YM1610D Brakes

[remurden]

I have a brake problem on my 1610d. I have no brakes. Both pedals go all the way to the floor. there is no pressure on the pedals. It looks like the linkage is adjusted all the way. What is my next step in determining why i have no brakes and can they be fixed and how? Any help would be appreciated. A visual of the brakes would be nice. I printed a few attachments from the site that referenced brakes and read through some posts to get some kind of idea of what it may be.
Thanks,
Richard

 

[kenmac]

I would take a look at the shoes. Look at this diagram of brakes Yanmar Tractor brake job

 

[lens12]

Take the brake cover off. If you have never had brakes there may not be any shoes. I've come across this before when importing tractors from Japan.

 

[remurden]

Thanks for the information. I looked at the right side turned the adjustment all the way in and out with no result in pedal pressure. I looked at the left side and started to adjust the linkage. I felt the pedal tighten and had brakes on the left side. Took it for a spin and it felt good drove down into a ditch and had plenty of stopping power. I will look at the right side tomorrow and report back.
Thanks,
Richard

 

[Markey]

Thanks for the information. I looked at the right side turned the adjustment all the way in and out with no result in pedal pressure. I looked at the left side and started to adjust the linkage. I felt the pedal tighten and had brakes on the left side. Took it for a spin and it felt good drove down into a ditch and had plenty of stopping power. I will look at the right side tomorrow and report back.
Thanks,
Richard

If the operating cam lever does not move when you adjust the turnbuckle, then, it is binding to the brake housing. Disconnect cotter pin from operating cam lever, pull out steel pin from turnbuckle assembly, drop off turnbuckle assembly. If cam lever is stuck, that is your problem. Try spraying with PB Blaster or similar penetrating solution where lever enters brake housing. Give it time to soak-in. Wiggle lever back and forth. If still stuck, you will have to disassemble brake housing with shoes, and clean up. If, on the other hand, the operating cam lever does move, then your brakes are worn on the right side, and you can rotate the anchor pin 90 degrees in order to extend brake shoe life. It is an easy job. Good luck.

 

[remurden]

I removed the cover and fluid leaked out. The shoes are very dirty, including the drum. I will have to clean them up to get a better look at them. There is a lot of sludge in the bottom of the brake housing. I also noticed a drain plug. Do i have "wet" brakes? How do i go about maintaining these, if the are wet brakes? Do i have a seal leaking? I also noticed the brake cover gasket is totally shot. Please advise. I will try to take some pictures tomorrow night and upload them.
Thanks,
Richard

 

[mark777]

Remurden,

Yes...the seal is leaking and no, you do not have wet brakes.

I would certainly order and replace the seal and the shoes as well. The shoes, even if they have enough friction material, are well soaked with hydraulic fluid and most probably will never clean up. The shoes are a bit pricey but consider that the ones on your tractor are original and a new set will go for another 25 years.

 

[LMTC]

The brake shoes aren't cheap, but nowhere near what OEM shoes were. As I recall they were over $50 per shoe when we last were able to order from YA several years ago. Now we have shoes under $35 and we do even better on a 4 shoe order.

 

[kenmac]

I removed the cover and fluid leaked out. The shoes are very dirty, including the drum. I will have to clean them up to get a better look at them. There is a lot of sludge in the bottom of the brake housing. I also noticed a drain plug. Do i have "wet" brakes? How do i go about maintaining these, if the are wet brakes? Do i have a seal leaking? I also noticed the brake cover gasket is totally shot. Please advise. I will try to take some pictures tomorrow night and upload them.
Thanks,
Richard

Are you talking about water in the shoe area or hyd. fluid in that area. I have seen alot of water that had gotten traped in that area (from years of use), but will run out when the cover is removed

 

[mark777]

The brake shoes aren't cheap, but nowhere near what OEM shoes were. As I recall they were over $50 per shoe when we last were able to order from YA several years ago. Now we have shoes under $35 and we do even better on a 4 shoe order.

Wow, that is a terrific deal...wished they were that inexpensive when it seemed like I was ordering sets every couple of weeks . Are they new or rebuilt? Actually I wouldn't care as it use to be either new or used!

Mark

 

[remurden]

No water just hydraulic fluid. Where is the leak coming from and what do i have to replace and how difficult is it? What about the drum? Do i need to get it relined or turned? What is best to clean the parts off with?
Thanks,
Richard

 

[LMTC]

Wow, that is a terrific deal...wished they were that inexpensive when it seemed like I was ordering sets every couple of weeks . Are they new or rebuilt? Actually I wouldn't care as it use to be either new or used!

Mark

New, aftermarket.

 

[kenmac]

No water just hydraulic fluid. Where is the leak coming from and what do i have to replace and how difficult is it? What about the drum? Do i need to get it relined or turned? What is best to clean the parts off with?
Thanks,
Richard

Clean everything up with mineral spirits. Just clean the drum up real good . Replace the shoes. I can't advise on the seals

 

[ritchieb]

Welcome to TBN. I also have a 1610D that had a leak as you described. Easy job to replace the brake stub axle seal. The seal just sets behind the brake drum and I pried my old one out with a screwdriver. One word of advice, try to find a 3 jaw puller to get the drum off. A two jaw puller will not work due to the 3 holes in the drum. My drum was not easy to get off and would strongly advise the puller, it will save you some headaches Order the collar as well as the seal, (seal frictions against the collar) mine had a new seal but not a collar due to it being out of stock. One other thing, make sure the drain hole in the bottom of the brake housing casting is open to drain water and/or hydraulic fluid should it happen again. I am no tractor mechanic but it took just about an hour at my pace. Be safe, block your tires and use jack stands for your tractor support, got to have all the Yanmar owners around for a long, long, time LMTC suppled my seal and collar.

 

[Markey]

If the hydraulic fluid leaks are not too bad, you can leave seals alone. To replace seals, you have to remove drum and drain hydraulic fluid. Round rubber seal is located behind drum. After you decide what you want to do with the shoes, (replace or extend life by turning anchor pin), make sure to sand drum. This can be done by hand sanding without removing drum. If you want to remove drum, sometimes, the large nut that secures drum, can be very stubborn. Also, sometimes, drum is difficult to remove from spline after nut is removed. Do final clean-up on drums with brake cleaner. That will remove all oily residue. Drums do not have to be perfectly smooth like on a car. Remember, brakes are hardly used, and when used, speed in relatively very slow. Good luck.

 

[bobandmolly]

what is the anchor pin?

 

[California]

what is the anchor pin?

In the HoyeTractor diagram that Kenmac referenced, its item 10.

...diagram of brakes Yanmar Tractor brake job

The lower end of each shoe moves outward when you push the brake pedal, but the upper end of the shoe simply rests on the anchor pin.

The pin is rectangular. You turn it a quarter turn to widen the distance between the upper ends of the shoes, to start on the second 50% of their useful life. (This assumes the linings are simply worn - not contaminated.)

When I used to do this on my first cars, 49 Chev etc, I would rotate the most worn end of the shoe toward the anchor. This is because, obviously, it won't wear as fast there. I don't know if Yanmar suggests this.