how to build your own custom backhoe subframe

[Kevin M]

Thanks for posting this thread lots of usefull info here! I have used some of the ideas here to refit a New Holland 757 Backhoe on my 755 John Deere. Thanks again

 

[dfkrug]

Since I have recently acquired another 4300, I am considering another
subframe to mount another hoe on it. I am leaning toward a different
design, partly to keep my interest, but also to be able to compare/
contrast 2 different approaches for the exact same tractor and hoe.

I am working with the very tight clearances on the rear of the 4300
to see if I can design a subframe that is similar to a conventional
4-point mount. The forward section of the subframe would stay on the
tractor, and the attachment points would be just behind the axle housings.
I may not get to this until fall, so stay tuned.

 

[arrabil]

dfkrug, I'd like to say thank you to you again for posting this. I used an integrated TLB/backhoe for the first time yesterday and that machine was getting tossed around like a hot potato in my hard, rocky soil. And I was being gentle on it since it isn't mine and I didn't buy the insurance! Even just reaching the end of hydraulic travel on a cylinder made the machine jerk around. I can't imagine how you can use a 3pt mount or the rockshaft-assist mounting plates with an aluminum housing. Just can't see it. But now I can (and will) buy any properly-sized backhoe and use your design to attach it right. So... Thanks!

 

[dfkrug]

I will bet that Allmand has 3000 or more psi hydraulics, too!

 

[dsmau]

Thanks for posting this thread lots of usefull info here! I have used some of the ideas here to refit a New Holland 757 Backhoe on my 755 John Deere. Thanks again

I believe versions A/B? of the 757 were made by ARPS/amerequip and were the same as JD #7. 758 same as JD #8a/b. This would have to be confirmed but if that is the case you have different possibilities. Either find original mounting hardware or check how a JD #7 fits on a 755 and copy this design.

 

[consaka]

We do look forward to a day when one of the neighbors does get replaced!

Be careful what you wish for!!!

Yeah you could get me and my wife and two kids. As far as neighbors go we would bore you to death. We don't party, don't drink, don't smoke, we mind our own business and stay within our own property lines. No raving fights. No wildwood weed Little gardening, little inventing, Little trail making for daily walks. Shoot if I wasn't coming over all the time to see what projects your working on you might not even know we were there.

 

[magicheater]

Recently completed my retrofit of a frame kit that was not made for my tractor.
Pictures not in sequence but in a nutshell had to widen the frame to fit two contrasting areas. Ended up chamfering the hooks that go on the 3PT pins so they would fit snug and allow the forward hole alignment to be correct. Everything fits REALLY snug as I had not much room for error. I like the Bush Hog Hoe. Only have to run at 1200-1400 rpm's to get satisfactory power. It is a heavy unit, much more so than the Prairie Dog Digger I had before. I plumbed it in sequence with my loader valve-rear joystick-backhoe-3rd remote. Have not had it off yet so don't know how easy/hard that will be. I took the 3PT arms off but see I may be able to leave them on as there is room. I also have some hose issues to clean up and some stabilizer pads to make among other things. Another Day.......................

 

[Kendrick]

dfkrug the kioti DK45 I have has, im assuming a ladder? style attachment system. I truely like how it works. I plan to build another sub frame like the one I got with the BH and put a pallet fork system on it. it uses 2 large clamps to hook the subframe to the tractor. then a pair or 1.5-2" pins hold it in place its a nice quick setup and guides you in to proper position. I was also planning to put armor on to the sub so that when i get going to the diches i dont hit any thing on the underside

 

[dfkrug]

I plan to build another sub frame like the one I got with the BH and put a pallet fork system on it. it uses 2 large clamps to hook the subframe to the tractor.

Do you mean that you would put a fork lift on the rear of the tractor,
mounted to the subframe?

 

[Kendrick]

yes my fel is to light for that purpose though doable. max lift is 1500-2200 iirc and I want to be able to lift 1tn ish so add the 500lbs for forks etc and your at or past red line. rear mounting like a bh I could get a bit more weight. 3000-4000 range probably I could also have it with some of the pro forlkift features side to side adjustment forward tilt etc. I saw a site that had 3pt catII i think 50-60+ hp forks that were 4500 lift range i think. they looked nice but were 8k i think maybe more.

I think ideal in my books would be using an attachment point like the BX 4 pin with the sub frame I have or a modified one that allows the arms to be moved more out of the way. have an extra pair of hard points behind the wheels to connect in to the top link. since my 45 sits up a bit I dont see clearance problems. off a trailer would be the only one I would see likely and that would be the bucket. ug that reminds me I got to go and re tork all the bolts to spec before next use. dont trust the twits that sold it.

cant find the site i saw earler but http://www.edwards-equip.com/Content/Forklifts.aspx the next to bottom is a decent idea what I mean.

 

[dcyrilc]

yes my fel is to light for that purpose though doable. max lift is 1500-2200 iirc and I want to be able to lift 1tn ish so add the 500lbs for forks etc and your at or past red line. rear mounting like a bh I could get a bit more weight. 3000-4000 range probably I could also have it with some of the pro forlkift features side to side adjustment forward tilt etc. I saw a site that had 3pt catII i think 50-60+ hp forks that were 4500 lift range i think. they looked nice but were 8k i think maybe more.

I think ideal in my books would be using an attachment point like the BX 4 pin with the sub frame I have or a modified one that allows the arms to be moved more out of the way. have an extra pair of hard points behind the wheels to connect in to the top link. since my 45 sits up a bit I dont see clearance problems. off a trailer would be the only one I would see likely and that would be the bucket. ug that reminds me I got to go and re tork all the bolts to spec before next use. dont trust the twits that sold it.

cant find the site i saw earler but Forklifts :: Edwards Equipment Company the next to bottom is a decent idea what I mean.

Nice link. And they're only about 3 hours from me.:thumbsup:

 

[Kendrick]

per usual I cant find the really nice ones I originally saw.. that may have been at a different pc though but oh well.. thats atleas the idea im hoping to get... though I do want to put in the side to side slide for the forks 4 ish " travle side ways so that I dont have to muck with perfect tractor allignment get it close and straight then use the fork slide to get the load horisontaly alligned

 

[Iplayfarmer]

per usual I cant find the really nice ones I originally saw.. that may have been at a different pc though but oh well.. thats atleas the idea im hoping to get... though I do want to put in the side to side slide for the forks 4 ish " travle side ways so that I dont have to muck with perfect tractor allignment get it close and straight then use the fork slide to get the load horisontaly alligned

I occasionally run forklifts at work. Side shift is a must.

 

[DavidVT]

Back on the subframe topic, I have a Kubota 3430 with an old 3pt mounted woods 750bh.
I have the ladder subframe that came from the original owner that used it on a ford.

Looking for advice as I really want to get this off the 3pt mount. I have bent two top link pins despite only running the engine at around 1K when running the BH.

Today I was trying make my wife happy by digging out a stone she keeps hitting with the mower. Naturally it was half the size of a refrigerator when I uncovered it. My FEL would not even move the stone. I did find that the BH, again with just low engine speed, would easily roll the monster where I needed it to go.

SO, I see that my attempt to run the BH easily at low speed is still causing wear on the 3pt pins and clearly there is plenty of power available that I don't want released at me some day.

Should I look for the woods 4pt for grand L's? something like $1K the last time I checked. I already have a woods loader.

Should I attempt to modify the ladder style mount I have out behind the barn? The front just needs a place to mount the cross pin and I think that would be easy. I suspect the rear will be very low due to the design of this tractor and my industrial tires. The ford used bolts/pins from the axle housing to carry the rear of the subframe.

Just looking for thoughts on this.... thx

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Back on the subframe topic, I have a Kubota 3430 with an old 3pt mounted woods 750bh.
I have the ladder subframe that came from the original owner that used it on a ford.

Looking for advice as I really want to get this off the 3pt mount. I have bent two top link pins despite only running the engine at around 1K when running the BH.

Today I was trying make my wife happy by digging out a stone she keeps hitting with the mower. Naturally it was half the size of a refrigerator when I uncovered it. My FEL would not even move the stone. I did find that the BH, again with just low engine speed, would easily roll the monster where I needed it to go.

SO, I see that my attempt to run the BH easily at low speed is still causing wear on the 3pt pins and clearly there is plenty of power available that I don't want released at me some day.

Should I look for the woods 4pt for grand L's? something like $1K the last time I checked. I already have a woods loader.

Should I attempt to modify the ladder style mount I have out behind the barn? The front just needs a place to mount the cross pin and I think that would be easy. I suspect the rear will be very low due to the design of this tractor and my industrial tires. The ford used bolts/pins from the axle housing to carry the rear of the subframe.

Just looking for thoughts on this.... thx

Others may correct me on this, but a pump will build the same pressure at a slower engine speed. The flow will be reduced. This means you can't save your pins with a slower engine speed because the forces are all the same, just the speed is slower. The only thing you accomplish with a slower engine speed is that you bend your pins slower.

You should do something to get your backhoe off the 3 pt. What you do depends on your resources. If you have more money that time and skill, buy the subframe from the dealer. If you have time and want to make something that is customized to your specific tractor, modify the subframe you have.

 

[kennyd]

Others may correct me on this, but a pump will build the same pressure at a slower engine speed. The flow will be reduced.

That is 100% correct. These are constant pressure pumps, but the flow varies with RPM.

This means you can't save your pins with a slower engine speed because the forces are all the same, just the speed is slower. The only thing you accomplish with a slower engine speed is that you bend your pins slower.

I will disagree a little bit...The faster the hoe is operating, then the more it's is slammed around-especially by a new/inexperienced operator.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I will disagree a little bit...The faster the hoe is operating, then the more it's is slammed around-especially by a new/inexperienced operator.

Point taken. Speed can be destructive too.

 

[dcyrilc]

That is 100% correct. These are constant pressure pumps, but variable displacement.

Did I miss something in the post about the backhoe? Aren't most of the newer tractors OC constant flow rather than CC constant pressure with variable displacement pumps?

 

[dfkrug]

Should I look for the woods 4pt for grand L's? something like $1K the last time I checked. I already have a woods loader.

Should I attempt to modify the ladder style mount I have out behind the barn? The front just needs a place to mount the cross pin and I think that would be easy. I suspect the rear will be very low due to the design of this tractor and my industrial tires. The ford used bolts/pins from the axle housing to carry the rear of the subframe.

I like the Woods 4-pt subframe for the Lxx30 tractors. These days, you
will likely pay over $1K for it, and it could take a while to receive it.

Since you have the other subframe already, modifying it could be a simple
and straight-forward job, even if it is not ideal. No doubt it would be
better than your 3PH.

If you make one from scratch, or modify the one you have, you should
be able to mount the hoe closer to the tractor than even the Woods
4-pt subframe does.

Note the older 750 hoes from Woods have their hyd reliefs set at no
more than 2000 psi, and your tractor puts out a healthy 2500psi (at 8+
GPM). This can be limiting to your FEL if you keep the hoe mounted,
unless you use a hyd work port for power (and disconnect the hoe hyds
when not in use).

As noted, the raw forces you can apply with your hoe at low hyd flow
rates get higher when higher flows are used, due to the momentum
of the faster moving boom, dipper, and heavy loads in the bkt. And,
since pins are not snug, you will increase the hammering action on
the pins and holes at higher flow rates.

 

[kennyd]

That is 100% correct. These are constant pressure pumps, but the flow varies with RPM.



I will disagree a little bit...The faster the hoe is operating, then the more it's is slammed around-especially by a new/inexperienced operator.

Did I miss something in the post about the backhoe? Aren't most of the newer tractors OC constant flow rather than CC constant pressure with variable displacement pumps?

Good catch. I certainly worded that incorrectly-sorry for the confusion. I have changed the wording.