Looking to buy a BandSaw

[rhamer]

FOr many years I have been using a grinder style chop saw to cut all my steel. The old cheapish unit I had served me extremely well until one day flames shot out the end and that was it.

I replaced it with a Makita (made in china) unit but it just dosen't cut as well as my old one. When cutting big stock like 90x90x5mm square it veers off vertical and I end up with a cut that looks like it belongs on the end of a chisel.

Anyway, I am considering buying a horizontal bandsaw to replace it. I want to get a middle of the road type as I do want it to last for ever and from time to time I cut quite big stock.

This is the sort of machine I'm looking at https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=B005#

However I have never used one before and I'm interested in how they perform in practice, compared to a chop saw.

I get the feeling they cut slower, but the result is better?
Do they take longer to load the stock?
Any other general comments on the difference between the 2 methods.

Cheers

Rohan

 

[flusher]

FOr many years I have been using a grinder style chop saw to cut all my steel. The old cheapish unit I had served me extremely well until one day flames shot out the end and that was it.

I replaced it with a Makita (made in china) unit but it just dosen't cut as well as my old one. When cutting big stock like 90x90x5mm square it veers off vertical and I end up with a cut that looks like it belongs on the end of a chisel.

Anyway, I am considering buying a horizontal bandsaw to replace it. I want to get a middle of the road type as I do want it to last for ever and from time to time I cut quite big stock.

This is the sort of machine I'm looking at https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=B005#

However I have never used one before and I'm interested in how they perform in practice, compared to a chop saw.

I get the feeling they cut slower, but the result is better?
Do they take longer to load the stock?
Any other general comments on the difference between the 2 methods.

Cheers

Rohan

I've had the same experience with a cheap 14" chop saw from Harbor Freight. Unacceptable cuts and noisy to boot.

Bought an HF band saw recently

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

I've cut mild steel tubing 4"x4"x 1/4" wall with excellent results.

Yes, it's slow going with this type of saw. But it does have an auto-off feature that turns the power off when the cut is completed without operator intervention. I just clamp the stock into position (easy task), start the saw, lower it onto the stock and do something else while the saw does its thing. No muss, no fuss.

The HF unit is Chinese built. It's a heavy sucker. Takes 64-1/2" saw blades that cost about $10 U.S.

 

[DanD78]

I gave up chop saws several years ago because of the noise, the mess and having to crawl around on the floor. The saw you pictured looks pretty solid.

I have a Kalamazoo and a Wells. Both are in the 10" capacity range but work best in the 6" or less material range. A brand name used/old saw that you can get parts and blades for can be found for a few hundred dollars if you shop around. Don't force the cuts and don't cut hard steel and the blades will last a long time. Bi-metal blades, skip tooth and wave set are what give me the best results. There are no burrs or hot ends after the saw cuts. A wet saw will give longer blade life but is not necessary for hobby use.

I can't remember the last time I used my chop saw after getting the band saws. I also have a Porter Cable, Porta-Band that I use all the time with great results. One of those may be what you need.

Dan

 

[wushaw]

Mine is simular to what you showed. It is a NorthernTool/ Chinese brand. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...1204337199-building-dump-trailer-dsc00658.jpg

It cuts real nice and square, much better cuts than a chop saw. I still use my chop saw when needed and the cuts don't need to be square.

 

[radman1]

I have both an older metal cutting band saw (Olson?) and a Delta chop saw with fiber type blade. The band saw definitely cuts slower but makes a very nice cut. However, the bi-metal blades cost considerable more and it is not difficult to ruin one. I use the chop saw most of the time just because it is easier/faster to use.

I friend of mine who welds and cuts metal a lot, used an old industrial band saw for years. That saw used a coolant on the blade to prolong the life. About 1-2 years ago he bought a Milwaukee cut off saw with a good metal cutting blade instead of the fiber blade. It is all he uses now. The metal cutting 14" blade cuts fast and great. Blades seem to last a long time. I keep thinking about buying one, but my steel cutting is relatively minimal. I would buy a nice metal cutting blade and forget the bandsaw. You already have the chop saw. The metal cutting blade throws a lot of tiny bits of metal. Be sure to wear eye protection and don't stand behind the saw if someone else is using it. (It stings! Don't ask how I know.)

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

The problem with the chop saw cutting crooked is usually because of cheap blades that flex or cutting to fast. The metal cutting blades work great. The band saw you are looking at will do good for 90deg. cuts but when you start cutting at angles on larger pieces it is hard to get the clamp to hold. If I was going to spend that much money I would buy one that the saw swivels to cut angles.
Bill

 

[simplicityguy92]

i use the steal cutting band saw at school alot i like it but the blade has to be tensioned properly or it cuts real crookded

 

[cleatus]

That saw is branded for several companys and will be a real time saver if you have several cut the same lenght. I have stacked as many as 8-1"x1" sq. tubes and cut at the same time or 8-3/8"x4" bar stock.

 

[rhamer]

Well I was talking to my wife about it over lunch and she suggested I go and count up all the loose change I've been collecting in a jar for a while now.

It turned out there was over $800 in there (and I've still got some small stuff still to count) So I thought that is enough for me to go ahead with the saw.

Then I thought I would have a quick look on ebay, and found a company that was selling them online for $999 Buy it now. I have actually delt with this company a few times before and had no problems, so the deed is done and the saw is bought. It is identical to the one in the link I posted, and it comes with a BiMetal blade, But I'll have to get another couple for spares.

What would be a good number of TPI for the spare blades, they seem to range between 4 and 10 TPI?

Cheers

Rohan

 

[cleatus]

I use 4 and 6 for sawing lumber from logs, so i would think 10 or more. Check this link and notice that the blades say what they will cut. http://grizzly.com/products/7-x-12-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw/G0561

 

[ArTrvlr]

That saw is branded for several companys and will be a real time saver if you have several cut the same lenght. I have stacked as many as 8-1"x1" sq. tubes and cut at the same time or 8-3/8"x4" bar stock.

Cleatus, I believe you are right, I just looked at Jet, Wilton, Harbor Freight and Northern Tool. All have a wet cut bandsaw and they all look like the same machine.

The HF and NT dry cut saw look like they are the same also.

The dry cut saws are about $250.00. The wet cut are from $770.00 to about $1200.00 or $1300.00.

I have used a larger, USA made industrial wet bandsaw where I used to work. I learned it made a quite a bit of difference in cut speed and noise if you didn't turn on the coolant. I am sure blade life was affected as well.

So, here's where I am going with this. I was thinking of buying a metal cutting chop saw... but this thread has me thinking bandsaw instead. And now the gears are turning in my little head... what if I get a dry saw for about $250.00, not use the legs that come with it so I can put a catch tray under it, maybe use a plastic bucket and fountain pump for coolant circulation.... Am I crazy? Any reason this wouldn't/couldn't work? A little home-brewed engineering and save $900.00!
jp

 

[allenr]

Bit late now, but I bought a Bandsaw that looks identical to the one pictured in the Hare & Forbes link, about 12 years ago - it hasn't been used for about the last 8 or 10 years.

It wouldn't cut true and replacing blades was pricey compared to replacing fibre chop saw blades.

The metal cutting 14" blades sound interesting though, any particular brand I should look for and what should I pay? Can they be resharpened?

 

[Renze]

This is the sort of machine I'm looking at https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=B005#

Thats EXACTLY the same unit as i have. Only mine is green and branded Huvema (a Dutch import company) however its built in Taiwan.

After using a 230mm diameter, 2300 Watt angle grinder for years, i am extremely statisfied with it. No more dust, noise and rubbish flying around and no vibrations in your hands, that screw up your steady welding hand when welding the piece you just sawed.

The best thing is, a new saw band costs me 22 euro, which will cut as much as 150 Euro worth of grinding disks (60 disks, i pay 50 euro for a box of 20)

They used to be sold for 1250 Euro. Mine is from 1991 and i bought it for 225 Euro, because the coolant pump was missing. I went to the garden, country and tool shop (i guess its comparable to home depot) and bought a pond fountain pump for 25 euro, which does the job perfectly. I have it switched on with the main power button, running on 1 phase of the 3 phase pushbutton fr the saw motor.

I dont think a chop saw is quicker, but it gives a lot more airborne trash, noise and stinking clothes. The speed depends a lot on the number of teeth per inch of your sawband. Using a course band will make it vibrate and sometimes makes it come off the wheels. The finer varieties will cut thin walled (1.5mm) exhaust pipes fine, but it makes it slow in solid bar.
Chop saws however, also vibrate on thin walled pipes which reduces your grinding disks quickly.

If it is worth to you to buy a brand new one, i'd say go for it. Mine is running fine even though its from 1991. The initial purchase of the saw may be more, but the running cost are 1/3 to 1/4 of an abrasive.


Oh, about the speed: i have only ran my saw at the lowest band speed to increase sawband life. At higher speed it will off course cut faster.

 

[polo1665]

Cleatus, I believe you are right, I just looked at Jet, Wilton, Harbor Freight and Northern Tool. All have a wet cut bandsaw and they all look like the same machine.

The HF and NT dry cut saw look like they are the same also.

The dry cut saws are about $250.00. The wet cut are from $770.00 to about $1200.00 or $1300.00.

I have used a larger, USA made industrial wet bandsaw where I used to work. I learned it made a quite a bit of difference in cut speed and noise if you didn't turn on the coolant. I am sure blade life was affected as well.

So, here's where I am going with this. I was thinking of buying a metal cutting chop saw... but this thread has me thinking bandsaw instead. And now the gears are turning in my little head... what if I get a dry saw for about $250.00, not use the legs that come with it so I can put a catch tray under it, maybe use a plastic bucket and fountain pump for coolant circulation.... Am I crazy? Any reason this wouldn't/couldn't work? A little home-brewed engineering and save $900.00!
jp

I think you have a great idea. If you buy the $250.00 Harbor Freight saw you won't want to leave it on the legs it comes with anyway. The stand can be described as feeble at best. Its a wonder it holds the weight of the saw up. I had planned on making my own stand for it, I may "borrow" your coolant idea. I also have a problem getting mine to cut straight and true. Probably just my inexperience with adjusting it. What the heck, for $189.00 (on sale) its worth not having hot sparks flying all over the garage. Before I got it I didn't even have a chop saw. I was using an angle grinder with a cutting wheel in it. Scared the crap out of myself more than once using the angel grinder

Mark

 

[cruzer]

4x6 Bandsaw Mods

4x6 Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw FAQ

sawking : 4x6 Bandsaw Cutting Tips!

those are just some of the quick ones i found searching in google using 4x6 bandsaw I have seen a coupld guys add coolant to them as described and it deffinitly helps.

My dad got his from a freind not working, the worm gears were shot and then motor was shot. We tossed a motor on it, got some new gears and away she went. I used it to build my 4x4 land cruiser among other things.

Stew

 

[joes_427_vette]

I have an ELLIS brand bandsaw. It is portable, cuts angles with ease and is very user friendly. It is compact and sturdy cutting without messy fluids. Ideal for a fab shop where your not cutting the same pieces over and over. Check them out on the web.

 

[wushaw]

Yes the Ellis would be nice. If I had to use a production saw then yes Ellis would be on the short list.

Rohan; I have a Bi-metal 10-14 TPI in my saw right now that has cut lots of metal, I would look at Bi-metal 10-14 or 14-18.

 

[2manyrocks]

One of the links posted by Cruzer further links to a great article on making a stand for and adding coolant to the basic 4x6 bandsaw.

Stand for bandsaw

Every now and then a used Wells, Kalamazoo or similar saw will show up, but the tawianese saws are much more plentiful.

Bought my last blades from Enco and have been pleased with them.

 

[ArTrvlr]

I think you have a great idea. If you buy the $250.00 Harbor Freight saw you won't want to leave it on the legs it comes with anyway. The stand can be described as feeble at best. Its a wonder it holds the weight of the saw up. I had planned on making my own stand for it, I may "borrow" your coolant idea. I also have a problem getting mine to cut straight and true. Probably just my inexperience with adjusting it. What the heck, for $189.00 (on sale) its worth not having hot sparks flying all over the garage. Before I got it I didn't even have a chop saw. I was using an angle grinder with a cutting wheel in it. Scared the crap out of myself more than once using the angel grinder

Mark

Well, I bought the HF saw today. On sale for 199, -a 20% discount coupon from this thread: Harbor Freight Coupon - TractorByNet.com Thanks to Scotty370!
Also picked up a couple of extra blades, including... hold your breath, a bimetal blade made in USA! Highly unusual for HF. It is a SuperCut brand, made by SuperCut Bandsaw Co. in Rathdrum ID. The other one was made in India. I will set it up with the original stand first, and use it some dry. Gotta use it some inside that great 90 day warranty to shake out any bugs. My experience with HF power tools is one of three results: (1)DOA, won't even run, right out of the box, (2)Runs, but only lasts a very short while, then dies, or (3)If it makes it past a good hard break-in period it is good to go. (I know, others have many varied experiences with HF, that's just my own.)

One of the links posted by Cruzer further links to a great article on making a stand for and adding coolant to the basic 4x6 bandsaw.

Stand for bandsaw

Every now and then a used Wells, Kalamazoo or similar saw will show up, but the tawianese saws are much more plentiful.

Bought my last blades from Enco and have been pleased with them.

Thanks 2manyrocks and Cruzer. I should have known my idea wasn't original. The article in the link above is exactly what I had in mind. One thing not addressed in that article is a wire brush mounted against the blade to clean the chips off before it goes back around the drive wheel. The wet model I saw at HF today had a stationary one. The industrial bandsaw I have used in the past had two round wire brushes, one on each side of the blade, mounted at an angle. They rotated as the blade passed between them and brushed the wet chips off.

joes_427_vette, does your Ellis have an air system to cool the blade? If so, does that work well? Does it blow the chips everywhere? Air instead of oil could be an option. Seems it would be a lot easier to setup than oil.
Thanks, jp

 

[kthompson]

ArT, I have a drill press that has a gravity flow lubricant system. Very simple with a catch bottle under the drill table. I have found using a little cutting oil (for threading) works great for me in drilling and dry band saw work. Use to work for large company and they used a water based lubricant so as not to create problems for welding or slick floors. No idea how well it worked compared to oil.