King Kutter standard vs. professional

[SouthernX]

Hi,

I went to the King Kutter (KK) website ( King Kutter Incorporated ) and found that it list KK equipment as either "sub-compact", "standard", or "professioal". For "standard" tillers it shows a "King Kutter II". For "professional" tillers it shows a tiller that is labeled "King Kutter Professional". What is the difference between the "standard" and "professional" tillers? The only difference that I noticed is that the tube / shaft from the PTO box only extends to one side on the "professional".

 

[MarkV]

Well that is a good question. Comparing the KK II and the Pro tiller they have the same number of tines, same hp requirements and the weight is the same. Maybe they put better paint job on the pro model.

MarkV

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I looked at 'em at the National Farm Machinery Show in Feb. (Louisville Kentucky) The reps were busy, and I had no intentions of buying another tiller, so I didn't ask questions, but, the demo models were unpainted, so I could see one BIG difference. The DEMO models were built with stainless steel. I'm not sure if standard production models of the "pro" line is SS or not. Look at the "chassis" construction of the standard and professional models.....Quite a bit of difference. (Standard is box tubing and sheet metal construction, where pro line is formed sheet iron.) The new pro line looks VERY well built. Now if they can just sell 'em as cheap as the standard models.....

 

[johnk]

The difference I have seen in the Professional models is a heavier gauge steel with more reinforcements. I recently bought a 7 ft blade that was a professional model. Pretty HD compared to the standard...

 

[MarkV]

Heavier gauge steel is what I normally expect when comparing different duty ratings within a given product line. In this case, based on the web site, the tiller models seem to weigh the same amount.

If what Farmwithjunk saw at the show, and Stainless was the difference I could understand that . I am still surprised that both models would weigh the same.

Of course it could just be poor web site management and I don't have the facts.

MarkV

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Heavier gauge steel is what I normally expect when comparing different duty ratings within a given product line. In this case, based on the web site, the tiller models seem to weigh the same amount.

If what Farmwithjunk saw at the show, and Stainless was the difference I could understand that . I am still surprised that both models would weigh the same.

Of course it could just be poor web site management and I don't have the facts.

MarkV

I'm not convinced the actual production models would be stainless steel. The various "pro" implements they had on display were unpainted, so they may have been fabbed up from stainless just for that purpose.......show.......

The pro grade tiller is a totally different chassis/frame. It's built without the 2"X2" box tubing structural members. If weights are in fact the same, the sheet metal would have to be a good bit heavier gauge.

All I can say for certain is the pro line tillers really do LOOK good. That's been the ongoing "knock" against KKII tillers.....their appearance. A well finished, well painted KKII tiller would be a tough act to beat, so long as they can keep the cost in reason.


The original!

New and improved!

 

[jhotchkiss]

The professional appears to be a spin off of their "flat top" design that they have had around the plant in Ohio for a few years. I live relatively close so I see a lot of what they are playing with from time to time.

They also have a seven footer that is not listed on the web page, but if you call and ask for one they will put you down for the next time they run a series of the larger tillers.

 

[SouthernX]

The professional appears to be a spin off of their "flat top" design that they have had around the plant in Ohio for a few years. I live relatively close so I see a lot of what they are playing with from time to time.

They also have a seven footer that is not listed on the web page, but if you call and ask for one they will put you down for the next time they run a series of the larger tillers.

It figures I would find out they sell a 7 ft model after I just bought a 6 ft. model. I haven't put it to work yet so I know the store would let me exchange it for a 7 ft model. However, I'm thinking that my 52 PTO hp might not be enough to turn a 7 footer properly. I wonder what the 7 ft. tiller sells for.

 

[xlr82v2]

Looks like the gearboxes are the same on the "standard" and the "Pro" models... just different frame/sheet metal.

 

[jhotchkiss]

It figures I would find out they sell a 7 ft model after I just bought a 6 ft. model. I haven't put it to work yet so I know the store would let me exchange it for a 7 ft model. However, I'm thinking that my 52 PTO hp might not be enough to turn a 7 footer properly. I wonder what the 7 ft. tiller sells for.

I don't know where you buy them from, but at the plant they were about $250 more.

 

[foggy1111]

Strangely, the professional model lacks the support tube oposite the gearbox on the left side....as in the KKII, and has less top fabricated structure.....likely due to heavier metal? The KKII has about 4 water "traps" (to rust and trap dirt) in the top. I just finished prepping my new KKII....just get near it with a tool and the paint "pops" off. One would think by now they would find a better way to finish their metal. Can it cost that much more?

I bought my new box frame disc from a small dealer up where my land is located. He claims he orders all the KK products in red at the same price as their standard yellow. KK paints OVER their standard color for him....and he claims he offeres double the paint protection. I have not seen my disc yet....but if it's (un) "primed" like the tiller....it's gonna pop off anyway. This guy was much cheaper than TSC prices on this disc....and a nice guy too.

 

[Ford850]

I know this thread is a year old, but I talked the KK today regarding the difference in these tillers. They said the professional is simply a version with a rounded top to shed debris and water, and that it is also quick hitch adaptable due to the 3pt frame. He stressed the 3pt frame is the biggest difference due to the many requests from people who use a quick hitch.
I asked him if the metal was heavier or a different gear box was used, and he said "Nope, just the rounded top and 3pt frame".
By looking at the pictures I can now see other differences including the rear gate and the top tube.

 

[LBJ23]

I signed up, to hopefully clear up some misinformation and confusion about the King Kutter 4' tiller and the differences. First note, as many know, this is not the 4' XB version for the sub-compact and tractors up to 25hp. This is comparing the standard vs the professional for compact tractors. I wrote to King Kutter two weeks back myself, wanting to know the differences. Contrary to what you might think, the standard is actually made of heavier gauge material, it is 10ga vs 12ga for the professional. I'm sure King Kutter won't mind me sharing the letter, although it didn't give a specific name, it came directly from them. Here is that letter explaining the difference:


"There is little in the way of differences between the two tillers. The professional or G style tiller has a rounded top to it; where as the standard tiller has a flat top. The standard is slightly heavier by about 50lbs. or so. That difference comes from the gauge steel they are made from. The professional is made of 12ga. and the regular tiller is made of 10ga. They both use the same tines, gearboxes, PTO shafts, and tillers of the same size have the same horse power requirements for use. One isn't necessarily better than the other. Both tillers are rugged and with a little bit of routine maintenance at the beginning and end of each season they will last a long while.

"With your tractor you could use either one. Both have a horse power range of 20-35 HP."

As I write this, looking at Atwoods price, there is only a $80 difference with the professional model being higher than the standard which I don't mind paying more if I thought it was better, but I think I will go with the standard due to it having heavier gauge. If you look at both, the standard isn't entirely flat on the top, it does have some angle.

Hope this helps others. Either choice, I think you'll be happy.