Oil & Fuel 2554 oil drain leaking

[diesel_nut]

Changed the oil 2 weeks ago and I have noticed a leak under the tractor. Initially I thought it was residual oil dripping off frame rail. But it's the oil drain leaking(the twist and turn drain). Dealer said to bring it in and they have a new updated plug for that. Will let you know what that is when it gets done.

 

[VinceSMTA]

Same thing happened on my 2542, I removed the twist and turn drain and replaced it with a drain hose that I had made up at NAPA. I didn't like the idea of having a plastic drain plug, I guess I was afraid of something getting in there and breaking it.

 

[jdkalb]

On my GT3100 I noticed a puddle of oil on my barn floor. I drained the oil out and measured it. It was slightly less than a pint.

Mine had the elbow so I put a nipple and plug on like I have seen in previous posts on this form.

That plastic valve is a piece of junk. I could not tell when it was locked shut, or else it opened up by itself.

John

 

[wesk]

I purchased my 2550 in 07. It had nipple and elbow. Did they come like that
or did dealer add it? Dealer is top notch!

 

[diesel_nut]

NO they do not come like that. Mine is an '08 model.

 

[LBrown59]

I purchased my 2550 in 07. It had nipple and elbow. Did they come like that
or did dealer add it? Dealer is top notch!

I think they done something like that in later years.

 

[JTKub]

All the 2007's I've seen had a nipple, elbow and then the plastic quick drain fitting. My 2005 model year had only a short, hexed nipple and then the (garbage) plastic fitting, which required me to lift the engine to remove/replace with standard pipe fittings. Diesel_nut, a master wrencher like yourself sent it do a dealer for that?!? Say it ain't so!

Joel

 

[savageactor7]

Took me less time to R/R the oil plug than to do this 1st paint job with the red arrow...

...I opted for the quick fix with a simple stopper cause I didn't want to jack up any farther to accommodate an elbow. For a less messy oil change I slightly jack up the R side of the front end and all the oil drops from the frame to a oil bucket.

I can't tell you how happy I am that I don't have to constantly top of oil anymore either.

 

[JTKub]

Savage, the only thing I'd worry about with your setup is, being pipe threads, you could eventually bugger up the threads in the engine block to the point of persistent leakage. If you throw a nipple in there (or the likes), it only goes in once and stays. Any thread issues would happen well downstream, leaving the block intact.

Joel

 

[savageactor7]

Well JT I'll keep an eye on it for sure...I got it at the dealers when I asked for an 'all metal oil plug'. Seems to me that's what oil plugs were ages ago...just stopper plugs. Pretty sure I have 3 similar ones on other engines 2 push mowers and a splitter and they haven't leaked yet.

EDIT

You know I just reread your post and now I fully understand what your saying. I'll look that over in the morning and think about that some more.

 

[moe1942]

I would replace the plug with a hose at the next oil change. Get one long enough to make oil changes less messy. Put your choice of stopper in the end. Have the hose made at NAPA for cheap...

 

[JTKub]

That's the way Simplicity did it on some of their machines (maybe still do). Makes for a nice mess free oil change. You could probably tuck the hose nicely along the frame rail when not needed.

Joel

 

[EuropaChris]

I finally got REAL sick of that stupid plastic valve and having to try and bend that vinyl tubing CC supplied onto the end of it. This spring I installed a Fumoto drain valve at the end of a nipple/elbow/nipple setup so I can attach a tube to the end of the valve and route the oil into a container, no muss, no fuss. I forget who showed the idea here - I can't take credit - but it's the way it should have been done to begin with. CC would never have sprung for a Fumoto valve, but Jeezuz, at least the elbow and pipe and just cap the end. Whazzat, maybe $1.50 in Chinese pipe and fittings from Home Despot?

Loosening up the engine (I just removed all 4 bolts after scribing location lines around the "feet") to get the elbow installed was simple enough with my Bosch 18V 1/2" impact driver and once back together, shows no ill effects from the process.

Chris

 

[JTKub]

A Fumoto is definitely the deluxe package Chris. My John Deere drain valve has a tiny T-stem that has to be threaded out like a hose bib. It's a pain, but still easier, less messy and leak free than the ridiculous OEM setup I had.

Joel

 

[EuropaChris]

A Fumoto is definitely the deluxe package Chris. My John Deere drain valve has a tiny T-stem that has to be threaded out like a hose bib. It's a pain, but still easier, less messy and leak free than the ridiculous OEM setup I had.

Joel

Well, whaddya know - that looks just like mine!!! )

 

[JTKub]

Yeah, I did it after the 2nd oil change a few years back. I had the JD drain vlv on hand still new in the bag we bought many years ago (for a JD 110) and never used. The quarter turn Fumoto will be much easier than my threaded stem valve for sure.

Joel

 

[cager]

I've got a 2005 CC 2554 along with all the oil drain issues posted here. I would very much like to install the oil drain set up you guys are describing, especially since my tractor is at 300 hrs and time for the dreaded and very much despised oil change. My practice has been to let the oil run out on the frame, drip down into a large catch basin and then clean up. I'm trying to work up enough courage to do what some of you more experienced mechanics have done...loosen up the four bolts holding the engine, raise the engine, install the new drain set up and be done with it. Sounds easy enough. I consider myself an average wrencher but a job of this nature would take me out of my comfort zone as I would be concerned about messing something up and then having to engage a dealer to fix what I messed up. I may just bite the bullet and make the attempt. Any thoughts, suggestions, encouragement or otherwise...would be very much appreciated.

 

[moe1942]

I offered this at another forum. Use a die grinder with a small cutoff wheel and cut the nipple just behind the elbow. Remove the remainder and then put a hose on it. No need to lift the engine.

About a ten minute job. I have all the equipment to do the job but mine isn't leaking enough to do it yet. I'm lazy...

 

[diesel_nut]

They replaced it with a new twist and turn drain. Looks just the same. We'll see if this one starts leaking also. If It does I'm goin' to the plumbing store

 

[oi81b4uu812b4]

I replace the twist pull oil drain oil drain on my Cub Cadet 2554GT.
It had 3/8"-18 NPTF straight pipe threads, so I bought a 1 FT long hose for lubricated air from McMaster Carr
#5268K625 ($16.34) 3/8-18 NPTF - 1FT Long hose for lubricated air

Then capped the hose on one end with a Pipe Cap
#48805K24 ($11.91) [Cheaper caps are available for under a $1, I'm fancy!]

Works great, original Quick Drain was crap. Grit in the oil keeps it open. Plastic gets brittle with heat.