Best way to secure tractor

[DMF]

What is the best way to secure a tractor to a trailer for hauling? Any photos would be helpful...

 

[jlsmith]

What tractor do u have

 

[DMF]

Massey Ferguson 1552 cab model. I have an 18' Hudson pro series trailer (16' deck with 2' beavertail) 4 ton capacity.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I use 4 individual 10' long tie downs from all 4 corners. My tractor has hooks on each back corner near the draw bar and on the front I replaced 2 of the mounting bolts for the FEL with forged hooks. I go out a about a 45 deg angle. I also throw a strap over whatever implement I have on the 3 point.

I also like backing my tractor on the trailer. It seems to ride better and balance the load better.

Chris

 

[brain55]

What is the best way to secure a tractor to a trailer for hauling? Any photos would be helpful...

There is no "one size fits all" answer to this question. Every tractor on every trailer is different, if you are looking for an answer better than "with chains and binders". If you post some pictures with the tractor on the trailer it would help a lot. It also matters what the laws are in your state. Here in California, "legally" you need 4 independent attachment points. You can use 2 chains but each tie down point has to have its own binder and if one comes undone it cannot affect the others.

Brian

 

[jlsmith]

You can get by with two chains. Take the first and run it over your grill gaurd and run t the front of the trail in a 45deg angle. For the back run the chain threw the tie down hole next to your draw bar and run them to the rear of the trailer in a 45 deg angle also. Use a rachet style boomer to tighten the chain. you will be just fine securing it like this.:thumbsup:

 

[Diamondpilot]

Here in California, "legally" you need 4 independent attachment points. You can use 2 chains but each tie down point has to have its own binder and if one comes undone it cannot affect the others.

Brian

Same in Indiana. I think the cut off is above 3,000#. Anything under that you can secure with twine from the steering wheel if you want. Just at Taco Bell for lunch today and seen a compactor that had to weight 800# secured to the trailer with 3 bungee cords. 2 from the front and 1 from the rear. Scary.

Chris

 

[DMF]

You can get by with two chains. Take the first and run it over your grill gaurd and run t the front of the trail in a 45deg angle. For the back run the chain threw the tie down hole next to your draw bar and run them to the rear of the trailer in a 45 deg angle also. Use a rachet style boomer to tighten the chain. you will be just fine securing it like this.:thumbsup:

I haven't moved my tractor yet but I move my friend's Ford 2010(?) a 40hp cab tractor and this is pretty much what I did for tieing it down. It seemed like a good way to bind it down to me (I even got some "squish" out of the rear tires) but I wanted to check here to see what you guys thought.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You can get by with two chains. Take the first and run it over your grill gaurd and run t the front of the trail in a 45deg angle. For the back run the chain threw the tie down hole next to your draw bar and run them to the rear of the trailer in a 45 deg angle also. Use a rachet style boomer to tighten the chain. you will be just fine securing it like this.:thumbsup:

I know its done all the time but 2 chains are only legal if they are not dependent on each other. Say you use one on the front and one on the rear. Lets say the rear one comes loose or breaks now the load can shift forward. The law around here is over 3,000# I think it must be for seperate tie downs. That way if one breaks like in the example I posted above you still have one preventing it from coming forward. This still can be done with 2 chains but you will need 4 binders and the chains must be secured in a fashion that its not dependent on the other.

Again, like I said its down the way you stated all the time and 99.9999% of the time nothing happens but its not legal. A easy fix is cut your chains in 1/2 then get hooks if you want to or not, you do not need them. 4 binders and you are good to go.

Chris

 

[brain55]

For the record, I hate ratcheting binders. I am never confident of how tight I have gotten them. Not to mention, half the time I go to use them they are rusted and won't move or they are collapsed all of the way and have to be unthreaded. I'm an over-center binder guy. I am always confident of how tight they are, get a piece of pipe and bind them down. I was taught to chain them down like you you were going to drive a hundred miles an hour. Of course the guy that taught me that figured that if the trailer touched the ground more than twice he was driving too slow. Not the recommended way to tow, but it did teach me to secure his load.

Brian

 

[jlsmith]

I know its done all the time but 2 chains are only legal if they are not dependent on each other. Say you use one on the front and one on the rear. Lets say the rear one comes loose or breaks now the load can shift forward. The law around here is over 3,000# I think it must be for seperate tie downs. That way if one breaks like in the example I posted above you still have one preventing it from coming forward. This still can be done with 2 chains but you will need 4 binders and the chains must be secured in a fashion that its not dependent on the other.

Again, like I said its down the way you stated all the time and 99.9999% of the time nothing happens but its not legal. A easy fix is cut your chains in 1/2 then get hooks if you want to or not, you do not need them. 4 binders and you are good to go.

Chris

Chris you are right in saying 4 is better. Where i live as long as its farm use u can use two. Anything commercialy you have to use 4.

 

[jlsmith]

For the record, I hate ratcheting binders. I am never confident of how tight I have gotten them. Not to mention, half the time I go to use them they are rusted and won't move or they are collapsed all of the way and have to be unthreaded. I'm an over-center binder guy. I am always confident of how tight they are, get a piece of pipe and bind them down. I was taught to chain them down like you you were going to drive a hundred miles an hour. Of course the guy that taught me that figured that if the trailer touched the ground more than twice he was driving too slow. Not the recommended way to tow, but it did teach me to secure his load.

Brian

Over the center binders are ok i just dont care for them. Seen too many people get their teeth knock out and also seen the binders snap loose. I dont have to worry about that with the ratchet ones. But to each their on.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Over the center binders are ok i just dont care for them. Seen too many people get their teeth knock out and also seen the binders snap loose. I dont have to worry about that with the ratchet ones. But to each their on.

Yep, that is why they make both types.

Chris

 

[Mace Canute]

For the people that don't like ratcheting load binders and want something safer than the regular "over center" knock-you-senseless-if-they-slip loadbinders, they do make "Safety Release Lever Loadbinders"

About halfway down this page they list one.

"This lever style binder design allows the user to release the binder tension without any kickback of the handle typical of a lever style binder. The center body of the binder independently rotates, free of the handle, to release the tension smoothly and easily. This makes it a safer binder to use than other lever style binders and eliminates the chance for injuries from the handle swinging with substantial force when released. Design Factor 3.5:1."

You should always securely fasten the handle to the main body when using lever style loadbinders...all it takes is a little piece of haywire. Some even have a built in tab that you can put a padlock on.

 

[grnspot110]

Over- center binders (boomers) will not come loose if they are in good shape and tightened enough!

And they'll only knock your teeth out if you get your teeth in the way!!!

I've always used them for the bigger tractors & equipment. Now that I don't have anything over 3000#, I use the 10,000# straps. ~~ grnspot110

 

[brain55]

Over- center binders (boomers) will not come loose if they are in good shape and tightened enough!

And they'll only knock your teeth out if you get your teeth in the way!!!

I've always used them for the bigger tractors & equipment. Now that I don't have anything over 3000#, I use the 10,000# straps. ~~ grnspot110

Exactly:thumbsup:

 

[jlsmith]

Over- center binders (boomers) will not come loose if they are in good shape and tightened enough!

And they'll only knock your teeth out if you get your teeth in the way!!!

I've always used them for the bigger tractors & equipment. Now that I don't have anything over 3000#, I use the 10,000# straps. ~~ grnspot110

Im glad u never had one come loose but over the last 17 years ive seen plenty of them pop loose that were plenty tight. Never said my way was the right way for everyone i just prefer the ratchet style.

 

[DMF]

I've used both types of binders and since I've found the ratcheting ones I can't see where I'd ever go back. I feel I can get them tighter than the over-the-center style and I keep all of that stuff in a tool box so having them rust and bind up shouldn't be an issue; they are very similar to a standard top link for tractor which often sit outside for years and still work...?

 

[MESSMAKER]

I back my tractor on. I secure the front with chains and rachet binders until the tractor moves. I then hook HD rachet straps to the front corner of the trailer and hook them on the drawbar frame. I then get on the tractor and drop the loader until it contacts the floor and make sure I set the brake. I then walk arond the trailer and check all 4 points to see that they are taunt.

 

[DMF]

At what weight do you guys feel chains are better than web straps, or, at what size or weight do you guys stop using straps and go to chains?