Rear Finishing Mower- Do You?

[bp fick]

I have been giving some thought to a RFM. First, I have questions for the guys who already use them. Since you drive over the grass before the mower gets a chance to cut it, does the lift of the mower do a good job of standing the blades back up before the cut? So you find the finished look to rival a MMM or Zero turn? Does the RFM follow the tractor well? How do you dodge trees, well heads and the like?

What RPM do you run your engine? What ground speed works the best?

All these questions, I know. I am starting from absolutely ground zero, informationally on this deal. Appreciate the input.

 

[wushaw]

RFM works great and will rivial a ZTR for finish. I would suggest a rear discharge unit. The RFM I had did a great job but I had too many trees so I went with a ZTR.

 

[zzvyb6]

I have a 84" LandPride rear finish mower, a 72" MMM and a F935 front mounted 72" mower. The rear mower is rear discharge (as opposed to a side discharge). It does a very good job of finish cutting my ~3 acres of lawn. I also use it for trimming the hay fields and pastures. With "high lift" blades, the heavy tractor wheel paths can't be found in the trail. I always run at 540 rpm (as recommended). I currently have Gator brand blades on it. They have shredding teeth cut into the blade wing. This aids in shredding, but cuts down on the lift. This is for field use, mainly. The rear mower is a bit harder to control because of the distance behind the rear wheels. I've broken a few fence posts trying to cut too close. But, the deck side makes up for these sins. I also have a 72" MMM that I used to operate all the time. Its a side discharge, so I am able to hook it up to my leaf vaccuum. Its a lot better to handle around fence posts, trees, the well head, etc. But the downside is that its a P.I.T.A. to install and remove. I had to buy the MM pto shaft kit for it. Since I also do hay cutting and baling a few times a year, I can't leave the MMM on the tractor when haying because the mower ground clearence when raised is too low. Grass looks nice, though. Better still is my diesel F935 72" front mount. Great fuel consumption. Goes faster that I need to drive, safe on hillsides, hooks up to leaf vacuum an has soft wide tires on it to keep from rutting the lawn. My rear and MMM mower tractor has ag tires on it. As with the other mowers, running at full rpm is the manufacturer's recommendation to keep suction up and blade speed up. The F935 mower deck is offset a bit to the left, so you can duck under the evergreens without getting a facefull of needles or hurting the tree. Yes, its a separate motored machine that only does grass cutting. I've toyed with the idea of putting the 72" mmm deck into the front end loader frame to make it a front mower unit. But, that's no longer necessary to bother with. I have hundreds of evergreens in various stages of growth, so I'm sensitive to accidently wacking them with the MMM or the rear finishing mower. The fact that the F935 is a diesel seals the deal for me. It just sips juice. Its an almost zero turn deal and can be zero turned with separate Left/Right brake pedal applies.

Hope that gives you some insight. If you need a tractor for doing other things that only a tractor can do, fine, rear mowers are good low cost solutions. But if you are only cutting grass, pushing a snow blade or snow blower, get a front attachment machine. It will save your neck bones muscles for future use.

 

[EddieWalker]

I have a 6ft rotary mower, also known as a bush hog, a 7ft side discharge finish mower with three blades, and a 5ft zero turn mower with three blades.

The rotary cutter is just for cutting the grass when it's a foot tall, or taller. It gets the job done, and from a distance, it's OK looking. It cuts the grass down to about four inches tall, give or take a bit. It's not a very even cut, but it's much nicer then nothing.

My finish mower does a very nice job of cutting my pastures. It will cut it down to 2 inches tall, and it's very flat and even. I can't go any lower with it becuause it's so wide and my fields are not flat enough to avoid scalping. I tried, but I kept hitting dirt, so I got it up to where I can go and not hit dirt. It's my favorite cutter. It's fast and easy to use. Unlike the rotary cutter, those four wheels do allot to keep it on the ground, and I never have to adjust it.

My zero turn is in another league. It's cutting the grass at an inch. It's a beautul cut that I really like. It goes where I can't get the tractor, and it turns on a dime. I use it for my front yard, my driveway and my entrance. If I'm having people over for a party or something, I'll run it around my lake a few times to get the grass really short for walking on. It's not as fast as the rear finish mower behind my tractor, and you have to mow once a week for it to be effective. It will cut taller grass, but there is a huge difference in the results if I miss a week.

I stop mowing over the winter months. Then in spring, I'm slow to get started in mowing. Mostly because it's not really needed, but also because I like to see the wildflowers bloom. My first cutting is usually with the rotary cutter. Then a week or a few weeks later, I'll start using the rear finish mower for the rest of the year, about once a month. The zero turn is used once a week, and takes about an hour to get done what I want done.

Both my rotary cutter and rear finish mower are Landpride. My zero turn is a Scag.

Eddie

 

[TripleR]

I have been driving tractors all of my life and I have still managed to whack a well head or two, so I only use a MMM in my yard, but my RFM is seven foot.

While I don't care to use one for my lawn, they can work well for some people and I always got a good quality cut with mine.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Do you plan on using it on your BX1860? If so, some considerations. If you get one to big and do other than flat land it can swing your tractor around by it's weight. I have a 6' Landpride that will swing my B model tractors around when I reach the bottom of the hill. I know it's going to do it so it's not a problem. I had a Jolie? brand before which was a lighter weight and was breaking on a regular basis. It didn't swing tractor. But it was crap (breaking) for my yard/usage. I also don't have a golf course smooth yard. I personally like the RFM with rear discharge and I like how easy it is to hook up and unhook. I like the cut it gives. I also have cut some things I didn't plan on cutting just like I scraped/hit some thing with the FEL bucket that I didn't plan on scraping/hitting. I also bump things with the rear end of my F2680 when I make turns to close. I don't use my Landpride any more due to having a BX2660 with MMM that's mostly dedicated to mowing at home and getting closer to house and yard stuff that's not supposed to be mowed. Again, the rear weight sticking out in the back for several feet is some what like the FEL bucket sticking out several feet in front of the center weight of the tractor so affects stability good or bad which is more noticeable on not level ground. Lowered RFM feels better stable wise but raised can tighten muscles. Match weight to your tractor if you go that way but the pretty weld seams and light weight ones,,,,,well you decide. The Landpride is built like a tank with very obvious welds which many on this site think is bad but it's great for me after having a pretty one.

 

[bp fick]

'Morning John, Yes, I would pull it with my BX. I would also likely use a 48" Landpride, or one recommended for my machine.

I'm not in any rush, just pondering the issues of actually using one around trees and other obstacles. We don't have golf course grass either. Not even close. But still, a nice cut is important.

I am going to assume that a RFM was designed to work in more wide open spaces? If its use would require a bunch of time trimming up afterward, around trees, well heads, decks, buildings, fence lines, etc, then I would continue pondering some more.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I'm going for the it's designed for more wide open spaces theory.

 

[firefighter jim]

Rear finish mower that I have does a nice job (Bush Hog brand RDTH60). One thing to keep in mind with the rear mounted mowers is the swing of the unit out back when you turn. Mid mount mower obviously you don't have to worry about that.

 

[bp fick]

I'm going for the it's designed for more wide open spaces theory.

Otherwise, for close in work its pretty much the big bang theory?

 

[BigD23]

I use a MMM and a RFM as well...The RFM is nice to be able to back into berry vines and such to get a whack at 'em.

Don

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Otherwise, for close in work its pretty much the big bang theory?

Depends on your depth perception and coordination. I have a small slice in my vinyl siding on the back side of my garage. Also included pictures of my tractor storage bldg. Sometimes I get distracted which is really dangerous with an extra 5' to 6' hanging out behind you and your close to something on your side. A slight turn is a major turn at the rear end. Also applies to front bucket.

 

[bp fick]

Thanks everyone.

I should have added this. There will be no MMM mounted on my tractor. Period. I am not taking that off and on, end of story. Got a MMM on my riding mower so I don't, won't need one on my BX. The BX has to get into the gardens, which I do big time, so it has to be able to go in the dirt at all times.

I was just pondering the RFM on this snowy day. I have already learned alot from your responses. Didn't have clue one about using one, but would like to learn more, for future pondering sake.

What I know, I knows well. What I don't know, I don't at all.

 

[m7040]

Have a 15 ft rfm made by Wood. Works really well usually do it at 3.5 miles per hour so able to cover the area really quick

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Thanks everyone.

I should have added this. There will be no MMM mounted on my tractor. Period. I am not taking that off and on, end of story. Got a MMM on my riding mower so I don't, won't need one on my BX. The BX has to get into the gardens, which I do big time, so it has to be able to go in the dirt at all times.

I was just pondering the RFM on this snowy day. I have already learned alot from your responses. Didn't have clue one about using one, but would like to learn more, for future pondering sake.

What I know, I knows well. What I don't know, I don't at all.

Since you feel as I do about removing MMM and you have another mower for close up to house and trees mowing then I think it's an idea to persue. They mow good and hook up and unhook easy.

 

[savageactor7]

since '92 been using a 72" Woods RM600 that pulls the grass up for a nice wheel mark free cut. Just had the under deck cowlings rebuilt for the maximum pull up force. And in some areas we cut to fairway height.

imo 3PH is the way to go if you're a small operator but desirous of owning lots of attachments. 3PH for me is easy on/off folks with MMMs are always d!cking them up going into the woods with them cause they're too hard to take off. I'd rather have a case of the clap than a MMM.

 

[missourithunder]

savageactor7 wrote - I'd rather have a case of the clap than a MMM."

Well said.

bp, check out the woods 54" RFM. This is what my dealer highly recommended and I haven't been disappointed. I mow grass in road gear with the throttle wide open (3100 rpm). It just takes a little situational awareness to know your surroundings and get the feel of mowing to your rear. As I approach an obsticle (tree, fence, BFR, etc) I slow down. It's just like learning how to back a trailer with your pick-up. Once you get the hang of it, man it's a blast. I'll admit I've got a few scratches on the passenger side of my RFM but that was within the first few weeks. It's almost become a game of how close I can get my tooth bar to stabbing a tree before turning the wheel hard.

I can negotitate just about anything while mowing now. Of course, now I'm going to learn how to push and pull snow with my loader and rear blade when we get our first snow.

MT

 

[ChuckinNH]

I have a friend that uses the Woods 54" Estate series rfm on his BX to mow his Christmas tree plantation. He likes it a lot, and puts a lot of hours on it. He needed the rear discharge since grass clippings will kill the needles on the lower branches of his trees. NOT good when raising Christmas Trees.

 

[Volfandt]

since '92 been using a 72" Woods RM600 that pulls the grass up for a nice wheel mark free cut. Just had the under deck cowlings rebuilt for the maximum pull up force. And in some areas we cut to fairway height.

imo 3PH is the way to go if you're a small operator but desirous of owning lots of attachments. 3PH for me is easy on/off folks with MMMs are always d!cking them up going into the woods with them cause they're too hard to take off. I'd rather have a case of the clap than a MMM.

Now thats hard core
I dunno, lets see, spending 5 - 10 minutes disconnecting an implement -or- bending pipes at a high level of pain whilst perfomring a regular necessary body function, hummm, I vote MMM

re. OP's question. I've used both and wouldn't hessitate to use a RFM as a primary finish mower, altho in my case/situation I much prefer the manuverability of the MMM.

Carry on.

 

[asmithcars]

bp fick -- I've used a RFM (Woods RM 660 - side discharge) for 10 years cutting grass on my 7 acres. Its about 1/2 hilly and 1/2 flat with lots of trees (my wife feels any open space needs to be filled with obstacles to grass cutting). Its worked very well for me, even getting around all the trees, etc. (just slow down some.) The only thing I had to do was shorten the chains limiting the RFM's swing somewhat. (I was knocking down too many saplings as I passed by them and the RFM would swing over and hit them.) I recently purchased a Kubota ZG327 mower which I am still 'mastering'. I did not need as much 'mastering' time with the RFM as I am with the zero turn. Regarding the tires knocking down the grass and not getting a good cut - not to worry, I never had any problem with that.