3 point hitch log lift

[hockeypuck]

Has anyone build a log lifter for a tractor. I do not want to move the logs, just lift them up to make cutting them with a chain saw easier. I did not find any recent threads on this, but if anyone has any ideas for making wood cutting easier, it would be appreciated.

Puck

 

[jwnge]

We lift one end, put a small piece of wood for a fulcrum under that end and push down with the front end loader on the short end, It lifts the log so you can saw the whole thing. works great.. John

 

[krue]

I can think of two ways to do it, use a shackle to hang a set of logging tongs off a drawbar or use a set of forks.

 

[Timber]

I use forks on my loader, I just lift the tree and cut from both ends

 

[dirtrod]

I built a log skidder attachment for my 3 point and can use it to lift for cutting. I just back up to the log at right angles and use a chain or tongs to grab the log and raise the 3 point to lift to lift the log.
I also have built a timber jack which is much handier to use on smaller/lighter sections.

 

[ToadHill]

I just lift one end with the bucket and cut most of the way thru with the chainsaw, drop the log. roll it over with the bucket and finish the cut, roll the pieces into the bucket and take to the splitter.

 

[Egon]

Use the tractor bucket with forks. You can keep the log at a comfortable height.

If the log is too heavy saw part way through and then roll over with the bucket.

Picture of simple ugly forks attached. Note the two top prongs to keep the log from comming back to sit in your lap.

 

[Baby Grand]

Appologies about dredging this old thread up. I am doing due dilligence before converting a HF QH into a TPH skidder and saw Egon's photo. Are those truck springs? I like that idea.
-Jim

 

[LD1]

Appologies about dredging this old thread up. I am doing due dilligence before converting a HF QH into a TPH skidder and saw Egon's photo. Are those truck springs? I like that idea.
-Jim

I did something very similar allthough I used 2" heavy wall tube for the forks. About 2' long. Works great for lifting the logs.

I Had some angle iron when laid in the corner of the bucket was the perfect inside dimensions for standard 2" tubing. Allthough you could also use actual hitch tubing if you wanted.

I drilled and tapped a hole at the very back of the fork and put a bolt in to keep them from falling out and it doesnt put any stress on a crosspin.

I chose the very corners of the bucket for strength. That way I am not just welded to the bottom lip, but rather the side plate as well. One of the best parts is if you use the 2" tube like this, you can put you reciever inserts in as well for moving trailers. I have also made two short "stub" forks that dont extend beyone the bucket edge. I got tired of digging all the dirt out when I wanted to put the forks on.

And another benifit I found out is, when cutting wood, I can get a log in the air that is about double what I can actually lift. Once under the log, plat the heel of the bucket into the gound and rollback. Most loaders have more breakout/curl force than lift force. By planting the heel, you arent putting any added weight on the front end, and the geometry of the bucket and curl back angle allows you to get a log a good 10" off the ground.

 

[blueone]

The first one I made was for the 3 point[last pic] and used a pair of tongs to pickup the log. This worked great if you had two people to balance and cut. Now I have a tractor with a QA loader so I made a 2" receiver and bolted it to a blank plate that I made for lifting logs and my snowplow. So now I use the 3" point for skidding and the plate for lifting, also sometimes I use my forks for cutting.

 

[pat32rf]

I tend to start at the top of the pile and cut what I can reach, then run the forks under the lower logs, lifting them up on top of the pieces already cut. When the pile gets too unwieldy I split what I can. I'm normally working alone and can take all summer to get my wood cut so its not a hi-speed arraingement, but it works for me.

 

[Baby Grand]

I did something very similar allthough I used 2" heavy wall tube for the forks. About 2' long. Works great for lifting the logs.

I Had some angle iron when laid in the corner of the bucket was the perfect inside dimensions for standard 2" tubing. Allthough you could also use actual hitch tubing if you wanted.

I drilled and tapped a hole at the very back of the fork and put a bolt in to keep them from falling out and it doesnt put any stress on a crosspin.

I chose the very corners of the bucket for strength. That way I am not just welded to the bottom lip, but rather the side plate as well. One of the best parts is if you use the 2" tube like this, you can put you reciever inserts in as well for moving trailers. I have also made two short "stub" forks that dont extend beyone the bucket edge. I got tired of digging all the dirt out when I wanted to put the forks on.

And another benifit I found out is, when cutting wood, I can get a log in the air that is about double what I can actually lift. Once under the log, plat the heel of the bucket into the gound and rollback. Most loaders have more breakout/curl force than lift force. By planting the heel, you arent putting any added weight on the front end, and the geometry of the bucket and curl back angle allows you to get a log a good 10" off the ground.

Clever-er yet! I like the plug tube idea to keep it clear when moving soil. I think I'll do something similar and rig some sort of guard on top of the bucket or uprights off the forks as Egon suggests to avoid any "log on me" shenanigans. Thanks for the ideas, guys.
-Jim

 

[Chilly807]

If you're looking to make a guard, it might as well be dual purpose. Mine was designed to be a snow screen originally, but I think it would work for this as well. It's angled up the back of the bucket, you'd really have to work at getting the log on top of you. I already have holes drilled in the reinforced bottom of the bucket for my winter skid shoes, I may make some short forks to bolt on there for firewood season. I really don't want to weld anything on the inside of the bucket.

Sean

 

[Baby Grand]

Sean,
Nice guard. It makes sense to have it separate from the forks for brush and deep snow handling. There have been a few times I almost rolled the top of a pile of soil onto myself. More options. Less decisions. Must think.
-Jim

 

[Chilly807]

Thanks Jim,

Now after seeing the latest bucket fork thread in the build-it-yourself forum I find myself needing more steel...

It'll keep 'til after the holidays, but I AM going to build a set of those.

I used 2 inch square tube with 1/8 wall, so it's plenty strong for what I use it for. Snow is normally light enough that a full normal bucketful doesn't weigh much, and I hate having it spill back over the top of the bucket when I'm pushing. 4 3/8 holes in the bucket and a couple of carriage bolts on both sides are all I used for attaching it.

Sean