Broke a tiger tooth - Welding help

[brianMO]

Hello all,

Kinda bums me a bit. My tractor is only about 6 weeks old. I was trying to turn a trailer back on its upside with my bucket. I must have binded a tooth. This looks to be a cast metal. It is a clean break. I was wondering if I could just weld it with 6011 to get the pentration, then top it with 7018. Should I heat it up with a torch, weld it then cool it slow. Should I anneal it? I need some advice. Nickel rod? I will try to send pics.

 

[AlanB]

Often those are just pinned on, can you replace the entire thing?

I would weld it if I could not just replace it because the effects of a failure would be pretty minimal in my opinion. The rod combination above, and slow cooling should be fine. I would probably cool in a sandbox.

 

[brianMO]

These do have the replaceable teeth for the ends, but that did not break. I broke before then. Do you think I need to heat it up really good first?

 

[AlanB]

Got a picture?

If it is the "mount" for the tooth, it was probably designed to be welded anyway, I would imagine that it is welded to the bar or the bucket.

So, yes, I would weld it, I am picturing a large cross section so yes, I would probably go ahead and pre-heat.

I would probably call Allen at Markham welding and just ask if he would share some advice as I think he does it daily.

 

[brianMO]

I will try to get the pics tonight.

 

[brianMO]

the pics

 

[Eagleview]

It really wants 'V'ing out so that you can weld from the bottom to the top . Why is the lower leg not welded to the bottom of the bucket ?

 

[KevPH1]

It really wants 'V'ing out so that you can weld from the bottom to the top . Why is the lower leg not welded to the bottom of the bucket ?

Looks like an add-on tooth bar. Might unbolt the tooth bar to v-out and weld easier.
Could also, shiplap/weld additional steel to the shank for extra strength.
This repair is very do-able!
Good luck

 

[MikeD74T]

Grind off the welds holding that shank to the cutting edge & replace the shank with a new one. You don't want to do this job twice to save $25 on a junk shank. MikeD74T

 

[brianMO]

I think I will try to weld first. I understand the doing it twice concept, but I get a charge when it does work for several years. If it breaks again I will replace the shank. Why spend extra money. Afterall, I am supposed to be a welder! What do you think, grind smooth, V out, heat up to 300 or 400 degree with my o/a, and hit with 1/8 7018 at about 140 amps dcep? Might as well strengten all while I have the bar off.