Sickle Bar General questions about Sickle Bars

[sweettractors]

thanks...previously I think you stated that (at least some) belt drives will cut in the vertical position...do all "belt drive MF bars cut in the vertical position?...its possible this owner may not be aware ??

thanks again...

I don't know of a beltdrive/dynabalance mower that won't cut in the 90 degree vertical. Ken Sweet

 

[/pine]

I finally got a chance to go look at the sickle bar mower mentioned in the OP...

after looking at it and after what I have seen and read (here) I thought $300 was a good deal...so I bought it... attached are some (lame) pictures...I did not expect to be getting "like new" piece of equipment for what I paid but I think I did OK...
... the MF tag was intact but I could not read a model # (see pic)...it must have been printed on the tag but the serial # is legible.. 238 048905

[Question for Ken Sweet]...what are my chances of getting a manual for this mower? anything close?

I will take better pictures of *all* the adjustment points that are on the mower...as previously stated...I'm totally ignorant on the operation of this piece of equipment...also it is the first attachment that uses PTO power so I will also have some questions on that aspect as well...
sorry for the poor pics...

 

[/pine]

Has anyone got any (experienced) suggestions on the best way to add a hydraulic cylinder for managing the bar ?...what size (bore/stroke) will I be needing ?

 

[sweettractors]

Has anyone got any (experienced) suggestions on the best way to add a hydraulic cylinder for managing the bar ?...what size (bore/stroke) will I be needing ?

Congratulations on the purchase, you did good if the head runs out ok. Pine, the cast iron drive head will be the 31 and the welded head will be the 41 series. I really can't tell from the pictures. From what I can see in the pic. looks like a cast head. Let me know?
I have not figured a way to add hydraulics that will let the mower retain its full range of movement (70 degrees below horizontal and 90 degrees above. There are a few recent posts
showing ways to add the cylinder to raise to transport. Ken Sweet

 

[/pine]

It's hard to see there is shield welded on top...later this morning I will clean it up some and take some better pictures...are there manuals available for these ?

 

[sweettractors]

It's hard to see there is shield welded on top...later this morning I will clean it up some and take some better pictures...are there manuals available for these ?

I did a quick search and found both on Ebay. Here is the link: Ken Sweet
Massey Ferguson 41 mower items - Get great deals on Farm Implement Manuals Books items on eBay.com!

 

[/pine]

I did a quick search and found both on Ebay. Here is the link: Ken Sweet

great thanks...normally e-bay is the first place I look..but for some reason it did not dawn on me...thanks again for the link...

now all I have to do is determine which one I have...will post some better pics this afternoon...

 

[/pine]

I'm going to need at least one set of bearings for the pulley side of the head...I hope they are readily available?...

When I was checking out the mower (there was no tractor available) I spun the belt to make sure the bar functioned ok...today when I lowered the bar and spun the belt I noticed some lateral movement in the pulley...

I pulled the bar off and realized there is obviously a tore up bearing...I can see part of the ring and race...I need to get a bigger wheel puller before I can actually see what is needed...

Ken, can you tell from the pictures if this is a welded or cast head...I'm not sure what part I'm supposed to be looking at ?

in the last picture the broken parts of the bearing can be seen...

 

[sweettractors]

I'm going to need at least one set of bearings for the pulley side of the head...I hope they are readily available?...

When I was checking out the mower (there was no tractor available) I spun the belt to make sure the bar functioned ok...today when I lowered the bar and spun the belt I noticed some lateral movement in the pulley...

I pulled the bar off and realized there is obviously a tore up bearing...I can see part of the ring and race...I need to get a bigger wheel puller before I can actually see what is needed...

Ken, can you tell from the pictures if this is a welded or cast head...I'm not sure what part I'm supposed to be looking at ?

in the last picture the broken parts of the bearing can be seen...

It is the later model #41 series. Lets hope the previous owner did not run it very long in that condition. That crankshaft is easy to score and too expensive too replace, MF will have all your needed parts. Ken Sweet

 

[/pine]

...That crankshaft is easy to score and too expensive too replace...

a scored shaft will wear out new bearings?...what's "too expensive" ?...can a scored shaft not be re-machined ?

Also...looking at this manual http://i.ebayimg.com/15/!B53h!!wEWk~$(KGrHqV,!hUEyrsppfOHBMvRKoD8v!~~_3.JPG

this does not look like a sickle bar..what is with the wheels etc...?

thanks for all the information

 

[sweettractors]

a scored shaft will wear out new bearings?...what's "too expensive" ?...can a scored shaft not be re-machined ?

Also...looking at this manual http://i.ebayimg.com/15/!B53h!!wEWk~$(KGrHqV,!hUEyrsppfOHBMvRKoD8v!~~_3.JPG

this does not look like a sickle bar..what is with the wheels etc...?

thanks for all the information

If the crank is scored, it will ruin a new bearing pretty quick. Can't be machined and still fit the standard MF bearing. Lets hope for the best. The mower in the picture is pulling a hay crimper is what I see in the picture. This was a option some of the mowers had. A hitch and also a 540, 6 splined shaft coming off the big pulley at the back of the mower. Ken Sweet

 

[/pine]

Thanks again for the invaluable information...
for as little as I will be using this (a couple of hours maybe twice a year) I don't mind going through some bearings every so often...it will be several days before I can get a wheel puller and get a look..

I think it will serve my needs...I'm going to start a restoration process...I bought the operators manual from the e-bay source...and I located a MF dealer about 40 miles from me...

 

[sweettractors]

Thanks again for the invaluable information...
for as little as I will be using this (a couple of hours maybe twice a year) I don't mind going through some bearings every so often...it will be several days before I can get a wheel puller and get a look..

I think it will serve my needs...I'm going to start a restoration process...I bought the operators manual from the e-bay source...and I located a MF dealer about 40 miles from me...

You are welcome and good luck. Ken Sweet

 

[LostInTheWoods]

...there are about 8 residences along this road that is entirely private...landowners actually own the road and pay taxes on it...the only ROW is granted for telephone and power...

Around here, if you had 8 residences on that size road, you could very likely have the county "annex" the road and have it paved, as well as have the county maintain the ROW's. That may not be your wish / the wish of the other homeowners?

Another thing that comes to mind... 8 x $150 = $1200. Perhaps your neighbors would be willing to put some type of agreement together that the equipment would be community property, and that you would (so long as you are able) operate and maintain said equipment for the puprose of clearing this ROW X number of times/year?

 

[zzvyb6]

Not much different than what I cut on our road. I used a 5' rotary cutter (Bush Hog) and often used a 7' finish mower on my old 22hp yanmar. Set the mower height up with the gauge wheel spacers for the first cut and set her down for the second pass. The mowers were so much wider than the tractor that you could hang it over the edge a bit. And, you can offset the mower with the draft arm adjustments even more.

My used 5'er was $250 and the finish mower was more (new though). Now I do everything with the finish mower as I set it to max height for the occasional road work. (Gator blades)

 

[/pine]

you could very likely have the county "annex" the road and have it paved, as well as have the county maintain the ROW's

the road is 100% private property...the only ROW is allowed for utility lines and we mandate what they do as far as "trimming"... the last thing we want is a paved road...access on this road is by right of egress by the land
owners...

there is only one full time residents...we hare here about 8 months...the rest are "weekend warriors"

as for another type of mower...nothing else would work...to use a pull behind mower the tractor would either need to be in the ditches (impossible) or on much too steep of slope to operate...(side of the mountain)...if you drive off this road on the low side the only thing that keep you from going all the way to the river are the trees...

the only alternative to a sickle bar is hand held string trimmers...

 

[Gordon Gould]

Another thing that comes to mind... 8 x $150 = $1200. Perhaps your neighbors would be willing to put some type of agreement together that the equipment would be community property, and that you would (so long as you are able) operate and maintain said equipment for the puprose of clearing this ROW X number of times/year?

We have lots of private roads up here. Towns are reluctant to take on new roads and if they do the specs for the road are tough to meet. There is usually a road agreement amoungst the residents like LostInTheWoods said.

 

[/pine]

We have lots of private roads up here. Towns are reluctant to take on new roads and if they do the specs for the road are tough to meet. There is usually a road agreement amoungst the residents like LostInTheWoods said.

Yup...the cost of bringing all the culverts etc. up to county requirements would make it cost prohibitive regardless of our apathy towards doing so...Also, there is no need for any formalized "agreement"...I have been maintaining the road for for 40 years...begining when there were only three residents (home-sites)...(and no culverts)...if there is a real need for a load of gravel or other repair there is never any reluctance for all to chip in and get it done...

The "new comers" get quickly educated...the biggest problem we have is with delivery trucks and occasional construction vehicles but they too are quiclky "informed" on "how to drive"...

 

[Gordon Gould]

Yup...the cost of bringing all the culverts etc. up to county requirements would make it cost prohibitive regardless of our apathy towards doing so...Also, there is no need for any formalized "agreement"...I have been maintaining the road for for 40 years...begining when there were only three residents (home-sites)...(and no culverts)...if there is a real need for a load of gravel or other repair there is never any reluctance for all to chip in and get it done...

The "new comers" get quickly educated...the biggest problem we have is with delivery trucks and occasional construction vehicles but they too are quiclky "informed" on "how to drive"...

This doesn't cover equipment ?

 

[LostInTheWoods]

This doesn't cover equipment ?

Ditto.

Another thing that comes to mind... 8 x $150 = $1200. Perhaps your neighbors would be willing to put some type of agreement together that the equipment would be community property, and that you would (so long as you are able) operate and maintain said equipment for the puprose of clearing this ROW X number of times/year?

I understand that you don't need a formal agreement on who maintains the ROW. My thought was simply that if the fix-r-upper equipment doesn't pan out, your neighbors might be willing to share the cost in regards to obtaining something in better condition.

Of course, if all goes well with reconditioning the item you have, then no worries. :thumbsup: