Broke a tiger tooth - Welding help

[brianMO]

Hello all,

Kinda bums me a bit. My tractor is only about 6 weeks old. I was trying to turn a trailer back on its upside with my bucket. I must have binded a tooth. This looks to be a cast metal. It is a clean break. I was wondering if I could just weld it with 6011 to get the pentration, then top it with 7018. Should I heat it up with a torch, weld it then cool it slow. Should I anneal it? I need some advice. Nickel rod? I will try to send pics.

 

[AlanB]

Often those are just pinned on, can you replace the entire thing?

I would weld it if I could not just replace it because the effects of a failure would be pretty minimal in my opinion. The rod combination above, and slow cooling should be fine. I would probably cool in a sandbox.

 

[brianMO]

These do have the replaceable teeth for the ends, but that did not break. I broke before then. Do you think I need to heat it up really good first?

 

[AlanB]

Got a picture?

If it is the "mount" for the tooth, it was probably designed to be welded anyway, I would imagine that it is welded to the bar or the bucket.

So, yes, I would weld it, I am picturing a large cross section so yes, I would probably go ahead and pre-heat.

I would probably call Allen at Markham welding and just ask if he would share some advice as I think he does it daily.

 

[brianMO]

I will try to get the pics tonight.

 

[brianMO]

the pics

 

[Eagleview]

It really wants 'V'ing out so that you can weld from the bottom to the top . Why is the lower leg not welded to the bottom of the bucket ?

 

[KevPH1]

It really wants 'V'ing out so that you can weld from the bottom to the top . Why is the lower leg not welded to the bottom of the bucket ?

Looks like an add-on tooth bar. Might unbolt the tooth bar to v-out and weld easier.
Could also, shiplap/weld additional steel to the shank for extra strength.
This repair is very do-able!
Good luck

 

[MikeD74T]

Grind off the welds holding that shank to the cutting edge & replace the shank with a new one. You don't want to do this job twice to save $25 on a junk shank. MikeD74T

 

[brianMO]

I think I will try to weld first. I understand the doing it twice concept, but I get a charge when it does work for several years. If it breaks again I will replace the shank. Why spend extra money. Afterall, I am supposed to be a welder! What do you think, grind smooth, V out, heat up to 300 or 400 degree with my o/a, and hit with 1/8 7018 at about 140 amps dcep? Might as well strengten all while I have the bar off.

 

[ScottFarm]

I think if that were mine, I'd fab a new brace out of steel and remove and replace what is there. Would that work.

 

[Willl]

grind smooth, V out, heat up to 300 or 400 degree with my o/a, and hit with 1/8 7018 at about 140 amps dcep?

Thats about what I would do.

Are ya done yet ?

 

[MikeD74T]

Take a look at the original fit to the bucket's cutting edge. That's what should be carring most of the force. My Markham was a pretty good fit as built but I took a grinder to one tooth to get a real tight fit. If you have a good fit to the cutting edge welding may be good enough. It's your time & your welding rod, and you don't have to tell a soul if it don't work. MikeD74T

 

[Soundguy]

I agree with Alan.. it was welde donce.. so weld it again with good prep.. 6011 and lots o' juice.. then that nicer 7018 on top.

soundguy

 

[john_bud]

It will need the pre-heat 4-500 and a post weld anneal. That's more insurance against weld cracking.

I suspect that the root cause was the tooth bar was installed too loose. There should be zero gap or wiggle of the teeth when installed.

jb

 

[3RRL]

Yeah, it's a tooth.
"V" it all around, clamp tight and weld it all around. If it breaks again, big deal.
Your combo of 6011 root weld and 7018 finish sounds perfect to me.

 

[brianMO]

Just to let you know I finally got time to make my repair. I V it out deep and used 7018 all the way at about 150 amps DCEP. I let it cool and hit it again to make it strong. It looks to be a good fix. I reinforce all the other teeth on the back side. I will try to send pics. I decided to v deep and not root it with 6011. I felt 7018 would be much more tough to break. Thx alot for everybodies input. It is not the most beautiful weld I have done but penetration looked good and it will probably out last the other teeth.

 

[Eagleview]

That's why they make 4" grinders , just make the welds proud and grind back . Finish with a 36 grit soft disc and you wont even see where it was .