Grading Grading lawn for new grass

[SI2305]

Hello TBNR's, Its been a long time since I posted, but I have a question for anyone out there.

I have a patch of lawn in my backyard that is darn difficult to grow grass on. It slopes west into a dense wooded lot, is about 25-30 feet wide (East to west) and about 150 feet long (North to South). I live in Southern Illinois where we get terribly hot summers, and this patch of "lawn" gets the worst combination of heat and shade. I am thinking about grading over it and starting from scratch.

With that in mind, what would be the best implement to use to grade this sloped area so that the sun-baked clay can get nice and tilled up again. I own a JD 2305 and absolutely love it. As far as implements, I have a cx200 loader, LX4, and 5'grader blade. I would like to get something that would not be too terribly expensive that could be used to till the ground and still be used for other projects.

Does this mean a landscape rake? Will it actually till deeply? A box blade? Will it till evenly? I really don't want to spend the money on a tiller, but any advice is appreciated.

Thanks in advance

SI 2305

 

[Dutch445]

See if you can find a small power-rake to rent,
and you will be thrilled with the results.

 

[Runner]

SI2305,

A landscape rake won't do much for tilling soil. Obviously, a tiller is best for tilling, but not good for much else, and pretty expensive.

My recommendation would be a box blade. When you put the rippers down, it will break up the soil and the blade smoothes it back out.

You will be surprised at how many uses you find for a box blade, not the least of which is to act as a counter balance for the loader.

If you wanted to go cheaper, you could also try a middle buster, then smooth it out with the grader blade. This would be slower, but would still work and give you some more seat time.

Best of luck.

 

[cast_and_blast]

I think Dutch445 meant Harley Rake, not power-rake. I have a 2305 as well and you'll probably have a hard time finding one to fit the 2305 - most places here will rent them, but they come with a little bigger tractor too.

You'll have better luck finding a tiller for rent. You're not dealing with that large of an area so perhaps a (gasp!!) walk-behind rear-tine tiller would be an option. Run the tines in reverse, go over it once, add soil amendments, go over again. Seed, lightly rake, cover (straw or the like if needed) and water. Water in small amounts several times per day.

Many folks sing the praises of the King Kutter tiller - it's about $1400 to purchase.

You may want to take a soil sample and have it analyzed so you can make the proper soil amendments - it makes a HUGE difference.

So - my opinions on options:

1. Harley rake
2. Tiller
3. Box blade or other "ripper"

Good luck!

Scott

 

[Dutch445]

Harley Rake, Power Rake, all the same to me, just one's a name brand.


There are also walk behind units that might be rentable.. or a tiller.

What's nice with the harley style rake is it really prepares the seedbed
nicely, while windrowing rocks/sod etc for a once and done finished job.

Also, agree with the soil sampling, may need some lime worked into the mix.

good luck!

 

[SI2305]

Runner,

I hear you about the landscape rake, and that was my biggest concern. Also, I do already have a garden tiller, but this job seems huge for my front tine, walk-behind unit, and I doubt I can talk my wife into getting another tiller when we already have one. Forgive me, but could you explain to me what a "middle buster" is? Is this similar to a subsoiler?

Thanks in advance,



SI2305

 

[Runner]

A middle buster is like a subsoiler, but has a V shaped plow blade (you can tell I'm not a farmer...) in place of the tooth.

Actually, I used the wrong name, when I said middle buster, I was thinking of a subsoiler. They're pretty close to the same thing though, and King Kutter is one company that makes both.

 

[cast_and_blast]

Harley Rake, Power Rake, all the same to me, just one's a name brand.


There are also walk behind units that might be rentable.. or a tiller.

What's nice with the harley style rake is it really prepares the seedbed
nicely, while windrowing rocks/sod etc for a once and done finished job.

Also, agree with the soil sampling, may need some lime worked into the mix.

good luck!

Hmmm...interesting. Here in MN a "power rake" is a motorized dethatcher. Guess that is where my thought process was.

Scott

 

[cast_and_blast]

Runner,

I hear you about the landscape rake, and that was my biggest concern. Also, I do already have a garden tiller, but this job seems huge for my front tine, walk-behind unit, and I doubt I can talk my wife into getting another tiller when we already have one. Forgive me, but could you explain to me what a "middle buster" is? Is this similar to a subsoiler?

Thanks in advance,



SI2305

Look for a rental 4' or 50" tiller or rent a rear-tine tiller that can run the tines in either direction - you'll want to run them in reverse.

Completely different beast than the front-tine tiller that you have - you can walk alongside with one hand on the tiller and a beer in the other (done that). Of course the 3-point tiller is the ultimate, but not sure what you have for rental places nearby or folks you could borrow one from.

Good luck!

Scott

 

[SI2305]

Cast and Blast

Actually I have used the rear tine units you are talking about and you are absolutely right about them. I also probably could just rent a 3pt tiller, but I was hoping to use this as an opportunity to add another implement to my collection, hence the opening thoughts about landscape rake or box blade. Another project I have in mind is to do about 200 feet of shallow trenching for an irrigation system for my expanding fruit patch and orchard. Around here, all I have to do is bury the line about 6 inches and it is safe from frost or freezing. I imagine that a BB with just one ripper dropped all the way down would do the trick. For that matter, so would a subsoiler. Thanks though for the info, this gives me more opportunities to play (I mean work) with my tractor.

SI2305

 

[asylum575]

I used a box blade to loosen up the soil. After it was fluffy, I raked the loose soil where I wanted it. You may need a few passes with each.

 

[LBrown59]

You'll have better luck finding a tiller for rent.
Many folks sing the praises of the King Kutter tiller - it's about $1400 to purchase.Scott

You might be able to get a used tiller for bout half of new.

 

[NuBota]

I just recently did some similar work - experimented with the implements I have - the FEL and a rear blade. First I made a couple of passes with the RB going about 2 inches deep each time creating a pile. Then redistributed the pile smoothed it back out. Did some areas with the FEL and found it seemed a little easier. I did grab a chain drag harrow from TSC to finish smoothing, mixing in lime and finally seeding. Not as efficient as a tiller or power rake, or even a box blade, but got good seat time, good practice on fine tuning FEL and RB technique and the harrow came in handy for de-thatching the rest of the yard and prepping for over-seeding. Also, my yard is all pea gravel and clay/sand. Harrow works well for moving the rocks that congregate on top.

Not saying this is the way to do it - but I have very little use for a tiller /power rake - would be a one time deal. A BB would get more use, but not significant enough to justify the expense - yet. I expect to grab one eventually, but I've learned to use the RB and as a landscape rake and grader, and it's good for snow (if we ever get any again). Wish we had a place that rented 3ph implements.....

 

[SI2305]

NuBota,

I am just curious, how did you get your RB to dig in two inches? Maybe you have some softer soil than I do. The clay soil I have in direct summer heat with no grass to cover it (exactly the reason I need grass on it in the first place!) turns into something just shy of concrete. I imagine that the RB would scrape up a little dust, but I would be amazed if it could actually dig in two inches.

Now the RB works very well for my grading and smoothing out lumps on my gravel driveway, and it can nicely angle to catch those little "windrows" of rock that the tires of the cars tend to push over to the edge. If I angle it right, I can bring these right back in place. The RB is great for snow--last winter I dug out our neighbor who was so stuck thath AAA drove by and refused to her tow out because they deemed her driveway impassable! A couple of passes with my 2305 and rear blade and her driveway was as clear as could be. So much for AAA!

This has wandered, but I still am curious as to how effectively the RB would work on my hard clay. I am also thinking that any implement I use for this would also be useful for my trenching plan I have for my orchard. As I said before, the winters here are mild enough that frozen soil should not be a problem as long as I stay at about 4-6 inches deep. By the way, thanks to all who have replied, this has been very useful to me.


SI2305

JD 2305
CX200 loader
LX4
5' Grader Blade

 

[Egon]

SI2305, is this strip of lawn between trees? If so attempts at establishing a conventional lawn be be very difficult as the tree roots will take up most of the moisture during dry period's and just in general prohibit the growth of regular lawn grasses.

If this is the case perhaps think of other vegetation or grasses to grow in this area and perhaps rethink your mowing techniques.

All I'm am trying to say is that with the best of cultivation and lawn type grasses this area may not be Ideal for lawn and other options could be looked at.

 

[KML]

SI2305,
I'm in southern Indiana and have a very hard clay soil as well. I agree that a rear blade is not effective for this. Here's what I've found..

Rear blade: My blade weights over 300 pounds and when the clay is dry it just skips accross the surface. Even adding 200 pounds to it doesn't make muck of a difference. Try to work it when it's wet and you'll have moguls.

A landscape rake will do SOME good and take it down about 1/2" per pass. Not anywhere near as good as a power rake but passable. One of the more used tools I have especially for the gravel drive. Also great for finish leveling areas you disturbed in the yard like trenches. Get gauge wheels!

I have a subsoiler/middle buster combo and have used it for trenching water, electric, and drain tile and must say it has earned its keep. If you do any gardening at all it makes a huge difference in the soil for tilling and planting.

I have a walk behind rear tine and a 50" PTO tiller (JD 450) and just dropping the tiller on virgin hard baked clay is hard on the tiller. Run through with the subsoiler first and then till and it's SOOOO much easier.

So with that all said, If I were you and wanted to justify a new tool (toy) and money was a concern I'd get the sub soiler. It's cheap, will do this job, and will be worth it's weight in gold for the trenching to come. It makes any tilling you do with your walk behind much easier on you and the tiller. Make sure you get one for a SCUT as some of the bigger ones won't come up high enough to clear the ground on my 2210. I have a FarmForce SC from TSC and have been happy with it.

I also agree with egon, I had a trouble area that just kept getting sun baked in the heat of the summer and grass had a hard time. I seeded it with Dutch white clover and have been very happy with it. Something to think about..

 

[LBrown59]

I have a bare spot 25 x75 .
I plan to till it down about an inch or 2 with the tiller on the BX1500 then drag it with a small drag I made for the other BX1500.
Plant the grass and cover with straw/hay.

 

[NuBota]

SI2305,

The soil is pretty compacted, but breaks apart easily. It is very much like what they consider bank run around here. Basically a reddish brown loam (I think that is the right term) with a bunch of pea gravel. Main difference it seems like it is more than 50% gravel. When I was trying to get soil samples with a trowel, 4" down, I basically had to fill a coffee can and then sift out the rocks to get a good sample of dirt. And wore blisters digging it up. Great stuff to try and grow grass in....(not!) I don't hit hard packed clay until about 16+" down. I would imagine the RB on that would be less capable, but for me, only thing hitting that is the hoe. I have a Wood's RB60, think it's about 230#. My biggest challenge has always been keeping it from biting too deep.

I did like using the FEL to dig/scrape. Took some practice, but got pretty good at it, even on the slopes. But, again, not sure how it would fare in hard clay. Definitely think you need tiller/power rake or BB/subsoiler to break that stuff up.

I also struggle with the wooded /shady areas - Oak, Beech and Black Walnut. The Oaks seem to cause the soil to become more acidic. PH is much lower (5.5-6.0) there than in my cleared front yard (which holds well at 7.0 with very infrequent lime application). Holly Trees grow like weeds at the base of the oaks. Even when the grass takes in the gravel and shade, it struggles. I am going to attack the PH issue hard now and see if it improves - if not, will look for other ground cover.....

 

[ChrisJD4320]

I have a tiller and a middle buster. The tiller does a great job turning hard packed soil into a fluffy seedbed that's perfect for new grass. I bought the middle buster because I can take the plow blade off and turn it into a subsoiler. A 2" X 8" piece of 1/4" steel (or so) would bolt on and VOILA! Two implements for the price of one!. TSC probably has chisel points or something I could bolt on as well. I need to check that out. Good luck!

 

[ispan1]

Any thoughts on regrading a bumpy clay lawn? 3 acres worth?