Snowblowing rules of thumb

[smfcpacfp]

I have developed some snow blowing "rules of thumb" over the years that some of you newbies to snow blowing may want to consider. I figure that I have moved about 5400 inches of snow with my three snow blowing rigs. Feel free to add to my list, I am always looking for new techniques:

RULE 1. This is an obvious one - don't put your hand in the moving augers.

RULE 2. Always clean all of the snow off of your equipment. I learned this the hard way the second time that I snow blowed. The snow blower was making a **** of a racket when I started, and then I noticed smoke coming from the drive belts in the back. So I shut it down and called the dealer. "Didn't you clean out the augers after you finished. When the snow melts it freezes on the bottom of the impeller assembly such that the impeller won't turn."

Now I clean off everything, but especially anything which if frozen could make it difficult to start the machine. With my new rig, I wipe all of the water off of the cab, clean off the wipers and pull them away from the wind shield. Of course, it helps if you have a garage.

RULE 3. Never put the blower on the ground on a gravel driveway the first time you use it, unless you enjoy changing sheer bolts. This way the ground will freeze better for future use. As a matter of fact I generally run my SUV up-and-down the driveway a few times in the snow to pack it into the gravel before I snow blow for the first time.

RULE 4. When the snow is deep, take smaller cuts of snow. My first run in the snow is very very slow, usually painfully slow. For a guy who used to race motorcycles professionally, this is very hard to do. My next cut might be a third of the width of the blower or less. I would rather make more runs and use a little more fuel, then be replacing belts as I did with my old snowblower. The guy who wrote the Kubota snowblower manual obviously has never snow blown before. It says in deep snow take the top layer off and work your way down. To me this is nonsensical. You're going to be driving a tractor in the deep snow and making a general mess. How about just taking a narrower cut of the snowblower potential? Anyway I have been doing this and it has saved many a belt on my old snowblower.

 

[hazmat]

Actually I sometimes use the lift it up method for the pile at the end of the drive from the road plow. Especially breaking thru the first time after a big storm (so far I've had a 1/2 dozen storms with 18"+). I wouldn't do it for the whole drive though..

If schedule allows, I like to hit the drive before it becomes overwhelming - ie if expecting 12"+ make a pass 1/2 way thru the storm. Not that I'm going to wake up in the middle of the night or anything, but if it has been snowing all day, I might hit it in the evening & again the next morning. It's nice to keep the drive passable in case of emergency (health, fire, run out of beer ).

 

[ByronBob]

Your post talks about a belt. I'm guessing this is a lawn tractor set up?

How about if you have a 3pt RMSB? I would think it might be able to take more aggressive conditions.

Could you clarify this for me? Thanks

Bob

 

[ccsial]

I thought you were going to say "don't get your thumb caught in the blower"

I always turn the garage heat on for a bit and melt the snow to prevent ice.

Have some shear bolts in stock just in case.

Keep the lubrication and maintenance current.

 

[WayneB]

I have developed some snow blowing "rules of thumb" over the years that some of you newbies to snow blowing may want to consider. I figure that I have moved about 5400 inches of snow with my three snow blowing rigs. Feel free to add to my list, I am always looking for new techniques:

RULE 1. This is an obvious one - don't put your hand in the moving augers.

You know people will do this without thinking. I saw my neighbor use a sitck to clean out the chute with the PTO running. I immediately told him to shut it off, but he told me not to worry the stick will brake if it hits something!

RULE 2. Always clean all of the snow off of your equipment. I learned this the hard way the second time that I snow blowed. The snow blower was making a **** of a racket when I started, and then I noticed smoke coming from the drive belts in the back. So I shut it down and called the dealer. "Didn't you clean out the augers after you finished. When the snow melts it freezes on the bottom of the impeller assembly such that the impeller won't turn."

I don't think you will have that problem with your new rig, although it is a good idea to clean off the snow. Guess I will have to start doing that!

Now I clean off everything, but especially anything which if frozen could make it difficult to start the machine. With my new rig, I wipe all of the water off of the cab, clean off the wipers and pull them away from the wind shield. Of course, it helps if you have a garage.

RULE 3. Never put the blower on the ground on a gravel driveway the first time you use it, unless you enjoy changing sheer bolts. This way the ground will freeze better for future use. As a matter of fact I generally run my SUV up-and-down the driveway a few times in the snow to pack it into the gravel before I snow blow for the first time.

Darn it is always so much fun to hear rocks going up the chute! Have to wonder which way it is directed?

RULE 4. When the snow is deep, take smaller cuts of snow. My first run in the snow is very very slow, usually painfully slow.

Again I am pretty sure you won't have too much to worry about with your new rig. It will be interesting to read your posting after that first major snow fall.

For a guy who used to race motorcycles professionally, this is very hard to do. My next cut might be a third of the width of the blower or less. I would rather make more runs and use a little more fuel, then be replacing belts as I did with my old snowblower. The guy who wrote the Kubota snowblower manual obviously has never snow blown before. It says in deep snow take the top layer off and work your way down. To me this is nonsensical. You're going to be driving a tractor in the deep snow and making a general mess. How about just taking a narrower cut of the snowblower potential? Anyway I have been doing this and it has saved many a belt on my old snowblower.

I find with my snowblower it works so much better when there is more than a foot of snow. You can just hear the difference as it is blowing it away. Not sure you will get the same sounds sitting in that heated cab.

 

[davitk]

RULE 5. If you don't have a heated cab, always aim the shoot into the wind. Chicks dig the icicle beard.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have developed some snow blowing "rules of thumb" over the years that some of you newbies to snow blowing may want to consider. I figure that I have moved about 5400 inches of snow with my three snow blowing rigs. Feel free to add to my list, I am always looking for new techniques:

RULE 4. When the snow is deep, take smaller cuts of snow. My first run in the snow is very very slow, usually painfully slow. For a guy who used to race motorcycles professionally, this is very hard to do. My next cut might be a third of the width of the blower or less. I would rather make more runs and use a little more fuel, then be replacing belts as I did with my old snowblower. The guy who wrote the Kubota snowblower manual obviously has never snow blown before. It says in deep snow take the top layer off and work your way down. To me this is nonsensical. You're going to be driving a tractor in the deep snow and making a general mess. How about just taking a narrower cut of the snowblower potential? Anyway I have been doing this and it has saved many a belt on my old snowblower.

Are you saying you dont have enuf HP? I find when you bull the snow it throws much better. I have a lot of experience with a 2' walk behind with 8HP. It will do 16" full width at 4MPH - as fast as you can walk. I do 4passes on my .9mi drive in an hour with regas at 1/2 way. If you slow down it doesnt throw the snow as far. I bought a front mount for my BX 1500 and from the one time I used it I know Im underpowered. If we start getting some regular snow I will mount an auxiliary 5HP engine on it to aid the tractor PTO. From knowing how they should work I wont settle for an underpowered setup. Robs you of satisfaction.
larry

 

[hazmat]

Are you saying you dont have enuf HP? I find when you bull the snow it throws much better. I have a lot of experience with a 2' walk behind with 8HP. It will do 16" full width at 4MPH - as fast as you can walk. I do 4passes on my .9mi drive in an hour with regas at 1/2 way. If you slow down it doesnt throw the snow as far. I bought a front mount for my BX 1500 and from the one time I used it I know Im underpowered. If we start getting some regular snow I will mount an auxiliary 5HP engine on it to aid the tractor PTO. From knowing how they should work I wont settle for an underpowered setup. Robs you of satisfaction.
larry

Snowblowing sure is a power hog. I would often bog down my TC18. Even with only 4" of snow, my B3030 was pulling hard clearing the sidewalk (where all the snow from the road was pilled up).

 

[canoetrpr]

Hmm.. I really ought to be cleaning off the snow after I'm done. Never thought about this. I really also ought to keep some shear bolts handy for both the blower and the bush hog.

Haven't sheared a bolt yet but it is bound to happen.

 

[smfcpacfp]

Your post talks about a belt. I'm guessing this is a lawn tractor set up?

How about if you have a 3pt RMSB? I would think it might be able to take more aggressive conditions.

Could you clarify this for me? Thanks

Bob

Are you saying you dont have enuf HP? I find when you bull the snow it throws much better. I have a lot of experience with a 2' walk behind with 8HP. It will do 16" full width at 4MPH - as fast as you can walk. I do 4passes on my .9mi drive in an hour with regas at 1/2 way. If you slow down it doesnt throw the snow as far. I bought a front mount for my BX 1500 and from the one time I used it I know Im underpowered. If we start getting some regular snow I will mount an auxiliary 5HP engine on it to aid the tractor PTO. From knowing how they should work I wont settle for an underpowered setup. Robs you of satisfaction.
larry

For the 29 years that I have lived in my current house (and only house) with the 400 foot driveway and a parking area, I had someone plow for me the first 4 years and I have been using belt driven snowblowers which fit on ATV 4 wheeler for the last 25. The picture below is my last one that I used thru last winter.

What people who don't face 20+ feet of snow each year don't realize is that snow removal is very hard on equipment. If I pushed the blower hard, the belts will slip and fail, and other parts will fail. The more cautious, patient you are, the fewer failures. Failures take time, cost money and leave your driveway impassible for some.

Now that I have a more powerful non belt driven machine (B3030), am I going to push it until I find its break point - no. I will err on the side of caution. That is all I was saying.

 

[ccsial]

Now that I have a more powerful non belt driven machine (B3030), am I going to push it until I find its break point - no. I will err on the side of caution. That is all I was saying.

Well, with that heated cab you probably want to make that blowing last for a while. Don't want the fun to end too soon.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Living and blowing snow in VT for 20 odd years has helped me create my little list:
- Before snow flies try to be sure your drive is clear from debris and marked w/ sticks or markers. Mark hazards too like low lying areas, culverts, stream beds etc.
- When starting out, always engage blower at low power in case something is frozen/jammed that you missed when putting it away after last use
- Keep the chute pointed down wind (if possible) and always away from people, cars, buildings etc. You'd be amazed how far you can blow a hockey puck through a picture window. Don't ask
- Keep rpm's up, move at steady pace and listen for motor bogging/straining. Slow down or take smaller bites if you have too.
- If you have a long drive like me, keep a bag/box w/ you w/ shear bolts, tools, flash light. Then you don't have to hump your butt back up to the house to get them when you break a bolt
- Only use proper grade bolts for shear bolts/pins. Would you rather replace shear bolts often or your blower?
- Keep up w/ your maintenance - the key to longevity
- Clean your gear after blowing. Any snow/water/ice left on it can and will freeze mechanicals in place. This leads to broken and/or malfunctioning equipment.
- Place blower on pallet or such so you don't end up frozen to the ground or leaving rusty marks on your garage floor
- And goes w/out saying, but never, ever reach or stick anything into a running blower. I won't even touch the auger unless the tractor is shut down never mind the PTO.
- Have fun doing it!!
j

 

[SPYDERLK]

What people who don't face 20+ feet of snow each year don't realize is that snow removal is very hard on equipment. If I pushed the blower hard, the belts will slip and fail, and other parts will fail. The more cautious, patient you are, the fewer failures. Failures take time, cost money and leave your driveway impassible for some.

Now that I have a more powerful non belt driven machine (B3030), am I going to push it until I find its break point - no. I will err on the side of caution. That is all I was saying.

I can see it with the belts. With direct or gear drive however, a small to midsize thrower not able to continuously move its full width and 80% depth of average wet snow at sedate walking speed is underdesigned. I use caution in order to avoid hitting things, but otherwise I will use the HP to make it do that up to the point of breaking something. If its some minor shortcoming I will upgrade it so that it will perform at a reasonable level- if major its not worth having. Hopefully, I will find this out while it is new and under warranty so that there is some leverage on the manufacturer to supply equipment suitable to its purpose. Doesnt pay to be too cautious. Itll cheat you out of too much life.
larry

 

[smfcpacfp]

I can see it with the belts. With direct or gear drive however, a small to midsize thrower not able to continuously move its full width and 80% depth of average wet snow at sedate walking speed is underdesigned. I use caution in order to avoid hitting things, but otherwise I will use the HP to make it do that up to the point of breaking something. If its some minor shortcoming I will upgrade it so that it will perform at a reasonable level- if major its not worth having. Hopefully, I will find this out while it is new and under warranty so that there is some leverage on the manufacturer to supply equipment suitable to its purpose. Doesnt pay to be too cautious. Itll cheat you out of too much life.
larry

Unlike you, I don't know just how far I can push it until it breaks, but I will be experimenting. Thus far we have had a maximium of 9" of snow on any given day, so no particular strain. Also I try to avoid warranty claims and the down time associated with them. Breakage here means you will have a partially cleared driveway which is a pain in the butt. Also I don't mind spending addtional time in this heated rig, it is quite enjoyable.

As a former professional motorcycle racer, few have accused me of being overly cautious. But as I get older, I would like to think I have gotten a bit smarter.

 

[GarthH]

Thanks for the great post - Im one of those newbies who is just starting out. I do not have a garage this year and live in the deep cold area. After reading your post it sounds like I should cover the blower with a tarp or something - I doubt if the ice will form on the blower except with the sun melting the snow during the day.

Our drive is about 1/2 mile of gravel - virtually no rocks.

How do you tackle the cleaning of the blower at end of a run - just a broom or do you actually get into the chute with a rag to dry it out?

Do you do anything the the chain drive on the blower and the chute? I bought some synthetic grease - how often would you grease the blower and the PTO's? I noticed that their are two nipples for each PTO connection the shaft and the coupler, one seems to be a challange to get at - are they both really important?

Thanks again

Newbie - Garth

 

[ccsial]

Thanks for the great post - Im one of those newbies who is just starting out. I do not have a garage this year and live in the deep cold area. After reading your post it sounds like I should cover the blower with a tarp or something - I doubt if the ice will form on the blower except with the sun melting the snow during the day.

Our drive is about 1/2 mile of gravel - virtually no rocks.

How do you tackle the cleaning of the blower at end of a run - just a broom or do you actually get into the chute with a rag to dry it out?

Do you do anything the the chain drive on the blower and the chute? I bought some synthetic grease - how often would you grease the blower and the PTO's? I noticed that their are two nipples for each PTO connection the shaft and the coupler, one seems to be a challange to get at - are they both really important?

Thanks again

Newbie - Garth

I got a big soft bristle brush. I think it is used for drywall. It works really well to clean the snow off. I take the heavy stuff off first with my hand after shutting down the tractor.

I grease mine once per year and I don't have any chains. Mine is all gear drive. I would look in the manual, if you have one, and follow their recommendations. The PTO zerks are a pain. I do mine once per year and have been doing that since 1981 with no problems. You may run up a lot more hours than I do though. I would probably do them every 50 hours since they are used in the cold WX.

I always reach down and spin the fan by hand for one rev to make sure there is no ice in there. Then I wiggle the chute to insure it isn't frozen. Then I start the tractor.

Since your doing a gravel drive be sure to have some spare shear pins. Gravel will break those if you get into it. If you have an unguarded chain driven auger be extra careful. Gravel can cause damage there.

 

[ragkar]

After you are done, it's important to clean the snow off the controls and linkages. If you don't, even though you may have it covered, the snow will melt a bit and then freeze. Then you can't move the controls.
It's very important to dress warmly perhaps with goggles and a ski mask because of blowing snow. Shoes with good traction are important too.
Check the wind. It will determine the tactics that you use.
I use to use marker flags and they were very helpful. But this year I have a plow on my tractor and two small snows later, every one of them are buried and broken.
It'll be interesting to determine this year which storms that I plow and which do I blow.

 

[smfcpacfp]

Thanks for the great post - Im one of those newbies who is just starting out. I do not have a garage this year and live in the deep cold area. After reading your post it sounds like I should cover the blower with a tarp or something - I doubt if the ice will form on the blower except with the sun melting the snow during the day.

Our drive is about 1/2 mile of gravel - virtually no rocks.

How do you tackle the cleaning of the blower at end of a run - just a broom or do you actually get into the chute with a rag to dry it out?

Do you do anything the the chain drive on the blower and the chute? I bought some synthetic grease - how often would you grease the blower and the PTO's? I noticed that their are two nipples for each PTO connection the shaft and the coupler, one seems to be a challange to get at - are they both really important?

Thanks again

Newbie - Garth

I am new to this blower, so I haven't greased it yet, but I will lube the chains as mentioned above.

As the guys above mentioned it is important to clean everything, that moves. I just use a broom, and my hands for the spots where the broom doesn't work. The key area is at the base of the round opening where the snow goes from the augers to the impeller, where the machine shoots the snow out. There is very little clearance between the impeller and this round cavity. This area gets warm. Even though there might be just a little snow in the bottom, and perhaps a little in the chute, it often melts and freezes on the bottom after you are done. This little bit of ice may cause the impeller to hang up. I generally see if the impeller will turn my hand before I crank up the machine, or as a minimum take a look to see if there is any ice there.

The other problem area, and you mentioned it is the base of the chute. It often freezes or gets little chunks of ice in there which impede its movement. I didn't grease that on my old machine, I used a thin Teflon bearing between the chute and its base. That did the trick in most cases. However, if the chute wasn't rotating smoothly, I heated it up with my kerosene salamander for a while before I started.

If I had to leave my rig outside, I would cover it up with a tarp as you suggested. However, I think I would leave it uncovered until the unit cooled down (unless it is snowing out). This way, you wouldn't trap the heat under the tarp and cause more melting. Since my new machine has an enclosed cab, I do wipe down the windshield with a towel and get it dry, because I don't want ice to form on the windshield and make the windshield wiper blade skips spots.

 

[Egon]

Hockey pucks would make good projectiles.

Ropes, hockey sticks, and other odds and ends like dog bones hidden under a layer of snow are also interesting items to find.

As stated point the chute in a harmless direction?? if possible or have it angled down and try and keep the blown areas clear of debris.

And another little item but quite important. Have the snow blower placed so that it is not blocked in by vehicles that cannot move due to snow being piled up on them!

 

[FullBucket]

Earlier post mentioned blowing snow downwind. Good common sense and if you don't you will soon be reminded by the snow in your face . Just thought I'd add, to blow the upwind side of the drive first and work to downwind side. Avoids building up the supply of snow that will soon blow back into your drive. Of course if you're looking for more seat time...