GC2410 MF block heater problem

[DEWFPO]

MY GC wouldn't start this Morning, kept cranking until the Battery gave up. I jumped it, still no luck, checked the fuel filter, etc, no luck.

It was under 20 degrees but i thought she would start. Luckily this happened before our first snow.

Would a block heater help this situation? Are they easy to install?

Gio

An engine block heater would definitely help providing your fuel didn't gel. I don't know if your using an additive, I find it helps prevent fuel related issues in the winter.

Did you use any throttle at all while cranking it?

DEWFPO

 

[ray66v]

MY GC wouldn't start this Morning, kept cranking until the Battery gave up. I jumped it, still no luck, checked the fuel filter, etc, no luck.

It was under 20 degrees but i thought she would start. Luckily this happened before our first snow.

Would a block heater help this situation? Are they easy to install?

Gio

Yes, did you move the throttle, or leave it closed?

 

[Don87]

It was about 14 here when I started mine this morning, it started and shut off twice, but the third time it kept running.
I have no block heater, but did add Power Service to the fuel.
I had the throttle bumped up to about the 1200 range.

I think I need to let my glow plugs heat a little longer.

 

[ray66v]

I think I need to let my glow plugs heat a little longer.

I think your right.

30 seconds, or longer, may sometimes be necessary.

If you can't find the right throttle setting, just increase the throttle as you crank. Note the setting where it starts, set it there the next time.

Reduce the throttle to a high idle after it starts, and go find something else to do for a while. :thumbsup:

 

[Gio]

No, i didn't think to crank the throttle. Do Tractors "flood" like other small engines?

I am going to grab some additive tomorrow and see if that help. Last fuel I purchased was about a month ago so i assume that it wasn't winterized.

I really need to get this figured out quick, if this winter is like our last here in Nebraska I will be in a bit of trouble shoveling my 1/4 gravel drive by hand.

Can I install a block heater or is it more of a dealer thing?

 

[DEWFPO]

At 20F my GC2300 would only start if I hit the glow plugs for a min. of 30 seconds, preferably 45 seconds, then opened the throttle to about 1/4-1/3 while cranking and it would start in about 3 seconds, at which time I would back off the throttle to a lower, but smooth fast idle.

A block heater can be installed by you or the dealer, your choice.

DEWFPO

 

[irvingj]

The M-F block heater is expensive, but fit very well on mine. It's rather involved, but not too difficult-- do a search on installation of it.

The block heater definitely helps, but these M-F SCUTs do seem to require a good bit of glow plug pre-heat. Like others, I use at least 25-30 seconds; often a second application if it doesn't fire up quickly.

 

[ray66v]

No, i didn't think to crank the throttle.

It is not going to start at 20F the same way it starts at 70F.

The air is denser in cold weather. More air means you will have a leaner mixture. The way you compensate is to open the throttle, and increase the amount of fuel.

If you read this thread, and put it to practice, you will be fine.

You just need to find the combination for your conditions, and your tractor.

Next time your doing something, and it's clearly not working, stop doing it, and figure out what you can do differently.

 

[Gio]

Thanks everyone. Our first year in a rural location has been a constant learning experience. When we make it through the winter it will be a complete year and hopefully we will have a smoother run next year.

This forum has been a big help so thanks again.

 

[MF RED in MT]

MY GC wouldn't start this Morning, kept cranking until the Battery gave up. I jumped it, still no luck, checked the fuel filter, etc, no luck.

It was under 20 degrees but i thought she would start. Luckily this happened before our first snow.

Would a block heater help this situation? Are they easy to install?

Gio

Hey Gio, here is a link to a thread of mine regarding MF blockheaters, you can read through it or go to post #29 for the details of the installation.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-gc2410-coldest-weather-starting-problem.html

I hope this helps you out, :thumbsup:.
KC,

 

[irvingj]

Perhaps I don't need to mention this Gio, but here goes anyway:

Keep in mind, the block heater will help the engine start & get up to temp quickly, BUT the real issue is allowing the tractor to run long enough to warm up the hydraulic fluid.

That's the bugaboo... having the hydraulic fluid warm enough to circulate easily and do its job, under pressure. I don't believe the block heater has much, if any, effect on the hydraulic fluid temp --that's in the transmission at the rear of the tractor.

That's why I use my block heater, as others do, for only about 1/2 to 1 hour, just enough to help the engine start more easily. THEN let the tractor idle long enough to warm the hydraulic fluid by pumping it 'round & 'round.....

Your owner's manual should have a chart that tells the time the tractor should idle, according to temperature, to get the hydraulic fluid warm enough to do its job (without bursting hoses and/or fittings, or worse....). Bad things can happen if the hydraulic fluid isn't warm enough when you start to work it hard!

Maybe you already knew that, and if so, I apologize for going on & on.

 

[MF RED in MT]

+1 for Irving!
The biggest difference I have noticed since install the MF blockheater, is the little tractor starts just like it does in the summer and runs smooth from the start, :thumbsup:. Before installing the blockheater, it sounded like a few loose bolts were going throughout the engine, . The second biggest difference I have noticed since switching to synthetic fluids is the warm up time is shorter in the cold months of Montana, :thumbsup:. KC

 

[cdaigle430]

Perhaps I don't need to mention this Gio, but here goes anyway:

Keep in mind, the block heater will help the engine start & get up to temp quickly, BUT the real issue is allowing the tractor to run long enough to warm up the hydraulic fluid.

That's the bugaboo... having the hydraulic fluid warm enough to circulate easily and do its job, under pressure. I don't believe the block heater has much, if any, effect on the hydraulic fluid temp --that's in the transmission at the rear of the tractor.

That's why I use my block heater, as others do, for only about 1/2 to 1 hour, just enough to help the engine start more easily. THEN let the tractor idle long enough to warm the hydraulic fluid by pumping it 'round & 'round.....

Your owner's manual should have a chart that tells the time the tractor should idle, according to temperature, to get the hydraulic fluid warm enough to do its job (without bursting hoses and/or fittings, or worse....). Bad things can happen if the hydraulic fluid isn't warm enough when you start to work it hard!

Maybe you already knew that, and if so, I apologize for going on & on.

Hey, the chart is an excellent idea. Maybe someone can write one up and post it? I would like to have a print out of this hanging in the garage.

 

[rScotty]

+1 for Irving!
The biggest difference I have noticed since install the MF blockheater, is the little tractor starts just like it does in the summer and runs smooth from the start, . Before installing the blockheater, it sounded like a few loose bolts were going throughout the engine, . The second biggest difference I have noticed since switching to synthetic fluids is the warm up time is shorter in the cold months of Montana, . KC

I'd agree. The block heater heats the block, but not the hydraulic oil. Although my old Yanmar YM336d has a heater for the transmission oil too. 30 years ago I thought this was common but my new Kubota doesn't seem to have that feature.
rScotty

 

[Gio]

Thank You Irving, MF Red and All.

My dealer, Johnson Farm equipment in Fremont NE (great guys by the way) came out and installed my block heater. I also purchased a good Battery charger and some Diesel fuel treatment. I am a bit Paranoid when it comes to things working when I need them so I am trying to cover all my bases. My property sits on 5 acres that could very well be a test ground for windmills. I get huge drifts covering my 1/4 mile driveway and I would be very unhappy if my Tractor failed me on a sub-zero morning when i need to get in to work.

Thanks again for all the sage advice

 

[irvingj]

Here it is, from my GC2310 Owner's Manual, page 29. (Sorry it came out a bit dark... but still readable.)

Keep in mind, this is for the OEM hydraulic fluid, Permatran III.

Many folks (including me soon, I hope) have swapped the "normal" hydraulic fluid for a synthetic type, which remains less viscous at lower temps and requires less warm-up time (and less fuel!).

 

[lambs]

I'll add a few other things I have learned from my 1010. One is that the GP's do nothing for the first 10 seconds after you send current to them. Then they turn orange pretty quickly. The second thing is that if the engine is running rough after starting, I hit the GP's again while it's running and it smooths things out pretty quickly.

Finally, I didn't read this entire thread, but some tractors may have room for a lower radiator hose heater, which are pretty inexpensive. I don't think they are as effective as a block heater, but I imagine they work pretty well. I bought one for the 1010 but there was not enough room under the hood to fit it into place.

 

[Don87]

Here it is, from my GC2310 Owner's Manual, page 29. (Sorry it came out a bit dark... but still readable.)

Keep in mind, this is for the OEM hydraulic fluid, Permatran III.

Many folks (including me soon, I hope) have swapped the "normal" hydraulic fluid for a synthetic type, which remains less viscous at lower temps and requires less warm-up time (and less fuel!).

The 2400 series says the same thing.
I may change to synthetic after the warranty expires, dunno though...........Start tractor, come inside where it's warm, drink coffee, scan TBN for new posts, then clear driveway:thumbsup:

 

[Don87]

I'll add a few other things I have learned from my 1010. One is that the GP's do nothing for the first 10 seconds after you send current to them. Then they turn orange pretty quickly. The second thing is that if the engine is running rough after starting, I hit the GP's again while it's running and it smooths things out pretty quickly.

Finally, I didn't read this entire thread, but some tractors may have room for a lower radiator hose heater, which are pretty inexpensive. I don't think they are as effective as a block heater, but I imagine they work pretty well. I bought one for the 1010 but there was not enough room under the hood to fit it into place.

That is something I've never thought of or tried with glow plugs.

 

[MF RED in MT]

I'll add a few other things I have learned from my 1010. One is that the GP's do nothing for the first 10 seconds after you send current to them. Then they turn orange pretty quickly. The second thing is that if the engine is running rough after starting, I hit the GP's again while it's running and it smooths things out pretty quickly.

I would be afraid that I would turn the switch a little too far just past the GP's while it was already running and engage the starter again, . KC