YM1700 shutdown

[sirgknight]

Been a long time since I visited here. I have owned an early model (mid-1970's) YM1700 for about 10 years and have had no serious problems with it at all. Today as I was using my scrape blade the engine started slowing very sluggishly and actually shut down on its own. It's almost like it "locked up". After sitting for a couple of minutes I turned the key to try to restart it and the engine would not turn over at all. After waiting another 5 or six minutes I turned the key and she started just as pretty as you please. No smoking, no knocking....only a smooth running engine. The oil level is full; the radiator is full. I am completely baffled as to what happened to the engine. Can someone shed a little light on this?

 

[careyo63]

Bad Fuel something in the intake would be a good reason almost clogged it up or choked it. If you haven't done it in awhile I think it's time to replace the filters. Fuel and Air. At least you can rule that out if it happens again. Drain and replace the fuel while your at it.

 

[Soundguy]

Hmm. The no turnover after stall I disconcerting.

Check bat with a specific gravity or load tester, not a vom. Check connections. If bat n cables fine.. I'd be watching for heat sieze signs...

 

[sirgknight]

Thank you for the feedback. I replaced my filters for the winter so I'm fairly certain that they are in good shape and last summer I removed my fuel tank, drained and cleaned it thoroughly so the fuel should be OK also. My battery did show weakness from sitting up over the winter, but it cranked the tractor fairly easily. Probably need to get it checked. As far as I know the tractor has never run hot. I have a set of gauges and I also still have the little idiot light hooked up. I will say this....my gauge has always given a temp readout that I would consider a little on the high side....around 210 to 220 degrees. What other signs should I look for?

 

[prs]

A running diesel with mechanical fuel pump does not stall or suffer if the battery is disconnected or weak. Your initial report is consistent with air in fuel line or water in fuel. But the failure to restart is a puzzler. If the starter got into a big strain trying to turn the engine you may have heard a brief electrical squeal as the amps shot up or some other sign of the strain. If so, lots of water fluid blocked combustion chamber, but why would it clear with time unless engine was hot enough to steam if off? So maybe two problems. Air in fuel purged, but also a bad battery terminal connection or loose main ground at frame causing intermittent start.

prs

 

[winston1]

I doubt the problem but does your set of gauges include an oil pressure gauge? Showing good oil pressure?

 

[sirgknight]

I doubt the problem but does your set of gauges include an oil pressure gauge? Showing good oil pressure?

Yes. My gauges show temp, pressure and voltage....all working properly.

 

[normde2001]

I'm with Soundguy on heat seizure, although it appears you have been running hot for several years, 210-220 is entirely too hot. Not likely that you had 2 problems, air/fuel and electrical that cleared up after sitting a few minutes.

 

[Soundguy]

I'm with Soundguy on heat seizure, although it appears you have been running hot for several years, 210-220 is entirely too hot. Not likely that you had 2 problems, air/fuel and electrical that cleared up after sitting a few minutes.

Agreed, I'm not seeing a loss of fuel, and not a bad bat either, if it started after cooling. Hate to say it but a gradual stall followed by a siezed engine, that auto corrected when cool points to bad heat issues, possibly lower end lube issues even..

 

[careyo63]

I'm thinking Heat also. The gauge is reading 210-220 and if it's a factory Temp sender the light should be coming on at 220. Time to get a Thermometer out and start checking the temp in the overflow Esp. when you are seeing 210 on the gauge. The gauge could wrong and not even 200. And that's why the lights not coming on. But IMHO. My guess your going to see over 220 with a Thermometer. And if it was mine and it got that hot on the gauge I"d would Rev. it up and would be removing the Rad. cap and checking it. I bet it's over 220... No light AKA Dummy Light. not very accurate.

 

[California]

Aside from engine heat as most likely, a restriction in the hydraulic system could bog down the engine. Was this related to raising the rear implement?

 

[sirgknight]

I'm pretty certain that I have eliminated the battery, the cables and the fuel. It stands to reason that I encountered some kind of heat seizure problem, albeit for just an instant. Since this has never happened before, I'm guessing that these little diesel engines will not tolerate much of an overheat and will go into shutdown. For a long time I have been toying with putting the water pump kit on it. Guess I'll go ahead and make that changeover. It can't hurt anything for sure.

 

[Soundguy]

I would not characterize that machine as overly or extra heat sensitive.

I hope it didn't spin a bearing..

 

[sirgknight]

I parked the tractor under the shelter yesterday to let it cool off. This morning I re-checked everything obvious and found nothing unusual. The tractor cranked immediately and seems to be running normally. No smoke or unusual noise, just a nice running engine. Hopefully no internal damage. I've been delaying doing some upgrades so I think I'll go ahead and replace the original radiator and put a water pump kit on it. I really depend on this jewel during the summer months.

 

[winston1]

My old 2002D always run a tad hotter than I liked in hot summer weather. I initially removed the radiator, cleaned it with muriatic acid and could tell some difference. Still wasn't satisfied so I ordered and installed a new radiator. Old radiator had 3 rows of tubes, new radiator had 2 rows of tubes. Although nip and tuck the old radiator kept it cooler that the new. I ended up selling the new radiator for about half or less than I gave for it.

Have you flushed your cooling system good? Are you confident in your gauges? Infrared Thermometer - Non-contact, Digital Thermometer

 

[sirgknight]

Last summer when I removed the fuel tank and cleaned it thoroughly I also completely flushed the radiator and engine. I ran water through it for over an hour. When the water started coming out it was a little murky but ended up pure clean water. I have always used a coolant mixture of distilled water and 30% pure antifreeze, not the 50/50 blend. Never had the radiator cleaned and it's over 30 years old. It has probably lost some of its proficiency. Changing just the radiator may not help a lot, but I'm thinking that putting a new radiator on along with a water pump system should improve the cooling system a lot. Am I wrong?

 

[winston1]

Sure can't say your wrong. My opinion would be the water pump would be most help. Does your radiator have two or three rows of tubes?

Hoye says don't use over a 25% solution with ther thermosyphon systems.

 

[normde2001]

Did you run water opposite from the direction that it normally flows, (backflush)?

 

[sirgknight]

Did you run water opposite from the direction that it normally flows, (backflush)?

Yes, I ran the hose from the intake and outlet sides. The radiator has two tubes.

 

[normde2001]

Did you do it like this, to include the block?

Default Re: Purple Ice
Quote Originally Posted by sirgknight
Norm, what steps do you recommend I take to check out your theory? How would I check the block?
First, make sure the outside of your radiator is not plugged with mowing chaff, (blow through it from the engine side with water or air). then back-flush the system by disconnecting the upper rad hose at the rad, run a garden hose into the upper hose and seal with rags. Turn on the water and see what comes out the upper connector, flush til clean. (You might want to unhook the battery and cover electricals with plastic). If still running hot, time for rad shop test and rod job.