Your towing rigs and trailers

   / Your towing rigs and trailers #2,981  
I totally agree with you. Both designs work just fine.

I'm still new to the trailer world. I'm still waiting on the date for the driving license, that the IMT ( DMV overthere I believe) seems to take forever to proceed with the process, even though I delivered and paid the file in April.

I don't really have a % of tongue weight. Usually I measure the ball hitch to the ground when empty, and then measure it again when loaded to get some numbers to make it easier on the future loads and kinda look at it from a couple feet away to see how it sits. Anyway, if the rear of the truck didn't lift compared to when it was empty, then I'm good I guess? :D
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #2,982  
I totally agree with you. Both designs work just fine.

I'm still new to the trailer world. I'm still waiting on the date for the driving license, that the IMT ( DMV overthere I believe) seems to take forever to proceed with the process, even though I delivered and paid the file in April.

I don't really have a % of tongue weight. Usually I measure the ball hitch to the ground when empty, and then measure it again when loaded to get some numbers to make it easier on the future loads and kinda look at it from a couple feet away to see how it sits. Anyway, if the rear of the truck didn't lift compared to when it was empty, then I'm good I guess? :D

Joking I know :) , but it would be a good idea to get data from the trailer manufacturer as to what their recommended % is.

For ours here , I ball park 10%. One recent listing showed a recommended range in the (9 - 14)% area. Ex. - for a 5k# rated trailer here, you should have 500# tongue weight at full load.

With a long rear overhang on yours, the risk increases once you add heavy implements..... you can start running out of lateral adjustment room on the deck.

Weight-distributing bumper-pull hitches are widely available here (though, not as commonly used as they probably should be....)....... are they in use in your area ?

Rgds, D.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #2,983  
I found 2” straps for $9 each and stocked up. They were $7 when I was at the same place last year. I’m really thinking about putting some permanent mounted strap reels on my trailer like the semi flat beds have. The cost is about $30 each. IMG_4502.JPG
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #2,984  
Joking I know :) , but it would be a good idea to get data from the trailer manufacturer as to what their recommended % is.

For ours here , I ball park 10%. One recent listing showed a recommended range in the (9 - 14)% area. Ex. - for a 5k# rated trailer here, you should have 500# tongue weight at full load.

With a long rear overhang on yours, the risk increases once you add heavy implements..... you can start running out of lateral adjustment room on the deck.

Weight-distributing bumper-pull hitches are widely available here (though, not as commonly used as they probably should be....)....... are they in use in your area ?

Rgds, D.

Since you asked, I've been searching more about this subject.

So the tow-bars over here are quite different to what you use. I'll share a picture of my truck. There are also other styles of tow balls.

I'll give you the values for my case. Looking at the specs for the tow ball and trailer coupler, the manufacturer says each one allows for 150 kgs (330 lbs) of vertical load. The tow balls is rated for 7700 lbs of pulling weight and the trailer coupler is rated for 6000 lbs, which I think it's pure marketing, because the 6600 lbs coupler has the exact same dimensions of the 6000 lbs version but its more expensive.

Anyway, another thing that I believe you don't use over there, is that our trailers are equipped with inertia brake. So when you press the brake on the truck, the inertia of the loaded trailer will compress a cylinder that is part of the trailer coupler, which will actuate the brakes and therefore stopping both units. I have to say, it is quite effective. It can stop way to fast if you really want. The trailer is equipped with drum brakes in each wheel and it's fitted with a parking brake.

There is also a break away cable in the case something breaks and it will actuate the trailer brakes.

We don't have any weight-distributing bumper-pull hitches that I'm aware of. I think it would also be really useful overhere. They do, however, offer what they refer to as "Safety coupler" which is just a standard coupler with some friction material that sits on the ball to help avoiding that dangerous trailer sway.

Here is the picture of my tow bar. (Please ignore the mud :eek:)

SVgQPrMl.jpg
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #2,985  
I found 2 straps for $9 each and stocked up. They were $7 when I was at the same place last year. I知 really thinking about putting some permanent mounted strap reels on my trailer like the semi flat beds have. The cost is about $30 each. View attachment 564471

Nice deal. Commercial use here requires the cert tags on them, and are usually not that cheap, unless they fell off a truck ;).

Rgds, D.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #2,986  
Since you asked, I've been searching more about this subject.

So the tow-bars over here are quite different to what you use. I'll share a picture of my truck. There are also other styles of tow balls.

I'll give you the values for my case. Looking at the specs for the tow ball and trailer coupler, the manufacturer says each one allows for 150 kgs (330 lbs) of vertical load. The tow balls is rated for 7700 lbs of pulling weight and the trailer coupler is rated for 6000 lbs, which I think it's pure marketing, because the 6600 lbs coupler has the exact same dimensions of the 6000 lbs version but its more expensive.

Anyway, another thing that I believe you don't use over there, is that our trailers are equipped with inertia brake. So when you press the brake on the truck, the inertia of the loaded trailer will compress a cylinder that is part of the trailer coupler, which will actuate the brakes and therefore stopping both units. I have to say, it is quite effective. It can stop way to fast if you really want. The trailer is equipped with drum brakes in each wheel and it's fitted with a parking brake.

There is also a break away cable in the case something breaks and it will actuate the trailer brakes.

We don't have any weight-distributing bumper-pull hitches that I'm aware of. I think it would also be really useful overhere. They do, however, offer what they refer to as "Safety coupler" which is just a standard coupler with some friction material that sits on the ball to help avoiding that dangerous trailer sway.

Here is the picture of my tow bar. (Please ignore the mud :eek:)

So with a single connection point on your truck (?), you are over 5%, less than 10%.... roughly speaking.

Inertia (sometimes called surge) brakes are available here, just less common. Found on some boat trailers (less electrics to worry about submerging) or on Uhaul (small rental) utility trailers - nice in that application because it negates the need for an electric brake controller.

With bigger vehicles here (1/2 ton+ pickups) 5th wheel hitches are popular. WDistr. bumper pull hitches do a good job (when adjusted properly) of balancing the trailer load across all 4 wheels of the tow vehicle - I'm a little surprised that they are not in use over your way, as they are simple (basically just torsion bars) and pretty reliable.

Edit.... gotta remember the surge brakes..... that may complicate the WDistr. story.....

Rgds, D.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #2,987  
Yeah, a single connection point.

I wouldn't mind having electric brakes if that allowed me to have those weight distribution hitches. The inertia or surge brakes can be somewhat problematic when backing up to a slope, then it just starts braking and you have to overcome the brake action causing wear in the truck clutch and so on.

I would love to have one of your pickups with a big Cummins and a goose-neck trailer over here. The problem is that it could barely move on our roads since they are so narrow and tend to have sharp curves and gross weight would have be limited to 7700 lbs due to the way things work around here. Then again, could only tow a trailer up to 7700 lbs.

Actually, Ford started to sell the Ranger here in Europe. I quite like it. Maybe one day. :thumbsup:
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #2,988  
Yep... my Euro friends with trailers mostly have parking brakes too...

I think it is a great safety feature instead of scrambling for chock blocks... seen a trailer roll down an embankment... tires were blocks but the ground was soft and the blocks sank...

About the only small trailers I have seen with parking brakes are old military surplus as in very old that some of the guys in the jeep club have.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #2,989  
That is one thing it really amazes me. You guys don't have parking brakes on the trailer. Which is really dangerous when loading machinery or cars as it can lift the rear wheels of the truck.

I always apply the parking brake on the trailer and truck and also engage a gear on the truck. Sometimes in sketchy conditions, I put it in 4WD with the center diff locked.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #2,990  
I lived for a time in Austria... it was right after University...

Could definitely see some the benefit the way Europeans do some things... but, also was confounded at times compared to the US.


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