to run down the road like a loader mounted auger.

So tell me more or shoot me a pic of the rear remote set up you have. If you have a link to where i can purchase the rear remote set up that would be great.
thanks man

You cannot "Tee" into high pressure hydraulic lines-it won't work. search the term "Power Beyond" in this forum for hours of reading.

 

[IslandTractor]

I know very little about hydro. and how it works. I guess in my mind using the ports in the rear of the tractor that feed the backhoe would be a great place to "T" in if thats possible and run a grapple ot anything else i might want to run down the road like a loader mounted auger.

So tell me more or shoot me a pic of the rear remote set up you have. If you have a link to where i can purchase the rear remote set up that would be great.
thanks man

The first thing you might want to do is to simply ask your dealer. I would guesstimate that a Kubota dealer would charge a few hours labor and maybe $500 for parts. That would cost more than doing what JJ suggested because of the dealer labor but if you are willing to tackle a diverter valve then doing the rear remote yourself shouldn't be any more complex (different but not complex). I haven't done it myself but a number of guys on the Kioti site have purchased the Kioti kit for about $350 and installed it themselves in an afternoon. It basically requires taking off things like seat and some access panels and probably one of the rear wheels then adding the second remote kit to the existing remote set up. Not a trivial task but something that doesn't require a degree in diesel engineering either. I suggest you search the archives on the subject and you will find at least a few pretty well documented descriptions of the project. Get the price of the Kubota kit from your dealer or from a TBN active dealer like Messicks.

 

[wawilkie]

Went by Trac. Supply this eve and picked up two 1/2" by 196" hoses @ $38 apiece,two 1/2" male ends @ $7 apiece and one 2 way coupler @ $20. Took about a hour to get everything hooked up and zip-tied. I'll do a neater job when I have time but today I just had to get it together and try it out. Played about a hour before it got too dark... now I don't want to leave it to go to work tomorrow