I'm going to sale next week with an IH 706 diesel. Anything specific to look for? Reasonable price? I'm thinking 3-5k depending on the condition.
Thanks.
I think your price is about right with a decent looking tractor. These were some real workhorses from the last century for many farms. I really like mine.
JD 4520, Toolcat 5610, Bobcat S300, Case-IH 125 Pro, Case-IH 245, IH 1086, IH 806
As with most older IHs, the TA condition will be important. Use to run a 706 gasser, and still use an 806. The gasser could use a lot of fuel. Lot of these tractors were 2 pt. Many can be converted to 3 pt but having one already converted will save a fair amount of $. Not the easiest shifing tractors but trannys were reliable.
3-5k would be on the low side for wide front end in good to very good condition.
The TA if so equipped would be a concern, if it's a gas engine your price is about right, a diesel will normally bring a few thousand more. The older diesel used a D-282 engine which is a good engine and we had many go well over 10,000 hours before rebuild. The later engine used was the D-310 which is a german built engine and also was a good long life engine.
Call me and I can tell you how to test a TA system before you buy with just operating it and it works about 99% of the time to tell you if it's on the way out. Many times they fail just do to the hydraulic pumps. The other way is they are used as a brake, TA is short for Torque Amplifier which is to add torque on a full pull at full throttle.
It is a diesel, and I'm hoping to find a deal (but probably not).
I've heard about testing the TA by putting it in a higher gear, applying brake, and then engaging the TA to see if it works. What is your method?
Since we are on the subject, how much validity is there to this? Once you start sensing problems with the TA, put it in high range and leave it there.
I have heard this same advice repeatedly.
You'lls talk about pricing really makes me think I got a deal. Even if it is hard to start no matter the weather.
another factor is the tires. If they need replacement you can spend money you thought you had saved. Also some of them ran fluid in the tires that can rust out the rims. just my 2 cents
I have been looking for a 706 gasser in MN with 2 point and a loader. 2 point has downward force that i want for a rear blade. So far things haven't worked out but one day i will find one to drag home.
It is a diesel, and I'm hoping to find a deal (but probably not).
I've heard about testing the TA by putting it in a higher gear, applying brake, and then engaging the TA to see if it works. What is your method?
Be sure the tractor is warmed up. Do as you have stated in high gear TA ahead hard on the brakes but also when you pull the lever back turn the steering wheel. The steering, brakes and the TA shift both work off the same pump and this way you are using all of the system at the same time and show a weakness. When testing if the pump is weak then change it, otherwise it will kill the TA anyway.
To do the TA often the clutch will get done at the same time. this will add a bit inthe additional costs as the flywheel should be turned by someone with the proper specs on the depth. A shop price should be just over 3,000 with the clutch doing it right.
Seen people go 8,000 hours plus on the TA and some only 2,500 hours.
Well I took the plunge and bought it for $2900. It does have some blowby, slight oil smoke, and some antifreeze coming from somewhere at the back of the engine (oil is not milky, antifreeze is green). It has 6900 hours (282 diesel) and it will likely need some work. Everything else seems to work good.
I plan on using it to do some mowing this fall until I can start a midwinter investigation. It seems to be put together well, with heavy connections. Shifting is bit sloppy, another thing to check.
Hopefully I can find a loader for it somewhere.
What repair manual would be the best to start with?
You could have a head gasket leak. That's not to uncommon for them at those hours. The shifting is quite simple and should be easy to look at and see which knuckles are loose.
I have no idea. I bought mine at an equipment auction in very good shape for around a thousand or $1200 and spent about $400 to build a connection to the tractor. I could have ordered(maybe) the connection for less but only found that out much later. Knowing what I know now, I would easily pay 3,000 for the same. I guess I was so lucky and didnt even know it.
