Your last generator Maintenance Run

[Chilliwack Murray]

When you pull the second level code let me know what it is.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Thanks. I think it was 32, which is low battery. Maybe the connections were poor to the terminals on the unit. It was a good, charged battery with very heavy, short jumper cables.

The remote plug did not have anything connected and I did not know if that was an issue. I found out the stop/start circuit is momentary, so it would not be an issue. It was getting dark, so I put the unit inside, and was going to go inside and go through the manual. WAY, too much safety stuff in that manual.

 

[Chilliwack Murray]

When you pull the second level code let me know what it is.

The model and spec numbers would be good also.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Thanks

It's a 7.5 HDKAT-41934R (Spec R)

It has me flustered. And smelling like DIESEL!

It was showing low battery voltage, so I hooked it up to a charger. NOTHING! then started showing HIGH voltage! Of course, I had to go inside and get on my computer to find that out. I wish somone had a list that fit on one sheet of the codes so you don't have to find the 8 pages in the very large PDF manual.

So, took battery off charger and I am BACK to code 32. Low cranking speed fault. In the little bit that I played with it, the engine never tried to start. I only heard the fuel pump.

Quite a learning curve working on this thing.

Looking further for the remedial action on that fault, it says to use INPOWER. To issue a command to over-ride and engage the starter relay. I hope that's not some program you need on a lap top, or other special tool. YUP, That's EXACTLY what it is! So what now?

 

[3930dave]

Thanks

It's a 7.5 HDKAT-41934R (Spec R)

It has me flustered. And smelling like DIESEL!

It was showing low battery voltage, so I hooked it up to a charger. NOTHING! then started showing HIGH voltage! Of course, I had to go inside and get on my computer to find that out. I wish somone had a list that fit on one sheet of the codes so you don't have to find the 8 pages in the very large PDF manual.

So, took battery off charger and I am BACK to code 32. Low cranking speed fault. In the little bit that I played with it, the engine never tried to start. I only heard the fuel pump.

Quite a learning curve working on this thing.

Looking further for the remedial action on that fault, it says to use INPOWER. To issue a command to over-ride and engage the starter relay. I hope that's not some program you need on a lap top, or other special tool. YUP, That's EXACTLY what it is! So what now?

Do you have a way to load test that battery separated from the generator ?

Auto-parts store, if nothing else...... most stores can test automotive batteries. An industrial battery supplier should be able to load test most any battery. A decent test-station will fully charge the battery, then load test it.

Rgds, D.



Rgds, D.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I made certain assumptions that my battery was good. Having said that, I discovered that the clamp had become detached from the cable on the Trickle Charger that it had been on.

I do have a load tester. It's digital, but I think I would prefer an old school one. As it was, the generator seemed happy with the battery voltage after I took it off charge from a big dumb floor type charger.

It seems that slow cranking can also be cuased by a blown fuse. There are three DC fuses. It would be too simple to have the computer report the condition of those fuses. Just stupid!

Anyway, I was just out there checking the fuses and they are good. Got an E-Mail ALert (First Time) from Ontario Hydro warning of power outages, so warmed up the other conventional 7.5 Onan.

My next step is to remove the panels and see if I see starter solenoid power when I try and start it. If I do, I will apply power to the starter solenoid and see if I can get the thing to turn over.

 

[3930dave]

I made certain assumptions that my battery was good. Having said that, I discovered that the clamp had become detached from the cable on the Trickle Charger that it had been on.

My next step is to remove the panels and see if I see starter solenoid power when I try and start it. If I do, I will apply power to the starter solenoid and see if I can get the thing to turn over.

Haven't been there yet, but I could have been born in Missouri......

I prefer to isolate components when serious testing is needed. You may well have some other fault, but I've seen some not-that-old vehicles exhibit funky problems that turned out to be nothing more than a degraded battery, that wasn't going into hard failure mode.

Rgds, D.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I used that floor type charger on the 35 amp setting. It was not pulling much current according to the charger gauge. What I found a bit alarming is that the over voltage code on the generator claims to have a setpoint of 19 volts! I should have stuck my fluke on it.

 

[3930dave]

I used that floor type charger on the 35 amp setting. It was not pulling much current according to the charger gauge. What I found a bit alarming is that the over voltage code on the generator claims to have a setpoint of 19 volts! I should have stuck my fluke on it.

A few "electrics" in play....... if you have something like an almost open-circult battery cell, you may end up with wonky voltage levels driving it with a hefty charger.

Rgds, D.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I will check the battery. Because, yes, something does not add up. Isn't that always the fun of troubleshooting? You always have more than one thing going on. Finding that your meter lead or clip lead has broken is an old time favourite of mine.

I'm thinking the battery is probably important for this unit as I'm guessing the battery must provide instant power to the inverter when the set sees a load increase and the engine can't get up to speed immediately.