Snow Attachments Horst vs Woods Box Scraper for SNOW

[razor]

Horst vs Woods Rear Blade with Wings for SNOW

Wanting to buy Rear Blade with Wings for a L5030 kubota tractor for getting snow out of individual parking spots at a condo. Anybody try both snow blades? pros and cons of both?

thanks
christine and ray

 

[Dyer retired]

Wanting to buy Box Scraper for the back of a 5030 kubota tractor for getting snow out of individual parking spots at a condo. Anybody try both box scrapers? pros and cons of both?

thanks
christine and ray

Christine and Ray,

I don't have a box scraper, so this is just a question I have out of curiosity.......I have a different picture of what a box scraper is used for and, although I'm sure it would work, is there a reason you're looking at those instead of a blade? The box blades I've seen have curled edges facing fowards and back, so it seems like you could only get within 4 to 6 inches of a back edge, where a blade would provide much closer work? I'm sure I'm missing something, so I'll be anxious to see the responses from more experienced TBN'ers. Dyer, retired

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I've never used a box blade for snow removal. That task always fell upon a rear blade OR front loader. So, I might be the wrong person to comment on the subject. However, I have an opinion (that may prove to be all wrong) I'd think snow, at least wet snow, would tend to pack inside a box blade. I'm in agreement with the gentleman above who recommends a rear blade with the "wings" (end plates) on each end. Seems that would work much better IMHO.

http://www.woodsequipment.com/lands...spx?id=10045&ekmensel=41a6502d_67_377_10045_1 (see Woods add for picture of "end plates")

 

[razor]

thanks I re-worded post and thanks for link to woods

 

[jbrumberg]

C & R:

Welcome to TBN ! LandPride also makes a rearblade with those endplates i.e. "wings". I have used my boxblade for some snow removal and breaking up ice on my gravel driveway, but I keep my BB on my tractor more for ballast reasons. I agree with the previous posters, you would be better off with a rear blade IMHO. Jay

 

[Dyer retired]

Re: Horst vs Woods Rear Blade with Wings for SNOW

Wanting to buy Rear Blade with Wings for a L5030 kubota tractor for getting snow out of individual parking spots at a condo. Anybody try both snow blades? pros and cons of both?

thanks
christine and ray

Christine and Ray,

I have a 5 foot Woods blade on the rear of my BX1800, so I can only talk about that brand. I had a 6 foot "worksaver" blade prior to that, but found that it was a little big for my tractor and so my neighbor bought that blade for his B2620. The Woods blades are rugged, well built, heavy rigs with all the adjustments I'll ever need and can be picked up fairly reasonably. I can back my blade up to my front steps and pull snow to within an inch of the cement...makes shoveling the doorstep a lot quicker. I've pulled and pushed dirt all summer with the new blade and haven't found one thing to complain about, so I anticipate that using it in the snow will be fine. I used the worksaver 6 foot blade for 5 years in the snow and it worked great, but for dirt work I needed something a little smaller and the 5 foot Woods was the right solution.

A caution here....I pushed snow for 4 winters without a problem. On year 5, I pushed up against a frozen snow bank and bent one of my drag links. With an easy fix from 3RRL, I reinforced my new links and have pushed dirt all summer without issue and pulling dirt would not have threatened the links anyway. I push much of my driveway snow (after the ground as frozen) with the blade reversed and then use the snowblower to throw the piles into the woods. I get less snow in the face that way. I've installed some skid shoes on the blade for snow work this year and that will allow for less digging into the dirt during the periods the driveway is softer. I also notice the increased traction with the weight of the rear blade on and keep it on all winter. I think you'll find most any of the blades you look at, in the brands you mentioned, to be good quality, long lasting implements and suited to what you intend to use it for. Dyer, retired

 

[wny770]

One thing for sure, you sure can adjust that woods scraper blade to pretty do anything you want it to do. A box blade for snow on stones will work good in reverse, because the rear cutting edge is usually higher, but a scraper will work better on concrete, blacktop, etc.... I too have a woods rb60 and I LOVE IT!

 

[razor]

through research I/we just realized woods rear blade with wings is to short, I need approx. 30 inches high, 6-7 foot wide so woods is out and horst I think can make one
christine

 

[razor]

Also, we are looking into a monroe tufline high capacity box scraper without scarifier model PHB84, it is 25 1/2 inches high, 36 inches deep (wings), 7 ft width the price is attractive, but we are concerned about the cutting edge damaging the pavement? and concerned about if the mold board is curved or straight?
christine

 

[john_bud]

Also, we are looking into a monroe tufline high capacity box scraper without scarifier model PHB84, it is 25 1/2 inches high, 36 inches deep (wings), 7 ft width the price is attractive, but we are concerned about the cutting edge damaging the pavement? and concerned about if the mold board is curved or straight?
christine

Don't be concerned about it damaging the pavement. Box blades are created to dig. That's what will happen, you will peel off the blacktop like nothing. No reason to be concerned, because it will happen!

jb

 

[pitt_md]

Don't be concerned about it damaging the pavement. Box blades are created to dig. That's what will happen, you will peel off the blacktop like nothing. No reason to be concerned, because it will happen!

jb

While I have never used my BB on pavement I would think a simple adjustment of the toplink would prevent digging problems.

 

[john_bud]

While I have never used my BB on pavement I would think a simple adjustment of the toplink would prevent digging problems.

You are correct, IF (!) you adjust the top link for pulling forward, then adjust it for pushing backwards and NEVER forget to make the adjustment.

To keep from peeling off the asphault, you would have to tilt it nose high. A lot, so the back blade was holding the weight. But, in that configuration it will tear up the pavement if you go backwards. To push snow backwards, the rear has to be high and the nose low. But that configuration will dig going forward. When I move snow, the machine goes forwards and backwards a lot, there is just too much opportunity to look back and see a pile of "black snow".

Maybe if a set of extenders was added to the bottom sides of the box, that would raise the blades up and it could be done. But, for the amount of time, effort, money, etc, I would just buy a used 6-8' back blade and be done. Proper tool for the job and all that.

jb

 

[browns40]

I've used a box blade(72") around doors and entries at work with great success the last couple of seasons... one of them is a dead end about 40 ft that you'd use a blower on otherwise...

I couldn't be happier really--back up to where you want it, set it down and remove the snow... no windrows... does individual spaces great too if you get a doozy during higher traffic...

It isn't great for deeper than a foot (or less with the real heavy stuff), but for precision removal it's ideal.

 

[razor]

thanks for posts,

we just picked up the tufline box scraper. the price was right. it's huge. similar to our front pusher. hopefully it will do the job. Our dealer says adjust link so it doesn't scrape like you said. we might put shoes on if it does start taking asphalt up. We will be taking the snow from one end of parking lot to the other. He said the snow will built up under the tractor and we will start sliding. so, we will have to lift up box and let some snow out or hopefully excess snow flows out over sides??

christine

 

[browns40]

Hi Christine,

Then you back up over the pile & push it ahead with the FEL.

I always end up with windrows at some point "down the road" when using the box on a large open area, because of the limited capacity of the box blade.

For open areas, the angled blade rules... for the tight spaces the box.

 

[ZekeR]

I have a Woods 5' blade it's endless what you can use it for. From grading roads to digging drain trenches to moving snow to spreading dirt.

 

[Rara Avis]

Re: Horst vs Woods Rear Blade with Wings for SNOW

Wanting to buy Rear Blade with Wings for a L5030 kubota tractor for getting snow out of individual parking spots at a condo. Anybody try both snow blades? pros and cons of both?

thanks
christine and ray

For commercial snow removal...this is the machine for you...
Pronovost- PXPL Snowblowers

You can run right up to the parking stop and then hook the snow and blow it out as you leave the space...check out the video...

 

[LBrown59]

Re: Horst vs Woods Rear Blade with Wings for SNOW

Christine and Ray,
A caution here....I pushed snow for 4 winters without a problem. On year 5, I pushed up against a frozen snow bank and bent one of my drag links. With an easy fix from 3RRL,

I see you still have the S M V sign on your BX.
I took those signs of both of my BX1500s cause i was always bumping my hands arms or elbows on them.
Don't need them on tractors that stay on my property anyway.

 

[Dyer retired]

Re: Horst vs Woods Rear Blade with Wings for SNOW

I see you still have the S M V sign on your BX.

My driveway is located just as you start on a downslope and there is a lot of traffic on the road. I keep the sign on and generally turn all the lights I have on when I'm out near the road. In the winter, the plows push a lot of snow into the driveway, so it takes a fair amount of time cleaning the mouth of the driveway out...which puts me close to traffic. I try to be as visible as possible and I figure the sign helps. I upgraded to a 40 amp alternator this summer, so I won't be draining the battery this year when clearing snow for long periods with all the lights going. Dyer, retired

 

[LBrown59]

Re: Horst vs Woods Rear Blade with Wings for SNOW

My driveway is located just as you start on a downslope and there is a lot of traffic on the road. I keep the sign on and generally turn all the lights I have on when I'm out near the road. In the winter, the plows push a lot of snow into the driveway, so it takes a fair amount of time cleaning the mouth of the driveway out...which puts me close to traffic. I try to be as visible as possible and I figure the sign helps. I upgraded to a 40 amp alternator this summer, so I won't be draining the battery this year when clearing snow for long periods with all the lights going. Dyer, retired

I left the brackets on the tractors and put the sighs up where they are handy if i need to take the tractor out on the road.