Cut-off guides for firewood

[turnkey4099]

By Qeubecker: "A trick I used to do just what you did is to put a tie-wrap fastener on the handle, perpendicular to the blade, and tihgt it enough to let it pivot when I put the saw in it's case or when the measurement was not needed (like felling trees).

Of course you have to find a long and bold tie-wrap that you cut at the desired length.

I'ts a cheap way to do it and quick to replace when necessary."

we put a guide on the handle, a small peice of 5/16" rod, 2" long, bent with a 90* in the middle, clamp it to the handle, with a hose clamp, then put a peice of fuel line on the other end. cut to length, and your good to go. swings back out of the way, to fit in the tool box, and can pull out with a couple wiggles to remove it..

Both are excellent ideas. Somehow in 30 years I never thought of either of them! Will probably try one or both next season. I particularly like the 'gets out of the way' without having to take them off.

Hary K

 

[Don87]

Finish a cut, lay end of bar on the cut and start cutting the next round. No marking of the log at all. That is for cutting from the right to the left. Going the other way you note where the end of the rod is as you cut the previous round, move saw over to it and beging cutting the next one.

Haven't timed anything but it does eliminate all the monkey motion so it must be faster than marking a log to begin with or using a measuring stick for each cut (I do that if I am using a saw that doesn't have the 'union nut').

One good thing about it is you can adjust the cut when coming to a crotch or bow in thelog and then go right back to cutting 16" (or whatever) rounds without having to remark.

Harry K

Duh, I shoulda figured that one out. LOL
The device you showed would be quicker than a measuring stick for sure.

I just start at one end, lay the saw on the log, pick my mark and cut. When i get down to the last few pieces, I can tell quickly if I need to adjust the length of cut.

Guess I'm just 'old school. I'll stick with my monkey motion:laughing:

Please send bananas:licking:

 

[crazyal]

Glad I'm not the only one who doesn't get the same length each time. Usually it's more because I'm trying to cut the tree up where it fell. I'm hoping with the new tractor I'll be able to drag them out as logs and cut them up in the open. I do the mark on the bar methode. I don't check each one but just every so often to recolibrate my eye.

I give 3 cord to my mother, her stove only takes 16". Mine takes 19" very easy and can get up to 21". Since I really don't want to burn 14" pieces of wood I try to get it exactly 16" so we both can use the wood. Anything over is mine.

What about mounting a flexable rod, say 1/4" fiberglass, sticking straight up to the dogs maybe mount a spring or a tube so you could slide it out to get it out of the way when felling or limbing. All you would need to do is rotate the saw onto it's side to measure and you could measure either way.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I can understand the theory behind using a device like that, but the actual working principle evades me.
Do you use a paint mark or something?
[[I personally just use my chainsaw to mark. IE: spinning the chain for my marks.
I've watched my neighbor with his 'measuring stick', and i can cut 1/3 more wood than him with a saw that is half the size, in the same amount of time.]]

Agreed.

 

[turnkey4099]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don87

[[I personally just use my chainsaw to mark. IE: spinning the chain for my marks.
I've watched my neighbor with his 'measuring stick', and i can cut 1/3 more wood than him with a saw that is half the size, in the same amount of time.]]

Agreed.

Same except I don't think it is 1/3 more. When using a measuring stick for each cut there is too much time wasted getting saw out of way, laying stick down, getting saw back in position, etc. I still do it though when the saw mounted 'stix' are not there.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

<snip>

What about mounting a flexable rod, say 1/4" fiberglass, sticking straight up to the dogs maybe mount a spring or a tube so you could slide it out to get it out of the way when felling or limbing. All you would need to do is rotate the saw onto it's side to measure and you could measure either way.

Sounds like a very workable solution and keeps the 'stick' mostly out of the way.

Harry K

 

[Skyco]

I'd be a little concerned about kickback spearing me with the rod, probably in the face, if it is sticking straight up:confused2:

And before someone says it- yes I'm a deputy in the Safety Police:cool2:

 

[beenthere]

I'm **** too about length, as it stacks better on a pallet being all the same length.

I've found best for me is to have a measuring stick cut 90" with me in the woods. Cut the logs to 90" there, carry them out on the forks, and stack in pretty neat pile with ends close to flush.

Then layout the first log using the length of the chainsaw bar, marking each cut location with the tip, and checking that the cuts are same length. From that point on through the pile of logs, it is easy to see where all the cuts are located. But the 20" chainsaw bar is the measuring tool at that point.

I'd find an added stick or bar on my saw to be in the way. And to Skyco, in 50+ years of chainsaw use, never have experienced kickback but realize their is a remote potential for it to happen. The closest is when running a chain at slow speeds, such as an electric chainsaw or at less than full throttle. Small chainsaws that are lightweight are more likely to kick too.
Just my experience and opinion. Others may vary.

 

[Skyco]

Kickback is much more common when using pro grade chains that don't have the anti kickback feature. I run them on my Makita/Dolmar 20" saw...I've had it a few times in the last 6 months, it surprised me, never had it that much in 30+ years with smaller saws and the anti-kickback chains that come on consumer grade saws.

 

[Don87]

Kickback is much more common when using pro grade chains that don't have the anti kickback feature. I run them on my Makita/Dolmar 20" saw...I've had it a few times in the last 6 months, it surprised me, never had it that much in 30+ years with smaller saws and the anti-kickback chains that come on consumer grade saws.

I only use the 'square tooth chains', they cut faster and being a former logger, that's what we used. Very high kickback potential with these.
Round tooth chains cut a little slower, but have a very low kickback potential.

 

[turnkey4099]

I'd be a little concerned about kickback spearing me with the rod, probably in the face, if it is sticking straight up:confused2:

And before someone says it- yes I'm a deputy in the Safety Police:cool2:

Very good point!! Had a couple kickbacks this year. Nothing major and stopped them before the bar cleared the wood. Gives the left arm a real good 'jolt' though.

Harry K

 

[MarkV]

Has anyone tried one of these? Bailey's - The Mingo Marker Firewood Marker

MarkV

 

[Bill Hoffman]

Yup, It works well and fast!:thumbsup:
Bill

 

[crazyal]

I'd be a little concerned about kickback spearing me with the rod, probably in the face, if it is sticking straight up:confused2:

And before someone says it- yes I'm a deputy in the Safety Police:cool2:

I never have my head in line with the chain. Actually the only part that might get inline would be a leg. It's rare that I get a kick back but what I worry more about is the chain breaking. I've had several people get some pretty back scars. But you do have a valid point. Maybe instead a more flexable material could be used.

I took a look at my Husky today and instead of mounting it to the dog the chain brake safety bar would work. It's 10" from the bottom of the bar to the top of the chain brake. So if looking for 16" wood all that would be needed is something that sticks up 6". A drinking straw would probably work just fine and I know where I can get an endless supply for free, lol.

 

[turnkey4099]

Has anyone tried one of these? Bailey's - The Mingo Marker Firewood Marker

MarkV

I have seen reviews of them. Haven't used one but it is the same principle of using a marking stick to mark the entire log before beginning cutting.

Doesn't work for me as one must make adjustments when coming to crooks and crotches. That throws off all the subsequent marks.

Harry K

 

[jgrreed]

Just get one of these and be done with it!!!

Hahn Harvesters: HS 500/A Slasher-Merchandiser

:laughing:

-Jer.

 

[jake98]

Has anyone tried one of these? Bailey's - The Mingo Marker Firewood Marker

MarkV

I bet the illegals use that for laying out studs.

 

[Bill Hoffman]

OOOOOOH!:laughing:

 

[turnkey4099]

Just get one of these and be done with it!!!

Hahn Harvesters: HS 500/A Slasher-Merchandiser

:laughing:

-Jer.

Them thangs take all the fun out of 'wooding'

Harry K

 

[towmotor]

I don't get too **** about firewood length, so eyeballing it seems to work for me. If have a real brain fart, I'll go by the length of the saw bar (18"). As long as it burns, I'm warm.

I do wonder if some sort of gauge would help...
maybe one of those bright orange plastic tubes we put on the corners of snowplows would work.
Maybe it could be bolted through the bucking teeth, or a small attaching tab could be clamped on the bottom of the handle.