Towing 10,000lbs with 1/2 ton, or upgrade?

[Bama67]

Here is the deal, I have some land about 40 miles from where I live, and I tow my tractor back and forth, lately about 3-4 times a month. Before it was fine, because I had a small tractor. But a couple of months ago I got a new tractor, that when on the bumper pull, it totals about 10.5k. I have a 2005 F-150, 4x4, Screw, King Ranch with 3.73 gears. It has a 2'' leveling kit with 305/65r18 tires which are about 34.5'' tall. And it is my daily driver. As it stands now, 10k is pretty dang heavy behind this truck. I first I was just gonna upgrade to a diesel 4x4, model doesn't matter to much. But as I have been looking, I am now kinda wanting to keep my truck. I have had it since it was almost new, and my Aunt owned it before that, it is totally babied, and in like new condition. My worry is that I know the history of my truck, and to get a diesel for the same value (I would trade, truck is paid for) they have about 100k miles on them. And who knows the history on them, or how they were cared for.

So, should I just throw some add-a-leafs on it, go slow and call it a day. Or just get the bigger truck? What could I do to make it tow better? I have tossed the idea around to regear, maybe to 4.56 ratio, cause my tires are decent sized. But that would be about $1,500 to do so. Getting a seperate truck for towing duty is not an option.

Also which, would my truck handle better: a 2,250lb bumper pull, or a 3,500lb light duty gooseneck?

*and I know my truck isn't rated to tow this much load, so please, no preaching*
What would YOU do?

 

[BruceWard]

Are your tires factory? If the factory tires were 31" tires the larger diameter would change your gear ratio by 12% to 16%.

How does your truck sit with the trailer on the bumper?

The max tow capacity for a 2005 F-150 is 9,900 pounds so you are not stretching it much.

Do you have brakes on your trailer.

If you have brakes my only concerns would be whether or not the gear ratio is placing excessive strain on the engine and whether or not your leveling "lift" kit will cause a suspension issue.

 

[Dmace]

According to the Ford Towing guide, your truck is rated at 9,200lbs. If the truck can handle the tongue load then I don't see you having a problem towing 10k. That 5.4l is nothing to write home about so don't plan on highway speed hill climbing or more then 8 mpg. With the limited amount of times you do this (3-4 per month) then you should be fine without changing gears or adding extra cooling. I would run a weight distributing hitch to help with load leveling and make sure the trailer brakes are good.

I don't typically condone overloading on tow capacity but when you are talking less then 10% more then rated then it's safe to say intermittent use is fine.

 

[whistlepig]

10,000# with a pick up truck is about as serious as it gets. Most I have pulled is 8,000# with a 1996 Dodge 3/4 ton Cummins diesel. Pulling it wasn't the problem. Stopping it was. I had a 10,000# rated tandem drag trailer with brakes on both axles. Don't worry about under power on pulling. Worry about stopping the gosh darn thing.

 

[Steve C]

Here is the deal, I have some land about 40 miles from where I live, and I tow my tractor back and forth, lately about 3-4 times a month. Before it was fine, because I had a small tractor. But a couple of months ago I got a new tractor, that when on the bumper pull, it totals about 10.5k. I have a 2005 F-150, 4x4, Screw, King Ranch with 3.73 gears. It has a 2'' leveling kit with 305/65r18 tires which are about 34.5'' tall. And it is my daily driver. As it stands now, 10k is pretty dang heavy behind this truck. I first I was just gonna upgrade to a diesel 4x4, model doesn't matter to much. But as I have been looking, I am now kinda wanting to keep my truck. I have had it since it was almost new, and my Aunt owned it before that, it is totally babied, and in like new condition. My worry is that I know the history of my truck, and to get a diesel for the same value (I would trade, truck is paid for) they have about 100k miles on them. And who knows the history on them, or how they were cared for.

So, should I just throw some add-a-leafs on it, go slow and call it a day. Or just get the bigger truck? What could I do to make it tow better? I have tossed the idea around to regear, maybe to 4.56 ratio, cause my tires are decent sized. But that would be about $1,500 to do so. Getting a seperate truck for towing duty is not an option.

Also which, would my truck handle better: a 2,250lb bumper pull, or a 3,500lb light duty gooseneck?

*and I know my truck isn't rated to tow this much load, so please, no preaching*
What would YOU do?

If you are not running up and down mountains, I would just sit back and sip a warm cup of coffee and enjoy what you have. Just don't get in a hurry and life will be good.

 

[whistlepig]

A goose neck trailer is ten times better than a bumper pull if the truck bed is not needed.

 

[Bama67]

Wow, thanks for all the quick replies. At first, I really wanted a diesel, cause i had that new truck fever. But then i really started thinking about it. My father in law has 3 F-350s w/ PSD in them, and he very rarely has any problems. But when he does have even a relatively small problem it costs more than I could buy an entire 5.4L engine for.

And I thought about the Super Duty with the V-10, but I am not sure I want a 10-12mpg truck as my daily driver. My 150 is not exactly a hybrid, but it can get about 17mpg.

And 10k doesn't sound like much, but on a half ton 4x4 truck, but that is a heavy load. The trailer does have brakes, but it kind of pushes me around. I think it is because I don't have enough weight on the bumper, so that is why i think an add a leaf in the rear would help me alot by putting more weight on the truck.

How effective are the weight dist hitches?

And man, half tons have came a long way. My dad has an old 80's model 3/4 ton, but my 1/2 ton handles it better than it does.

 

[texasjohn]

Been where you are, gonna give you my straight beliefs.
Your priorities should be as follows, for whatever pickup you use.

Make sure your bakes on the trailer work superbly, as well as on the pickup. A must, period, even if you drive super carefully.

Move to a gooseneck trailer and ball in the pickup bed. As said, at least 10 times safer than bumper hitch, regardless of load balancing/extra springs.

Move to a diesel 3/4 or 1 ton.

My net, brakes and gooseneck will let you keep your current pickup, but you're gonna have to spend some $$ to be sufficiently safe... and this you need to do since you will be on the road several times a month. Try Craig's list for your gooseneck trailer.

 

[BruceWard]

The trailer does have brakes, but it kind of pushes me around. I think it is because I don't have enough weight on the bumper, so that is why i think an add a leaf in the rear would help me alot by putting more weight on the truck.

Can you move the tractor forward on the trailer or back it onto the trailer to move the weight forward and increase the weight on the ball?

 

[Cat_Driver]

One thing you always have to keep in mind, if you do not follow the manufacturer numbers to the letter you will be liable in an accident.

I've been there done that with lawyers and they will eat your lunch if you are one pond out of spec, that's what they do. Secondly your insurance company may or may not cover you if they run the numbers and you are out of spec, remember it's their job to find ways NOT to pay for anything.

Yes, yes, yes, I agree vehicles today can carry and haul more than listed and many people do it day in and day out, BUT, you have to ask yourself is it worth it. My answer is always NO.

You want to be 100% on the vehicle, the trailer, the type of chains, tires, inflation, ply, brakes, etc.etc.etc.

 

[Willl]

Set up to tow legal.

Everything beyond that is experience.

What I mean is you 'could' tow #100,000 behind that 1/2 ton if you were 'experienced'.

 

[radioman]

I think you gonna find that upgrading the trailer to a gooseneck would be your higher proirity . It moves move of the wieght directly over the rears instead of hangin in the back. sure weight distrubtion bars REALLY helps for bumper pull like i have too, its a easy/cheap and fast upgrade to do. it takes what- 15-30mins to properly setup the first time. I would do that first while shopping for a gooseneck. Once you get the gooseneck- you can take the time to mull over the truck option if needed. 10k is alot of wieght and 3-4 times a month towing is alot in IMHO.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Really good advise here. I would not go as low as 4.56 Maybe 4.10???? If you are going to spend money get a WD hitch. DO NOT get a GN at this point. They weigh another 1000# or more than a similar sized bumper pull. With the WD hitch you can get more tongue weight, take it slow, and make sure everything is up to snuff. I personally do not like GN trailers. I can back a bumper pull much better and every time it seemed I needed the bed of my truck.

I pulled 10,000# for 2 years with a F-150. While it was no joy it did the job except on time in August on a 103 deg day in Tennessee Smokies. I had to use 4 Wheel Low to get up a 2 mile grade. It would simply not move in 2 wheel drive or 4 high. I had to get the gearing in my favor.

Chris

 

[Raw Dodge]

Problem with a gooseneck is the pin weight will be way too much for your 150.Just the weight of the trailer alone in the bed is substaintial.
Your lift,and larger tires all work against you.I would do air bags i nthe rear,and go over the trailers brakes,make sure they are 100% along with your controller,since you are towing a lot more than your truck weighs and can stop.Lifted trucks with larger tires have reduced towing capacity over a stock truck,how much reduced depends on how far its lifted,and how large the tires,so be careful as your brakes are not nearly as strong as they were when the truck had 31" tires on it.
I bumper pull 14000 behind my GMC 2500HD and Dodge Cummins 2500,and have no problems at all,the rig is very stable and feels comfortable,you just need to drive accordingly,that is the biggest factor in how safe you are,go slow,and leave yourself a lot of room.Also make sure your new tractor and trailer are insured when your towing them with your pickup,beings its your property and your tractor,you should be able to get away with private insurance,saving you money.If your insurance company has records of your rig,and are insuring it ok,I would just be very careful .As you know a 9200+ GVWR truck would be a much better compromise for what you are doing.Remember a V10 Ford or 8.1 GM will get much better mog towing than you will,although they both will struggle to get 13mpg highway,and 10 city empty. My 8.1 gets 13-14 mpg highway and 9 city empty.

 

[dodge man]

I'll throw out another idea, is there anything you can do to reduce the weight. Run with less fuel in your truck and tractor? 20 gallons is over 100lbs. Are the tires loaded in your tractor? That could be several hunderd pounds there. If you need the weight you could get a weight box for the back and leave it at your second place.

 

[roamerr]

I tow similar load with my Ram 1500 Hemi occassionally. Does fine. Load the tractor so you have around 1000 lbs of tongue weight. Do not load and drive with a light tongue or it will toss the truck around.

As for WD hitches -- they work great and I have one on my RV. Very rarely do you see them on utility trailers since you can usually just rebalance the load -- can't do that with an RV as easy.

Forget the 5th wheel trailer. A 1/2 ton does not have enough rear axle capacity to justify.

I am a fan of rear airbags. Just add some air to level things up when loaded.

Firestone 2350 Air Bags 2004 2005 2006 2007 FORD F-150:eBay Motors (item 280296045152 end time Nov-14-09 13:53:01 PST)

 

[Carykong]

cat driver summerizes well. you are pushing the envelope. equip. set-up and road elevations must all be considered.

 

[RobertN]

Your truck is pulling it already. I would start with a couple minor things.

- Lose the leveling kit. Sure, it looks pretty, but pickups sit high in the back for a reason; when you throw weight in them, it levels them. If you start level, then you will really sag when you add weight. That distribution, and light front end does not make for best handling.

-Lose the bigger tires. Sure they look nice. But as someone else mentioned, they throw your overall gear ratio way off. When you went to 305's, you probably affected your gearing as if you went to 3.23 gearing...

You lose gas mileage, your odometer is off. Also, that larger rotating mass makes it a little harder to stop. Larger tires affect both overall gearing, AND braking.

- Weight disti hitch... over 5000lbs you should have one right? Most class 3 and 4 reciever hitches say that.

Even if you get a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck, I would still say the same.

 

[mikeyee]

From working around machinery, I always was encouraged to follow the fact that equipment should be run at 75-80% of its max capacity or rated work. For pumps and motors if you run them close to 100% it wears them down much faster from the heat and tear that they prematurely fail than the expected manufacture. The transmission gears will fail much faster since they will have more fatigue on them from towing large loads and the engine block o-rings are more likely to leak early from pulling such large loads after a while (My dad and I learned that the hard way and from others).

So towing in my perspective with a 1/2 ton truck can be done for 10,000lbs for a short time but for longer hauls its best to go with a 3/4 ton or diesel truck because 10k/12k is around 80%. Its a steep investment since I shopped around for trucks for nearly a whole year. But really would you want to put yourself on the edge for you and your truck at the start? More is better~

 

[flusher]

Here is the deal, I have some land about 40 miles from where I live, and I tow my tractor back and forth, lately about 3-4 times a month. Before it was fine, because I had a small tractor. But a couple of months ago I got a new tractor, that when on the bumper pull, it totals about 10.5k. I have a 2005 F-150, 4x4, Screw, King Ranch with 3.73 gears. It has a 2'' leveling kit with 305/65r18 tires which are about 34.5'' tall. And it is my daily driver. As it stands now, 10k is pretty dang heavy behind this truck. I first I was just gonna upgrade to a diesel 4x4, model doesn't matter to much. But as I have been looking, I am now kinda wanting to keep my truck. I have had it since it was almost new, and my Aunt owned it before that, it is totally babied, and in like new condition. My worry is that I know the history of my truck, and to get a diesel for the same value (I would trade, truck is paid for) they have about 100k miles on them. And who knows the history on them, or how they were cared for.

So, should I just throw some add-a-leafs on it, go slow and call it a day. Or just get the bigger truck? What could I do to make it tow better? I have tossed the idea around to regear, maybe to 4.56 ratio, cause my tires are decent sized. But that would be about $1,500 to do so. Getting a seperate truck for towing duty is not an option.

Also which, would my truck handle better: a 2,250lb bumper pull, or a 3,500lb light duty gooseneck?

*and I know my truck isn't rated to tow this much load, so please, no preaching*
What would YOU do?

I'm in the same situation as you--my 01 F150 is way undersized to tow the 10K GN flatbed trailer I want to haul my parade tractors. Like you I'll be towing that load less than a dozen times per year. So I'm beating the bushes for a used 3/4 or 1 ton pickup.

Lately I've been focusing on 1999-03 Ram 2500/3500s since I hear good things about the 5.9L Cummins turbodiesel. For example the 1999 Ram 2500 regular cab, 2WD automatic with either the 3.55 or 3.92 rear end has 10,300 lb towing capacity according to the operator manual. This drops to 9,900 lb for the 4WD setup.

It's good to hear the voices of experience talking about the importance of good brakes and brake controllers. You wonder about the condition some of the stuff you see on roads these days. I plan to get brakes on both axles of whatever GN I end up with.