Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck

[nickel plate]

As being an avid woodworker (from cruising sailboats to attachment dollies) I highly recommend their inexpensive cast iron and coated C-clamps. Most of mine are further coated with Gorilla glue and epoxy drippings but if you keep the clamp faces and thread surfaces clean and stored out of the weather, they will last a lifetime.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

As being an avid woodworker (from cruising sailboats to attachment dollies) I highly recommend their inexpensive cast iron and coated C-clamps. Most of mine are further coated with Gorilla glue and epoxy drippings but if you keep the clamp faces and thread surfaces clean and stored out of the weather, they will last a lifetime.

I've busted two. The threads can put more stress on the clamp than the cast iron will handle. I can't say if a name brand would be any better, though.

 

[Workstead]

HF 7-1/2" Metal Cutting Saw Blade

Short story - thumbs up for the blade. Now the rest of the story:

I've heard good and bad things about cutting metal with the HF cold metal cutting blade and a regular wood cutting circular saw. Well, I have an old saw I picked up at a yard sale quite some time ago for $3 and I bought the HF 7-1/2" Metal Cutting blade for $17.99 less 20% with coupon,

My test project was a piece of 8" pipe that is the vertical support for my grinder. The pipe is welded to a truck rim and is as solid as can be because the pipe is about 1/4" thick.

The big truck rim wasn't very easy to move around the shop so I put it on a barrel dolly with 5" wheels. This made it too high for easy use of the grinder. But, it sure makes it easy to move around the shop.

Now I need to cut about 5" off of the pipe. The stand is awkward so the circular saw with the new cold cutting metal saw blade gets a chance to show it's stuff. The stand wouldn't fit across my 4 X 6 metal cutting horizontal bandsaw, would be awkward to use my metal chop saw and I have a hard time getting a nice straight cut with a recip saw. I don't have a plasma cutter (yet) and I don't know how to use my O/A torch. No way was I going to use a hacksaw.

The first picture shows the saw and blade after it has started to cut the pipe. The second picture shows a nickel on top of the cut pipe edge leaning against a welding magnet (with metal dust and a paper staple), to show the scale of nickel to pipe thickness.

It didn't cut like a knife going through hot butter but it sure was easy to cut by going slowly, keeping the blade on the line (for the most part) and being patient. It took a few minutes but the cut was smooth, and cool to the touch as soon as I finished cutting. The saw didn't get hot and there were few sparks as it cut. This saw didn't capture the metal chips like the purpose built saws do, but the chips were mostly contained at the saw exhaust and made a pile on the floor under the cut. I wore a full clear face shield but didn't feel or hear any chips hit the shield. There were no carbide teeth mixed in with the chips, all were still connected to the saw blade.

I am impressed with the cutting ability of the blade. The purpose built metal cutting circular saws turn about 3600 rpm. My saw is 5400 rpm as compared to most saws 5800 rpm. The blade is rated for 5800 rpm. I have another saw that is 4900 rpm that needs a brush in the motor that I will try after I install the brush.

Conclusion: The metal cutting blade doesn't suck.

Clem

 

[patrick_g]

HF 7-1/2" Metal Cutting Saw Blade

Short story - thumbs up for the blade.

Conclusion: The metal cutting blade doesn't suck.

Clem

It would be nice to have a blade like that to fit the standard 14 inch chop saw.

Pat

 

[arrow]

HF 7-1/2" Metal Cutting Saw Blade




Short story - thumbs up for the blade. Now the rest of the story:

I've heard good and bad things about cutting metal with the HF cold metal cutting blade and a regular wood cutting circular saw. Well, I have an old saw I picked up at a yard sale quite some time ago for $3 and I bought the HF 7-1/2" Metal Cutting blade for $17.99 less 20% with coupon,

My test project was a piece of 8" pipe that is the vertical support for my grinder. The pipe is welded to a truck rim and is as solid as can be because the pipe is about 1/4" thick.

The big truck rim wasn't very easy to move around the shop so I put it on a barrel dolly with 5" wheels. This made it too high for easy use of the grinder. But, it sure makes it easy to move around the shop.

I wonder how it would do with half inch material. I have a 4 way wedge that I would like to cut down.
Now I need to cut about 5" off of the pipe. The stand is awkward so the circular saw with the new cold cutting metal saw blade gets a chance to show it's stuff. The stand wouldn't fit across my 4 X 6 metal cutting horizontal bandsaw, would be awkward to use my metal chop saw and I have a hard time getting a nice straight cut with a recip saw. I don't have a plasma cutter (yet) and I don't know how to use my O/A torch. No way was I going to use a hacksaw.

The first picture shows the saw and blade after it has started to cut the pipe. The second picture shows a nickel on top of the cut pipe edge leaning against a welding magnet (with metal dust and a paper staple), to show the scale of nickel to pipe thickness.

It didn't cut like a knife going through hot butter but it sure was easy to cut by going slowly, keeping the blade on the line (for the most part) and being patient. It took a few minutes but the cut was smooth, and cool to the touch as soon as I finished cutting. The saw didn't get hot and there were few sparks as it cut. This saw didn't capture the metal chips like the purpose built saws do, but the chips were mostly contained at the saw exhaust and made a pile on the floor under the cut. I wore a full clear face shield but didn't feel or hear any chips hit the shield. There were no carbide teeth mixed in with the chips, all were still connected to the saw blade.

I am impressed with the cutting ability of the blade. The purpose built metal cutting circular saws turn about 3600 rpm. My saw is 5400 rpm as compared to most saws 5800 rpm. The blade is rated for 5800 rpm. I have another saw that is 4900 rpm that needs a brush in the motor that I will try after I install the brush.

Conclusion: The metal cutting blade doesn't suck.

Clem

I wonder how it would do with 1/2" material. I have a 4 way wedge I'd like to cut down.

 

[dex3361]

I wonder how it would do with 1/2" material. I have a 4 way wedge I'd like to cut down.

I have the HF circular cold saw(http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=8897&submit2=find+it) and I have cut 3/4 with it though I wouldn't do it on a regular basis. I like you am waiting for HF to start selling the 14" chop saw type cold saw. I have a thread with pics of the 3/4 thick metal cut(its actualy over 1" where it cut through the weld) http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...0491911-have-you-tried-hf-metal-hpim1808b.jpg. I was so impressed that I made a thread about it.

 

[jinman]

I think your blade and cut look very nice, but the real proof of the blade's worth is with multiple cuts. $14 for a single cut is pretty expensive. If you make 10 cuts like that, the blade is surely a good deal.

 

[dex3361]

I think your blade and cut look very nice, but the real proof of the blade's worth is with multiple cuts. $14 for a single cut is pretty expensive. If you make 10 cuts like that, the blade is surely a good deal.

I have made probably 20 or more cut on 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 bar stock but only 2 cuts on the
3/4 + and it still cuts so I bought another blade before everybody finds out and I cant get another for a while. So to Quote you Jim "its a good deal" and from HF too.

 

[psj12]

I too would like to see the 14" chop saw version. I have used a 14" made by DeWalt at work but my pocket cannot stand the price of DeWalt tools.

 

[drgill]

I just bought the 13 drawer roll cabinet (item number 90320). The quality is good. It compares favorably to the high end craftsmen boxes. They are having a three day sale that ends 1/18/2010.

Cheers,

Dennis

 

[wedge40]

Drove up to HF yesterday because I wanted to pick up a couple of things I seen in a catalog I got in the mail last week. The catalog listed both at $29.99 and when I got to the store and found the items in the self, each was listed for $59.99. 30 bucks difference each. I had forgot to put the catalog in the car with me. A major no-no for any trip to HF. So believe it or not I left HF without spending a dime. It almost seems like a sin to do such a thing but I will be heading back up this weekend WITH catalog in hand.

Good thing the Prius get 50MPG +

Wedge

 

[Bedlam]

I wonder if you asked them if they would 'honor' your word for it being int the catalog? Id think they would have the catalog in the computer either way.

 

[BigE_]

They generally look at you blankly around here if you say you forgot your catalog or coupon. Heck, I brought in my coupon on my cell phone because I forgot to print it out, and I've got email on my cell. They almost didn't honor it.

Other tools that don't suck: I just bought the $20 compression tester last night. Tried it out and got the same results that the mechanic got using his high dollar compression tester. Forgot my stinkin 15% off coupon, but it would cost me that much in gas to go back and print it out.

Also, just a side note, it looks like they are closing out on hydraulic hoses and connections. All the hydraulic connections are selling for $0.87 each, and the hoses are less than $5. These are 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4", with the mesh protection around the hose. I don't have a current use, but may go back and pick some up.

 

[gpflepsen]

I went to HF to get a 50' 3/8 air hose reel and the price in the store was $10 higher than the web price. I took my cell to the checkout with the webpage loaded and they took the screen display price and charged accordingly. Gotta love the smart phones!

 

[wedge40]

These prices were even lower than anything listed online. And I'm not sure if pulling it up on me cell would have worked. Even though I did do a search while I was eating lunch with idea of going back if I could have gotten the same prices.

Wedge
PS I'll post some item numbers.

 

[lakngulf]

I have made probably 20 or more cut on 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 bar stock but only 2 cuts on the
3/4 + and it still cuts so I bought another blade before everybody finds out and I cant get another for a while. So to Quote you Jim "its a good deal" and from HF too.

What is the best method to cut roofing metal (tin)? I have several angle cuts to make to snug tin to a ridge in my tractor shed.

Would this type of metal blade be overkill?

 

[IslandTractor]

What is the best method to cut roofing metal (tin)? I have several angle cuts to make to snug tin to a ridge in my tractor shed.

Would this type of metal blade be overkill?

I thought tin snips or shears were appropriate for flashing and other roofing and gutter metals.

 

[lakngulf]

I thought tin snips or shears were appropriate for flashing and other roofing and gutter metals.

Flashing and gutter....yes. But I will have to cut almost every piece of tin at an angle. Was looking for a method to save my thumb.

 

[winston1]

What is the best method to cut roofing metal (tin)? I have several angle cuts to make to snug tin to a ridge in my tractor shed.

Would this type of metal blade be overkill?

A nibbler. Harbor Freight 46061-ovga. That is an air nibbler. I don't think they sell an electric. For a neat straight cut that is the proper tool.

 

[horsebroke]

I'm a regular HF shopper. For the average homeowner/handyman, HF stuff works most of the time. But much of the HF stuff isn't really suitable for professional mechanic. Good for occasional use - but not hard/continuous use. (IMHO).

FYI - I'm a regular subscriber to a number of handyman type magazines - like "Discover", "Popular Mechanics", "Popular Science", etc.

When you get a chance, take a look in one - near the back will be a HF full-page advertisement, including a 20% off coupon!. Check it out. Since I subscribe to several of these mags, I have LOTS of these coupons and I make it a point to keep them in my car.

The coupons DO have expiration dates, though but they're typically a couple months at least.