YM1301D 3pt Upper Link Mount

gbirky · Sep 25, 2002

I have finished mounting the lower lift arms and mounting hardware for the 3pt on my YM1301D. All that is left is the upper link mount.

I haven't figured out the best way to put the upper link mount on the tractor. I attached a photo of the rear of the tractor where you can see two lower holes that I plan to use just above the 2pt bracket for the tiller. The only other accessable threaded holes are above those I just meantioned, and they are in the 3pt hydraulic housing. This housing appears to be aluminum, and I am reluctant to use them for fear of the possibility of breaking the aluminum with heavy use. Furthermore, the link will attach in this area directly between the upper lift arms.

Anyone out there have suggestions? Anyone with a 1301 or 1401 (they are virtually identical in the rear) with a 3pt hitch and some photos of the upper link mount? Any dealers willing to part with some good knowledge of where and how to mount the upper link bracket?

jimstractors · Sep 25, 2002

Greg,
We have 3 pts on all our 1510d & 1401d tractors. If I get home in time I will shoot some pics of the mount. Its double eyelets welded below the hook. Housing is steel.
Jim
Jims Tractors.

mbrule · Sep 25, 2002

Hi Greg,

Attached is a picture of the rear of my YM135, I bet yours is not significanly different. I don't know if it will help or not. Mine looks like it picks up 6 holes, I can look at it tonight to be sure. I believe it is original Yanmar from the factory.

I see you found a belly mower, what did you get? You had emailed me a while back with interest in the one that I have, but I didn't want to sell it.

Matt Brule (mbrule@rcn.com)

mbrule · Sep 25, 2002

OOPS! Here is the picture.

Matt

gbirky · Sep 25, 2002

Matt,
Thanks for the photo. It looks like yours is bolted to the housing on top of the tranny. That's how I did my 1110D, but the housing was steel. On my 1301D its aluminum. I'm just worried about its strength.

The belly mower is an original YMM-45, just like yours. Its a little small under my 1301D, but it works very nicely. I bought it complete with the electric clutch from a Yanmar dealer about 120 miles north of where I live. Check out the photos on my <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/gregbirkymustang/>my website</A>. Here's one of the pics you'll see there.

gbirky · Sep 25, 2002

Jim,
Thanks, I look forward to seeing some of the pics. I have no idea what you mean by "double eyelets welded below the hook". What hook? If the housing is steel, then its no problem. It should be more than strong enough.

I'm after the top link bracket mounting. I've already got the lower lift arms on.

gbirky · Sep 25, 2002

Matt,
I see from your photo that the top link bracket is mounted to the posts that are used for the 2pt tiller linkage on the gray market tractors like my 1301. Thats not really an option for me unless I want to convert the tiller to 3pt - and thats more work than I'm interested in right now.

YanmarFever · Sep 25, 2002

Hi Matt
I like those lights you have on the rear
You can mow in the dark!!

That top link bkt. looks like you put a lot of time into it.

Also that 3 point hitch looks wonderful too !!

You really fixed that machine up nice.
Ernie

mbrule · Sep 25, 2002

Ernie,

Thanks,
The work lights are mounted where the factory directionals where and are wired to a switch on the dash. The red light is mounted where the factory work light would be and is also on a switch on the dash.

The top link bracket is factory. Your right the 3 point hitch is wonderful. Thanks! I think you sold it to me! (Assuming you're the tractor Ernie I think you are).

Attached is a photo of the entire hitch.

Matt

Matt

mbrule · Sep 25, 2002

Greg,

Congrats on the mower deck, it is real good shape compared to the one I have.

Attached is one more picture showing my weight box on my 3 point.

Matt

gbirky · Sep 25, 2002

Yeah,
I really lucked out on this deck. It was very little used. I also got a YMM-60, 5' belly mower which was original equipment for a YM195 and YM240. It had never even been mounted on a tractor.

EFC · Sep 25, 2002

we use the top four threaded holes and it is plenty strong, we mount a solid half inch plate and weld our brackets to that. I have a backhoe hanging form mine at home that I never take off and it shows no sign of fatigue. All of the P model Shibaura’s have the same exact hole pattern and come with the top bracket bolted on the four holes.

jimstractors · Sep 26, 2002

Greg,
Here are some pics of the mount. Sounds similar to what Buck fabricates.
Jim

jimstractors · Sep 26, 2002

Here is another...

gbirky · Sep 26, 2002

Jim,
Thanks, but those photos don't look like they are of a 1301 or 1401. It looks like you just welded some almost square pieces to an existing plate that goes forward to the seat. It looks like it has the end plate already on with the slot for the chain used to lock the tiller in the up position.

Based on Buck's reply, I'll just plan to use the 6 threaded holes on the back of the tractor. Two are down in the main transmission casing, the top 4 are in the 3pt hydraulic housing that is bolted to the top of the transmission. Buck believes that to be strong enough - and I trust his judgment.

Thanks Buck and Jim.

jimstractors · Sep 26, 2002

Greg,
These pics are of a 1401d. All the 1041d & 1510d's I have sold have this configuration. We put 3 pts on all 1401's & 1510's. I'd like to see pics of Buck's config. Improvements are always welcome.
Jim

gbirky · Sep 26, 2002

Jim,
Then it appears that the 1401 and 1301 are NOT the same. It you look at the photo of the back of my 1301D that I attached to my original post, you'll see that it looks different from the photo you attached. I don't have the plate with the hook for the chain.

EFC · Sep 26, 2002

There are many different combinations on the same model. I do the top link bracket both ways depending on the design. One welded to the seat bracket and one bolted to the housing. The most important thing for the bolted design is to use an oxidation inhibitor (copper or the like) agent on the threads so you can remove them down the road and keep the bolts tight so the plate can’t move. There was a post a while back about that very thing happening because the bolts had come loose and the plate could gain leverage on the bolts and tear them loose. If I can remember in the daylight to take a picture I will post it

mbrule · Sep 26, 2002

Greg,

Checked out my Ym135 last night, the top link plate picks up four holes on the housing and the housing is aluminum.

I believe it is a factory setup and it works fine. Hope this helps!

Matt

gbirky · Oct 1, 2002

I discovered much to my surprise that the transmission/transaxle housing is also aluminum. So even the two lower holes are in aluminum. I think I'll go the extra yard and make a plate to go under the seat and attach to the top edge of the bracket. That plate will catch 4 more bolts, and should make it plenty strong.