Snow Size of 3pt blower

   / Size of 3pt blower #1  

Scaper

Silver Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2001
Messages
193
Location
I live in the state of Delaware in New Castle Coun
Tractor
New Holland 1030
First off, Happy Holidays to all!!! I have a BX 2200 and I'm getting ready to purchase a new rear snow blower. I am wondering if anyone knows the limit for this machine. I was set on a 50 " but thought about a 60" because of wanting a new tractor this year for the business. Does anyone know if the BX 2200 will run a 60" without a problem? I know I would have to go slow either way so that is not an issue. Feedback from users will be very helpful. I'm looking at the Rad Industries model they seem to be very well built from what I've read.
Scaper
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #2  
I had a 54" blower on the BX2200, it handled it well. I think 60" maybe a little too big for a BX. Then again if you go slow enough you can put anything on.:D , BUT do you really want to go slow all the time??
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #3  
Personally I would stick with a 48" - 51" blower for your 2200. There are many manufacturers out there that make those sizes. One other thing to consider when buying a blower for a smaller tractor is not whether you can go slow enough to run a 60" or larger blower, but you have to take into consideration the shear weight of the blower. Make sure you check the lift capacity of your 3pt hitch, and remember the farther back from the lift pins, the less your tractor can lift. Some of the better manufactures of snow blowers use heavy gage iron and that adds quickly to the weight. You want a blower that you can safely lift without worrying about he front end of your tractor becoming to light. Also remember that you 2200 has a limited cat 1 hitch, so the height of which you can lift the blower will also be limited. It would be ideal to find one that is specifically designed for a sub-compact tractor.
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #4  
First off, Happy Holidays to all!!! I have a BX 2200 and I'm getting ready to purchase a new rear snow blower. I am wondering if anyone knows the limit for this machine. I was set on a 50 " but thought about a 60" because of wanting a new tractor this year for the business. Does anyone know if the BX 2200 will run a 60" without a problem? I know I would have to go slow either way so that is not an issue. Feedback from users will be very helpful. I'm looking at the RAD Industries model they seem to be very well built from what I've read.
Scaper




FIRST and foremost you must realise that snow loads will wiegh 21 pounds per cubic foot and will wiegh much more when snow is drifted heavily and undergoes compression from snow layering and freeze thaw cycles during the day to night to day periods of accumulation


Second the ability of obtaining parts for the snow blower is paramount for a commercial enterprise.

All bearings are metric and this is how they are sized.

All V belts are metric and this is how they are sized.

A snow blower that is assembled using a flat rear panel using the Pronovost Puma as an example will be less troublesome from plugging and jamming of ice and snow as the open auger is exposed from the top and essentially sucks down any accumulation into the impeller housing.

(This feed rate could be improved signifigantly if a solid auger drum was employed with narrow hieght auger flighting)

The purchase of a more expensive blower is justified simply because the contruction is heavier and will not be affected by forces generated by the impellers rotation and vibration created by the act of snow removal.

You have to keep in mind snow removal is done in tonnage not snow depth.



The slower you progress with a two stage snow blower during the initial pass
the further and faster the snow will be cast out of the way.

In deeper accumulations you can take half bites and move a bit faster and not have to go back and clean up as much.


A rear mounted snow blower should have a fully enclosed auger housing to avoid the possiblity of the edges of the blower flexing up and down creating side stresses on the end bearings and allowing the cross auger halves from becoming separated/walking from the end bearings over time.


You want a box totally surrounding the auger to maintain the integrity of the welds and steel sheet framing the augers hopper.

The open auger design of the typical 2 stage snow blower
(Which I absolutely hate) floods the the impeller no matter the snow type wet, heavy or powdery drifted compacted snow.

Most manufactures have reduced this issue by partially enclosing the impeller drum with a small piece of sheet steel to reduce the amount of snow being spilled out of the impeller as the snow is being cast out of the impeller.


It all depends on your wallet as far as branding goes;

The Canadian RAD brand is used by Kubota, John Deere, Frontier, New Holland and others as they are a major subcontractor for these and other brands of mowers.

Allied, Buhler, Farm King, Meteor, Lucknow, Econor and others are also in the business of snow blowers.

I personally like the Pronovost line of 2 stage snow blowers and the quality is excellent from my first hand examination of them and the quality is the same from the smallest snow blower to thier largest three pount mounted industrial model for municipal and high snow fall areas and the farm equipment they build and sell.

The Pronovost PUMA will be of a greater first cost in purchasing to you but the machines design has heavy sheet steel skin and full welds in its construction and fully enclosed auger/hopper and the cross auger bearings are greasable ball bearings and easy to reach.

If you have dual remotes you can order the Pronovost Puma with hydraulic rotation and chute elevation cylinders or you can simply order it with manual crank rotation for the chute control and a manually positioned spout angle locking pin.

The Pronovost Puma unit will allow you to upgrade to the hydraulic functions at a later date if desired if you purchase a tractor with dual remotes later on which is something that should be standard equipment in my opinion anyway with any sub compact or compact tractor and limits the end users ability to use it without incurring additional expense by adding these features later.

I will freely say that you should purchase one of clarences impeller kits for thirty dollars with which it will increase the snow blowers ability to cast snow further and faster and nearly eliminate plugging of the impeller as the rubber paddles clear the impeller of snow at each rotation and nearly eliminates the build up of ice in the impeller housing.

The snow blower impeller creates a huge amount heat as it is spinning and
creating friction by lifting and casting the snow to be removed and the impeller kit will reduce any build up to a minimum for the end user.

No matter which brand of snow blower you choose it will be aided by the installation of a pair of pnuematic casters to aid in turning the snow blower while operating to avoid the digging in of the corners of the snow blower in dirt, stone or soft (junk) asphault.


Lastly the another option is the motorised Bercomac snow blower for ATV's and UTV's as it is self contained and is a two stage snow blower which has a high horse power air cooled engine used to provide power to the snow blower.
As the snow blower has its own power unit it does not rob the tractor of any useable power from the BX2200 P.T.O.

A hitch adapter and or winch mount would have to fabricated for the Bercomac unit to use the three point hitch but the Kubota UTV Winch is used currently on the Kubota RTV's.

The only tractor energy used for the Bercomac is the power used to move it by the BX2200 allowing you to have a steady reverse or forward speed at lower throttle settings.

The Bercomac has lower ground clearance than a typical three point hitch mounted blower.

A front mounted Kubota snowblower will have the same clearance issues and is worse as the front mounted blower if you can find one has to have its own frame kit under the tractor which is attached to the rear mounts for the mower deck or a second mounting point on the rear drawbar.


You should have your rear tires loaded and purchase a good set of tire chains specifically sized for your BX 2200 tires as well as a four wheel drive tractor WILL GET STUCK.

The use of "Rim Guard" or straight windshield washer fluid will prevent the rear tire rims from being damaged by rust and corrosion as the case with calcium loaded tires that have tubes or are loaded as tubeless rear tires.

You should invest in a supply of fluid film to coat the interior of the snow blower to aid in its ability to shed snow and act as a rust prventative as well;
and spraying the impeller housing keeps the snow really flying whether you have a single stage or two stage snow blower.

The thing is your snow blower if properly cared for will outlast every tractor you put it on as it is a seasonal use implement and the 540 RPM drive system is an industry standard.

The more you spend up front on an implement gets you a stronger implement and you will have fewer and fewer problems as long as you take care of it.


When one looks at a purchase of an implement like this several things must be examined at once.


The power delivered is the same no matter the width of the snow blower.
The loading of snow against the cross auger and impeller is what affects the operation of the snow blower.

The two stage snow blower costs the builder less to make than a single stage snow blower as it uses less steel to build it.

A single stage snow blower requires more steel to create a hollow tube with narrow width auger flighting to carry the snow quickly to the center and throw it out of the chute quickly to dispose of it.

The typical front mount single stage snow blower uses or used a one to one bevel gear drive driven by a pair of V belt pulleys off the engine crankshaft and this creates a huge speed of rotation which is very effective for heavy snows which are not melting.

No one makes a small single stage auger or propeller type snow blower in the United States for a three point hitch mounting system currently to my knowledge.

The impeller operates at 540 R.P.M. and the cross auger is operated by the worm gear driven bevel gear by the chain drive onn a rear or front mount snow blower with the front mounted PTO driven blowers taking power from the Mid Drive PTO and using V belt drive reduction and a reversing gear box.
 
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   / Size of 3pt blower
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Wow Leonz, Great reply thank you for your imput the same goes to all others. I stated RAD and that was a mistake. I'm looking at another unit from Canada named Braber from the western area of Canada. They seem to be very heavy duty and well made. I do like the Pronovost and Farm King models as well as the Puma. I will continue to look for response from the board. Maybe some BX2200 users will reply with what they use and how they work for them. Scaper
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #6  
   / Size of 3pt blower #7  
The Puma frame size is the smallest in the Pronovost Snow blowers line up that they offer for the consumer.

The thing is "parts" and "how quickly you can obtain them"; If you purchase a Pronovost Snow Blower through Tudor and Jones in Weedsport, NY who is the Pronovost Stocking Distributor for the northeastern United States you can get parts overnight if needed if you do not keep a gearbox spare in inventory as they can be rebuilt.

About parts:

and for any brand in general;


A box of roller chain-10 feet preferably with continous master link lacing-
master links and repair links
The purchased replacement cotter pins should be longer than normal so you can use one cotter key to repair the link- and still use the long ones for each hole as they will be easier to install them in the dark too

Purchase a Roller Chain Stretcher and Roller Chain Breaker for the chain size- believe me you will need it.

NO- needle nose vice grips do not work for stretching and splicing chain.

Long needle nose pliers specifically for the snow blower to install and remove the cotter keys.


If the fifty or sixty size chain cannot be ordered purchased with continuos master link lacing the splicing and breaking tools will be a must have and should be in your tool box.



The cotter keyed roller chain-it will cost more but it will be easier to fix in the dark when its broken.

The spare roller chain and correct shear pins/shear bolts are a must have for you.

The roller chain cannot be measured by length when a repair or replacement is needed the chain pitches must be counted to assure the proper length of roller chain.

If the rollers are sloppy at all change the chain entirely
as the rollers are the wear part and the sprokets have little to no wear
on them in this application. Buy a new box of chain so you have it in inventory.


The chain has to be taunt on the top of the sprockets from end to end and have 1/6 to 1/8 inch of slack on the bottom of the chain loop as the chain travels in one direction only.


I hope I have helped you with regard to your decision.

Edit: I forgot to mention that a wheel spinner/suicide knob is a must have as you can simply use the spinner to turn the tractor as the spinner will be in the direction you turn if it is installed at the 6 o'clock position.


and a pair of mirrors if you do not have a cab for your BX2200

And please by all means support ken sweet as he is a sponsor of the forum in good standing with a snow blower purchase
 
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   / Size of 3pt blower #8  
We sell the 50 inch Buhler/Farmking 50 inch for the BX22's. 60 is a little much. Our 50 inch is in stock again at $1995 and the 60 inch at $2195. Ken Sweet
 

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   / Size of 3pt blower #9  
I do not wish to contradict any of previous posts,most of these people have much more experience that I do. Having said that the unit pictured below is every thing I hoped it would be. It is a 03 BX 2200 with a 60 in. Buhler/allied blower. In the 20 hours I have put on this unit I have found that I have more than adequate power,and enough width that the snow does not fall between the blower and the wheels.

IMG_0748.jpg


Dan
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #10  
I do not wish to contradict any of previous posts,most of these people have much more experience that I do. Having said that the unit pictured below is every thing I hoped it would be. It is a 03 BX 2200 with a 60 in. Buhler/allied blower. In the 20 hours I have put on this unit I have found that I have more than adequate power,and enough width that the snow does not fall between the blower and the wheels.

IMG_0748.jpg


Dan

Dan, I am sizing according to the spec sheet on Buhler/Farmking. I am sure they state HP required on the conservative side. The book says 50 inch 15-30 HP---60 inch says 20-40 HP. Ken Sweet
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #11  
First off, Thanks Leonz for a stunning flood of useful opinion.

I'm slightly confused by a couple of the things you said though - are you talking about two different things?

A snow blower that is assembled using a flat rear panel using the Pronovost Puma as an example will be less troublesome from plugging and jamming of ice and snow as the open auger is exposed from the top and essentially sucks down any accumulation into the impeller housing.

The open auger design of the typical 2 stage snow blower
(Which I absolutely hate) floods the the impeller no matter the snow type wet, heavy or powdery drifted compacted snow.

From what I understand, you're saying that for reasons of stiffness and maintaining bearing integrity, its good to have an Enclosed auger, but at the same time, It's good to have it open to allow snow to drop into the impeller.

I'm curious as to how you see the Lorenz blowers: I'm aiming to make a rear-mounted blower for next year, and rather like their layout - have you got any insight into the use of paddles instead of an auger?:confused:

Thanks again! :thumbsup:

/Nick

A paddled Lorenz Blower...
530a.jpg
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #12  
I almost bought a 60 for my Bx ,but when i figured out the #of passes doing my drive with a 60 or a 54 there was no difference,it was gonna take 3 passes either way. I have a 13 ft wide driveway ,its gonna take 3 passes anyway you look at it,A 60 inch is was gonna cost more also
My PUMA 54 is just right ,i think with a wider one its doable but id have to have more weight up front ,in addition to my FEL.Im pretty positive id had to have bought some suitcase weights or make something to keep the front down
Get one wider than your footprint,un fourtunately there are no standard sizing out there.METEORS and pronovost for example run different in widths, a 50 inch is only 2 inches wider than my tires,and id be driving in the un moved snow on corners etc.Iam glad i got the 54 it seems just right to me
ALAN
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #13  
I had a 54" blower on the BX2200, it handled it well. I think 60" maybe a little too big for a BX. Then again if you go slow enough you can put anything on.:D , BUT do you really want to go slow all the time??

NY_Yankee is right, the 60" is going to be a bit big. You really want to stay with something that is as close to the actual width of your tractor as possible. The 54" seems to be the sweet spot and the size I'm looking to add to the tractor.
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #15  
First off, Thanks Leonz for a stunning flood of useful opinion.

"I'm slightly confused by a couple of the things you said though - are you talking about two different things?"


Yes- two different dimensions-for a narrow throated 2 stage blower with a roof over the auger so to speak and a braced and welded three sided box with a narrow uppewr shelf for added strength and a base plate with a cutting edge.


"From what I understand, you're saying that for reasons of stiffness and maintaining bearing integrity, its good to have an Enclosed auger, but at the same time, It's good to have it open to allow snow to drop into the impeller."




Full length welds are your friends.

Properly positioned bracing avoids problems from twisting and racking and reduces stress from impeller rotation at full RPM.


With the top partially exposed the snow cannot fall over the roof line of the auger enclosure if it is deep as the open auger breaks it up and pushes it to the center as the tractor advances.


I'm curious as to how you see the Lorenz blowers: I'm aiming to make a rear-mounted blower for next year, and rather like their layout - have you got any insight into the use of paddles instead of an auger?:confused:


It costs less to make thats all that amounts to, and the paddles simply break it up and the lower smaller half auger moves the snow to the impeller.

Any two stage snow blower is nothing more than a scoop with three or four sides and a fan that has an engine, transmission and drive wheels, or is moved by a prime mover and powered by the same prime mover.

Dont get me wrong it takes a lot to make a snow blower especially the small ones as they have to put all the parts in a very small square inch area.

A gear driven snow blower like the Yamahas or the BCS and Grillo Berta single and two stage units has no slippage and the power delivered is huge which creates high impeller torque and rotation speed


Thanks again! :thumbsup:

/Nick

A paddled Lorenz Blower...
530a.jpg




If you copy the Lorenz design dont be surprised
if you are visited by the legal eagles at Lorenz
and be sued for patent infringement unfortunately.

Or hide it in the barn and use it only in the middle of the night
when their is no moon nor any witnesses to said operation.


:(
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #16  
First off, Thanks Leonz for a stunning flood of useful opinion.

I'm slightly confused by a couple of the things you said though - are you talking about two different things?





From what I understand, you're saying that for reasons of stiffness and maintaining bearing integrity, its good to have an Enclosed auger, but at the same time, It's good to have it open to allow snow to drop into the impeller.

I'm curious as to how you see the Lorenz blowers: I'm aiming to make a rear-mounted blower for next year, and rather like their layout - have you got any insight into the use of paddles instead of an auger?:confused:

Thanks again! :thumbsup:

/Nick

A paddled Lorenz Blower...

I thin it's in the attachment section but somebody just widened a blower. For the augers they just had a local steel (or maybe it was ductwork) shop cut rings and then with a simple split he turned them into part of the auger. It sounded like it was cheap. Or I know there are a couple of people here who have a CNC plasma cutter that may do it for a good price.
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #17  
From what I have been told the shaft driven is better way to transfer power to the plower. Also their is concern about bending the loader arm. (To me this is bopguse if you take your time you will be OK.)

Does and one have real world experancI have a 3050 with a loder with a quick connect. I am in the process of looking for a front mounted show blower. As I see it I have 2 options. 1) Shaft driven OEM kubota or direct for the kubota subcontractor who make it. 2) I could do a front end loader hydrolic powered unit.

e with each type to comment on performance.
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #18  
I have a 48" luck now on my bx 2200 and that is all I would ever want built heavy and manages it well any bigger and I'd be crawling IMO
 

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   / Size of 3pt blower #19  
If you copy the Lorenz design dont be surprised
if you are visited by the legal eagles at Lorenz
and be sued for patent infringement unfortunately.

Or hide it in the barn and use it only in the middle of the night
when their is no moon nor any witnesses to said operation.

Man... are you guys scared of Lawyers!! :confused2:

1. I'm Not going to "Copy the Lorenz design" (There are many points I think could be improved) ... but thanks for the vote of confidence. ;)

2. Patent infringement is a bugger to prove, and as I'm a private individual making 1 blower for my own use (no profit), Lorenz probably wouldn't even sniff in the direction of Sweden even IF I were to make a visually identical copy. (Which I'm not going to do anyway)

My blower's going to end up with an impeller and augers.... like ALL 2 stage machinery... The only question is, "Paddles or spiral-augers?" Lorenz are neither the only ones to use paddles, nor the only ones to use a pair of augers instead of one. :thumbsup:


So Back to my original Question....

I was just wondering if you (or anyone) had an opinion or experience of the paddle design instead of spirals: I see the cutting of rings as a waste of material: (unless you cut 120 degree arcs and then weld them together), and Given that I have unlimited access to an abrasive water-jet at work, and am one of 2 people who know how to make the programs for it, the cost of getting someone else to cut rings isn't something that'll ever bother me: it's only a question of function :)

If for example it turns out that you guys reckon spirals are WAY better than paddles, (I get the feeling they "sweep" the ground better) I'll obviously be going for spirals! :)

I've also been thinking that the paddles might not be as good at turning the packed snow into blowable powder, whereas toothed spirals probably break it all up a lot better.:confused:


There's another question
I have though... (sorry if this is turning into a thread hijack) ... I see a lot of videos of blowers that *do* get bogged down... is it possible that a blower could benefit from having a less speedy auger? Would that help to ensure that you never overfed the impeller, or would it turn into a hindrance when you're only dealing with a light snowfall?

Hope this helps to clarify that I'm not simply a copy-cat... There are a few patents out there with my name on, and a few more applications waiting to be filed (my company likes to protect it's designs) ... so there's are few things that irk me more than a simple copy/paste approach to design!!

All the best,

/Nick :)


EDIT!!! I now realise that you DID answer with Paddle info... I had just missed it because it appeared in the quote itself. Thanks again! :D
 
   / Size of 3pt blower #20  
I went back and forth between a 50" and 60" rear blower for my BX2350. I ended up with the 60" and am glad I did. I have some good drop offs near the edges of some parts of the driveway and the extra width keeps me a little farther away. Also, even with the wider unit, I still end up running over unblown snow with the front tires when making steering corrections.

FWIW, I also have chains on all tires due to a 10% grade in part of the driveway.
 

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