Chickens, and things related
- Thread starter Tororider
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nmu98
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Pine,
They have some latches that are half circles and when they close they get pretty tight. Tight enough that it would be safe against most things other than a bear.
I cannot find a picture of them........ I have a few at home, i will try to snap a pic....
They have some latches that are half circles and when they close they get pretty tight. Tight enough that it would be safe against most things other than a bear.
I cannot find a picture of them........ I have a few at home, i will try to snap a pic....
OP
Tororider
Veteran Member
PineRidge,
I don't know if it is possible or if it matters but I would put the hinges on the top for both doors. It makes it so that you have to hold the door open, which can be a pain, but then you can't forget to close the doors, they do it themselves.
For keeping it locked, I use a padlock, but I am in the burbs and it is to keep the two legged curious kids out. You could use a regular padlock latch, but use a carabeener(sp) or a spring closing clip.
Good luck and let us know what you come up with.
I don't know if it is possible or if it matters but I would put the hinges on the top for both doors. It makes it so that you have to hold the door open, which can be a pain, but then you can't forget to close the doors, they do it themselves.
For keeping it locked, I use a padlock, but I am in the burbs and it is to keep the two legged curious kids out. You could use a regular padlock latch, but use a carabeener(sp) or a spring closing clip.
Good luck and let us know what you come up with.
PineRidge
Super Member
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, we're almost home on the coop.
Here's how we handle the pop-door. I wanted a way to secure it from the raccoons. The first rope you pull lifts the hinged 2X4 and the 2nd rope lifts the door. When you drop both the weight of the horizontal 2X4 keeps the prop secure against the sliding pop-door. Simple but it works.
Here's how we handle the pop-door. I wanted a way to secure it from the raccoons. The first rope you pull lifts the hinged 2X4 and the 2nd rope lifts the door. When you drop both the weight of the horizontal 2X4 keeps the prop secure against the sliding pop-door. Simple but it works.
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PineRidge
Super Member
The Black box that you see in the picture is a foundation vent that we mounted in the sidewall. It has a bi-metal that opens a set of louvers at 70 degrees.
We then took an old box fan that we got for free at Craigslist and boxed it in overhead to draw air through the coop. I am looking for an old furnace fan control that I'll wire into the fan so it automatically starts as the temperatures in the coop rise. The fan really moves a lot of air through the coop when its on.
We then took an old box fan that we got for free at Craigslist and boxed it in overhead to draw air through the coop. I am looking for an old furnace fan control that I'll wire into the fan so it automatically starts as the temperatures in the coop rise. The fan really moves a lot of air through the coop when its on.
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PineRidge
Super Member
We finished up the 1st of two banks of nesting boxes with perch. We wanted the boxes to lift out for easy cleaning.
The eggs can be collected from outside the shed via a hinged door.
The door you see below the nesting boxes will aid in sweeping out the coop at cleaning time.
The eggs can be collected from outside the shed via a hinged door.
The door you see below the nesting boxes will aid in sweeping out the coop at cleaning time.
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dooleysm
Platinum Member
I didn't see where you had roosts located for them to sleep on. Keep in mind that they poop a TON when they are on their roost. So watch what is below the roosts. The higher the better on the roosts too. They love to be up high.
dooleysm
Platinum Member
If you didn't already have them designed in I would tell you to skip the additional nest boxes. 4 will serve a load of hens. They tend to all lay in the same box. I think I have 5 boxes for about a dozen hens. I could easily get by with 2, and that would probably be plenty for 15 hens.
PineRidge
Super Member
Thanks for the tip Shawn. I'll most likely put off making the second set of nest boxes at your recommendation.
I plan to make roosts from 2X4s turned on end and at different heights. Most likely they will fold up so cleaning will be easier. I have also been kicking around the idea of putting one of those large plastic drip pans that you put under a car in the garage to catch oil drips, guess what it will catch...
The wife is looking forward to picking up the ladies (chicks) Tuesday the 23rd of this month. I haven't seen her this excited about a hobby in years.
I gotta get going on the run next. Still trying to decide if I want to use welded wire to keep the coons out.
Someone said the hens like grass so I'm going to build a raised bed in the run where I will plant grass. I'll extend hardware cloth over the top of the bed so the grass can grow through, the ladies can stand on top and eat the tops of the grass without pulling it out by the roots or scratching it to death. The chicken poop may even help the grass grow????
TBDonnelly
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Mike, If you put anymore creature comforts in the coop I'm coming over and spend a week before the chickens move in.
If you need a way to get the chicks home, this chicken tractor by 3RRL comes to mind. Forgive me if it's already been posted in this thread.
Check this out:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1649079-post1170.html
and
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1649289-post1178.html
Don
If you need a way to get the chicks home, this chicken tractor by 3RRL comes to mind. Forgive me if it's already been posted in this thread.
Check this out:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1649079-post1170.html
and
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1649289-post1178.html
Don
PineRidge
Super Member
Mike, If you put anymore creature comforts in the coop I'm coming over and spend a week before the chickens move in.
If you need a way to get the chicks home, this chicken tractor by 3RRL comes to mind. Forgive me if it's already been posted in this thread.
Check this out:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1649079-post1170.html
and
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1649289-post1178.html
Don
Rob always has some real nice projects. I enjoy reading his threads.
The wife told me that if the chickens didn't work for her I could put a big screen TV in the coop and an air conditioner in the wall. Instant man cave with a view of the garden.
OP
Tororider
Veteran Member
Pine,
The poop tray is a good idea that I have seen a lot of people do, it makes for much more time between coop cleanings.
Not sure that your grass idea will work. Non dried chicken skat is very acidic. It should be dried for awhile before being used as compost of any type. It can't hurt to try, but just wanted to give you a heads up.
For the roosts, put the 2x4's horizontal so that the fat side is where they will roost. I am not sure where you live, but by doing this they keep their feet warm in cooler weather because they sit down on them.
Looking good and keep the pictures coming. When can you come build me another coop?
The poop tray is a good idea that I have seen a lot of people do, it makes for much more time between coop cleanings.
Not sure that your grass idea will work. Non dried chicken skat is very acidic. It should be dried for awhile before being used as compost of any type. It can't hurt to try, but just wanted to give you a heads up.
For the roosts, put the 2x4's horizontal so that the fat side is where they will roost. I am not sure where you live, but by doing this they keep their feet warm in cooler weather because they sit down on them.
Looking good and keep the pictures coming. When can you come build me another coop?
PineRidge
Super Member
Thanks for the advice on the roosts. I was going to turn the 2X4s on end but at this point I'll opt for your method. It gets below freezing here in the winter so that might keep the birds feet warmer or at least prevent frostbite.
How far from the wall should the roosts start and how far apart should the spacing be?
OP
Tororider
Veteran Member
I think you want to keep your roosts a foot from the wall and the stagger the a foot apart and a foot difference in height, like a ladder.
dooleysm
Platinum Member
I definitely agree on the 2x4's with the 3.5" dimension horizontal. I have 2 6' roosts in my coop, about 5' off the ground. The chickens usually hop up on top of the nest boxes (maybe 3.5' off the ground) and then on to the roosts. My cousin has ladders in his coop leading to the nest boxes and the roosts. The chickens don't need them, but they will definitely use them.
The chickens will huddle together on the roosts, so as with the nest boxes, you probably won't need as much roost space as you think.
The chickens will huddle together on the roosts, so as with the nest boxes, you probably won't need as much roost space as you think.
PineRidge
Super Member
DIRTROAD
Platinum Member
Mine can't even begin to compare.
OP
Tororider
Veteran Member
PineRidge,
Looks like a nice variety, what all did you get?
DirtRoad,
If it works that is all that matters. Personally I think it looks nice, where are the nest boxes though.
Looks like a nice variety, what all did you get?
DirtRoad,
If it works that is all that matters. Personally I think it looks nice, where are the nest boxes though.
DIRTROAD
Platinum Member
DirtRoad,
If it works that is all that matters. Personally I think it looks nice, where are the nest boxes though.[/QUOTE]
They are up under the roof part. (2nd floor) that's what the door is on the end, so I can just reach in and get the eggs.
If it works that is all that matters. Personally I think it looks nice, where are the nest boxes though.[/QUOTE]
They are up under the roof part. (2nd floor) that's what the door is on the end, so I can just reach in and get the eggs.
PineRidge
Super Member
I like your coop. Don't think I could get away with using poultry wire here though as we have many hungry racoons. I'm looking for 1"X1" welded wire fence fabrice. Anyone have a source?
