Poor Man's Top n Tilt?

[MikeyB]

I have a 3320 with 3rd SCV at the rear of the tractor. I would love to have a tilt function as well but can't justify the cost of adding the electric diverter valve and all the plumbing involved.

If I was to use this:
Metro Machine Selector Valve, 1/2in. Port, 20 GPM Flow | Machine Selector Valves | Northern Tool + Equipment

could I use each cylinder individually by manually moving the valve? If so,
I figure some hoses, the valve, and the correct cylinder and I would be set...

Mike

 

[dfkrug]

could I use each cylinder individually by manually moving the valve? If so,
I figure some hoses, the valve, and the correct cylinder and I would be set...

You could do that, Mike, and it would work. But, I think it is a false
economy. You can buy a one-spool monoblock valve with PB for a similar
price ($90) and get independent tilt function for only a bit more. You would
balance that with needing one less hose for another independent spool
valve. Note that Northern is not the least costly vendor and you will find
more choices at places like SurplusCntr.

In both cases, you would be buying and adapting the same kind of tilt
cylinder.

 

[MikeyB]

You could do that, Mike, and it would work. But, I think it is a false
economy. You can buy a one-spool monoblock valve with PB for a similar
price ($90) and get independent tilt function for only a bit more. You would
balance that with needing one less hose for another independent spool
valve. Note that Northern is not the least costly vendor and you will find
more choices at places like SurplusCntr.

In both cases, you would be buying and adapting the same kind of tilt
cylinder.

Thanks for the reply although it is greek to me! What is a one-spool monoblock valve? I have one hydraulic output at the rear of the tractor controlled by a lever next to the 3PH adjustment lever that I currently use for a top link cylinder. Hydraulic pressure is only supplied when I have the lever out of its detent so I don't believe it is like power beyond which is always supplying pressure. My idea was the 1 pressurized input/output into the dual manual valve enabling me to direct which hyd cylinder I want it to go to at any given time.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[dfkrug]

What is a one-spool monoblock valve?

This one would work, tho I would look for a smaller one....your JD is
only an 8.3 GPM unit, so a 10-15GPM valve is better.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6701&catname=hydraulic

Monoblock means one big casting, as opposed to a stack valve that is
multiple sections that you bolt together.

To use this valve, you need to connect it between your triple SCV and
the 3-pt cylinder. I know this is more complicated than the manual
diverter valve you propose. Maybe you should go with that, or get
more help. It is really up to how much effort you want to go thru to
do it the better way.

 

[kennyd]

I have a 3320 with 3rd SCV at the rear of the tractor. I would love to have a tilt function as well but can't justify the cost of adding the electric diverter valve and all the plumbing involved.

If I was to use this:
Metro Machine Selector Valve, 1/2in. Port, 20 GPM Flow | Machine Selector Valves | Northern Tool + Equipment

could I use each cylinder individually by manually moving the valve? If so,
I figure some hoses, the valve, and the correct cylinder and I would be set...

Mike

An electric diverter is only a few more $$$ than the manual one you linked, all the plumbing is identical whether it's manual or electric so that cost is a wash.

Having a switch on the 3rd SCV handle to operate the TnT would be worth the $50 price difference to me rather than having to reach for the manual diverter.

D's way is viable also...but would probably end up costing more and still be less convenient than a switch on the 3rd SCV lever.

Here is a diverter that would fit the bill perfectly: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7852&catname=hydraulic

 

[MikeyB]

An electric diverter is only a few more $$$ than the manual one you linked, all the plumbing is identical whether it's manual or electric so that cost is a wash.

Having a switch on the 3rd SCV handle to operate the TnT would be worth the $50 price difference to me rather than having to reach for the manual diverter.

D's way is viable also...but would probably end up costing more and still be less convenient than a switch on the 3rd SCV lever.

Here is a diverter that would fit the bill perfectly: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7852&catname=hydraulic

Thanks KennyD,

So I could have the valve block at the rear. My two scv valve hoses into the valve. A two sets of 2 hoses out to my two rear hydraulic cylinders? That sounds like a great idea having a switch on the scv lever although it is a push/pull lever with a weird teardrop handle. Does the button have to be held down or just pushed to change the flow from one cylinder to the other?

Sorry for all the questions, but my putting on the rear scv kit has opened up a huge new realm of
possibilities for this tractor. Top n tilt, snowblower chute and deflector, etc....

Thanks,
Mike

 

[kennyd]

Thanks KennyD,

So I could have the valve block at the rear. My two scv valve hoses into the valve. A two sets of 2 hoses out to my two rear hydraulic cylinders?

Yes, that is correct. 2 in and 4 out.

That sounds like a great idea having a switch on the scv lever although it is a push/pull lever with a weird teardrop handle.

Not understanding that? push/pull? It should move like the rockshaft (3PH) lever.
You can mount a switch wherever you want...that will be a custom job. Figuring a way to attach it to the lever would be very convenient though.

Does the button have to be held down or just pushed to change the flow from one cylinder to the other?

However you want it. The switch is not provided, so you can get any style you want, whether it is momentary or not is up to you. When the valve has no power, fluid is sent by default to the C1 and C4 ports...click the 'Intructions" tab to download the .PDF, it explains it pretty well.

 

[deputy11]

Thanks for the JD parts tutorial, kennyd. Had poked around on there before but wasn't sure how to find what I was looking for. The longer I read this forum the more I learn! So far it's a toss up if I have saved more money not buying the wrong thing or spent more money finding out about things (HTL comes to mind) that I can't live without!:laughing:

 

[MikeyB]

Not understanding that? push/pull? It should move like the rockshaft (3PH) lever.

Sorry, poor explanation on my part. It is a forward/back lever that is spring loaded to a neutral detent.

Thanks for all your help. I imagine all the fittings and hoses will be most of
the expense!

Mike

 

[kennyd]

Thanks for the JD parts tutorial, kennyd. Had poked around on there before but wasn't sure how to find what I was looking for. The longer I read this forum the more I learn! So far it's a toss up if I have saved more money not buying the wrong thing or spent more money finding out about things (HTL comes to mind) that I can't live without!:laughing:

Your welcome...I guess?:thumbsup:

Glad the tutorial helped, thanks for the positive feedback. It's always nice to hear when you do things right If only my wife would:confused2:

 

[kennyd]

Sorry, poor explanation on my part. It is a forward/back lever that is spring loaded to a neutral detent.

Thanks for all your help. I imagine all the fittings and hoses will be most of
the expense!

Mike

Got it! Yes, hoses and fittings are expensive, but like I wrote above-it's the same for a manual or electric diverter.

Glad to help

 

[k0ua]

If I could chime in here for just a second, KennyD I read the specs for the electric diverter valve, and Think I understand it well, but my question is more of an operational question than technical. Lets say I connected this valve in the following manner. on my L3400 take the 2 work ports out of the front end loader control valve that normally control curl/dump into the p1 and p2 input to this electric diverter valve then plumb back the other 2 ports that have the flow path in the non-energized state back to the curl/dump hoses going to the loader cyl. so then the loader curl/dump circuit is made back just like it was. then plumb the other 2 ports out to a grapple thumb cylinder and maybe put a needle valve in this circuit or use 1/4 inch hoses to slow it down some. then hook a momentary foot switch on the left floorboard of the tractor to energize the coil to send fluid to the grapple to close when I move the main loader control towards the curl side . and when I want the grapple to open I would press the foot switch and push the main control to the dump side. What I am asking is this the way it would work, and is this a good plan from an ergonomic operational standpoint? I have never operated a grapple before, I do have over a 1000 hours behind a front end loader control, lever but 0 hours using a grapple. I am thinking as you approach the brush pile, you move the loader controls as normal to line up the "grab area" by using the lift and curl/dump to get it where you would "bite" then stomp the button to energize the coil and then move the control lever to dump to open the grapple, then move the tractor forward into the pile, move the control the other direction to close the grapple, release the foot button and then curl the bucket as needed. Does this sound right. ? Sorry for the extra long post, but I am really trying to think this through, and on this subject, I am a total newbie.
James K0UA

 

[kennyd]

If I could chime in here for just a second, KennyD I read the specs for the electric diverter valve, and Think I understand it well, but my question is more of an operational question than technical. Lets say I connected this valve in the following manner. on my L3400 take the 2 work ports out of the front end loader control valve that normally control curl/dump into the p1 and p2 input to this electric diverter valve then plumb back the other 2 ports that have the flow path in the non-energized state back to the curl/dump hoses going to the loader cyl. so then the loader curl/dump circuit is made back just like it was. then plumb the other 2 ports out to a grapple thumb cylinder and maybe put a needle valve in this circuit or use 1/4 inch hoses to slow it down some. then hook a momentary foot switch on the left floorboard of the tractor to energize the coil to send fluid to the grapple to close when I move the main loader control towards the curl side . and when I want the grapple to open I would press the foot switch and push the main control to the dump side. What I am asking is this the way it would work, and is this a good plan from an ergonomic operational standpoint? I have never operated a grapple before, I do have over a 1000 hours behind a front end loader control, lever but 0 hours using a grapple. I am thinking as you approach the brush pile, you move the loader controls as normal to line up the "grab area" by using the lift and curl/dump to get it where you would "bite" then stomp the button to energize the coil and then move the control lever to dump to open the grapple, then move the tractor forward into the pile, move the control the other direction to close the grapple, release the foot button and then curl the bucket as needed. Does this sound right. ? Sorry for the extra long post, but I am really trying to think this through, and on this subject, I am a total newbie.
James K0UA

James, I have a diverter installed on my tractor, and have been using it to operate my grapple for 2+ years now and my FEL snowplow before that. They work great-but do take a little getting used to with the switch and all...mine is on the joystick. Search the term "diverter" in the hydraulics forum for hours of reading my friend

 

[MikeyB]

Well, I have ordered all the parts (I hope) to add a second hydraulic circuit on the rear of my 3320 using an electric selector valve. I already have a hydraulic top link and will now be able to rotate my snowblower chute, etc.
I will post and provide pix if anyone is interested in my project. The most expensive parts besides the valve were the Pioneer quick couplers. I am not 100% sure I ordered the correct ones since they are a different brand. Time will tell.

Mike

 

[cmboal]

Mike B,
Where did you get the parts and what was the cost. I've seen kits before for around $500 that included the valve, switch and connectors. Here is a link to one of those kits.

SCV, Hydraulic Selective Control Valve Multiplier

I have been debating the grapple on my loader and I already have the plumbing up the loader arms (3rd function). Right now the lines are ran to my rear SVC valve which is controlled by a lever in my cab. I would like to add an extra set of valves on my mid mount to be able to select a grapple function with my joystick. BYW, I have a John Deere 3520 cab model.

If there is an easier or cheaper way that would be great!

Thanks,

Chad

 

[kennyd]

If there is an easier or cheaper way that would be great!

He is useing a "diverter" valve from the Surplus Center. It still gonna cost him $300-$400 after all the hoses and fittings are bought. If you search the term "diverter" in the hydraulics forum you will be reading for hours It is the simplest way to add a circuit to your FEL, plus you are already ahead since you have the lines already.

 

[foggy1111]

Mike B,
Where did you get the parts and what was the cost. I've seen kits before for around $500 that included the valve, switch and connectors. Here is a link to one of those kits.

SCV, Hydraulic Selective Control Valve Multiplier

I have been debating the grapple on my loader and I already have the plumbing up the loader arms (3rd function). Right now the lines are ran to my rear SVC valve which is controlled by a lever in my cab. I would like to add an extra set of valves on my mid mount to be able to select a grapple function with my joystick. BYW, I have a John Deere 3520 cab model.

If there is an easier or cheaper way that would be great!

Thanks,

Chad

I have looked at these set-ups (as in pic above) at my JD store. I think they are pretty slick in the way they attach to the current JD 3rd function remotes. I AM SURPRISED NOBODY HAS WRITTEN UP A REVIEW OF THIS SET-UP. It's commonly called a "Fasse Diverter" system.

What makes it nice is that a neophyte can hook it up....and you could easily move it from your "old" tractor to your "new" tractor....etc. The couplers that connect the Fasse diverter to the JD remotes are a novel "eccentric" that allow for variations in width. Pretty darn slick.

At the end of the day.....this Fasse set up would likely cost about $100 to $150 more (than buying at the Surplus Center)....but you would have ALL the RIGHT stuff...includeing switches, diagrams, wiring harness, PIONEER COUPLERS, and installation instructions. Not a bad value IMO.

(But....I still didn't buy one. )

Tightwad Foggy :laughing:

 

[teg]

Poor Man's Top n Tilt? ...that would be the manual one that comes with the tractor.


(I tried to stop myself from posting this...)
.

 

[MikeyB]

I have looked at these set-ups (as in pic above) at my JD store. I think they are pretty slick in the way they attach to the current JD 3rd function remotes. I AM SURPRISED NOBODY HAS WRITTEN UP A REVIEW OF THIS SET-UP. It's commonly called a "Fasse Diverter" system.

What makes it nice is that a neophyte can hook it up....and you could easily move it from your "old" tractor to your "new" tractor....etc. The couplers that connect the Fasse diverter to the JD remotes are a novel "eccentric" that allow for variations in width. Pretty darn slick.

At the end of the day.....this Fasse set up would likely cost about $100 to $150 more (than buying at the Surplus Center)....but you would have ALL the RIGHT stuff...includeing switches, diagrams, wiring harness, PIONEER COUPLERS, and installation instructions. Not a bad value IMO.

(But....I still didn't buy one. )

Tightwad Foggy :laughing:

Foggy,

I am awaiting on the parts from Surplus Center. That is a nice setup that looks like it includes everything needed. My total for parts was $280, but I am sure some more can be added for doo-dads I will need to complete the installation. I too am cheap and enjoy a challenge. I'll let you know how it goes!

Mike

 

[foggy1111]

Foggy,

I am awaiting on the parts from Surplus Center. That is a nice setup that looks like it includes everything needed. My total for parts was $280, but I am sure some more can be added for doo-dads I will need to complete the installation. I too am cheap and enjoy a challenge. I'll let you know how it goes!

Mike

I've read enough and done enough hydraulic connections to feel comfortable with what your doing also. And....I just may pull the trigger on that set-up myself when I need to.

I just thought some folks may like to see the Fasse-type kit...as it makes life easy.....and the qualitiy appears top-notch (and I'm sure there is a warranty). Then again.....installing new stuff is how we learn. :thumbsup: