IMO forward and back is more important than side to side. If hooking to the far side of the tractor creates a angle to the trailer rail less than 45 degrees I would not recommend it.
Trailering.....
- Thread starter stormpetrel
- Start date
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IMO forward and back is more important than side to side. If hooking to the far side of the tractor creates a angle to the trailer rail less than 45 degrees I would not recommend it.
Common misconception.
windy acers
Silver Member
A yanmar dealer told me to be aware of the front wheel bearings being weak. Dont crank down the binders so tight.I would think it would be ok to to pull down enough to slightly flatten the tires. I have been expermenting with running the chaines through the back tire slots.
jgrreed
Platinum Member
I was taught to always attach to the frame...
I think the thought is that if some REALLY bad ever happened, like you head-on a semi and the rims get ripped off, the tractor doesn't become a 6000lb projectile.
-Jer.
clemsonfor
Super Member
I dont think any of us have a 6000lb yanmar. I know many other tractors are in this weight but this is in the yanmar forum and he is getting a yanmar.
C
careyo63
Guest
I'm with jgrreed I had a feeling were this was going to go after making a post/reply early. Esp. since I am Known to show up on Trailers and transportation forum. Hopefully everyone is down to the final shakes by now in this peeing match.:laughing:
To be honest I use both. If I'm staying local I will just strap everything down real good. It won't scratch everything up which I keep carpet scraps as a buffer for the chains. Since I'm from WV. lived in Md. and go through Va. regularly and know the Roads and Highways all to well. If I'm pulling a tractor on the Trailer I'm bringing out the chains. If I'm traveling from Ga. with the speed limit 65 mph. Thats way to fast to secure down equipment that weights a Ton+ with just straps. I have cut and broke straps and lost them trailering the 4 wheelers before. Not me!!!!! I have all kinds of staps If there would be a accident at highway speeds IMO. they will not hold that much weight down period. Implements may be a different story BB. Plow. Mower that doesn't weigh a few hundred Lbs. straps would likely hold. Plus I would rather keep up with a few chains when these straps aren't enough to tie everything down
To be honest I use both. If I'm staying local I will just strap everything down real good. It won't scratch everything up which I keep carpet scraps as a buffer for the chains. Since I'm from WV. lived in Md. and go through Va. regularly and know the Roads and Highways all to well. If I'm pulling a tractor on the Trailer I'm bringing out the chains. If I'm traveling from Ga. with the speed limit 65 mph. Thats way to fast to secure down equipment that weights a Ton+ with just straps. I have cut and broke straps and lost them trailering the 4 wheelers before. Not me!!!!! I have all kinds of staps If there would be a accident at highway speeds IMO. they will not hold that much weight down period. Implements may be a different story BB. Plow. Mower that doesn't weigh a few hundred Lbs. straps would likely hold. Plus I would rather keep up with a few chains when these straps aren't enough to tie everything down
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Agrantina
Platinum Member
This is what I found works for me. I use 4 racket straps on all four corners. Make sure that straps dont rubbbb anything. I have a clevis on each corner makes it easy to hook to. Straps are 4,000 lbs breaking strength and 1,600 load. So 4 holds my 3500 lbs tractor in place. Pics are where I put the clevies.. I trailer my tractor everytime I use it... :thumbsup:
AndyG
AndyG
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stormpetrel
Gold Member
Thanks guys, a lot of great information. I was thinking of chocks on all four tires, screwed into the deck. I was also thinking of clamping the front edge of the loader down with sheet metal (drilled, then screwed). Then a big-*** ratcheting tie-down strap on bush hog, rear of tractor, front of tractor, and loader. Great advice about re-tightening straps. I have found driving with alumapole staging on my truck racks that after I have tightened 3/4 times, they stop getting loose. I guess it will pay off big not to be in a rush....stop frequently & check. I also have an 8,000 lb boat I trailer, after that the tractor seems not too big. But I don't do a lot of interstate driving with the boat.....I'm gonna watch my *****.
P.S. I think my straps are rated for 10,000 lbs, they're the huge trucker type.
P.S. I think my straps are rated for 10,000 lbs, they're the huge trucker type.
LBrown59
Super Star Member
- Joined
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- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
the thought is that if some thing REALLY bad ever happened, like you head-on a semi and the rims get ripped off, the tractor doesn't become a 6000lb projectile .
I don't think I would care for a Yanmar projectile either , even if it is lighter than 6000 pounds.
brokenknee
Platinum Member
Each chain has to be able to be adjusted individually. (each must have their own chain binder)
The size and rating of the chain has to equal 1/2 the load. 6,000 lb tractor needs to have chains (or straps) rated for 3,000 lbs. Now the rating of the chain not only depends on the chain rating but how it is used to secure the tractor. If it goes from one side of the trailer to the other you get the full rating of the chain/strap. If you use it to go from one side of the trailer to a point on the tractor back to the same side of the trailer it only counts for 1/2 the rated load.
Also check the ratings on the binders, they must be at least equal to the load of the chain since load securement is figured to the weakest link.
Also anything 10,000 pounds and over needs to be secured at four corners. A strap or chain must also be over the loader if you have one (or back hoe bucket)
These are all federal regulations and do not necessary apply for people towing for private use. It would depend on the state you operate in.
jgrreed
Platinum Member
OK. You line yourself and your family up, of course protected behind a 1/4" piece of heat treated glass, and I'll hurl a 1500lb Yanmar projectile at you at 65mph.
Get chains, attach them to the frame. Alternatively, do whatever the h*ll you want, just stay away from me and mine, with your ultralight Yanmar.
-Jer.
clemsonfor
Super Member
My whole point is that i understand multiplied forces etc. And rating of straps is not what the breaking strength or "work load is". That said i have an 1800lb yanmar which is strapped down till tires buldge and wont move by two 10,000lb BREAKING strenght straps, each have a safe working load limit of 3,333lbs, a third or the strenght as per osha standards i think is how thats determined. So i have 20,000lbs of holding strength on my 1800 lb machine i think that is plenty and i have been thinking about adding a third onto it making it 30,000lbs i have full faith in my straps as holding the load down. I am not using 4500 lb total strenght 1.5" straps like some but full size straps next size below the trucker 3" wide straps that are ratted at like 30,000lbs, **** they are only required by law here to throw 2 straps over the 50,000lbs of wood they haul, that makes me better off than they are hauling 50,000lbs with 60,000lbs of strapping ability.
jgrreed
Platinum Member
Yes. I agree. You obviously know a lot more about the technicalities of straps, chains, working load, etc.
My original point was that the chains, or straps, need to be attached to the most "integral" part of the tractor possible - ie, the frame, or something intimately and solidly attached to the frame.
I wouldn't consider the rim of the wheel to be all that solidly attached. Rims break, axles break, axle mounts break during normal use, so a huge impact could easily cause them to fail.
-Jer.
clemsonfor
Super Member
That is why i said i like to use the rim and across the belly of the tractor. Even if the rims sheer off, the one on the belly of the tractor with a working limit of 3,33lbs should still hold the whole 1800lb tractor, especially assuming that the rims sheering off the hubs would certainly reduce the inertia exerted on the tractor in an emergency stop.
radioman
Super Member
its a start. Granted you are not a trucker and hauling heavy items, but it really pays if you think like one.
You shouldn't use sheet metal to screw in floor and overlap on fel edge.
I suggest that you have 4 chains for tractor itself on the frame to trailer frame using binders (lever or ratchet is fine). 2 in front and 2 in back in X pattern. I would use those heavy duty straps you have and strap down each implement. One for FEL and one for bush hog. You can chock the tires, nothing wrong with that. I think chocking tires is overkill for 2 hr drive but for a long trip like yours, its a great peace of mind.
All you want to do is prevent tractor and implements falling out of trailer in a event of rollover. This is where chains and straps come in. Thats why I don't think sheet metal to fel will do any good. If your load shifts in a rollover, chances are FEL will fall out of your sheetmetal contraption. A properly strapped FEL will still hold even if one of chains fails on tractor, the other 3 is designed to hold tractor close proximity.
jgrreed
Platinum Member
I agree. When hauling or trailering, you have a tremendous responsibility to those around you.
Each to their own. Rather than calculating what I need to have in place as a back up for the method that I already know is insufficient, I prefer to simplify by ensuring that all of my safety techniques are more than adequate.
-Jer.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Accepted, not only do we all need to be safe, but not just safe in our mind (ie just one 5000 lb strap on a 2000lb tractor. not safe regardless of what the owener may think). I feel i am safe and am going by advertised limits on my tractor and am way under, even a chain can have a weak weld in it and bust.
I work with loggers and when they move there D6's or tractors (skidders to those not in the business) which weigh 20,000+ lbs they only use 4 chains on them, and some of you guys are using four 3/8 chains on your hobby tractor.
Bottom line we all need to be safe and you can be safe with straps as long as you know what your doing. Many loads a day go down the road on big rigs with straps holding them that are much heavier than our trucks, chains are used when an anchor point can be grabbed, like on equiptment. Obscure items or different size and shapes is strapped, like a big box on a flatbed all wood products weather it be raw roundwood logs or the 2x4's from the mill to bricks there all strapped down, which is why truck flatbed trailers have those ratchets on them.
jgrreed
Platinum Member
Exactly!!
Some truckers & loggers roll through stop signs and speed too, that doesn't make it right.
Sure, straps are great. I use them for bales, lumber, etc. Mine are 'cheapies' that I bought at Costco, certainly not the heavy duties that a trucker would use.
I guess one of my concerns when answering a question from a trailering rookie is that he/she likely doesn't know all the info and knowlege that you do. I prefer to overstate safety and let people 'scale back' as their experience dictates.
A nice exchange of opinions!!!
Use chains......
-Jer.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Exactly!!
Some truckers & loggers roll through stop signs and speed too, that doesn't make it right.
Use chains......
-Jer.
Right on the loggers and trucker debate. I did not make my point clear, as i was meaning that what they do is probably the legal limit, as when they tow they are not exactly inconspicuous and are pulled often and want to avoid as many offenses as possible so the chains are probably the legal minimun, but i really dont know. I dont want anything to do with their loads so i have nothing to do with any accident they may have.
As far as a beginner, yes use chains!! not the 1/8" ones though!!
