Your last generator Maintenance Run

   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,871  
Thanks.:thumbsup: Where do you go to learn stuff like that?

That controller has plenty of inputs and outputs. Very nice! Great if you have pre oilers, idle (warm up) and running speed options and output switching if it's not on an ATS.
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,872  
Also replaced a lot crimped joint with soldered and heat shrink.

i have been told and have seen some, where in high vibration area's a crimp is superior to a soldered joint, as the wire can break at the solder point due to it being brittle. there are no solder joints in airplanes because of this. and with the cheap hydraulic crimpers now, you can actually cold weld, and have a superior connection to solder. this coming from someone who soldered everything
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,873  
I can believe that the right crimp tool and barrels could be superior, but these were the plastic insulated hand crimped, and barrel and wire gauge were often not matched. I used a temp controlled gun, rosin core solder with 3% silver content, my joints shine like a new silver dollar
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,874  
I solder and heat shrink everything too, and have always been dismayed the way the solder wicks a ways up the wire. If there is so much vibration, that might cause a failure of the hardened copper wire, I hope the screw terminal or quick connect is up to that task. Quick connects. Undo the Females a few times and most are garbage! Cheap screw terminals. Tighten them so you are sure they won't loosen and risk stripping them. They never have lock washers!

Since stuff is o hard to get and expensive up here, I have hundreds of times, removed the insulation off crimp on connectors using a utility knife since it just melts anyways, crimped and soldered the wire, and then heat shrinked it.
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,875  
If your solder wicks too far you are probably using too big of a soldering gun too many watts. I wipe tip on wet sponge then place some solder on the convex flat and touch the puddle too the wire then add more solder at joint of the iron and wire, then I'm able move the tip along the joint while adding solder essentially pulling the solder to the heat of the iron, I can control how far and how much solder, never leave a gob of solder. When done the solder has flowed like water but you still see every strand and wire doesn't get hot enough to cause insulation retraction or bubbling or flow away from the joint. The right size gun will not melt the whole joint at once. Most times I find people using a gun that is always on and that gets way to hot, burning the solder, and delivering too much heat so you can't control the joint. A good pen type soldering station with changeable tips and temp control between 600 and 800. 42 watts

Weller WTCPT - Solder Station, Analog, 12 V, 6 W
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,876  
I have several WTCP stations. Used that model of iron since the 70s! I also use a Weller gun when I get lazy or work with bigger wire.

I overdo everything and probably just apply too much heat and solder, then shaking off the excess! Really no excuse, I have probably made millions of solder joints! GLAD I bought a dozen or so rolls of lead solder at Dayton years ago that should last me til I die.

Good old Weller, Station. Old style. I remember my first boss took that silicone cord and wrapped it around the HOT iron, to see my reaction. QUALITY! That thing is 40 years old!

DSC04785.JPG
 
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   / Your last generator Maintenance Run
  • Thread Starter
#2,877  
Thanks.:thumbsup: Where do you go to learn stuff like that?
.

NP. Legacy data from being an olde tyme DOS geek..... from long before it meant Denial Of Service....... a lot of codes I'd have to look up now (lack of use), but those I sitll use often......valuable ancient DNA.

Interesting solder discussion. I know where I could improve...... less solder. Shotgun lazy technique, from rapid cheap prototyping, field repairs........ Watch a certified production tech on a bench, always a full bottle of liquid flux handy...... nothing I ever had in the field. Production-wise, good crimping technique is easier to teach than advanced solder skills.

You can learn a lot from extreme environments, but (ground based applications) I'll take quality connectors and crimping over bad soldering anytime. AND, vice versa.... as covered, good technique mitigates much.

Airborne has vibration levels rarely seen on ground. A satellite shaker-table would have a car in pieces quickly.

Some wire joiners are pre-loaded with silicone. Automotive - Scotchlock T taps are convenient - I've had good luck sealing them entirely with quality silicone.

More than one way to skin a feline.

Rgds, D.
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,878  
I particularly liked the tip change system on the Weller. No ugly screw in tip.

Funny how making solder connections all your life can make you a better welder too. I can't see worth crap welding and that's my problem, but I know and appreciate a nice weld when I see one.
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,879  
I haven't kept up with aircraft, but in the seventies every multipin connector in an A4 was soldered, nothing was crimped.
In the industrial instrumentation field most field connections are crimped.
I still do both depending on what I'm doing.
 
   / Your last generator Maintenance Run #2,880  
I wish it was possible to make OEM style crimp connections. Too many variables, with connectors, dies and wire size and type.
 

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