Dif-lock, I never use it?

[dodge man]

I have used the one on my BX 20 to 30 time since I've had it. I have also had mine where on rear wheel and one front wheel was up in the air, and even in 4 wheel drive it wouldn't move. Someone else described it like a tetter totter. The diff lock let me drive right out of it.

 

[KubieTwo]

I use mine all the time on the hills. If you are going down a steep hill that is fairly straight but steep it keeps both rear wheels holding back even if the slip a little. When engaging diff lock make sure you are not spinning your wheel then put a little pressure on the diff lock pedal and as you start applying a little power you will feel it engage, then let up and drive straight forward or as straight as you can. When the diff lock is engaged your rear differential is out of the picture.

The greatest point of clarification is that the engagement mechanically locks two axles together, so they must be moving at the same rpm or both stopped at time of engagement. Damage is done NOT because the diff lock is used when only one wheel had traction, but because the engagement was done while one was stopped and the other turning. The safest thing to do is to be sure both wheels are stopped before engaging. If that is consistently practiced, there will never be any damage to the tractor.

 

[poldies4]

I tried to use my dif lock today, and I really couldn't tell if it worked or not? Should it push to the floor? Mine seemed to go 3/4 or so down, but I could not "feel" it engage, or connect specifically. Am I missing something? Or does it not make a difference driving on flat easy ground? Someone in this thread had a good point about trying it and knowing how to use it so I thought I'd give it a shot.

 

[TripleR]

I tried to use my dif lock today, and I really couldn't tell if it worked or not? Should it push to the floor? Mine seemed to go 3/4 or so down, but I could not "feel" it engage, or connect specifically. Am I missing something? Or does it not make a difference driving on flat easy ground? Someone in this thread had a good point about trying it and knowing how to use it so I thought I'd give it a shot.

Usually I will have to apply slight pressure while moving very slowly and sometimes turning the steering wheel a little one way or the other. I can then feel when everything lines up and it engages. The pedal should go all the way down.

 

[Hugenpoet]

Only use it in the winter and during mud season when I get really stuck. Between the lift of the front loader, first gear in low range and lockin' the diff I've managed to get out of some very messy stuff every time.

 

[timswi]

In addition to all that has been said, my delaer said that you should use it on occasion to prevent it from freezing up.

 

[dex3361]

I tried to use my dif lock today, and I really couldn't tell if it worked or not? Should it push to the floor? Mine seemed to go 3/4 or so down, but I could not "feel" it engage, or connect specifically. Am I missing something? Or does it not make a difference driving on flat easy ground? Someone in this thread had a good point about trying it and knowing how to use it so I thought I'd give it a shot.

I think the best way for me to describe it is that the 2 gears may be right on top of each other so a little wheel slippage on 1 side with steady light pressure on the diff lock and you will feel it drop in. You don't want to engage it with the 1 wheel spinning hard or fast and slam the gears together.

 

[savageactor7]

Before I put chains on the front tires I probably used it half a doz times...maybe.

Pretty sure the book on ours recommends you only engage it if your stopped and not to turn, only go straight. I can't see any real torque being put on it if your stuck in a marsh...but that's that.

 

[Thomas]

Dif-lock good asset..can save a lot of extra work,also if one not paying attention cause a lot of extra work real quick..belly hung.

 

[radioman]

I tried to use my dif lock today, and I really couldn't tell if it worked or not? Should it push to the floor? Mine seemed to go 3/4 or so down, but I could not "feel" it engage, or connect specifically. Am I missing something? Or does it not make a difference driving on flat easy ground? Someone in this thread had a good point about trying it and knowing how to use it so I thought I'd give it a shot.

Not sure what kind of tractor you have, but when engaging the diff lock, never stand on it, there is no need for that much pressure.Try this, go to area of lawn you don't care about tearing up or a dirt spot. do a turn in there area and watch the tires, you will see the outside tire move faster then inside tire of the turn. stop. you just put heel on lever and push down till it stops and then slowly move forward with steady holding down on diff lock and wait anywhere from instant to a full turn of tires and it will suddenly drop pretty close to floor. when it drops, you know you engaged the diff lock. try making a turn and observe the feeling in steering and marks in lawn/dirt. you will see nearly both tires destroy the ground when turning and both tires are moving the exact same time. outside tires moves in unison as inside tire of the turn.

Now armed with this knowledge, this is why I wish all cars and trucks to have diff locks. I bet that if you ever get stuck, sometimes locking axles will get poeple out without assist. I know you can order it for the 4 wheel trucks, but mosts cars or rear driven wheel vehicles dont even have that option.

 

[Grateful11]

The greatest point of clarification is that the engagement mechanically locks two axles together, so they must be moving at the same rpm or both stopped at time of engagement. Damage is done NOT because the diff lock is used when only one wheel had traction, but because the engagement was done while one was stopped and the other turning. The safest thing to do is to be sure both wheels are stopped before engaging. If that is consistently practiced, there will never be any damage to the tractor.

That's right because if you think about it nearly all the weight is on the tire
that's not turning. Popping in the Diff. Lock would instant throw all that torque
onto the wheel that not spinning and has nearly all the weight on it.

A couple years ago in was in the Case IH 5140 2WD 100hp+ tractor and my
wife wanted me the get just a little closer to an area that is known to be wet
from time to time. Next thing I know I'm slowing down to a crawl in like 5
seconds and had a 15' disc harrow behind me. I immediately raised the disc
wheels and remembered from the manual that it said you had to be stopped
before engaging the Diff. Lock, which in this tractor is an electrical switch,
so I stopped turned on the Lock and moved forward about 2' and stopped,
used the power reverser to rock it back and forth and after about 10 tries I
got it out. I was like man I could have buried this thing. It was about the
second time I had ever used the tractor. This a cab tractor and you can't see
the wheels spinning at all from the cab. She and Dad ran everything here
until he passed recently.

 

[KubieTwo]

Usually I will have to apply slight pressure while moving very slowly and sometimes turning the steering wheel a little one way or the other. I can then feel when everything lines up and it engages. The pedal should go all the way down.

You are correct that it takes a little movement once you try to engage the diff lock. On the BX tractors it is not a fancy arrangement of clutches as some may think and they without understanding of the design step on the lever with wheel spinning under load and rip the edge out of the hole, damage the pin(s), etc. The system can withstand a few of these moves but continued misuse will take its toll. Think of it as similar to putting an auto transmission in park while still slowly moving.

It is very simply a pin (or set of pins) that must slip into place to lock one side gear to the pinion carrier so they cannot rotate independently as they usually do. The pin(s) and the holes have to align to allow the lock, so some rotation is required to move the parts into position....but this is why it should be done slowly rather than having one wheel spinning rapidly when the pin is perhaps only partially pushed into the hole.