zd326p 60" deck lost its level on slopes

[bones66]

As mentioned, get the Deere deck tool.

Then its simple to measure off the blades and get the L-R / F-R setup.

One thing I had to do was install longer bolts in 2 of the adjusters because I ran out of travel if I still wanted to use the jam nuts.

Scooby, I just got a Deere Deck tool and plan on using it, but that part of the whole deck leveling process isn't my worse problem. I had sort of a mad method of measuring the blade tips height but the JD tool will simplify that process. I also had an issue with the bolt length. Talked with my dealer as I felt maybe somehow the wrong bolts had gotten put in my machine. He took one out of a new mower and measured it......but they were the same length as mine. I hate to say it as I really like my dealer but one of the mechanics said they no longer use the gauge to measure the blade tips they level across the deck with a level..........for some reason I got a bad feeling about that.. UGH!

 

[bones66]

it is very frustrating when it looks good it looks great but when these lines appear it drives me nuts. at present I am running the discharge side with front anti scalp wheel with 2 spacers below and opposite side with 1 spacer below. in addition I am running the opposite rear tire 7 psi lower. sounds nuts but my last cut looked great.

I guess I'm one of the ones that run what Kubota specs on the tire psi and check it often. I really don't worry too much about a the ride (an actually don't see much difference) I feel without doubt it's more stable with less sideways creep as I mowing a couple of my steeper spots. It just resist the lateral down hill forces much better with the tires fully aired up. Seems they bite as opposed to the tendency to roll a bit.
Man that 7psi is a lot of difference between sides......do you notice it in the handling of the mower ie when using the sticks to get power up to speed or one side tending to spin more than the other?

here is the thing that kills the cat next weekend it will look different without turning a bolt on the tractor. I can set the deck perfectly and a week later it will be different. something is broke, worn out or bent I just cant find it.
I mow at 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 front axel locked

workinallthetime, Just asking questions could the suns shadow be playing with you a bit? I know when I mow in say a N & S directions then look at it from the E it looks horrible but if I walk down and look back on it from the W it looks OK or vice versa depending on sun position. Those big old rear tires mash a lot of grass down too!
I have begun recently to run with the front axle in the locked position as the 6 areas I mow are not manicured lawns like in the pics. Locking the axle takes some pressure off the deck anti scalp wheels. Ride is a little rougher but .........

 

[workinallthetime]

I guess I'm one of the ones that run what Kubota specs on the tire psi and check it often. I really don't worry too much about a the ride (an actually don't see much difference) I feel without doubt it's more stable with less sideways creep as I mowing a couple of my steeper spots. It just resist the lateral down hill forces much better with the tires fully aired up. Seems they bite as opposed to the tendency to roll a bit.
Man that 7psi is a lot of difference between sides......do you notice it in the handling of the mower ie when using the sticks to get power up to speed or one side tending to spin more than the other?

no difference in ride or handling slopes or turns feel about the same



workinallthetime, Just asking questions could the suns shadow be playing with you a bit? I know when I mow in say a N & S directions then look at it from the E it looks horrible but if I walk down and look back on it from the W it looks OK or vice versa depending on sun position. Those big old rear tires mash a lot of grass down too!
I have begun recently to run with the front axle in the locked position as the 6 areas I mow are not manicured lawns like in the pics. Locking the axle takes some pressure off the deck anti scalp wheels. Ride is a little rougher but .........

the best time to see it is at night, when i am walking back from my nightly coyote hunt i shine my light across the area's to admire or struggle with my days mowing. i never mow in the same path / direction and this last cut i put my discharge over the cut and not into the cut. i also mow in straight lines to get that freshly plowed field look.
i will give a report after the next mow, right now im laying tons of gravel on new drive and my house and a few others were on the lucky few that were nailed by a micro-burst storm. i will have to put the old blades on this weekend due to the amount of small limbs in my yard plus mow around several large horizontal trees in the way. 99-100 degrees with 99% humidity gonna be a hot one!

 

[bones66]

Putting down tons of gravel in that heat, that's a thought one.

Well as I said I was going to put my John Deere tool to work and try again at getting my deck leveled. The closest I could get side to side was 2 3/4 on each side. I couldn't get the 3" that Kubota wants as I run out of adjustment (bolts bottomed out). I didn't get time to get the front to back adjustments. Now after giving it some thought, I'm thinking of getting longer bolts for all 4 adjustment points thus giving me room for any possible future wear. still haven't figured out the 4 wood blocks!

 

[workinallthetime]

4 wood blocks = if you have the level set at 3 and put the blocks under the scalp wheels they should not contact the blocks. i understand that there should be a 1/4 inch gap.

if you get a chance snap a pic of this magical JD deck level device as it must be delivered by the masters of the lawn mowers universe.

 

[Scooby074]

Scooby, I just got a Deere Deck tool and plan on using it, but that part of the whole deck leveling process isn't my worse problem. I had sort of a mad method of measuring the blade tips height but the JD tool will simplify that process. I also had an issue with the bolt length. Talked with my dealer as I felt maybe somehow the wrong bolts had gotten put in my machine. He took one out of a new mower and measured it......but they were the same length as mine. I hate to say it as I really like my dealer but one of the mechanics said they no longer use the gauge to measure the blade tips they level across the deck with a level..........for some reason I got a bad feeling about that.. UGH!

A level on the deck is a heck of a lot easier than laying on your belly to check the height, so I imagine that is why the gauge is not used any more (dealer mechs might also use a lift, so the machine isnt on the ground anyways, so the level is easier)... But the metal of the deck isnt what is important for the cut, the blades are.

Is your machine new? The deck adjust bolts can wear significantly. Mine had probably 3/16 wear in the ends of them. It was in a C shape so when Id turn the bolts to level the deck, the deck would go all over the place (rise and fall)... took me a while to figure that one out.

 

[bones66]

4 wood blocks = if you have the level set at 3 and put the blocks under the scalp wheels they should not contact the blocks. i understand that there should be a 1/4 inch gap.

I'll have to go read the wood block section again, either I completely misunderstood it or something here I thought it stated to put the blocks under the deck! I'll re-read and get back to you on this one!

if you get a chance snap a pic of this magical JD deck level device as it must be delivered by the masters of the lawn mowers universe.

I ordered mine from Amazon and it's a John Deere but only because it was a little cheaper than some of the others. It was 10.00 and some change but I think it was free shipping? I know that doesn't sound right a John Deere being cheaper.
There are some priced a little cheaper on this google Link but I suppose shipping will be extra. Hope the link works! https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=mower+deck+leveling+gauge

If I had it do do over again I would think seriously about buying the metal version. This gauge is actually larger than it appears in the pic and care has to be taken to make sure no flex is happening while performing the measuring. Not a big problem but just be aware of it. The gauge is nothing magical but on the left side of most decks it's very hard to get under the edge of the deck and measure accurately and this greatly simplifies the process.

 

[bones66]

A level on the deck is a heck of a lot easier than laying on your belly to check the height, so I imagine that is why the gauge is not used any more (dealer mechs might also use a lift, so the machine isnt on the ground anyways, so the level is easier)... But the metal of the deck isnt what is important for the cut, the blades are.

I think were saying the same thing, Mechanic also said that they found concrete wasn't level was one reason they quit using gauge. Concrete being not level would also have a negative effect using a level across the top of the deck. My thinking anyway.

Is your machine new? The deck adjust bolts can wear significantly. Mine had probably 3/16 wear in the ends of them. It was in a C shape so when Id turn the bolts to level the deck, the deck would go all over the place (rise and fall)... took me a while to figure that one out.

Ha! funny you should mention that. I discovered the same thing initially and that's one of the reasons I thought maybe the wrong bolts had been use on my mower. I think the best thing is to put some longer bolts in the thing, maybe a few mm longer to compensate for future wear. They are if I remember a 10.9 grade bolts. so I suppose I could jump to a 12.9 for a little harder bolt and hopefully less of that cupping wear we are having.

 

[Scooby074]

I used 8.8. Factory is 10.9 I think. 8.8 was all I could get when I needed them. Ideally I would have went 10.9. I wouldnt want something super hard in there because it would wear the pin out before the bolt. Im willing to bet the pin is more expensive and harder to get than the bolt

 

[bones66]

I used 8.8. Factory is 10.9 I think. 8.8 was all I could get when I needed them. Ideally I would have went 10.9. I wouldnt want something super hard in there because it would wear the pin out before the bolt. Im willing to bet the pin is more expensive and harder to get than the bolt

Yes, factory is 10.9. I suppose your thought about the harder bolt possibly wearing out the adjustment pins might be valid. I'll stick with the factory 10.9.