Bought mower...shaft too long

[wingdwolf56]

Well, I decided on a finish mower for my 9N. Or rather a finish mower decided for me. I found a 5ft mower for a nice price. It has new belts and freshly sharpen blades and is freshly lubed. Problem is, the pto shaft is too long. I have an overriding clutch on the 9N and that puts the PTO out about 4 inches farther. Question is: can I just cut the shaft that goes to the tractor, or do I need to cut both halves? Problem with cutting the half attached to the mower is, I can't get the shaft off. I removed the bolt that goes through the yolk and the shaft but the shaft doesn't slide off. Is there something there I don't see? Plus the mower shaft has a grease fitting about an inch from the end so even if I do get it off, I can only cut less than an inch. I am planning on cutting the tractor shaft about 5 inches. That should give an inch for movement of the mower. Is an inch enough?

 

[LoneCowboy]

cut both ends, just use a hacksaw, they aren't built out of real strong steel (amazingly enough).

An inch probably isn't enough, when you raise it, you'll jam it up against the tractor shaft and jam the collar (which then won't won't to come off)

Remember, cutting 1" off both ends takes about 2" off the whole length.

Why is there a grease zirk in the middle of the shaft? Just to lube the inside the shaft? you can do that bhy hand once a season.

 

[Bird]

Instead of me trying to describe the correct way, just look at the manual for a Bush Hog finish mower. Page 7 describes the way it should be done. And yes, ideally you want to cut an equal amount off each piece. While it's easier if you take them off, put them in a vise, and use a power saw, I've cut one with a manual hacksaw and it wasn't that hard to do.

 

[cup149]

There is supposed to be a snap ring on the mower gearbox input shaft, that retains the yoke if the shear bolt were to break. I think this is why you can't get it off. You should be able to see it near the end of the shaft.

 

[wingdwolf56]

Thanks so much for the instuctions. I've been looking for something like that on the net but evidently didn't know the correct words for google.
I saw the snap ring on the shaft but couldn't budge it and didn't want to ruin it. First tractor experience! I will do the measuring and cutting in the morning. Will report my results tommorrow afternoon.

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. just cut in place.. as others said.. equal amount off each side.. IE.. for 6" cut.. cut 3 off each side.

might hae to trim plastic sheath if it has one too. get some good bi-metallic blades and a strong arm..

soundguy

 

[wingdwolf56]

As it turns out, the distance from the tractor pto to the mower is too short. The closest point is 20" and the farthest point is 24". The shaft can't be cut enought to fit and still stay together while in use. Now I have to fabricate brackets to move the mower farther away from the tractor. Seems the overrunning clutch is the culprit, but I'm not going to remove it. It's too big of a safety factor. I found a machine shop that can make the brackets. Hopefully I'll have them by Saturday at the latest so I can put everything back together and try it out.Oh well, at least I'm learning each day!!! By the way, the mower is a Ford 930A and the gear box sits on the front of the deck.

 

[Soundguy]

eh??

sounds like you only have 4" of movement... with the shaft at farthest point.. 24".. should have 8" overlap and 8" either side .. or so.. when colapsed 4".. 2" each side.. seems like it should work??.. unles sthe yoke neds are huge and long.. like 6" each..

soundguy

 

[greg_g]

Remember, cutting 1" off both ends takes about 2" off the whole length.

for 6" cut.. cut 3 off each side.

Explain to me how that works please. Every collapsible PTO shaft I've cut has been a 1:1 proposition. That is, if I need it 4 inches shorter - I take 4" off each end (and off both halves of the PVC tube). Based on your formula, I've been cutting mine too short all these years.

//greg//

 

[SGStriglos]

Explain to me how that works please. Every collapsible PTO shaft I've cut has been a 1:1 proposition. That is, if I need it 4 inches shorter - I take 4" off each end (and off both halves of the PVC tube). Based on your formula, I've been cutting mine too short all these years.

//greg//

I agree with Greg.

 

[Soundguy]

I am not going to get drug into an argument on this.... but every mower manual I have describes it this way...

soundguy

 

[forester2]

Sounds like an opportunity to buy more stuff. Adding a Pat's Quick Hitch might solve your propblem. It should extend your lift arms about 3" I think. Bonus is getting the easy attachment advantage of the system.

 

[wingdwolf56]

I thought about a quick hitch but it won't add enough. Mathematically, the shaft SHOULD fit but the last 6 inches of the shaft at the mower end is hollow and doesn't have the hollow square part to hold the tractor end. I know this because as I cut each end of the shaft 2 inches at a time, I ran out of useable shaft at the mower end. Even if I had stopped cutting, there would have only been about and inch to hold the shaft. The tractor end of the shaft is a solid square all the way back to the u joint but the mower end isn't the same. I went through all the measuring and figuring with to old parts guys at the John Deere dealer in Coshocton, OH. The best we could come up with was making brackets to move the mower back 6 or 7 inches. The brackets are being made and I should have everything ready for a new shaft next week.
The best way I've learned about cutting the shaft is from the web site I was derected to earlier in this thread. If there is not at least 6 inches between the cut lines at the farthest point of travel, DON"T CUT!!! Well, I cut

 

[greg_g]

I found a 5ft mower for a nice price.

I'm now realizing that you're talking about a used mower - which raises the strong possibility of a bent PTO shaft. I am having a hard time accepting that yours is "partially solid". It's not like you're the only 9N owner out there with a mower. More likely the shaft is just binding. I'm also having a hard time accepting that an experienced dealer hasn't already figured this out for you - and simply replaced the shaft.

//greg//

 

[Willl]

What he said......eh ?

Gotum pic ?

 

[wingdwolf56]

Well, I'm looking at the hollow last 6 inches of the shaft, the part that goes to the mower and it is hollow. Nothing to hold the square shaft from the mower end. Plus the length to hookup is only 18 inches. The particular shaft that came with the mower could not be cut short enough to fir and still be usable. Distance between pto spindle and mower gear shaft is 20 inches when hooked up to the 3 point. The pto shaft that came with the mower was 26 inches when put together.

 

[Soundguy]

is the shaft pinned to the yoke at the tractor end?

are you sure it's the original shaft?

soundguy

 

[cup149]

I think I see his problem...the shaft from the mower was round pipe with the last six inches having an internal square to mate with the square shaft from the tractor. In making the shaft shorter, he cut off the part with the internal square, now he is left with round pipe. If your shaft is 1 3/16 square, you need this to weld back on. Tractor Supply Company - Weasler Slip Sleeve, 35 Series, 1-3/16 in. Square Bore Sleeve

 

[Soundguy]

That's what i was getting at.. if only one end is a drive end.. you have to cut the other end down.

soundguy