Your last generator Maintenance Run

   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,721  
That water seems to roll around like mercury in there. I guess even with generator vibration it should make its way into the sump. The good thing is that you could make the sump sturdy, out of pipe and plate, so it would never rust out.

My 3 foot long Rochester Manual Fuel gauge was picked up for me yesterday, so my tank build should start shortly. Now that I say that, I realize I don't know if I can make the tank shorter on account of that spiral type fuel gauge. The gauge could go into the sump, but not sure if I want it sitting in water.

gauge.jpg
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,722  
Tilt the bottom plate by 3/8", raise the screw in bung for the gauge 3/8"
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,723  
That water seems to roll around like mercury in there. I guess even with generator vibration it should make its way into the sump. The good thing is that you could make the sump sturdy, out of pipe and plate, so it would never rust out.

My 3 foot long Rochester Manual Fuel gauge was picked up for me yesterday, so my tank build should start shortly. Now that I say that, I realize I don't know if I can make the tank shorter on account of that spiral type fuel gauge. The gauge could go into the sump, but not sure if I want it sitting in water.

View attachment 605103

Thats a nice reliable looking gauge, we have a similar one in the Farmall 400
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run
  • Thread Starter
#2,724  
Good discussion on tank design.

Short of desert conditions, tank condensation is an issue for most everybody else.

Rgds, D.
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,725  
Your fuel pickup should be an inch off the bottom of the tank which will allow draining water off before it ever reaches the drop tube even with a flat bottom tank. I’d put a drain on the bottom plate though.

Also, cut the end of the drop tube at a sharp angle so it can’t easily pickup rust scale from the bottom of the tank when it inevitably forms.

The best drop tube is steel tubing, drill out a compression fitting so the tubing will pass all the way through to the bottom of the tank. Infinitely adjustable and no hidden joint under the scully to let air in. Put another compression fitting on the top to adapt to pipe thread or better yet run a one piece tube all the way to the engine.


I’ve seen at least a dozen let air in at this joint and techs change out an entire fuel system trying to fix hunting or hard starting. And note that I did not say copper tube.
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run
  • Thread Starter
#2,726  
We've had enough good points raised in the last page or 2..... probably worth a tank-build wiki right there :thumbsup:

Pain+Time can be a good teacher.... if you are paying attention :).

Plumbing....... as an older friend said years ago "I can make 3 plumbing connections, and end up with 4 leaks". He was actually excellent at fabbing pretty much anything, and a decent hand at plumbing, but that comment sums up how hard it can be to do well.

Suction-side...... too bad it is often hard to pressure-test a suction-line after installation...... great points CM about the wisdom of a KISS approach....... every connection adds a potential failure point.

Rgds, D.
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,727  
Pressure testing is one of the biggest misses testing a suction line. It should be tested with vacuum.

Pressure testing will not find one of the most common sources of air...

Gate valves should not be used on the supply line as they are designed to seal against pressure, not vacuum. If you look at the packing around the valve stem it is vee shaped and provides a tighter seal the more pressure in the valve. Vacuum has the opposite effect and actually unseats the packing. This is also an extremely common source of air in diesel fuel supplies and hard to identify.

Only ball valves should be used in the supply and no valves should be installed on the return.
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,728  
I resurrected a neglected sail boat and it had a tank made of Monel and fiber glassed in...

The reason for Monel is because it was never coming out.

Boat would motor fine in calm water but not the case when it got choppy.

The solution was using a portable fuel pump as a vacuum to clean out the bottom of the tank... I was amazed at all the junk in a 30+ year old sailboat tank moored in SF Bay...

After I spent a morning flushing and sucking... end of problem.

At first I had put on a super filter set up... but it didn't solve the problem of the pickup getting clogged.
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run
  • Thread Starter
#2,729  
Pressure testing is one of the biggest misses testing a suction line. It should be tested with vacuum.

Pressure testing will not find one of the most common sources of air...

Gate valves should not be used on the supply line as they are designed to seal against pressure, not vacuum. If you look at the packing around the valve stem it is vee shaped and provides a tighter seal the more pressure in the valve. Vacuum has the opposite effect and actually unseats the packing. This is also an extremely common source of air in diesel fuel supplies and hard to identify.

Only ball valves should be used in the supply and no valves should be installed on the return.

After I typed that, I was thinking "pressure is easier to come by (for most backyard wrenches) than vacuum, but this is really a vac deal". I can see that vac pump + meter is the way to go...... pressure + soapy water is easier/cheaper for me on other things that I don't do for a living, or often.

Devil in The Details..... a lot of guys skate along ignoring application specs, but your point about gate valves is a good example of the major headaches you can create doing that..... I learned that lesson years ago, ignoring an installation requirement on a Bosch electrical part, that didn't initially make any sense to me.

Rgds, D.
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run
  • Thread Starter
#2,730  
I resurrected a neglected sail boat and it had a tank made of Monel and fiber glassed in...

The reason for Monel is because it was never coming out.

Boat would motor fine in calm water but not the case when it got choppy.

The solution was using a portable fuel pump as a vacuum to clean out the bottom of the tank... I was amazed at all the junk in a 30+ year old sailboat tank moored in SF Bay...

After I spent a morning flushing and sucking... end of problem.

At first I had put on a super filter set up... but it didn't solve the problem of the pickup getting clogged.

I knew the name Monel, but had to look up the composition. A few traces of other things, but it's mostly nickel and copper - like my favourite brake line material NiCopp.

On-water, with less than a full tank much of the time, and probably a low rate of consumption...... I could see that getting messy after not that many years.

I think that's part of why diesel is not such a good fit for many N. American consumers..... needs a bit more of a maintenance program than gasoline.

Boat application like that...... regular prophylactic use of biocide might have helped, esp. now with ULSD.

Rgds, D.
 

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