YM2210 Questions

[Smoody]

Well, I just got this machine and its just to different then my YM2001.

Here are a few questions if anyone can help.

1.Is it normal to see the exhaust fumes while running the tractor? reason I ask on my YM2001 I don't see anything ever coming from the exhaust, on the YM2210 I can see a "faint" smoke or fumes?? almost clear but if you look at a certain angle you can see it, does that have to do with a 2cyl vs. the 3 cyl? Does a 3 cyl run "cleaner" than a 2 cyl?

2. I don't see a Decompression lever, is there one? I do see a rod under the left side of the dash that you can "flip" left or right, I'm just use to a "pully" type lever. so?

3. If the temp light doesn't work by chance is there other signs to watch for in case it were to run hot?

4. The overflow bottle for the radiator is slam full, the "full" line is about in the middle of the bottle, The guy I purchased from has the bottle full of coolant above the full line almost to the fill cap of the bottle, should I empty down to the FULL line?

5. In My YM2001 I have 70 Hours on my oil change and the oil still looks golden and new. The Oil in the YM2210 is Jet Black and the guy had the oil changed last fall. Again does a 2 cyl not run as clean on the 3 cyl tractors?

I had a JD 755 that the oil would also turn jet black within a few days after a oil change.

 

[Ken Cunningham]

1 (faint smoke) you should be fine there

2 look under the hood and see where that connects to

3 I would fix this as soon as you can

4 I would take some out so the water from the radiator will have some room to overflow.

5 from my experience its perfectly normal for the oil to be black, my jd1070 was like that, but i would change it.

 

[Smoody]

Thanks for the input Ken!

 

[careyo63]

Smoody on #2 turn the shaft to the left that shoud turn the shaft that comes out of the back of the valve cover to the left in hence holding the valves open so the engine will not start.Your oil light should be on until the pressure comes up.When the oil light goes out then release the handle and it shoud start.I open my throtle to about 1500rpm and then go down.

Carey

 

[Smoody]

Thanks Carey, my Oil light doesn't light up when I turn the ignition to the on position, so either the bulb is out or the sender is bad. I will check that after work. On my YM2210, I pull the throttle lever back until I hear a "click" was told that the starting position.

For others who are looking at the YM2210 for an option, this thing is really strong, it pulls a plow easier then my YM2001. More torque, the 2 cyl really sounds "mean" compared to the 3 cyl (more like a loud Lawn Mower). The "yanmar knock" is sweet!

Thanks again all!

 

[normde2001]

Thanks Carey, my Oil light doesn't light up when I turn the ignition to the on position, so either the bulb is out or the sender is bad. I will check that after work. On my YM2210, I pull the throttle lever back until I hear a "click" was told that the starting position.

For others who are looking at the YM2210 for an option, this thing is really strong, it pulls a plow easier then my YM2001. More torque, the 2 cyl really sounds "mean" compared to the 3 cyl (more like a loud Lawn Mower). The "yanmar knock" is sweet!

Thanks again all!

Don't overlook a loose/broken wire or bad connection, (volt/ohm meter needed). Also, that "click" is the idle position, starting position is full throttle.

 

[Smoody]

I tested the idiot lights and they all work, well one was burned out but I changed the bulbs around to test the sockets/wiring. My question now is about the temp sender, the light works but how do I know the sender works? Also can these bulbs be purchased at an auto parts store?

Norm, I am not disputing you in any way, but I do have to ask why full throttle is the starting position? My manuals warns to let engine warm at 1500RPM for 5 minutes before putting it to work. I assume you mean start it then idle it back down immediately?

 

[normde2001]

"I assume you mean start it then idle it back down immediately?"

That's correct, straight out of the YM240 OEM operators manual.

 

[Ken Cunningham]

If its easy to get to and get out, then you could use a heat gun (being carefull of course not to melt the wires). Or you could boil some water and dunk it in it. If the sender only has one wire going to it your gonna have to hook at wire to it for ground.


This is all allittle crazy, but at least you will know if its working or not. Like ive said before, im not a mechanic, so there may be a easier way.

 

[California]

straight out of the YM240 OEM operators manual.

Yes. The manual says full throttle to start then 1500 rpm idle for 5 minutes before use. I never do either, though. Starting anything at full throttle just doesn't feel right. I set the throttle about halfway and don't let rpms exceed 1500 for a minute. Then idle down and start my day.

Here's the cold-weather portion of the manual. (full forward, step 4, is full throttle on the US-version Yanmars).

 

[careyo63]

California has a sound file that is pretty much how I COLD Start also.Come to think of it and Remember now it's what I took the advice from.Been working great for me with no problems Thanks Again CAL.

 

[normde2001]

Yes. The manual says full throttle to start then 1500 rpm idle for 5 minutes before use. I never do either, though. Starting anything at full throttle just doesn't feel right. I set the throttle about halfway and don't let rpms exceed 1500 for a minute. Then idle down and start my day.

Here's the cold-weather portion of the manual. (full forward, step 4, is full throttle on the US-version Yanmars).

Actually there's a problem with that write-up at #6. They have you starting with the decompression engaged. You need to turn the key to "start", with clutch engaged, then with engine spinning, push in the decompression lever to start engine.

 

[California]

And that lever rotates rather than 'pulls'. They obviously copied this paragraph from something else and still didn't get it right. The decompression lever is down by your knee where you can't see it, and following this text literally is going to lead to more confusion.

The warm weather cold start is also confusingly written, and I see both errors repeated in the YM186 manual. But those are the only bad examples I can think of. The US documentation is generally excellent.

 

[edjones72]

I replaced my temperature light with a gauge. It was a very easy install. The hardest part was drilling a hole in the dash.
Like a previous poster pointed out, I always hold the decompression lever on my 2210 until the oil light does out. When released, it starts right up. You get some added smoke at first but that's from the excess diesel that was pumped in while cranking the engine decompressed.
Another simple upgrade was that I put a radioshack purchased electric beeper in parallel with the oil light. It beeps when the key is on then goes off with the light when oil pressure comes up. It also tells me when I leave the key on. Another reason I did this was that in bright sunlight the warning lights are not that visible.

 

[SpaldingTractors]

Ed
Did you ever find you a tiller? Steve

 

[edjones72]

Hello Steve. My 2210 I got from you 2 years ago is still going strong. I just got off of it from mowing and washed it off.
I did find a Yanmar RS1400 tiller about 6 months ago. What a great gardening tool. It works well also at smoothing out rough, dirt driveways.

Thanks,
Eric

 

[Eagle Dude]

#1-Smoke
I too live in SC and own a 2210 for about 3 years now. Mine has a faintwhisk of smoke and even more visable if the enginge gets loaded down.

#2-Compression Release
The lever is the compression release. Give a little throttle, twist the release and after oil pressure comes up flip the release back and she fires right up. Sometimes a couple of tries in the winter. Idle as low as it goes and use the compression release to shut her off.

#3-Idot Lights
Check the bulb, Test the sendier , but make sure it works. This tractor replaced a kobota that I warped the head on because it overheated on a hot summer day and the light wasn't working. I have installed gauges for Oil, Water, and Battery with the Oil and Water gauge in parellel with the idiot lights. Horrable Freight has some small cheap gauges that work well.

#4-Overflow
I would take it down to the full make and keep an eye on it.

#5-Oil
I change the oil and filter every 50 hours, cheap insurance.

 

[MJPetersen]

Idle as low as it goes and use the compression release to shut her off.

Nope--DO NOT use the comp release to shut down. Closing the throttle all the way should shut her down, there may be an additional little button that will allow the throttle to go the last little bit and that shuts it down.

Mike

 

[Eagle Dude]

Nope--DO NOT use the comp release to shut down. Closing the throttle all the way should shut her down, there may be an additional little button that will allow the throttle to go the last little bit and that shuts it down.

Mike

My 2210 has no such button. While closing the throttle all the way down does occasionaly shut it off, the majority of the time it will keep on running at what sounds like 30 RPM's. You emphasize "DO NOT use the comp..." any reason why. There's only two ways to shut a diesel off, that I know of. Either stop the fuel entering the cylinder completely or stop the compression process that causes the combustion.

 

[Ken Cunningham]

The only thing i can think of would be fuel flooding the cylinders and washing the walls down then running past and diluting the oil. But i may have read something in a post about shutting down a particular tractor and thats the way you were supposed to do it.