Box Blade on Bobcat

[qed-cat225]

What is the ideal setting on the Bobcat tractor for maximum scraping potential on a box blade, top link in which of the three positions and link extended or retracted or in between?

 

[Aaron_D]

I have to alter the top link length depending on what kind of scraping i am doing. When doing rough work i start with the top link in the shortest position with the rippers down, then finish up extending the top link to keep it fairly flush with the ground and pull the rippers up.

In a nutshell, lots of getting on and off the machine. I actually bought the rear hydraulic kit last week because of the box blade so i can run a hydraulic top link. I went in for forks and walked out with both. Just missing the top link and time to install the kit now.

 

[qed-cat225]

and what position low middle or high does the toplink go on the back of the tractor?

 

[xLearJockey]

and what position low middle or high does the toplink go on the back of the tractor?

Not meaning to sound condescending....but (isn't there always a "but"?<g>
Yours are questions to which there truly are no "right (or wrong) answers".
The "perfect angle" as well as the proper attachment point for the top link changes, literally, minute to minute depending on what you are doing There is only one way to know what it is and that's "seat time".
That's the bad news.
The good news is you've already been pointed in the right direction regarding the best bang for you buck you can possibly make in your quest to render the boxblade your new best bud - the hydraulic top link.
I spent about 8 hours over the last couple days rough and finish grading with my BB and probably adjusted the top link 200 times to the "perfect angle" for what I was trying to accomplish - not a chance in **** I would have made more than 20 adjustments if I had to leave the seat to adjust the screw.
Haven't done it yet, but my experience with the top link part of TnT (top and tilt) has made me a believer and proven the benefit of going all the way....hyd side link is on order.
Don't take my word for it, but do read up on the plethora of posts (search "top 'n tilt") - you'll have a hard time finding anyone who regrets having made the investment.

 

[Gittyup]

and what position low middle or high does the toplink go on the back of the tractor?

This will depend on what you are doing, and also how big the boxblade is relative to your tractor height. And if using with hydraulic top link you want to make sure not to put it where it can bind. The lower one gives a little more forward tilt and might dig better. the higher one gives you more adjustment for smoothing or digging less aggresively. . The degree of effect is probably closely related to how much difference there is in size between the BB and the tractor. But, I haven't found it to matter too much really and my boxblade is on the big side for my tractor. Me, I just use the middle position. Others might think differently

 

[NSBound]

Go grab a coffee, (or a beer ) and read through this link - there's several pages but I've marked it as a favourite and refer back to it from time to time - lots of good info. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/122762-beginners-guide-using-box-blade.html

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Haven't done it yet, but my experience with the top link part of TnT (top and tilt) has made me a believer and proven the benefit of going all the way....hyd side link is on order.
Don't take my word for it, but do read up on the plethora of posts (search "top 'n tilt") - you'll have a hard time finding anyone who regrets having made the investment.

If you don't mind me asking, what is your side link costing you?

 

[MESSMAKER]

I put the toplink in the lowest position. I shorten the link for ripping and set it level for grading.

 

[KiotiWhite]

If you don't mind me asking, what is your side link costing you?

Don't mind a bit - but never saw your post until now....sorry!
Anyway, events of the past couple months have overtaken my best intentions and I'm still sidelink "challenged" (as in sidelinkless).

Original order for the ram was "backordered" - expect delivery "next Tuesday". "next Tuesday" seemed to get recycled to mean "EVERY" next Tuesday.
I'll redact the name to protect the guilty but henceforth refer to them simply as the "Wimpy" (as in "gladly pay you next Tuesday for a hamburger today" Hydraulic Supply Company.

But, back to your original question.
Since I already have the second set of rear remotes (ordered on original tractor purchase - best decision I ever made) and associated plumbing, the only additional cost is the ram itself (~$150), a couple of short 1/4" hoses, and fittings.
Finally, my plan is to use the existing fixed side link - chop off the ends and weld them to the new ram. That's already been paid for (the link) and the chop and splice will cost only my time and a few rods - might be $50 - $100 if you'd have to find a "pro" to perform the operation.

Total it all up and I'd guestimate you're looking at a range of $200 - $300 - assuming one already has the RR's.

Once life returns to a close approximation of "normal" around here I'll renew the quest and start over from the beginning.
The one thing I know for sure is I kick myself every time I use the BB for still not having completed the project yet but, as they say, .....in due course.

As an aside, I purchased the top link from CCM and was pleased with both the quality and service they provided.
I elected not to go with them for the sidelink (if I recall theirs is ~$250-300) NOT because of $ but because I didn't want the check valve. (That's an argument with staunch proponents on both sides<g> but at this stage I might just bite the bullet and go that way and get it over with! <s>

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Don't mind a bit - but never saw your post until now....sorry!
Anyway, events of the past couple months have overtaken my best intentions and I'm still sidelink "challenged" (as in sidelinkless).

Total it all up and I'd guestimate you're looking at a range of $200 - $300 - assuming one already has the RR's.

Once life returns to a close approximation of "normal" around here I'll renew the quest and start over from the beginning.
The one thing I know for sure is I kick myself every time I use the BB for still not having completed the project yet but, as they say, .....in due course.

As an aside, I purchased the top link from CCM and was pleased with both the quality and service they provided.
I elected not to go with them for the sidelink (if I recall theirs is ~$250-300) NOT because of $ but because I didn't want the check valve. (That's an argument with staunch proponents on both sides<g> but at this stage I might just bite the bullet and go that way and get it over with! <s>

PM me if you want some help with this, I have the hydraulic you need in stock.

 

[Z RENCH]

and what position low middle or high does the toplink go on the back of the tractor?

I bought a hydraulic top link (CCM brand) for my CT335 and am forced to put it in the bottom setting cause the housing is too wide to go into the center or top cause it would hit the tractor top link bracket when the 3 pt. position would be from half way to all the way down.

 

[lilranch2001]

I bought a hydraulic top link (CCM brand) for my CT335 and am forced to put it in the bottom setting cause the housing is too wide to go into the center or top cause it would hit the tractor top link bracket when the 3 pt. position would be from half way to all the way down.

Is it because the clevis is too short?

I would think CCM would have designed around that if it is the case

:confused2:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I bought a hydraulic top link (CCM brand) for my CT335 and am forced to put it in the bottom setting cause the housing is too wide to go into the center or top cause it would hit the tractor top link bracket when the 3 pt. position would be from half way to all the way down.

Any chance of some pictures of the actual problem so that we can understand better? I have seen where you could not install a hydraulic top link in the middle or bottom holes due to possible binding, but never the other way around. :confused3: A few pictures would be worth a lot to many people.

 

[Z RENCH]

Yes it is cause the clevis is too short. If I turned it around, it would probably fit OK except the hoses would be moving in and out with the cylinder travel, and that would not be wise. I'll work on those pictures tomorrow. Over & Out.

 

[Z RENCH]

Here are the pics to my HTL dilemma. In the 1st pic you can see that the cylinder is wider than the top link bracket. In the 2nd pic, the HTL is in the lower hole and all the way down, free from hitting the top link bracket ( the original top link is in the upper hole so I have something to tether the HTL to when not in use.) In the 3rd pic you can see what happens when the HTL would be in the horizontal position or lower; when placed in the center hole (or the top hole) it would hit the bracket. If the clevis was longer or the cylinder were narrower, it would not hit. And O yeah the 4th pic, my new kitten Henry

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Z Rench, thanks for posting the pics. It is all so clear now. I never noticed how the top link bracket was sloped on the Kioti DK35 and Bobcat CT335. I think normally I have seen where all 3 holes are in a vertical position and there usually is no clearance problems with that mounting bracket.

Thanks again

 

[Z RENCH]

I think you have a point with the sloped bracket on these tractors:thumbsup:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I wonder if the next bigger size of tractors have the same type of bracket?

 

[jcims]

And O yeah the 4th pic, my new kitten Henry

Does Henry have family in Ohio?

She's a runt learning to hunt.

 

[galaxie428]

I can't see what is above the sloped bracket but seems like you could easily make another piece to pin on the existing sloped bracket that would have another set of holes verticle.

This is a little rough, not knowing exact dims but you get the idea. The bottom is your exisiting sloped bracket that you would make an additional welded assy that would pin on using the existing holes in your original bracket. This would leave all your holes verticle.