YM336D Restoration thread

[Domush]

I've been rebuilding my 1983-ish YM336D over the past month (when I bought it) and I have learned a great deal about it, mainly because it had so many things wrong :confused2:

I'll be sure to get a good collection of photos together for this project. I know I love pics, and no good restore thread is complete (or even begun) without a massive collection of before and after shots.

Before shots:

Here's what she looked like when I brought her home. I only wish I had thought to park it out of my driveway.. a whole month without access to my driveway :ashamed:

Wheel wells are rusted through

A few things are, umm, missing. Notice the lack of air filter assembly and exhaust. Not much left of the headlamps, either. The dashboard is also pretty devoid of switches and lamps. At least it has the ignition switch! sheesh!

Exhaust bolts were frozen. One snapped and another looked as though it was ripped out at one point.

Dashboard has seen better (and more switch-filled) days.

Misc bolt heads and metal bits inside the final drive housing

I'm guessing this secondary hydraulic filter isn't Yanmar Brown on purpose.

Here is the source of the extra bolt heads. Photo is the final drive gear on the rear axle (both sides have the same snapped bolts)

Well, that is the before photo section.

Read on for the restoration!

--------------------------------------------

Here is the list of things finished so far:

- Changed the engine oil
- Changed the trans fluid
- Changed the front axle oil
- Replaced front axle tower oil seals
- Cleaned the injectors
- Repaired (re-flattened) the fuel pump shims (they had dents in them, causing them to be slightly thicker than designed)
- Cleaned the valve cover assembly (looks like water got in there)
- Built a new air cleaner housing (oem assembly was missing most parts). Now accepts a high flow K+N (washable) filter. No pre-filter for now, but will add one if needed.
- Replaced sheet metal on rear fenders (was rusted through)
- Fabricated new 3pt linkages (left and upper) - Luckily OEM right adjustable was only bent and easily fixed
- Fabricated anti-sway chains
- Replaced all fuel hoses and some water hoses
- Replaced fuel bowl gasket
- Installed aftermarket fuel filter
- Replaced missing in-bowl fuel filter and spring (now have two filters total)
- Replaced seat with cushioned high back (priority #1 right there )
- Replaced fuel cap with generic cap (OEM was damaged, will fix it at a later date)
- Cleaned air intake manifold (had crud in it.. had no air filter at all when purchased )
- Replaced whatever is to the right of and above the fuel pump (cheap gasket maker was there.. replaced with hand cut cork gaskets)
- Replaced battery with marine battery (I had one hanging around)
- Attempted to repaint the body, but failed miserably. Will reattempt when finished fixing mechanical issues (only pics can show this awful failure)
- Replaced muffler (made a custom exhaust, so it ejects below and behind me, like a car)
- Replaced spin-on hydraulic filter
- Cleaned and refurbed secondary hydraulic filter
- Tightened and water sealed ignition switch
- Replaced broken final drive gear bolts on both sides of transmission (all 6 were snapped off.. thank you screw extractors :thumbsup
- Cleaned metal debris (left from above issue) from transmission case
- Cleaned and adjusted brakes and drums
- Replaced o-ring and spring clip for PTO shaft
- Replaced fan belt
- Reconnected some disconnected wires (now the tach and hour meter work)
- Replaced decompression cable (was missing)
- Adjusted clutch pedal and inertia brake
- Adjusted left and right brakes
- Repaired slow return valve (top of valve was missing)
- Replaced coolant reservoir
- Replaced many cotter pins, installing spacer washers where needed
- Adjusted throttle lever (would not stay put)
- Sanded and lubed throttle pedal (would not depress)
- Greased all grease points
- Resurfaced left axle tower shaft to prevent oil seal leakage (was pitted to the point new oil seals would not stop leakage) - Used fiberglass, btw. TBD how well it will hold up. For now I just needed it to stop leaking.
- Replaced coolant
- Replaced PTO lift piston seals
- Removed surface rust from inside PTO case cover
- Replaced oil temp sender unit
- Reconnected speedometer cable

I think that does it for now.

I did manage to start it up this afternoon (1st time since unloading after purchase). It has an awful metal clunking when I try to drive it, either forward or backward. It also hesitates for a moment upon every wheel revolution. This was not happening when I unloaded from the trailer upon purchase. I really have little idea what is causing this, seeing as I have messed with the transmission gears very little. All this work and still no usable tractor .

Luckily the engine runs great and the PTO lift now works (didn't when purchased) and tracking down this gear issue should be the last item on the to-do list beyond cosmetic things like lights, horn, paint and dash gauges for oil/amp/temp.

I was so very nervous starting it up for the first time today. I have never, NEVER gone so deep into anything this size before.. and had it live to use again . With this new clunking noise, my track record of goose-egg still stands

I'm wondering if the clunk may be caused by the 4wd lever, as I suspect it is not working, seeing as it moves back and forth so easily (to the point gravity can move it). Although this was the case when I bought it, it may be in between selections, now. I have to fix it either way, so it might as well be next.

There was also a drive gear which was pretty badly torn up inside the transmission case. It appears the final drive gear, wobbling about from the lack of bolts holding it in place, ground off the outside of a part which had a spring clip holding it in place, although the clip was now barely holding on, as the metal was ground so far back, the groove was nearly shaved off. Without a parts machine, I feel I'm out of luck on that, and may need to weld a bit onto it and grind a new groove for the spring clip, assuming it needs the repair at all. It may work just fine forever.. or it could be the cause of the clunking, now that the final drive gear is back where it belongs and not grinding against this area (and possibly holding it in place).

If the provided photos just aren't enough eye candy for you, here is a link to my Picasa album with all of my tractor photos in it.

 

[Domush]

Can anyone tell me how to check the fluids in this? Do I screw in the dipsticks or rest them in the hole for level checks? Oil and transmission, please.

Also, for anyone with a 336D.. how easily should the 4WD lever move? Mine seems to be free flowing with no catches or resistance at all. I'm guessing this is bad, but have nothing to compare it to. Anyone?

Thanks for all of the previous help I've received on here. I wouldn't be nearly as brave working on this thing without the help of many people in this forum. This is both my first diesel and my first tractor, so I'm diving in head first, here.

 

[Car Doc]

I seem to think the check is just sitting in the hole but either in or out will work.

My 3810D 4wd lever is pretty easy also I cant say it doesn't have a catch when it engages the pto gear in the trany because I think it does?

The clunk may be the front driveshaft has the ball bearings out of place at one end or the other but that is only a wild guess.

 

[winston1]

The operator manual for my 2002d says check with dip stick not screwed in.

 

[Domush]

Thanks fellas!

I managed to find a dealer "pre-delivery" section in my service manual which goes over pretty much everything I'd guess the owners manual has in it, which is killer.

It also says to check fluids with dipstick resting in hole. It also mentions the 4WD shifter needing 24lbs of force to actuate, recommending a rebuild if less than 9lbs. Mine needs no effort at all.

Once the sun gets behind the trees I'll be draining the hydraulic fluid back out and removing the 4WD shift assembly (not sure its real name). Although I'm quite relieved it started and runs, I'm pretty bummed about this clunking as I really busted *** the past few days to finish this project up. I would say one step at a time, but I've already done at least 50 steps fixing this thing so far . I just want to use it now.

Waiting for it to cool off will give me a chance to get some photos, I guess. Just wait until you see the failed paint job

 

[Car Doc]

I know gravity wont operate my 4wd lever its got more drag than that fwtw.

I am having some what I call extra noise from my final drive so if you end tearing yours down I will be watching how it all goes parts wise etc. I am almost positive I have a bad pinion bearing in the rear end dont know if thats a common problem area on this chassis or not time will tell but the noise you describe could be from that area also. good luck btw you will get it all fixed it will be a good machine I am sure.

 

[grainger12002]

The 4wd lever is not really eashy to get in or out ,and from what I am told the repair is not that bad either. My 336 is in 4wd and doesnt want to come out so I will be watching to see what you discover once you have the lever housing off-

From CT

 

[kenmac]

my 3110 is easy to go in & out of gear. sometimes it comes out too easy.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Man you got my attention just with the thread title. :laughing: That really sucks that the 4wd doesn't work, the 4wd lever on my 169D is definitely fine, it takes a bit of strength to engage or disengage it. Some times I have to get it in the right position too, let off my brake and roll a few inches to relieve the stress between the gears. Some of the things you have done though, i have as well on my little Yanmar. I can say, once you get your 336D fully operational you will love it. :thumbsup:

 

[Domush]

Here are some after photos so far..

It may look worse, but it is far closer to being a working machine right now.

I completely botched the paint job. I'll fix it later on. I was simply being impatient and skipping the primer step. Once I finished up the mechanical work I'll get back on painting it properly.

Shampoo bottle used to replace the old and crusty coolant overflow

Secondary fuel filter added (as well as a primary one, which was missing)

Fabricated a downward angled muffler using the original muffler elbow. The exhaust now runs behind me, so I don't choke to death.

Fabricated a new left link out of a new top link. The OEM was missing.

Anti-sway chains were also missing

Replaced missing spring clip on PTO shaft, as well as new o-ring. You can also see the gasket sealant used where I had to remove both sides of the axle in order to replace those axle shaft bolts. I had never used easy outs prior to this, and boy do I love them!

New comfy seat. The OEM was so rusted it was 1/2 missing.

Top lever slow return valve was missing, so I fabricated and welded a new one.

Made new cork gaskets for the removable plates. Also re-flattened the fuel pump shims, and they were somehow bent and leaking.

Replaced all of the front wheel tower oil seals. They leaked pretty badly and this tower has about a cup or two of water in it. The tower arms were quite pitted, which meant I had to devise a way to make the oil seals.. seal. I added a layer of fiberglass atop the OEM pivot in order to get a more even pivot and, therefore, fix the leaky seal problem. Only time will tell how long this holds up, but for now it works as intended.

Replaced all of the fuel hoses and a few of the coolant ones.

Fabricated a new air filter housing, as the OEM was missing 1/2 the parts. This one fits a standard K+N high flow, washable filter.

The PTO lift was not working when I bought it, so I removed this head cover and replaced the piston seals with new ones. So far so good. The lift works and even overnight, does not fall an inch.

What color it was and what color I want it to be :thumbsup:

I added new sheetmetal to the fender in order to fill in the void left by the rust rot.

That's it for now. I'll be cracking open the 4WD case tonight. I'll try to take more in-progress pics from now on, but no promises

 

[Johndeere3720]

Wow, it is really looking good. :thumbsup: Nice job! :thumbsup:

 

[284 International]

Fabricated a new air filter housing, as the OEM was missing 1/2 the parts. This one fits a standard K+N high flow, washable filter.

You've got a great writeup and wonderful documentation of your process. Thanks for posting!

I don't mean this as a criticism, (and don't want to start an air filter argument thread) but I would suggest keeping an eye out for dust in the intake manifold while using that K&N filter. I don't trust the K&Ns on things that see heavy service in dust, like tractors or the off-road race cars I used to build. They pass too many contaminants in my experience.

There is a company called Outerwears that makes a cover for the filters that keeps sand and grit from even reaching the filter, though it only filters down to 0.005", or about 127 microns, much larger than the size of particles (5 to 25 microns) that cause most engine wear. (Sourced from summary of SAE paper # 881825) However, they do block things from the size of fine sand on up very well. It won't do anything for the small particles, but will keep everything much cleaner and extend your service intervals.

I would strongly suggest replacing the K&N with some sort of paper filter, then run an Outerwears type cover to keep the larger contaminants away from the filter element.

People don't like the paper filters because they "plug up too fast" in comparison to the K&N types, and don't flow as much air. While there may be exceptions, I'd rather have better filtration in a tractor than higher air flow; generally the paper filters provide improved filtration. Some very good quality paper filters will out-flow as well as out-filter the oiled foam and oiled gauze types.

I don't want to sound preachy or like I'm advocating one brand or another; I'm not trying to bring religion into this...:laughing: From the pictures, your tractor may have run for years without any filter at all. Your setup is vastly better than that.

Again, congratulations on the progress you're making. I like some of your ingenious repairs to make your tractor serviceable again. Let us know how the fiberglass treatment works for sealing pitted surfaces.

 

[winston1]

You have come a long ways. Thanks for the progress report. I can't tell from your overflow bottle whether the line goes to the bottom or not. For it to work properly it should. :thumbsup:

 

[Domush]

I would suggest keeping an eye out for dust in the intake manifold while using that K&N filter.

Yeah, I'm not thrilled with the air filter setup, either, but it was enough to get me going. I'm still tryi brainstorm on a way to keep the heavy dust out, which will likely mean fully enclosing that filter and adding a pre-filter later on. Like you said, it is much better than nothing, but could still use improvement for sure.

You have come a long ways. Thanks for the progress report. I can't tell from your overflow bottle whether the line goes to the bottom or not. For it to work properly it should. :thumbsup:

Yep, it goes to the bottom. What I wasn't sure about is if the bottle should be air tight or have an air hole. Any thoughts? At the moment it is air tight.

 

[winston1]

I believe the little cap on the original bottle has a little weep hole. I'm going to go look at mine in a few minutes, if I'm wrong I'll come back and change this.

 

[clemsonfor]

I believe the little cap on the original bottle has a little weep hole. I'm going to go look at mine in a few minutes, if I'm wrong I'll come back and change this.

My cap is not air tight, as the tractor vibrates it sloshes out.

 

[284 International]

I wasn't trying to be critical, and I don't think it's the end of the world to have a K&N. I would just be on the lookout for something better, as it seems you are. You're doing a great job getting things up and running.:thumbsup:

I think the overflow bottle will work better if it is vented; mine are.

 

[Domush]

Well, today I drained the transmission fluid once again and removed the 4WD housing. In doing so, I found some interesting bits inside. Sure enough, the 4WD engagement arm was not connected to anything. As a bonus, it appears a (maybe "the") clunking sound was coming from within this housing.

For those who are considering removing this housing, be aware, removing the drive shaft lets loose two sets of ball bearings, one of each end of the shaft. It is best to have a bin at each end to catch them when they fall.

Also, the front shaft housing slides over the rear housing in order to expose the shaft for removal. This normally should go easily, except mine had a dent in it, which meant it would no longer fit over the small shaft housing. I ended up having to cut a slit into the dent and pry it out with a screwdriver. If I had a welder handy, I would likely have welded a bolt to it and used a slide hammer to pull the dent out. I don't have power in my garage yet (just built it), so that wasn't an option for me.

Getting the engagement arm off was a small nightmare. First, the roll pin was frozen in there, and drilling it out proved fruitless, as the pin is apparently hardened steel. One drill bit down, I managed to finally drive the pin out with an old hex bit ground to be round. After removing the roll pin, I found the shaft itself was rusted to the handle, so round two commenced with me placing the handle in the vise and hammering the crap out of the pivot shaft. I immediately sanded the shaft smooth to avoid a similar scenario upon assembly.

The arm inside the housing, which normally moves the clutch dog has been bent pretty badly and is now getting jammed into the transmission gear. As a result, half of the knob is has been ground off.

Luckily, the clutch dog tumbling around in there only partially damaged a single tooth. It appears it will live to drive another day.

The clutch dog was a bit worse for wear from rumbling around in the housing for who knows who long. I'm seriously lucky it never jammed itself between two meshing gears, as that would have been catastrophic.

So, all in all, not too bad. In order to get the shaft pivot out I need to remove the gears in the housing, which requires destroying another oil seal, so that will be on order shortly. The pivot arm and the clutch dog will easily be repaired by adding some weld to them and grinding them back to proper dimensions. I may order a new clutch dog if it is cheap enough.

As it was, the tractor was impossible to shift into 4WD, even though the lever would move back and forth, simulating the shift. Which goes to show how shady the guy I bought it from was, as he claimed he tested the 4WD engagement earlier that day. Uh huh..

All in all, about what I expected. I'm happy to see the gear clunking sound may have been this section, as I really don't want to have to dig into the main transmission or remove the axle yet again.

 

[winston1]

Nice report. Looks like you got your fingernails dirty.

 

[rmully]

You need to be commended for your bravery! Great job and documentation. You will have a good tractor once you solve all the problems. Thanks for posting !!