New Owner - tire, chain, scraper questions

[ChrisC]

Hi all - just purchased a used Kubota B2910 with FEL. Came with a brush hog and used it to cut the fields. The tractor came with turf tires and as I get ready for winter, I have a few questions.

Our property is pretty hilly. I plan to use the tractor to mow the fields 2x a year. I also plan to use the tractor for snow removal. Our driveway is 200-300' long and flat. It is not paved. I plan to get a scraper blade to remove snow. Scrape it out of the way and use the bucket if the piles get too big and I need to "relocate" them. There is a bit of a rise from where the tractor will be parked to the driveway.

I'd also plan to use the tractor to help with pulling cordwood from the land 蔓possibly pulling trees to a landing.

Turf tires worked fairly well for mowing the field. There were one or two spots that were pretty wet and I avoided them so that I wouldn't get stuck (again, first time using the tractor).

My question:

Do I need to get new tires? I have concerns about the turf tires for snow removal. I'm pretty certain they wouldn't cut it in the woods with snow on the ground. Can I get away with chains, or do I need to go with ag tires (or ag tires with chains)? I'll need new rims for ag tires, and it's getting pretty pricey (tractor, plus pole barn for the tractor, plus new tires and rims... )

I've been lurking here for a while and I appreciate the great information.

Chris

 

[Pipestone Kid]

I don't know if your tractor is four wheel drive, but if it is, turf tires will be fine. I have about five hundred feet of drive and it is up a pretty steep hill (both ways ) and my turf tires do just fine. We get lots of snow and I have never had any problem. When I first bought the tractor I asked the dealer to price out chains and his response was that if I ever needed chains he would give them to me. He was right. There has been times when I started to spin and the I realized I was in two wheel. HTH

 

[ChrisC]

Thanks for the quick reply. That's good to know about plowing the driveway.

What about working in the woods during the winter?

 

[Diamondpilot]

The turfs will be fine for snow removal if its not steep but the rest of the work you may as well forget it. I would get some R'1 for winter use and pulling the wood. You get the turfs full of snow and they will be like trying to use your car to pull wood.

Chris

 

[lungdoc]

I'd suggest chains as a first step - make a huge difference and not a huge cost versus new tires. Turfs are generally felt to be good on snow and not sure how much difference underlying tire type makes once you add chains. I would question turfs in bush conditions with respect to mud or punctures (e.g. sharp sticks, rocks) where R4's are best for toughness, R1's best for grip in mud.

 

[arrow]

I feel turf tires and chains are one of the most versatile set ups a person can have. This is especially so if you load your rears with beet juice or calcium cloride ( definitely use tubes if you go the cc route). Put chains on all fours with 4wd and you should go just about anywhere you want in the woods. Get chains that have double cross links and they'll give the tires good protection as lungdoc makes a good point about tire toughness when in the wood. Chains on all 4's made my tractor a different tractor in the woods during skidding operations and I have R1's which has much less chain to ground contact than chains on turfs. They also made a huge difference with snow and I have the same set up you are thinking about for your tractor. There's a picture of a member digging a ditch with his fel in the sloppiest goo you can imagine . He has turfs with chains on. (was that yours Egon?) Take the chains off and you can still use your tractor on the grass. Something I cannot do with R1's

 

[radioman]

I'd vote for chains, but I really think you should run the winter as is. you would want to learn how your tractor handle in default mode. You might have trouble with no chains since you would be pulling the snow with a rear blade instead of pushing it. remember if you do get stuck- always think hydraulics. for example, if you are driving down the driveway with rear blade pulling snow off to the side and its the wet heavy kind and its deep and you get stuck. no problem- just lift the back blade to put wieght on the rear tires, use the FEL to crab your way back out. The crabbing procedure is curl bucket almost all the way forward. lower the ground into the ground and curl "up" while driving backwards. you will find 99.99% of time you will always be able to get out with no problems. Once you get out, you have the FEL to scoop up the wet stuff and move it.

Since you have 4 wheel drive, most of the time you should be fine. Where are you located? Are your rears loaded ? if not you might want to do that before the snow falls. They do help.

 

[brandoro]

I'm on my third tractor with unloaded turfs and have never owned chains. I have been stuck twice, enough to need a pull, over the years. I think I would have been stuck regardless of the type of tires both those times, just stuck worse as a more aggresive tire tends to dig a hole a lot faster. Nice thing about turfs is they don't tend to dig holes.
I use a blower to clear snow so don't need as much traction as you will using a blade. I do like to go into the forest with the tractor at all times of the year, so far I have never had to walk back, the turfs have always managed to pull through with the front wheel assist and occasionally the differential lock. Using the FEL to push back out of a tough spot is a good thing to be aware of too.
I agree, try your first winter with the tractor as is and see how it does. Depending on your snow conditions there is a good chance the turfs will do well. Where I live the winters tend to be cold and the snow fairly dry, good snow conditions for turfs.
If you fill out your profile so we know the area you live in it will help the rest of us give you more informed advice.

 

[Pipestone Kid]

I'm on my third tractor with unloaded turfs and have never owned chains. I have been stuck twice, enough to need a pull, over the years. I think I would have been stuck regardless of the type of tires both those times, just stuck worse as a more aggresive tire tends to dig a hole a lot faster. Nice thing about turfs is they don't tend to dig holes.
I use a blower to clear snow so don't need as much traction as you will using a blade. I do like to go into the forest with the tractor at all times of the year, so far I have never had to walk back, the turfs have always managed to pull through with the front wheel assist and occasionally the differential lock. Using the FEL to push back out of a tough spot is a good thing to be aware of too.
I agree, try your first winter with the tractor as is and see how it does. Depending on your snow conditions there is a good chance the turfs will do well. Where I live the winters tend to be cold and the snow fairly dry, good snow conditions for turfs.
If you fill out your profile so we know the area you live in it will help the rest of us give you more informed advice.

My sentiments,exactly!

 

[Diamondpilot]

My sentiments,exactly!

I think tires have a lot to do with dirt type and snow type. I can tell you for a fact where I live turfs would not cut it. Our snow is very wet and sticky. R4's are not much better than turfs because they just load up and turn to slicks. Same thing with our dirt. There is no rock, just sticky top soil with no sand or loom then 4" down even sticker clay. The only choice is R1's unless you are talking a 20,000# piece of equipment. Chains if its ice on any tire still rules the roost.

Chris

 

[mostly_gas]

I think tires have a lot to do with dirt type and snow type. I can tell you for a fact where I live turfs would not cut it. Our snow is very wet and sticky. R4's are not much better than turfs because they just load up and turn to slicks. Same thing with our dirt. There is no rock, just sticky top soil with no sand or loom then 4" down even sticker clay. The only choice is R1's unless you are talking a 20,000# piece of equipment. Chains if its ice on any tire still rules the roost.

Chris

I have 4WD and R1 and still got stuck pulling trailer with wood back to the woos pile. Chains will make a big help but as pointed out will dig faster during wheel spin. Going to R1 will do more damage during mowing. BTW used an 8N(vintage 2WD tractor) on a 200' driveway w/ 10% average slope with a rear blade no chains for years. with the wet snow weight added to the blade helps. Didn't mess with ice sleet etc with no FEL. Hope this helps

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have 4WD and R1 and still got stuck pulling trailer with wood back to the woos pile. Chains will make a big help but as pointed out will dig faster during wheel spin. Going to R1 will do more damage during mowing. BTW used an 8N(vintage 2WD tractor) on a 200' driveway w/ 10% average slope with a rear blade no chains for years. with the wet snow weight added to the blade helps. Didn't mess with ice sleet etc with no FEL. Hope this helps

I have only gotten my tractor stuck 1 time digging a grave for a horse with the FEL. I have 600 plus hours on this tractor and we have had as much as 27" of snow on the ground at 1 time in a 24 hour period. I have a 28HP tractor with the tires loaded, rear wheel weights, 4 front suitcase weights, and a FEL. It weighs about 5,200# with the snow plow on it and 7' rear grader blade.

I mow with this rig also using a 6' Caroni RFM. It does not harm the turfs one bit. Just do not go in when wet plus my tractor will go places my neighbors could not even think of using turfs and R4's. I get called to plow my neighbors 1/2 mile of drive because his JD 35ish HP tractor with R4's can not do it.

Here is a picture of my rig but I still had the mower on the back. Also a picture of my last big snow which was 18". I can plow my 280' long drive in about 15 minutes tops.

Chris

 

[PILOON]

Good set of ladder chains with crosses at every 3rd link (usually they are at every 5).
Makes for a nice smooth ride and does not 'slip grab' as there is always one link in contact with the ground.
Optional (and more $$) would be ice grippers, either V bars or welded studs with latter mor costly. The welded studded types are hadened and great for asphalt and other high wear surfaces.

Turfs are easier to chain while R1's and R4's more difficult due to the deep treads.

So; keep your turfs and invest in chains and use the saved $$ to buy another piece of equipment!

Have fun!, er don't work to hard.

 

[CharlieR]

Ditto on keeping the turfs and using chains.
You'll need chains for snow and ice anyway and these go onto turfs easier and should give a better bite with them too.
Good logging chains might be best in the woods but are hard to find for CUT size tires and they are very, very expensive.
Go for 2-link chains, one cross chain every two side links for best cost versus traction.

 

[arrow]

I think tires have a lot to do with dirt type and snow type. I can tell you for a fact where I live turfs would not cut it. Our snow is very wet and sticky. R4's are not much better than turfs because they just load up and turn to slicks. Same thing with our dirt. There is no rock, just sticky top soil with no sand or loom then 4" down even sticker clay. The only choice is R1's unless you are talking a 20,000# piece of equipment. Chains if its ice on any tire still rules the roost.

Chris

Absolutely correct on this one Chris. Types of soil and weight of equipment along how you are using attachments all paint the picture differently. The op is looking for quite the spread in versatility and his cutting I think is for his lawn. If that's the case, turfs with chains should cover his needs quite nicely. Love the pics by the way. Is that the Northern Products tractor? What size rear tires came with this?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Absolutely correct on this one Chris. Types of soil and weight of equipment along how you are using attachments all paint the picture differently. The op is looking for quite the spread in versatility and his cutting I think is for his lawn. If that's the case, turfs with chains should cover his needs quite nicely. Love the pics by the way. Is that the Northern Products tractor? What size rear tires came with this?

Yes and no. All these Chinese tractors are made by 3 or so big companies. Jinma is the largest and most popular. That is what Northern's tractors are and that is what mine is. Mine is a 2003 rated at 25HP but I put it on a pto dyno and it turned 31. Its very strong. I also have a Ford 861 gas that is 45 HP but 2 wheel drive and this Jinma will out work it any day. So far I have had good luck. Getting close to 700 hours and only replaced the starter and the thermostat due to failure.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

Absolutely correct on this one Chris. Types of soil and weight of equipment along how you are using attachments all paint the picture differently. The op is looking for quite the spread in versatility and his cutting I think is for his lawn. If that's the case, turfs with chains should cover his needs quite nicely. Love the pics by the way. Is that the Northern Products tractor? What size rear tires came with this?

I forgot to answer you last question. It has 9.5x24 ags on the rear and 6x16 ags on the front.

Chris

 

[Scotty370]

I run chains on my small JD318 year round. Obviously my country lawn isn't a golf green. In the winter the tractor comes home for snowblower use. I've found this site helpful if you go the chain route: Tire Chains by TireChains.com

 

[arnoldziffel17]

I live in the western new york area and own a John Deere 4510 and use it all year around. One of the things that I found is that it is a little "light" and wants to slide while mowing on the side hills and around my pond. After moving the tires to the outside position, it offered a lot more stability. I run R series industrial tires all around with chains only on the back. Chains will grab just about anything but you need a little "give" when running 4WD in the woods to haul out logs for fire wood. I live on a south facing hillside and plow about 750ft of gravel drive way, the chains help a great deal down at the roadway when the road and driveway ice up, my JD1010 2 WD tractor with no chains , does nothing more than polish the pavement once it ices up. I suspect your turf tires will have the same problem. One thing to check though, make sure that there is enought clearance between inside of the fender well and the tire. I run field chains and it is pretty close to the fender well. I am not a fan of cc filled tires, only because of what I have seen the damage done with the inevitable leaks. As far as using a "scraper" to plow out your drive way, I am not sure if you are referring to a scraper blade or a box style scraper. The scraper blade is the least expensive way to go, but you will find it of limited use without any down pressure or weight. If you haven't bought the blade yet, you might consider purchasing a box style scraper. The box style weighs more and is a lot more versatile and costs only couple of hundred dollars more. I use my box style scraper most of the year, putting a 6 ft 2 stage blower on for the winter. I find the box scraper most usefull when hauling logs out of the woods, instead of dragging the logs with the drawbar . I have chain hooks welded onto the bar that runs from side to side, this allows you to chain hook the logs to the bar arnd transfer the weight of the log end to rear wheels with the 3pt hitch. It also keeps most of the log from picking up the rocks and mud that destroy the chainsaw chain. I have had 2each 18" dia. by 40 ft ash logs hanging off of the box scraper and pull very nicely over 1000Ft out of the woods. One thing I might suggest for plowing snow, find a old snowplow blade , usually a $100 by the roadside, and attach it to your front bucket. If you don't have the bucket, you will need to fabricate a frame to attach it to your tractor. I only mention it because I got bad crick in my neck , turned around watching where the blade goes when you are plowing snow. Sorry about being long winded, hope the suggestions help.