2210D radiator sub-tank

/ 2210D radiator sub-tank
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Why do you think you have a problem of any kind? All I saw, for sure, was water rising and lowering in the overflow bottle, which is normal.

I'm not certain that I do, I just don't want to take any chances with the cooling system on a diesel engine. You only overheat a diesel ONCE, and you got trouble. I guess I'm just being a nervous nelly 'cause the tractor's new to me....... but the gurgling noise and fluid swapping between the radiator & bottle spooked me. I'm gonna test the **** out of everything I can; radiator, cap, bottle, head, block. I love my tractor (I know I can say that here because you guys will understand) and don't want her to get hurt....... :laughing:
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #23  
You would not necessarily get water in oil with a blown head gasket. Might and might not. I think you can check your temperature light circuit by removing the wire from the sensor and touching it to ground. Light should come on if key is on. That doesn't test the sensor, just the light. I am in no way inferring you have a blown head gasket, simply putting things out there to look at.
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #24  
Like winston said, you dont always get water in the oil, sometimes you can look in the rad and get oil in water in the rad. Also you can have a leak from a water jacket to a cylinder and it gets burned off and never gets into the oil, it depends where the leak on the head is.

That said its to early to say its a HG. Bubbles will occur sometimes as the fluid flows, but this WILL NOT happen on a cold engine that was just cranked up. If it bubbles after startup you may have a blown head, this is just a first test. Get the tester like cary said from Advance. It will pressure ize the radiator with a pum[ through the cap and will allow you to put 13-15 lbs, whatever on the system, which will show you any leaks, by forcing the water out of it. It is possible the tank on your radiator is cracked on the bottom under the shroud or the mounting tabs etc.

Do you get white smoke when running?
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #25  
I don't want to tear into the engine!!!! But if I have to.....I sure will. The fluid in the overflow bottle does go back into the radiator.....I haven't looked for bubbles into the overflow bottle. (I'll have to put back what I have off the tractor in preparation for hydraulics install & fire it up).

Here's a question: wouldn't I be getting water in the crankcase if the head gasket was blown? 'Cause there isn't any......

Next question.......does the temp. light lead go to the cyl. head? Do I simply take that wire off and touch it to the engine block/head? Not sure about this......

To answer your first question-no not necessarily if it was a gasket that was so bad to let coolant into one of the cyls it probably would hydrostaticly lock up but anything is possible.

Second question-on mine it does it goes to a sender that is in the upper rad hose housing.

Third question- yes touching the wire to the head should make the light come on since its a grounding circuit through the sender-once the sender hits the temp its calibrated at it simply goes to ground by a bi-metal switch inside it. good luck
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #28  
The bubbling sound you hear, is it after you shut the engine off? If so that is just the coolant draining back down, my ym2001 does the same thing, my overflow bottle rises slightly when at operating temperature then goes back down when cool, its normal for coolant to pass back and forth. At this point I wouldn't worry with it and just keep an eye on the coolant level.
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #29  
i agree with smoody. If you dont have a performance loss and you are not loosing coolant i would not worry right now. if your loosing coolant then you need to figure out where its going.
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #30  
If this is of any help to anyone in the future earlier I mentioned I would post my results of a new bottle of cooling system combustion test fluid and it didn't test positive either for some reason but I am done with that method.

I wont recommend the cooling system combustion test on a diesel engine to anyone from this point on, gas yes diesel no.

I know my HG is bad (I just hope it isn't a crack somewhere) by the extreme pressure rise that shows on the radiator tester when the engine is started and the steam that comes out of the bottle through the bubbles simple enough to see it is proof w/o any doubt. good luck
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #31  
I wont recommend the cooling system combustion test on a diesel engine to anyone from this point on, gas yes diesel no.

Me either Esp.if it's Hot. If it's that Bad all the one's I've seen has a relief valve on the Gauge which tops at 200 PSI. and on the Cap so you can take it off ;)I thought I seen one also on the cheap. You can Just about make one Like this.
 

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/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #32  
Here is what I was using carey that I don't like on diesels now.
 

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/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #33  
Gotcha!! Kind of don't blame you there.:laughing:

Carey
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #34  
Hey Carey just for grins I stuck that tester with the fluid in it right into my exhaust stack and had it bubbling with pure exhaust fumes and it still wouldn't change colors what a joke for a diagnostic tool its pitiful hahaha!
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #35  
Not Me either. I had a old 60's model Radiator come apart on me before. In a Old Van that sat in between the front seats. Those Jeans came off QUICK :laughing: The Radiator's Top Hose came apart. We must of hit it. Wasn't much room left after taking the Six out and droping in a 429 :p

Carey
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #36  
Next question.......does the temp. light lead go to the cyl. head? Do I simply take that wire off and touch it to the engine block/head?
Yes. Or, a little easier, since the 'end' is inside an insulated socket: slip the connector up slightly at the temp sensor and slip a bare grounded wire in there. This should light the lamp.
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Thanks everyone...........and have a great Thanksgiving!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:
:licking:
:D
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #38  
You have a good Thanksgivings Also.;)
To keep from tearing up the Wire cap I just use a clean Nail/Screw and slide in it. Also helps to get to bare metal easier.

Carey
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #39  
Well I went and pulled my cyl head last week Wednesday and it had 2 spots @ #1 cyl in the head gasket where it was blown, so not any surprise I couldn't keep my overflow bottle leveled out.

I cleaned the head and block and measured the warp the head was a whopping .007" the block was ok and liner seating depth was good that was good thank goodness so its @ the machine shop now for surfacing, I dye checked it for cracks before sending it off it was ok.

Once I get it back I will pull all the valves and see if I need to grind seats and valves. I cant imagine that I wont need to do something with the head warped this bad but time will tell.

It ran fine as is but now is the time to make it right while its torn down I don't ever plan on doing it again fact I shouldn't be working on it now but that's another story....

Hopefully Ill have it back together by Thursday or Friday as long as UPS cooperates getting my parts here.

I still haven't plowed my garden and a few other years end things and my driveway needs bladed now its rained a couple times here lately.
 
/ 2210D radiator sub-tank #40  
Well I got my engine back together Wednesday evening and ran it some yesterday blading my road and my coolant now moves back and forth like it should from the radiator to the overflow bottle.

I am taking it home to plow my garden this weekend and I fully expect it to finally work like it should.
 

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